Speaking of Guangming Estate, it seems that Shanghainese people know it, but if you trace the roots, your friend Nong may not be refreshing. Ma Shanglong, a writer of the Hai School, said that he had lived in the Lane Tang of Guangming Estate next to the Grand Restaurant in Guangming Estate since he was a child, but the name of the lane was not actually Called Guangming Estate.
So, where is the real Bright Estate? What is the connection between the Bright Estate Grand Restaurant and the Bright Estate Lane and the Bright Estate? During the National Day, the morning newspaper reporter made a visit to this.
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From the Middle Huaihai Road Station of Metro Line 13, walk on Huaihai Road, enter the word "Guangming" in baidu map, and the first thing that jumps out is "Guangming Estate Restaurant". No need to ask for directions, see two long lines at the door, that's where it arrives.
Interestingly, many Shanghai residents and foreign tourists now refer to the Guangming Estate Restaurant as "Guangming Estate", and over time, some staff in the store have also defaulted to the abbreviation of "Guangming Estate Restaurant". Of course, for writers, this imprecise title often makes it easy to "take medicine".
According to Ma Shanglong, the four seasons of The Bright Estate are all peak seasons. According to the Grand Restaurant of Guangming Estate, its fresh meat mooncakes are available for 365 days, and everyone does not have to rush to buy them on holidays. But what is interesting is that it seems that Shanghainese are just happy to roll and fierce, that is, to queue up with joy (see this newspaper's previous report). The reporter went to the Guangming Estate Restaurant on Huaihai Road at 9 o'clock today, thinking of taking a few photos and buying some fresh meat mooncakes to bring back to honor his family, but when he saw the queue, he finally gave up.
There are two teams in front of the door of the Guangming Estate Dajiu: one team is to buy cooked food, and the other team is to buy fresh meat mooncakes, and unlike the Mid-Autumn Festival, the gap in the length of the two teams has narrowed a little, and there are fewer citizens and friends who come to buy mooncakes with suitcases.
The reporter chatted with the familiar staff in the large restaurant in Guangming Estate, and some customers carried the cream cake box up the stairs, saying that they were waiting to eat lunch with their families, and the reporter looked at the mobile phone to show the time, only 9:55. I don't want to go to the catering business is also so good.
Morning Post: Teacher Ma, I heard that you have lived in Lane Tong Tang, Guangming Estate since you were a child, has this kind of lane life experience had a great impact on your future writing?
Ma Shanglong: Of course, because this is the place where I grew up, even my household registration is in this place, from childhood memories until I grew up. So my understanding of Huaihai Road is completely different, I was still telling my friend two days ago, if for a tourist, you arrive at Huaihai Road, you see only the flat Huaihai Road, which is a one-dimensional world; if you come to Huaihai Road a few more times, it is a two-dimensional world; the three-dimensional Huaihai Road can be deeply questioned. Where is the Huaihai Road in the fourth dimension? In memory, in growth, in pursuit, in love (see Ma Shanglong: The Four-Dimensional Space Through Huaihai Road for details).
Like me, who has entered this alley to feel the real Life of Huaihai Road, then this life experience must be more impressive than others. So the article I am writing about Huaihai Road now, many people will read it and say, "Teacher Ma, what you wrote is different from others", where is the difference? Not the same as in my own childhood memories.
Morning News: So, when did the time trajectory of this life experience begin?
Ma Shanglong: From birth to 46 years old.
Morning News: The big restaurant in Guangming Estate, which we are familiar with now, was his business so prosperous when you were a child?
Ma Shanglong: The Grand Restaurant in Guangming Estate was originally a dim sum shop. As a dim sum shop, it is mainly based on eating noodles, and its dish steamed buns and meat steamed buns are very famous, so we knew this place when we were young. Fame is small, but there are also queues. Of course, at that time, this kind of queuing was only a queue of more than a dozen people, and it was enough to queue for ten minutes, and the business at that time was like this.
By the 1990s, there were some changes in The Bright Estate (Where Mr Ma began to refer to the "Bright Estate Restaurant" as "Bright Estate") there were some changes. For example, in order to meet the needs of the one-child generation, there was once a kind of "one bite of freshness", a kind of dim sum wrapped in a filling like a spring roll with a blind leaf bag.
When did it really flourish? It started in 2000. The Cheong Hong Estate underwent a major renovation in the early 1990s and it turned out to be a floor, that is, the ground floor belonged to The Light Estate, the second floor and above all the way up to the fourth floor belonged to the home, and after the renovation, the whole house was in The Bright Estate. Well, then they started the restaurant business. At the beginning, the business was still average, and there was a general manager surnamed Dong at that time, and we called him Lao Dong. What service has been launched? If an old man comes to the hotel to set up a birthday banquet, he will use a brush to write a "shou" word on the spot, so that the elderly diners nearby feel very kind, and the old man has calligraphy to send on his birthday, so the business begins to improve.
The takeaway deli business in Cheong Kong Estate is also better than elsewhere as it is homegrown and sold, rather than buying from processing plants like other delicatessens, which are self-fired, so the deli business has been very good.
Later, Bright Estate added a mooncake that did not belong to it, as I joked. Originally, the shops that made mooncakes on Huaihai Road included those selling fresh meat mooncakes, the Changchun Food Store diagonally opposite Guangming Estate, and the Takahashi Food Store (retreated store) a little further past, which were the traditional places where Mooncakes were sold on Huaihai Road, but later with the reconstruction of the Changchun Food Store, Huaihai Road became the feeling of "riding on the dust" of Guangming Estate. Since then, its mooncake business has been very good.
