The old Beijing oil and salt store is actually an oil and grain grocery store, but it has formed a fixed routine since the Qing Dynasty. Usually, the oil and salt shop is a joint venture with the rice noodle village (the latter has a mill and a mill for grain processing). The oil and salt shop itself is divided into three parts: oil cabinets, grocery containers, and fresh vegetable beds. There is a sauce garden in the backyard of the large store, where you can brew your own sauce, vinegar, and pickles. The small shops are purchased from the oil room and the Kyoto sauce garden.
Old Beijingers live at home, as the saying goes: "Seven things to open the door, firewood, rice, oil, salt, sauce, vinegar and tea." Except for "firewood" and "tea", the rest are basically summarized in the oil and salt shop. The goods it deals in are necessary for people's lives, so it serves the widest range of objects, so it is said in the old days: "There is no oil and salt shop that is not open." "
Oil tank
The streets of Jiujing must have the so-called "five flavor gods" to be worthy of the "downtown area". The so-called "five flavors" are five kinds of fragrances, which can make people feel refreshed when they smell it. Among them, the oil fragrance of the oil and salt shop occupies the first fragrance. The old Beijingers recognize sesame oil the most, and it is called "sesame oil white noodles are serious things". Unlike Europeans and Americans, who don't eat sesame oil at all. Sesame oil stir-fry in a pot or in cold dishes, more than high-grade monosodium glutamate. The sesame oil must be a small grinding sesame oil to be a pure high-end product. The back cabinet of the oil and salt shop is often equipped with a small grinder, which buys sesame seeds from the countryside and grinds them themselves, which not only produces high-grade sesame oil, but also produces high-quality sesame paste. Back then, really good sesame oil could smell two miles away, even if the blind went to the street to do goods, they would also smell and touch it.
The back cabinet of the large oil and salt shop brews the so-called "Fu sauce" and "vinegar" by itself, that is, the sauce is made in the summer and the vinegar is made on the 39th day of the lunar month. It is said that the sauce garden in the old age, on the sixth day of the sixth month of the old calendar, should store water as much as possible and use it to brew "Fu sauce", which is said to be used to brew no ether and no mold. Whether this statement and practice is scientific or not will not be mentioned for the time being, but it can be affirmed that the industry took its own business seriously and seriously.
A large number of pickles are processed in the back cabinet sauce garden. It can be roughly divided into two categories: pickles and water (salt) pickles. The former is mostly high-end products, and the latter is an ordinary side dish for the common people. The good pickles of old Beijing pay attention to the bright color, rich sauce flavor, crisp and tender fragrance, and moderate sweetness and saltiness (but mainly salty, not as sweet as in the south), in order to achieve the purpose of relieving greasy meals. Good pickles can become a treasure on the table, and it is not inferior to the cold dishes (cold meat) on the banquet. There are at least a dozen varieties of pickles, and as many as dozens of varieties, the famous one being dark pickles. For example:
Pickled melon is made with old melon or melon as the outer coat, and fresh and tender fruits and vegetables such as apricots, peanut kernels, tender lentils, and cucumbers on the inside. When eating, people can not only taste the fragrance of the melon, but also enjoy the sweetness of the nuts.
Pickled gourd old Beijingers often have to fry shredded pickled gourd with shredded meat to accompany their meals during the Chinese New Year, which is an indispensable side dish at the Spring Festival family banquet. It is juxtaposed with the moist "bean paste" and "black bean sauce gluten", and the clear "mustard moss duner" and "spicy dishes", which can be used as a "pressing table", which can quite set off the traditional festive atmosphere. It is said that to make pickles, you must first salt the eight ripe fresh melons or old melons to a certain temperature, and then squeeze out the water and salt. Only 19 catties of 100 catties of melons remained, and then they were soaked in a sauce jar for 40 days to make it absorb enough sauce, up to 38 catties. Therefore, it is a higher-priced pickle.
Ten coriander Finely chop the sauce blue and add shredded ginger, which is called "ten coriander". Old Beijingers eat pancake rolls (cooked meat dishes such as elbow flowers and tripe), sometimes with sweet noodle sauce and horn onions, but some use coriander and green leeks as the backing. In addition, Beijingers also pay attention to eating coriander.
