I don't know if you have noticed that the makeup of costume dramas is quietly transforming.
In the past few years, the "funeral style" was popular, with white gauze and white clothes with white skirts, and even the headdress was pale color. The sense of design is not at all, it looks like a collective funeral with linen and filial piety, which is strange and unlucky.
Although the ideal state is that the white clothes are fluttering and fluttering, the actual state is "whose bed sheets and mosquito nets have become fine?"
In the past two years, it has been popular to "build in a disorderly manner", the costumes are mainly red and green, and the headdress is like an illegal building, which can be stacked as high as possible.
Insert a few flowers, shake a few steps, hairpins are indispensable, and finally add a layer of large cockscomb. Do a good job of styling a thousand pounds, and the actors have incarnated into Yi Xiu: Jian Qiu ~ The head of the palace hurts so much.
In general, the makeup of costume dramas has changed from extremely plain to extremely complicated. It's not that stylists don't understand the truth of overreach, but assembly line products, saving worry, effort and money. The same modeling team, in the case of sufficient funds and careful design, can also hand over a good answer, but if it is needed in a hurry, it will be popular to pile up something, this one is used up, and the next one can continue to use.
Today, we are going to talk to you about the high and low scores of these makeup teams.
Senior stylist Zhang Shuping is from Hong Kong, and cooperated with famous directors such as Tsui Hark, Wong Kar-wai, and Jiang Wen in the early years, and his representative works include "Green Snake", "The Legend of the Swordsman of Xinshu Mountain", "Liang Zhu", "In the Mood for Love", etc., and has won the Hong Kong Film Awards and Taiwan Golden Horse Awards many times.
Zhang Shuping, who has a lot of achievements, came to domestic entertainment, but he was in harmony with the costume drama, and was nicknamed "Zhang Soping" by fans because of his scalp and great light. Liu Shishi and Chen Weiting in "Drunk Linglong", Zhang Zhen Ni Ni in "Chenxi Yuan", Zhu Yawen and Tang Wei in "Daming Fenghua" have not escaped this catastrophe, and they have left behind difficult to evaluate the ancient costume makeup.
Zhang Shuping's aesthetics are not traceless, looking back at "Green Snake" and "Six-Fingered Love Demon", in fact, Wang Zuxian and Lin Qingxia's hairstyles are also combed back tightly, but they are peerless beauties after all. The era of modeling relying on people has come to an end, and what is needed now is that people rely on modeling support.
Like Zhang Shuping, Chen Minzheng and Chen Tongxun are also award-winning senior film and television makeup artists. The two teachers have also created a lot of good achievements, and they have also collaborated together on "The Legend of Zhen Huan" and "The Pleiades of the Sky", both of which are still the ceilings of Qing court dramas, recording the highlight moments of many actresses.
Chen Minzheng has also maintained a cooperative relationship with Zhang Yimou for many years, and has contributed stunning looks in "Shadow" and "On the Cliff", and has mastered the splashing of ink and the cold and silent wind in place. In terms of costume dramas, "The Legend of the Condor Heroes" (2017 version) is also considered to be highly complete, and the blue and white costumes of "Tong Ronger" are impressive.
But Chen Minzheng also had moments of abnormality: "Martial God Zhao Zilong", "Hua Xu Yin", and "New Smile and Proud Jianghu" The colorful studio style makes people unable to complain.
Chen Tongxun is suitable for costume dramas with a strong sense of landing: he created the Tang Dynasty of "The Legend of the Demon Cat" under the control of Chen Kaige, whether it is Zhang Rongrong, Zhang Yuqi, Liu Haoran or Ou Hao, they all left a classic look in the movie.
"The Alliance of Military Divisions", "Celebrating More Than Years" and "Chen Qing Ling" use a lot of leather shoulders, corseted vests, and hard belts, and the male actors are very energetic, compared to the actresses' makeup. "Chen Qing Ling" also specially designed different theme colors for different families, purple mysterious, white elegant, black dark, golden rich, in line with the character characteristics, it can be seen that a lot of thought has been put into it.
Chen Tongxun's latest works are "Sauvignon Blanc" and "Nian Wushuang", perhaps because of the difference in funding, the texture of the two dramas is quite different. In "Sauvignon Blanc", Yang Zi, Zhang Wanyi, Tan Jianci, and Deng Wei each have their own makeup, while Tang Yan and Liu Xueyi in "Nian Wushuang" have caused fans to defend their rights because of their "too plain look".
Like Zhang Shuping, he is from Hong Kong, as well as senior stylist Zeng Minghui, whose early masterpieces are "The True Story of A Fei", "Happy Events in the Family" and "He Rijun Comes Again". After the turn of the millennium, the focus of work shifted to the mainland, and the more famous works are "Palace Lock Heart Jade", "Beauty in the World" and "Ancient Sword Strange Tan".
