The history and craftsmanship of etched agate
The Indus Valley Civilization, also known as the Harappan Civilization or the Mohenjo-Daro Civilization, was a thriving ancient civilization between about 3300 BC and about 1900 BC.
The main sites and extent of the Indus Valley Civilization
This civilization flourished in the regions of present-day India, Pakistan, and Afghanistan, and its urban ruins, such as Harappa, Mohenjo-Daro, Loal, and Hadapa, show elaborate urban layouts, complex drainage systems, elaborate artefacts, and the use of hieroglyphs.
Mohenjo-Daro archaeological site
Considered one of the earliest civilizations in the world, it arose at the same time as the civilizations of ancient Egypt and Mesopotamia.
The granary and hall landscape ruins of the ancient city of Harappa
The charm of jewelry
The inhabitants of the Indus Valley civilization were given an early possibility to choose from a wide range of precious and semi-precious stones due to the abundance of mineral deposits in the surrounding area.
Bull flat seal with inscription 2500-1900 BC Indus Valley Civilization - Maturity See Art Museum Collection
In the sites of civilization, archaeologists are always accompanied by the discovery of strings of beads, small seals, figurines and various specialized tools.
Fossil barrel beads Early Indus Valley Civilization 3300-2600 BC Domain: Museum of Art
The materials from which these jewels are made include chalcedony agate, garnet, lapis lazuli, gold, silver, bronze alloys, stones, ceramics, shells, bones and ivory, and even hand-fired Fianse.
The birth of etched agate
The Indus Valley civilization was the birthplace of the art of etched agate, especially Harappa, which is considered to be the center of the production of etched agate beads and other beads.
Eclipse Carnelian Barrel Beads Indus Valley Civilization 2600-1900 BC Domain: Collection of the Museum of Art
As early as 2600 B.C., the craftsmen of Harappa began to practice the art of etched agate.
Tricolor Eclipse Beads, Indus Valley Civilization, See Museum of Art
Typical etched agate is white flowers on a red background, but there are also tubular beads with white flowers on a black background and beads with a white eye circle pattern on a black background.
Craftsmanship and development
The ornamental patterns of this period favored eye circles, folded lines, and parallel coils, which differed from the decorative style of the later Iron Age agate beads.
Etched Agate Beads, Indus Valley Civilization, See Museum of Art
Through an analysis of a large number of beads and blanks excavated from the sites of the Indus Valley civilization, the researchers found that as early as the Harappan period, bead artisans were able to optimize the raw material and pre-heat the material according to its characteristics to make it redder and more showy.
Carnelian beads with eye pattern etching Indus Valley Civilization 2600-1900 BC See collection of the Museum of Art
Different kinds of ores, such as agate, chalcedony, and jasper, are heat-treated to enhance the color and texture of the material before making the beads.
Etched Agate Beads, Indus Valley Civilization, See Museum of Art
Some stones, such as limestone and sandstone, as well as quartz, amazite, serpentine, lapis lazuli, garnet, etc., are processed directly because they cannot be optimized during heating.
Eclipse Carnelian Barrel Beads Indus Valley Civilization 2600-1900 BC Domain: Collection of the Museum of Art
Making beads involves multiple steps such as slicing, grooving, sawing, fine pecking, and grinding, and usually punching and polishing are not carried out until the beads are made.
Eclipse carnelian beads, Indus Valley Civilization See Art Museum Collection
In the case of etched agate beads, the decoration process is the final step, through which a specific pattern is added.
The revival of the etched beads
First appeared in 2600 BC, it disappeared for almost a millennium with the decline of the Indus Valley civilization around 1500 BC.
Carnelian beads with eye pattern etching Indus Valley Civilization 2600-1900 BC See collection of the Museum of Art
However, around 500 BCE, with the boom of the Iron Age, the technology of etched agate was re-emerged, and this revival encompassed a vast area from the southern foothills of the Himalayas to Southeast Asia, including Kashmir, Tibet, the Nanga Bhava Mountains, and Southeast Asia.
Angular tricolor eclipse beads, Indus Valley Civilization See Art Museum Collection
Within this region, the techniques of etched agate are diverse, and each region has developed its own unique type of craft.
epilogue
Etched agate beads from the Indus Valley civilization reveal the outstanding craftsmanship skills and unique culture of this ancient civilization.
Eye-patterned carnelian beads, Indus Valley Civilization See Art Museum Collection
The history of the Etched Agate carries the memory of time, its origins can be traced back to 2600 BC, experienced booms and declines, and then re-entered the spotlight in a later historical period.
Carnelian beads, Indus Valley Civilization See Art Museum Collection
These beads reflect the ingenuity and creativity of the ancient Indus Valley civilization.
Carnelian beads, Indus Valley Civilization See Art Museum Collection
Whether it's craftsmanship or patterning, they are a precious cultural heritage that has influenced jewelry making in the Indian subcontinent and beyond.
To learn more about the world's ancient culture and beadwork art, please pay attention to [Yujian Art Museum]
Bibliography:
Zhu Xiaoli.Chapter 1 Eclipse Agate in the East Indus Valley.Himalayan Dzi.Guangxi Fine Arts Publishing House.202011