Eight Treasure Vegetables Cut the tomato into plum-shaped slices, soaked with diced cucumbers, eggplant cubes, lentil cubes, nectar, silver sprouts, apricots, peanuts, and lotus roots. It can be made with sweet noodle sauce and made with yellow sauce.
Braised shrimp side dish This is the only high-grade product in pickles that has meat added to it. The raw material is a single gherkin with seedlings, pickled with marinated shrimp, and the taste is extremely beautiful.
Sweet garlic is also a high-end product in the sauce garden, and it is a side dish used to accompany a meal when eating shabu mutton. It is said that purple-skinned garlic from three days before the summer solstice must be used to make sweet garlic, and it must be marinated in a jar within two days. If it is not in season, the garlic taste is insufficient, and if it expires for one day, the garlic will be old and firewood, so it is necessary to control the time well.
In addition, there are pickled persimmon peppers, pickled cabbage, pickled dragon mustard, sauced tofu, etc., all of which are high-quality products.
All of these pickles can be packed in a special oil basket with red and green tickets as holiday gifts for family and friends.
Common pickles, such as pickled mustard gnocchi, miso radish, and small miso radish, are all pickles used in families to accompany meals.
In summer, eat five-spice dried mustard gnocchi, also known as "lightning pimple", which is resistant to storage, does not deteriorate in hot weather, and chews like beef tendon.
Pickled mustard gnocchi is cooked with "five spices", which is called "five-spice cooked gnocchi", which is the "natal food" of the elderly with bad teeth, and some elderly people buy it and mix it with sesame sauce to become a special flavor side dish.
Ordinary oil and salt shops are civilian grocery stores, so the pickles they operate are popular and cheap, and most of them are low-grade goods. For example:
Spring cabbage shreds are three or four different colors of pickled radish, especially "Weiqing" green radish, cut into thin strips, customers do not have to change the knife to process, so the name "lazy wife dish".
Water pimple Mustard pimple pickled with salt alone is called "water pimple". The poor can't afford to eat fresh vegetables in winter, so they cut the lumps into shreds, fry them with a small amount of shredded meat, and finally add shredded green onions, which is the best way to eat. Just use salted green radish, called large pickled radish, cut into strips and braised with pepper oil or chili oil can be used for rice.
Pickled snow mushroom Pickled with snow mushroom or mustard tassels, it is economical and is also a "cold dish" for the poor. Dip the snow in the snow and fry it with a small amount of minced meat, put some pot of fried fish, and add some green bean mouths (green beans that have just sprouted a little), which is indeed a salty and flavorful "poor solution".
Spiced dried radish This is homemade by the store before the winter. Use green radish, with a small amount of carrots, cut into strips, put on the mat to dry, knead with peppercorns, cumin, and salt for sale in winter. After people buy it, they cut it into small pieces and add sesame oil and vinegar to accompany their meals.
Salted carrots are now rare. Back then, old Beijingers cut it into thin strips and used it as a "noodle yard" when eating lo noodles and sesame sauce noodles. It is paired with green radish tassels, green bean mouths, tender green cucumber shreds, and milky white bean sprouts to form an artistic effect of colorful and foiling each other. At the same time, it also complements other light and refreshing "noodles". In addition, salted carrot shreds are also an indispensable condiment for selling grilled cakes and cold noodles.
The oil tank was very good at catering to the needs of the poor citizens at that time. At that time, those who pulled foreign carts and worked as small laborers and coolies went to the noodle shop to eat, and they had to take twelve taels or a pound of "white split" (boiled cut noodles), and then, take a small bowl to the oil and salt shop, and buy a large piece of sesame oil, soy sauce, vinegar mixed with three mixed oils, commonly known as "Sanhe oil", and poured it into the noodles. Others brought a small bowl, and asked for two large pieces of sesame paste and a large piece of leek flowers on the counter, and asked for some chili paste. Three kinds of seasonings are stirred, which is called "three handsome", also known as "butterfly vegetables", which can be seasoned and used as a side dish. Poor people often steam a pot of cornmeal and boil a pot of millet porridge, and spend two or three big copper to deal with it. Old Beijing customs: "Poor and gluttonous, spicy and salty." "The oil and salt shop is a shop that specializes in "spicy and salty". Some poor people don't have vegetables to eat in the summer, so they buy a large piece of yellow sauce and ask for two small chili peppers, and come back and chop and stir it. Otherwise, just buy a large pickled pepper, wear it with thread when you can't eat it, hang it under the eaves, and fry it with vegetable oil in winter, and its seeds are like the fragrance of sesame seeds.
