The fourth generation of heirs Li Fuzhou.
When it comes to Shenyang Li Liangui bacon flatbread, the "sitting households" of old Shenyang are well known. The 100-year-old brand once created the spectacle of customers waiting in long lines before opening their doors for decades. Today, the main store is located at the intersection of Middle Street, a few steps away from the Liu Laogen Grand Stage.
In the change of current affairs for more than a century, Shenyang Li Liangui bacon flatbread has not only written a legendary past, but also experienced the ups and downs of resurrection. In 2015, Li Liangui's traditional bacon flatbread making technique was included in the list of "Intangible Cultural Heritage of Shenyang".
A plate of fragrant flatbread is mouth-watering.
<h1 class= "pgc-h-arrow-right" > legendary past to forge the signboard</h1>
It was an ordinary autumn day. At 9:00 a.m., several tables of guests were already seated at Shenyang Li Liangui Bacon Flatbread General Store. Two young men sit at opposite tables, buried in their heads and feasting; a retired old couple flips the menu card while exchanging memories of a certain dish. Against the wall, an old man with a flower armor stood alone, and thoughtfully, a large plate of bacon and a stack of large cakes occupied a large tabletop, as if it was not for a full stomach, but for remembrance.
The total store area is not large, more than 100 square meters, the decoration is very ordinary, and even with the atmosphere of the old state-owned units, but the four walls are hung with dozens of plaques, one by one to look closely, perhaps they are the old store so low-key underpinnings. An old man with a kind face pushed the door in, not attracting the attention of the diners at all. This old man is the head of this old shop, Li Fuzhou, the fourth generation inheritor of Li Liangui's bacon flatbread shop. Three rounds of the store every day is his habit of not moving; going to the vegetable shop at 4 a.m. every day to personally select meat is the daily routine of the head man who has not changed for decades.
Where did the century-old Li Liangui bacon flatbread come from? The 76-year-old leader, Yo-Yo, told a legendary story.
Li Liangui is a native of Luan County, Hebei Province. As early as the Daoguang years of the Qing Dynasty, his father opened a raw meat shop with the name of "Prosperous And Thick", and also sold cooked meat and lazy cakes, which was well-known in the local area, which laid the foundation for Li Lianguizi to inherit his father's business in the future.
In 1908, due to the flood in his hometown, Li Liangui's family went to the northeast to break into the Guandong, and after settling down in Fenghua County, Jilin Province, Li Liangui reopened the "Prosperous Thick Butcher Shop".
One day 3 years later, Li Liangui came across an old man who was knocked to the ground blind, covered in blood. The kind Li Liangui carried the old man home and applied medicine to heal the wounds. After the old man recovered, he called Li Liangui to him and said to him, "I have nothing to repay, I know you are making bacon, just pass on my ancestral bacon secret recipe to you!" "It turned out that the old man was a famous Chinese medicine doctor in the early years. After getting the secret recipe, Li Liangui bought back the medicine materials from different Chinese medicine shops to cook the meat according to the instructions of the old man, and the pork cooked using this secret recipe had a unique aroma, and once it was sold, people rushed to buy it.
Subsequently, Li Liangui used the soup oil and noodle pancakes to cook the meat. The flatbread he baked was golden in color and crispy and delicious. In terms of eating method, you can eat the bread and meat separately, you can also eat it with a large cake rolled with bacon, and you can also chop the meat and eat it in the cake layer.
After bacon flatbread became famous, Li Liangui set a rule for his family: it is better not to make money than to lose your reputation. As a result, the butcher shop is full of people and business is booming. Until 1940, Li Liangui suddenly suffered from cerebral hemorrhage and died suddenly.
In 1950, Li Chunsheng, the grandson of Li Liangui, came to Shenyang Middle Street with old soup on his back and hung the sign of "Li Liangui Bacon Flatbread Shop".
The unique flavor of Li Liangui bacon flatbread is deeply loved by the public because of its delicious smoked flavor. When some party and state leaders came to Shenyang to inspect the work, Li Chunsheng personally took his apprentices to the hotel and carefully made bacon flatbread, which was highly praised by the chiefs.
By the end of the 1980s, Li Chunsheng was nearly the end of his life, his physical strength and energy were not as good as before, and Li Liangui's bacon flatbread shop business was deteriorating.