The catering business in Guangming Estate is very good, which is very rare in HuaiHai Road because it tastes good and is cheaper than others, why is it cheap? Because it has its own storefront and low rent costs, it can take the route of good quality and low price, which is the most fundamental reason why it has a good business.
Morning News: By the way, will you still go to the Grand Restaurant in Guangming Estate to buy mooncakes?
Ma Shanglong: I think the queue is not moving. Maybe sometimes a friend will bring me (mooncakes), which I think is very good. The things in Guangming Estate are delicious, some people like to queue, and some people give up in order to queue, I don't like to queue, I don't go to the queue for mooncakes.
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Morning Post: We have reported that the names of the two long-established brands in Guangming Estate and Luyang Village are not uniform, if you usually write the names of these two stores, how will you write?
Ma Shanglong: For the same hotel, if it is a grand restaurant in Guangming Estate, then it should be based on its registered trademark, and its name must be unified. It's like my Name Ma Shanglong, and I'm sure I'm going to unify the way I write my name, right?
Morning Post: For Shanghainese, is estate and village an interesting topic?
Ma Shanglong: Actually, this is a very long topic, and I can say it politely, the difference between estate and village is the first thing I discovered. I can explain to you that most of the old-fashioned apartment houses use the variant "estate", while the workers' new village uses the "village" of the village, such as Shaanxi Southern Estate and Yugu Estate, he uses the variant "estate", then Caoyang New Village, Shanggang New Village, it uses the village "village". I wrote an article called "The Estate and the Village's "Shanghai Beach Grudge", which was combed in detail in my book "Shanghai Measure", and interested readers can take a look at it.
Morning Post: Why is there a difference and coexistence between villages and estates?
Ma Shanglong: Generally so, but you will also find that in the old-fashioned houses in Shaanxi South Village, he sometimes uses the "village" of the village, for example, there is a Yongfeng village on Chongqing South Road, and he uses the word "village" of the village; and the paris new village that has been a little further past, the strangest thing is the same house, the "Paris New Estate" above the wall is a variant, and the "Paris New Village" written on the nameplate below is the "village" of the village, and the text logic of the same building is different, how did this problem arise?
In fact, I originally thought that the old-style house should use this "estate", and the new-style house should use the "village" of the workers' new village, and later when I was writing the article, an old gentleman who lived in CaoYang New Village told me that he was born in Cao Yang New Village, which was called "Cao Yang New Estate" at that time, not "Cao Yang New Village" in simplified characters. This friend showed me historical photos of the house number of that year, and it was indeed the word "estate" instead of "village". This situation is mainly related to the introduction of simplified characters after 1956, and almost all "estates" in Shanghai have been changed to "village". After 1976, Communities such as Shannan Village have restored the word "estate", but there is no unified administrative order, and if you want to add it, you can add it.
I just think that this is a kind of Shanghai culture in Shanghai, a very wonderful embodiment, so that two words coexist, in the sense of our simplified characters, the word "estate" is no longer there, traditional characters and variants we have simplified, but it is precisely in this residential format, it has different meanings.
Morning Post: Is The Bright Estate named after the lane where you live?
Ma Shanglong: No, here I would like to correct it, our lane is not actually called Guangming Estate, there is a lane on Nanchang Road called Guangming Estate (built around 1936, it belongs to the new lane). Because The Bright Estate is now very famous and sometimes has a little landmark significance, everyone calls our lane "Bright Estate Lane". Where does Nong live? Allah lives in the Lanes of Le Guangming Estate, but do not call them Le Guangming Estates. For example, the lane of the Chinese Academy of Social Sciences is Lane 622 of Huaihai Middle Road, we call him "Lane of the Academy of Social Sciences", in fact, its official name is called Taishan Apartment (built in 1928-1930, belonging to the excellent historical buildings of Shanghai), it is also an apartment house; before that, this lane had the Party School of the Municipal Party Committee, and we first called it "Party School Alley".
How did today's Bright Estate Restaurant develop and evolve? The reporter had previously consulted an article in a food magazine, which read: "In October 1956, No. 588 Huaihai Middle Road established a public-private canteen mainly engaged in various types of popular dim sum, which is the predecessor of the Grand Restaurant in Guangming Estate. So, is this statement authoritative? After some twists and turns, the reporter finally obtained relevant historical information from the Grand Restaurant of Guangming Estate.
The history of Cheong Kong Estate dates back 50 years, when The Cheung Kong Estate was known for its special pastry as the "Guangming Estate Dim Sum Shop", which was the "Traditional Specialty Designated Supply Unit of Shanghai Catering Company". On October 29, 1956, Huaihai Canteen was established at the current site; in the third quarter of 1958, Luwan District Catering Service Company was established; in January 1960, Huaihai Canteen was changed to a state-owned unit, and the name of the store was officially changed to Guangming Estate Dim Sum Shop. In accordance with the spirit of the district at that time on building Huaihai Middle Road into a prosperous and elegant commercial street, with the approval of the superiors, the Grand Restaurant of Guangming Estate was renovated, and on July 22, 1990, it was closed for the reconstruction of "Guangming Estate Grand Restaurant". On 29 December 1993, the store was officially opened under the name of "Guangming Estate Grand Restaurant".
Where is the Bright Estate in the minds of Shanghainese? Maybe it's the location of the community in real life, maybe it's the Bright Estate where you once lived, or the Bright Estate that queues up every day... Every Shanghainese has their own answer.