In addition to high-end seafood, the rest of the dried vegetables and seasonings are readily available. The main varieties are:
Large prawns, small prawns This is not exclusively used in high-end dishes. Ordinary people and even poor people in old Beijing can't afford to eat pig and mutton in winter, so they buy a bag of small shrimp or large shrimp to boil a pot of cabbage, which is really "poor" to eat.
Shrimp skin is mainly used in soup stock, and it can be sprinkled with winter vegetables and seaweed in "dashi" (clear soup made of sesame oil, soy sauce, and vinegar), "white soup" (boiled pork soup), vegetarian noodle soup, and wonton soup. But shrimp husk is a cheap commodity, so it is a food for the poor. For example, in summer, when leeks stink all over the streets, the poor want to eat dumplings and have no money to buy meat, so they buy a large piece of dried shrimp skin and mix it in the leek filling, which is also very beautiful.
Pot fried fish is a small fish about an inch long, which is fried and dried in a pot, and the meat, bones, and bones are crispy. In winter, the poor put it in the stir-fry, which is also a kind of "poor gluttony".
Catfish is a kind of dried fish that is not salted, one or two inches long, and is bought by old Beijingers to feed cats. Because cats can't give salty things to eat, otherwise they will grow leprosy and die. Rich cats are boiled and minced with mutton liver and mixed with white rice; secondly, they are fed with smoked "bitter intestines" (those selling "smoked fish" are sold); and again, they are soaked in catfish and minced and mixed with crushed nest dregs. This is "poor feeding".
Shrimp can also be used in soup stocks. Sometimes it is a seasoning for high-end dishes, such as shrimp and bamboo shoots, which the poor never bother.
Yellow flowers, black fungus, mushrooms It is the pretty head of meat dishes, such as yellow pollen, mushu meat, mushroom meat, etc., and it is also used to marinate when eating lo mein. Among them, the mushroom pays attention to the production of "mouth north" (north of Zhangjiakou), which is called "mouth mushroom". It is characterized by thick meat and a special rich fragrance, and it is the best quality of fungi. Don't talk about diced mushrooms, it is mushroom slag, commonly known as "mushroom soil", which is also very valuable. In the past, vendors selling tofu brains used mushroom soil to boil soup and marinade. Nowadays, mushrooms are rare in the market.
Staghorn is shaped like antlers, hence the name. It is mainly put in the unthickened "Er Marinade" and eaten with noodles. Because of the stickiness, it used to be boiled in water and used to paint the wall. Now because it is used in industry, there is no longer a seller in the market.
Sichuan pepper, big material, and fennel (seeds) are all meat materials, and in the past, only this "three spices" were used. It is not like the meat sold on the market in recent years, called "thirteen spices", with a variety of Chinese herbal flavors such as cloves, cinnamon, and koren.
Dried dough powder is made of mung bean filtration, which is the top grade in starch and is of extremely fine quality. It is used for thickening marinated, stir-fried and stewed vegetables.
As for "Ajinomoto" (i.e., monosodium glutamate), it is an imported product, which has only been available since the 30s, and most of them come from Japan. It turns out that there is a domestic "Tianchu" brand MSG, which is an earlier brand-name product.
cuisine
floor
The vegetable cabinet of the oil and salt shop is located opposite the oil cabinet in the store in winter, and outside the store in spring, summer and autumn, and the pergola is built as usual in summer. The variety of vegetables handled is extremely diverse, and the seasons change. Especially the dishes that are suitable for the festival are the most timely. Its purchase channels are also multifaceted, some from the vegetable market, some directly from rural vegetable farmers, in principle, they are sold as they go to keep it fresh. Every morning, the shopkeeper places a wattle basket with a diameter of about one and a half feet on a wooden rack that is higher than one floor (the frame is slightly tilted forward so that the basket can poke forward) and places fresh vegetables so that customers can see it from a distance. The order of the placement should not only be categorized, but also take care of the red, orange, yellow, green, and purple color matching, so that people look bright.