<h1 class= "pgc-h-arrow-right" > the old store was ordered</h1>
Just when Li Liangui's bacon flatbread shop was in danger due to poor management, Li Chunsheng's personal disciple Li Fuzhou was ordered to take up the position of hotel manager.
Li Fuzhou is a model worker in Shenyang, a special first-class chef, the proud disciple of Chinese cooking masters Tang Keming and Wang Puting, and more importantly, he is one of the inheritors of the Li family's bacon flatbread technology and has become the best person to be entrusted with a heavy responsibility.
"At that time, because of poor management, some employees made food shoddily and simplified the process, such as the blood and water that should be soaked, and the rolled out cake was very thick, which caused dissatisfaction among customers, and received complaints one after another, which greatly affected the reputation."
Faced with the burden of reviving Li Liangui's time-honored brand, Li Fuzhou secretly resolved that he must pass on the traditional production process and never let the golden sign fall into his hands.
First of all, pay close attention to quality. Li Fuzhou strictly controls all aspects of dispensing, meat selection, soup, noodles, and heat.
When he chooses pork, instead of blood neck and small belly, special front grooves to the intercostal fat and lean fresh pork with skin, washed with warm water, and soaked in water for 6 to 10 hours to remove blood stains.
Li Fuzhou said that some links that guests can't see at all are important and must be strictly processed: "The meat must be soaked in bloody water and washed, so that it can be put into the sauce pot to better absorb the aroma of soup and medicinal ingredients." ”
In addition to strict quality control, Li Fuzhou also made a bold attempt in the ratio of spices, increasing the number of 9 kinds of Chinese medicines to 13 kinds, and changing the use period of one dose of medicine from 7 days to 3 days. He also immersed himself in the development of a signature egg flower soup made of large bones, which was loved by the public.
At the same time, Li Fuzhou also reformed the store, introduced a modern way of managing enterprises, advocated the corporate culture concept of inheriting the old brand, greatly mobilized the enthusiasm of employees, and finally put the century-old brand on the right track.
<h1 class= "pgc-h-arrow-right" > fruitful and brilliant</h1>
It has been 30 years since he was appointed in danger. Li Fuzhou still remembers that after more than a year of hard work and rectification, Li Liangui's bacon flatbread shop has once again ushered in its peak and glory.
"It was the early 90s of last century, and 'Li Liangui' originally started business at 11:00 a.m., but at that time, every day at 4:00 a.m. outside the store, a large queue of number stations began to queue..." On a cold winter day, a "big cotton jacket" snaked out a hundred meters away, becoming the most unforgettable memory of Li Fuzhou's life.
Not wanting customers to wait too long, Li Fuzhou advanced the opening time to 9 o'clock, "but it can also be sold for two or three hours, and by noon it will all be sold out." ”
The renovated shop is very hot, the diners are endless, customers often need to wait a long time to find a seat, but a fragrant bacon flatbread is full of oil, but the customer feels particularly satisfied. "At that time, if you could eat a meal of 'Li Liangui', you could blow with people for half a day, and some old people wanted to eat Li Liangui bacon flatbread after being hospitalized." What made Li Fuzhou feel the most was that some foreign guests wrote to them after they returned, saying that "Li Liangui has returned."
From its founding in Shenyang in the 1950s to the continued development of Li Fuzhou in the 1990s, Li Liangui's bacon flatbread shop has received countless honors over the years.
In 2008, the Shenyang Municipal Bureau of Commerce awarded the first batch of 36 "time-honored brands" in Shenyang, and Shenyang Li Liangui Bacon Flatbread Shop, LuMingchun Hotel, Laobian Dumplings and so on took the lead in the list.
In 2015, Li Liangui's traditional bacon flatbread making technique was listed as a municipal intangible cultural heritage by the Shenyang Municipal Government.
Today, Li Li, the daughter of Li Fuzhou, inherits her father's business and has started a brand chain operation to achieve unified management and centralized production. At present, Shenyang Li Liangui Bacon Flatbread Shop has opened direct branches in Panjin, Anshan, Fushun, Benxi, Dandong, Yingkou and other places, and the former street shops have begun to move towards beautiful shop-in-shops and food courts. This memories of the tongue that Shenyang people can hardly give up may one day drift across the country.
Shenyang Daily, Shen Bao all-media reporter Zhang Ping / Wen Chief reporter Li Hao / photo
Wang Peiting, editor of the New Media Center of Shenyang Daily (Shenyang Net).