In recent years, there have been several works out of the circle, such as "Youth Song Xing" and "Long Moon Embers" have received a lot of praise. In Zeng Minghui and Han Guangren's "Youth Song Xing", Li Hongyi's extravagant fur collar, Ao Ruipeng's juvenile red suit, and Liu Xueyi's platinum robe are all in line with the character's personality and play the icing on the cake.
When it comes to Han Guangren, we can't fail to mention "Mountains and Rivers Order", the shape he designed for Wen Kexing magnifies Gong Jun's body advantage and creates the unparalleled character beauty of Gongzi.
"Long Moon Embers", which is out of the circle with Dunhuang aesthetic style, is the product of the collaboration between Zeng Minghui and Huang Wei, the former is responsible for combing, and the latter is responsible for clothing. The art team has been to Dunhuang many times to collect style, and has been inspired by the simple, elegant and charming Dunhuang murals.
In addition to Huang Wei, Yi Xiaoya and Tan Limin are all representative figures among the female stylists, and their general advantages are: they are very creative and good at women's makeup.
Huang Wei, who has a high volume and high yield, in addition to "Long Moon Embers", also has "The Story of Shepherd Clouds on the Sea", "Zhou Shengru", "Menghualu", "Protecting the Heart", "Cloud Feather" and so on.
Zhang Junning's first emperor Bai Yueguang's costume and Wen Yongshan's mysterious woman's costume in "The Legend of Shepherd Clouds on the Sea" are eye-catching, and in the sequence of the costume works of the two actresses, they are definitely very high in the United States.
The white deer in "Zhou Shengru" is pure and tenacious, Liu Yifei and Lin Yun and Liu Yan in "Menghualu" have their own styles, and Lu Yuxiao in "Cloud Feather" has caused imitation makeup.
Before "Protecting the Heart", Hou Minghao and Wang Yilun also acted in some costume dramas, but no one counted them as "ancient puppet beautiful men"; Whether it is a landing costume or a fantasy ancient puppet, Huang Wei can help the actor "grow and grow".
Yi Xiaoya's comfort zone is a fantasy ancient puppet, because her style is more ingenious and aura. "Canglan Jue" made Wang Hedi a snow and the shame of "Yulong", let Zhang Linghe come into the public eye, and also made Yi Xiaoya famous. The Moon Clan has the noble and domineering spirit of the Moon Clan, the fairy world has the delicate dust of the fairy world, and the differentiated makeup makes the character's personality more distinct.
"Seven O'clock Auspicious" and "Fox Demon Little Red Lady Moon Red Chapter" sparked heated discussions in the Reuters stage, and Yi Xiaoya's design was smart and jumpy, drawing inspiration from puppet shows and animation, achieving an organic fusion of tradition and innovation.
Tan Limin's works are not many, but they are expensive. A "East Palace" is unforgettable, Xiao Feng's innocent and enthusiastic Xizhou princess makeup and Li Chengyin's dark belly and luxurious deep palace prince makeup are still the best ancient costumes of the two leading actors Peng Xiaoran and Chen Xingxu.
Last year's hit drama "Ancient Lovesickness" was also made by her, although it is a small-budget drama, Lu Kite is meticulous in her makeup from 18 to 36 years old, from a girl to a "demon queen".
In addition, there are two high-prolific new stylists Fang Sizhe and Ai Wen, which are worth paying attention to.
Fang Sizhe's representative works are "Long Song Xing", "Lotus Building", "Qingqing Daily", etc., with a more dignified and atmospheric style, and he is good at landing costume dramas. Wu Lei's Ashler Falcon skin, Zhao Lusi's Le Yan skin, Cheng Yi and Zeng Shunxi's Li Lianhua and Fang Duo's diseased skin, and Tian Xiwei's Li Wei skin are all highly praised in terms of makeup.
Of course, occasionally stumbles, such as "Let's Try the World", plain and elegant is elegant, but the shape is not very suitable for the male and female protagonists.
Ai Wen did a lot of modern dramas in the early days, "Ode to Joy", "I Am Yu Huanshui" and "You Are My Glory", in terms of makeup, the effect is good. But when the battlefield switched to costume dramas, there was an obvious lack of adaptation, "Yulong" and "An Le Biography" belong to the extent that fans can't cut off Anlitu, and "Scorching Romance" can only be regarded as decent.
However, his upcoming dramas "Bending the Waist" and "Lovesick Order" are selling very well, and the makeup in the trailer is also full of atmosphere, and he may be able to win back a game.
The costume drama that focuses on relaxation is "ice cream for the eyes", and the audience certainly wants to see makeup with visual beauty.
However, whether the makeup is good or not is related to the designers' intentions, the adequacy or shortage of funds, the level of the apprentices of the makeup artist team, and the aesthetics and intervention of the director team.
There are a lot of costume dramas to be broadcast in 2024, and we are also looking forward to seeing some new works that are friendly to the eyes.
lemon