Spinach In late spring and early summer, spinach is a big road commodity, and it comes in bundles. The old Beijingers bought it back in large quantities, split it and dried it on the gate, collected it after drying, and waited until the New Year to make a splash with water, mixed it with white broth, and wrapped dumplings to eat, called "dried vegetable filling", which had a unique flavor.
Five handfuls of small water radish, tassels are dried and called "yellow vegetables", and they can be eaten with stewed broth in winter, which is the food of the old banner people.
Leeks In the past, there were many kinds of leeks, including green leeks and yellow leeks in winter, "pheasant neck" and "flower waist" in early spring, and "malian leek" and "cover leek" later.
Artemisia stalks Remove the leaves, half fried and half stewed. The leaves are called "Artemisia hair". It can be eaten with sesame paste and vinegar, and it is a cold dish for the poor.
Fresh broad beans, fresh peas Old Beijingers mainly eat them with soup and stew. Fresh broad beans are most beautiful fried with Sichuan winter vegetables and pork.
Zanthoxylum sprouts are also made as "peppercorns". When old Pekingese eat fried noodles, they put them in the fried sauce of diced pork.
Toon sprouts Old Beijingers make fried sauce noodles and sesame sauce noodles "noodles". You can also fry toon fish to eat (that is, chop the toon, mix it in batter and fry it with salt).
Mung bean sprouts are mostly used as a side dish when eating spring cakes. Sometimes it is used as a "noodle yard" for jajanjangmyeon and sesame sauce noodles. At that time, the mung bean sprouts sold in the oil and salt store were called bean sprouts if they were not processed, and the ones that were pinched off at both ends were called "pinched vegetables". In the old days, when the poor children were fine, they would go to the vegetable bed of the oil and salt shop, get a few catties of bean sprouts, "pinch the head and remove the tail", and earn a few big copper dollars a day. In addition, there are soybean sprouts, which are just peeled and do not need to be processed again. The green bean mouth does not need to produce long sprouts, but the green beans are just exposed as soon as the small sprouts are exposed, so it is called the "mouth", which is worthless when it grows. This kind of bean mouth is mostly used for "noodle yards". When the old flag people fry sesame tofu in mutton fat in winter, they must put some green bean mouths, which is a fixed pretty.
In the early spring, the small radish tassels that have just been inspected from the vegetable field have only two small cotyledons, which are high-grade "noodles" and are regarded as fresh goods.
It is worth mentioning that from spring to early summer, mulberry leaves are sold on the vegetable bed. The people of Beijing do not engage in agriculture and do not raise silkworms as a business, but some primary school students or elderly women who are idle raise a very small number of silkworms at home for entertainment. In summer, it is made to spin silk on Korean paper or Dongchang paper (never make it a cocoon), called "cotton", and put it in an ink cartridge. As early as the Ming Dynasty, Beijing was the hometown of mulberry dates, and later mulberry trees gradually declined. Therefore, the vegetable bed of the oil and salt shop sells mulberry leaves on behalf of the company, and it has its fixed customers.
Summer and autumn are the peak seasons for vegetables, winter melon, baleng old gourd, cucumber, zucchini, persimmon pepper, small tip pepper, cabbage (i.e., cabbage, kohlrabi in the Northeast), bamboo shoots, sea tomato, celery, leeks, fennel, potatoes (yam eggs called in old Beijing), onions (shallots), etc., are all big road goods. Tomatoes were imported from Japan during the invasion of China, and at that time, the general old Beijingers did not recognize it at all, saying that it had a green smell, and it was not good for side dishes, and it had no place in traditional dishes. Some Restorationists used it for stir-frying, and they were also denounced as "foreigners". Only the poor children buy a few to eat as fruit. Cauliflower is a favorite dish of the southerners, and it has never been popular among the old Beijingers, so it is not sold on the vegetable bed of the general small oil and salt shop, and it is only sold in the single vegetable market like the east and west, and the price is very high. It is only in the last thirty years that it has been cultivated in large quantities.
During the Dragon Boat Festival, the vegetable bed sells reed leaves for wrapping zongzi and malian grass for tying zongzi. Before the Mid-Autumn Festival, the whole branch of edamame beans is sold, which is offered to the rabbit on the night of August 15, and it is juxtaposed with the cockscomb flower to become an ornament of the Mid-Autumn Festival.
Although winter is the off-season for vegetable beds, there are still more than a dozen kinds of fresh vegetables. Chinese cabbage, Weiqing radish, Xinmei radish, Dahongpao radish, carrot, ivory white radish, potatoes and so on are all road vegetables. The high-end products are green leeks, leeks and garlic produced in the warm cave (greenhouse). This was a dish that ordinary civilians could not afford at that time. In particular, the cucumbers of the warm cave pay attention to the top flowers, thorns, and wrapped in tissue paper, which is expensive. Qing Li Jingshan's poem "Supplementing Dumen Miscellaneous Songs": "Cucumbers are more small than ginseng at first sight, small as hairpins are worth several gold, and small things cannot increase life expectancy, what is the heart of ten thousand dollars and one food?" ridiculed the luxury of the rich in eating and drinking, and objectively revealed the preciousness of greenhouse cucumbers.
The oil and salt shop operates the most complete non-staple food, and there are tofu, dried tofu, fried tofu paulows, noodles, vermicelli, gluten, pimple fat, eggs, old pickled eggs, old pickled duck eggs, pine flowers, etc. In winter, there are also non-staple foods such as hemp tofu (mung bean flour residue, known as the "natal food" of old Beijingers), sauerkraut, and sprout beans (shuifa broad beans).
During the Japanese invasion of China, the vegetable bed of the oil and salt shop was unlucky. In the summers of 1941 and 1942, when there was a disturbance in the Beijing area, the Japanese puppet authorities set up medicine tanks (it is said that the tanks were bleached with powder) to wash vegetables. All rural vegetable farmers who delivered goods to the city were intercepted and forcibly put into the "medicine tank" for "disinfection". All the vegetables that have been washed in the tank, no matter how they are washed, the medicinal smell does not recede, so no one buys the fresh vegetables, the trade of the vegetable beds in the oil and salt shop is greatly affected, and the fresh vegetables in the cart are thrown into the garbage dump, and people have to buy tofu, soy products, bean sprouts and other non-staple foods to accompany the meal, and the vegetable beds in the oil and salt shops have to be resold all soy products.
Grocery cabinets
The old oil and salt store was like a small grocery store. Although it is a miscellaneous cargo, it has a traditional fixed range, and its principle is that only goods that do not smell with food can be sold on consignment. Therefore, the main goods it sells are stationery, paper and paper codes used in folk rituals, plus some daily necessities related to cooking. According to this, it can be roughly divided into three categories:
1. Stationery and paper:
Korean paper, Dongchang paper, and foreign flour were used to paste windows in the early years. Among them, Dongchang paper floor is soft, strong ink absorption, suitable for long-term storage, so the old contract and contract are used.
Hemp paper is a kind of rough paper used for old-style ledgers (the so-called "four-pillar dragon gate" account), which is slightly stronger than hand paper, white and gray, and is recycled paper.
Copy paper, bean paper Toilet paper used to relieve stool in the old days. Copy paper can be used as wrapping paper. All of them are recycled paper.
Straw paper is divided into two thicknesses: the coarse one is used for obstetrics and gynecology, and the thin one can be used as a wrapping paper or pouch for bedding.
Shun red paper New Year's Festival, festive writing couplets.
Yellow rough-edged paper is used for general notices and slogans. In the old days, plaques were written on the edge of yellow wool before being handed over to craftsmen for engraving. After the plaque was made, it was also wrapped in yellow edging and torn off during the ribbon-cutting ceremony.
The large block paper, small block paper, and line paper are the practice paper used by students, all of which are printed with red and green grids on high gold paper. The block paper is divided into rice grid and nine-square grid. The writing paper is a vertical line of red and green grids, like letter paper.
Red mold is used by elementary school students to practice tracing when they are getting started with brush characters. The woodblock is printed in red water, and each sheet is mostly 24 characters, with a variety of different verses. The common ones are: "One, two, three, four, five, gold, wood, water, fire, and earth, the gentleman only knows his fate, and he does not need to take the blame." Yihai Yearbook. "One goes to two or three miles, four or five Yan villages, six or seven pavilions, and eighty or ninety flowers. Learn words by heart. The most is: "Lord Shang, Kong Yiji, three thousand, seventy scholars, Er Xiaosheng, eight or nine sons, people can know etiquette." "
Envelopes and stationery are Chinese-style vertical envelopes and eight-line letterheads, and they are also sold on behalf of the mail
Ticket.
Paper envelope The red envelope is pasted with a red sign, which is used for the family of the family to give a gift to the family of the happy birthday. The blue label on the yellow envelope is used for the funeral family to give a part of the gift.
2. Folk worship of gods and Buddhas and funeral supplies:
God code with woodblock watercolor printing of "Golden Stove" (perennial worship of the Stove Wangye), "Burning Stove" (one-time sacrificial stove Wang Ye statue), collectively called "the god of life", the statue of the God of Fortune, the statue of the Holy Emperor of Weixian Guan, the code of the star god, the statue of the star of the longevity of the life, the Bixia Yuanjun (Taishan Niangniang) code, the child, the birth, the vision, the pox Niangniang statue, the Kang Gong, the Kang mother statue, the white horse pioneer statue (for the child to be frightened "Harvest" for the use) and so on. It is roughly the same as the god code sold by the incense wax shop, but the size is slightly smaller and the quality is rougher. By the early 50s, these things had become unsalable, and oil and salt shops cut them into small pieces and used them in pickles.
Worship money and grain refers to the yellow money, thousands of zhang, ingots, etc. used in the worship of gods and Buddhas.
Gao Xiang is 52 per share, and 5 shares are one piece. Incense sticks, used to burn incense. The official hanging incense, about two feet long, is wrapped in three hoops with yellow paper strips, which are used to give to the mourners, and are given to relatives and friends as torches when "receiving three".
White paper lantern is a kind of straw bark (mat 篾) woven into a long circle of lampshade, pasted with white paper, made of bamboo bark in the middle of the beam, with thin wood as a support, inserted in the middle of a small wax, for temporary lighting at night. However, it is generally used for funerals, and is distributed to relatives and friends at night during the "third day" and lit for lighting. In the early days of liberation, these lanterns still existed, but most of them were used as temporary lighting when riding bicycles to cope with traffic management inspections.
The gold and silver leaf was about three inches long and two inches wide, and fifty pieces of gold and silver. It is used to fold ingots and nickel, wear them with threads, and decorate them with colored paper spikes. In the old days, I bought more of this and gave it to the mourners as a funeral.
Large and small burned paper The large burned paper is six open white paper, each of which smashes four rows of round coins with a diameter of two inches, and each row has five pieces. It is used for general mourning activities. The small burning paper is a small white paper four inches square, and there are 20 round coins the size of money. It is used for the dead who have just swallowed their breath and burned the so-called "inverted head" paper.
Gold, silver and nickel basket is made of pu leaves into a long cylindrical basket, which is filled with large burning paper and gold and silver foil stacked buns, which is called gold, silver and nickel basket, and is given to the bereaved family to lay the funeral.
Lamp paper is a kind of colored cotton paper, about eight carat in size, each sheet has a white edge of one inch and a half. Usually there are two colors of yellow and white, used for the eighth day of the first month to worship the stars, when the lanterns are scattered on the fifteenth night of the first month, they are turned into lanterns, and they are lit with sesame oil, so as to worship God, welcome auspiciousness, send away, and call it "gold and silver lamps". There are also red, blue, green, and even flowers, these are also used for lantern flowers, the old Beijingers call this "iron lamp", mostly used for the dead "turn their heads", light the street lamp.
3. Miscellaneous:
In the old days, public places and cigarette pavilions used Panxiang to facilitate customers to smoke. Because it is more economical than using matches, and it is safe.
Realgar incense is a kind of medicinal fragrance as thick as a pencil shaft and about two feet long. In the summer, residents put it on brick incense trays and used it to smoke mosquitoes.
There are two kinds of wax, red and white, the red one is used to light lanterns at festivals, and the white one is used for lighting.
The matches are mostly Danfeng matches produced by Danhua Match Factory, the yellow box has a red head, and it can be scratched everywhere, and there is a fine glass powder sticked next to the box to draw matches. During the Japanese pseudo-period, there were "tiger monkey" brand matches.
Casserole There are also small utensils related to eating and cooking, such as sand blue seeds, sand rust seeds, and bamboo chopsticks.
Paper cigarettesAll kinds of paper cigarettes can be disassembled and sold in small boxes.
Baijiu sells Laobai dry liquor and has small coarse porcelain bowls, where customers stand at the counter and drink "Waner Liquor" with a pack of peanuts or flowering beans to accompany the wine.
Tooth powder: Salt for gargling, tooth powder for lion and old train brands, as well as sunlight soap, orchid soap, etc.
Operation: Manner
Most of the old Beijing oil and salt shops were opened by Shanxi people, who were very good at trading, telling credit to peers and customers, and flaunting "righteousness for profit". Because they understand that if they want to gain a firm foothold in the capital under the emperor's chariot, they must rely on communication and interpersonal relationships, as the saying goes: "Rely on your parents at home and rely on your friends when you go out." "They are good at touching people's feelings, especially for customer psychology, and they are all proficient. In terms of service attitude, it has always emphasized that "harmony makes money". In the business varieties to strive for diversification, tireless work, the implementation of small profits but quick turnover. In terms of business hours, when there are customers, when is the business hours, can be described as diligent! They have formed a set of unique business methods over the years:
1. In the past, every oil and salt shop had its fixed customers, and all nearby residents and shops could become its regular caretakers. In other words, every oil and salt shop has its "sphere of influence" that has been formed for a long time, which is superior to any other trade. If you can have a good relationship with the people in your neighborhood, especially the wealthy people's houses, it will be profitable. Therefore, the shopkeeper of the oil and salt shop must consciously get in touch with these households, and his means are nothing more than visiting or sending friends to give gifts, and in case of weddings and funerals, he takes the initiative to follow a group and contact feelings in many ways in order to take care of them.
Before the 1937 "77" Incident, they adopted the method of selling on credit to some permanent households, and customers did not have to pay cash for goods to buy goods, but wrote the accounts payable on a small fold of linen paper and blue cloth cover. Wait until the Dragon Boat Festival, Mid-Autumn Festival, and Spring Festival to settle the settlement, which is called the three festivals of accounting. In this way, it not only opens up the sales doorway, but also facilitates the residents and fixes the customers. During the Japanese pseudo-period, due to the instability of prices, this method was abolished.
Second, take the initiative to deliver goods to the door. For example, in the past, the chefs of the red and white sheds needed a large number of vegetables, non-staple foods, ingredients, and even seafood after the banquet. As long as the manifest is sent, the counter will be delivered immediately. Some high-end seafood products, such as white fungus, sea cucumbers, dried scallops and the like, this cabinet is not distributed, in order to pull customers can also make an exception to the big south store to purchase, and then, during the New Year's holiday, the chef and servant of the rich family can pull out the list of fresh vegetables and dried vegetables, all kinds of non-staple food ingredients and so on in advance, and send them to the store. Generally, the list will be delivered in the morning, and it will be delivered to your door in the afternoon. If there is a rice and noodle cabinet, the customer comes to buy grain, as long as the flour is enough - a bag (44 catties per bag), and half a bag of rice (200 catties per bag> a small man will be sent to carry it, if it is a large quantity, it will be loaded on the row car, and the little man will be pulled, and the freight will not be charged.
3. The vast majority of customers are civilians and poor people. They demand a lot of low-grade non-staple foods and demand affordability. They buy diligently (the number of transactions is high), buy miscellaneous (the variety of transactions is more), but the purchasing power is poor (the transaction volume is small). Stores don't let their spending be small. On the contrary, the store is very good at studying and grasping the psychology of these customers based on the principle of small profits and quick turnover, and does everything possible to pull these scattered transactions. At that time, some customers, especially the elderly women, bought things with a good budget, so as to take advantage of the small advantage, the people of the time called the "old poor woman", often buy a piece of winter melon, two green onions, after the end of the request to spare a coriander (to make condiments), the shop guy all smiled and said: "Old lady, you take two by yourself, the old customers, the old neighbors, don't say!" Another example: the oil cabinet often receives some poor people, buy two large pieces of sesame paste, a large piece of leek flowers, spare some chili paste, the store also agreed. In fact, the store has already calculated the total price of these three things. There are also children who beat vinegar and soy sauce, and before they left the store, they fell and smashed their belongings, and the direction of the store said: "Don't worry, don't be afraid!" The loss of the store is only one or two big coppers, and the price of exchange is immeasurable. Because the child went back to tell the adults, the adults, out of gratitude to the store, inevitably had to comment to the neighbors outside the courtyard, which had a great impact, and it was stronger than advertising. Another example: such a transaction often occurs on the noodle counter, and the person pulling the foreign car puts the car at the door and wants to buy two catties of millet noodles without pockets. At this time, the store took the initiative to take out two large pieces of "copy paper" and wrap them, without being stingy. These practices can win the goodwill of some poor people, and are extremely beneficial to the further business development of the store.
Fourth, highlight "harmony and wealth", and even endure humiliation. This is the business of the old store, and whoever does not follow this principle will lose in the business competition. In particular, the employees of the oil and salt shop treat customers, are not familiar with pretending to be familiar, try to set close, pay attention to politeness, politeness, take the initiative to greet customers, ask for goods, select goods, exchange goods, never show boredom, and even customers want the wrong oil, vinegar, when asking for replacement, they also patiently pour out the original oil and vinegar, if it is an open bowl, it should be wiped clean, and then put on a new one. What needs to be explained here is that in the old days, there were many poor people, and some scoundrels deliberately went to find cheap, first said to play sesame oil, and after playing well, they said that they were going to make a mistake, and changed to soy sauce, so that it was impossible for the store to pour oil without a drop, so that it became a combination of soy sauce and sesame oil. In this case, the store fully understands and does not reprimand, but just laughs at it, at most wiping the bowl clean, on the one hand, showing sincerity and courtesy, on the other hand, so that the other party can not take advantage.
In the old days, some rich and powerful families, and some subordinates bullied people in the name of their masters. In 1947, a middle-aged man went to the Gongxing Chang Oil and Salt Shop on the old Gulou Street, claiming to be the manager of a governor's mansion, and wanted to make a batch of vegetables and vegetables in order to treat guests. The shopkeeper hurriedly ran out of the cabinet room and said, "Yo, who should I be? Back then, our cabinet was all up to the old man in your house!" He turned around and said to the man: "Give the second master a gift, how can we accept people's money with a clean face!" Quick, quick, send things to the house for the second master," because he took the initiative to deliver the goods, the result was that the "old man in the house" knew the reason for this matter, and the next day not only took the initiative to send the money over, but also disciplined the subordinate who pretended to be in charge, and since then, he has made a deal with this oil and salt shop.
Fifth, highlight the "industry is good at diligence". Employees do not care about the service time, as long as there are customers, to sell goods, all year round is after 9 o'clock in the evening to close the door on the board, after the board, there is a small door opening, can be called at any time to buy things. In addition to the three festivals (Dragon Boat Festival, Mid-Autumn Festival, Spring Festival), the guys take turns off... Half a day away, there is no work on weekdays, and individuals can only ask the shopkeeper for leave if they have important matters such as weddings and funerals. In the old calendar year, all other shops were completely closed, except for the oil and salt shops, including the rice and noodle cabinets, which had men on duty to sell goods. From the first day to the fifth day of the Lunar New Year, leave a small hole in the window panel as a temporary counter. Because some poor people cannot afford to prepare food and non-staple food for six or seven days, they need to earn and spend money and buy and eat now. The store is not only not tired of this kind of poor customer, but thinks that it is the "God of Wealth".