Pharaoh
Pharaoh
Regarding the black yarn hat, the explanation in the "Cihai" is: "A hat made of black yarn."
It was originally a hat hat, and it was determined to be an official hat in the Ming Dynasty, which also refers to an official position. "In the Ming Dynasty, the black gauze hat and the round-necked robe, the belt and the black boots formed the regular clothes of civil and military officials to meet and see things, and the frequent wearing of the black gauze hat made the black gauze hat and the officials draw an equal sign.
The attribute of the official hat of the black gauze hat has gradually evolved into a synonym for officials and official positions, which has been passed down to this day.
We will focus on the black gauze hat and analyze its origin, form, and decorative arts.
Take a look at the actual production and wearing scenes of the black gauze hat in the Ming Dynasty, and analyze the role and symbolic significance of the black gauze hat in different eras and regions.
1. The origin of the black yarn hat and the establishment of the black yarn official hat in the Ming Dynasty
(1) The origin and development of the black gauze hat
The black gauze hat is a hat style with the identity of the Ming Dynasty officials, and Ye Mengzhu's "Reading the World" in the early Qing Dynasty recorded: "The official uniform of the former dynasty is a black gauze hat, a round-necked robe, a belt, and soap boots."
The yarn hat is low in front and high in the back, with a wing on each side, and the whole body is round, and the net scarf is applied to tie the hair, so there is no distinction between high and low, public and private clothes. But it was not created out of thin air by the Ming Dynasty, it was Ming Taizu who "restored the ceremonial Xi of traditional Chinese clothing."
And it was popularized, so it also had a long evolutionary process before the Ming Dynasty.
The origin and development of the black yarn hat From the name point of view, the hats made of black yarn can be named "black yarn hat".
Therefore, there have been many black gauze hats with the same name before and after history. As early as the Liu and Song dynasties of the Southern Dynasty, Wang Xiuren made a black gauze hat with a hat skirt.
"Book of Song" contains: "At the beginning of the Ming Emperor, Situ Jian'an Wang Xiuren unified the army with ochre, made black gauze hats, and reversed hat skirts, which the folk called 'Situ-like', and Jingyi was still in good shape. ”
During the Sui and Tang dynasties, a kind of black gauze hat that everyone could wear appeared. "Book of Sui" contains: "At the beginning of the emperor's reign, Gaozu often wore black gauze hats, from the court to the nobles, as for the redundant officials through the court. ”
The "black gauze hat" in the volume of "Notes on Ancient and Modern China": "In November of the ninth year of Wude, Taizong said, 'From now on, the Son of Heaven will wear my black gauze hat, and all officials and soldiers will obey it together'. ”
From the Sui Dynasty to the Middle Tang Dynasty, the black gauze hat was once very popular, and Bai Juyi used "to wear a black gauze hat and wear a white cloth fur" to portray the celebrities at that time;
But the black gauze hat was soon replaced by a folded scarf, "Old Tang Book" contains: "Its black gauze hat gradually abolished, the noble and lowly clothes folded on the scarf, and its system was made by Emperor Wu of Zhou Dynasty Jiande Nian." ”
After the Tang Dynasty, the "black gauze hat" rarely appeared in the official clothing system. From the perspective of modeling and craftsmanship, the black gauze hat of the Ming Dynasty has a close relationship with the head.
Gao Chunming's "Examination of Chinese Costumes and Famous Objects", Sun Ji's "Chinese Ancient Public Opinion Clothing Series" and other works all mention the Ming Dynasty black yarn hat in the evolution part of the head, and believe that the black yarn hat is the last and most mature variant of the head.
The head of the sapon, born in the Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties, is made of a three-foot square soap, and the four corners of the soap are lengthened into a ribbon, so the head is also known as "four legs".
The first two feet are knotted at the back of the head, and the back two feet are bent upwards and attached to the top, and the forehead is tied with a knot, so the head is also called "folding the scarf". The widespread popularity of the head in the Sui and Tang dynasties made it change from a "towel" to a "hat".
First of all, in order to make the head stiff and shapely, and easy to wrap, the padding that is buckled on the bun under the head is produced—the scarf (also known as Shanzi).
Not only the main part of the head was gradually shaped, but the sagging feet at the back also began to be lined with iron wire, copper wire, bamboo wire and other hard wires, and by the fifth generation, the shape of the two feet began to change.
Shen Kuo's "Mengxi Writings" also classified the Song Dynasty heads according to the shape of the feet: "The heads of this dynasty have straight feet, local feet, crossed feet, Chaotian, and Shunfeng Fan, but the straight feet are expensive and lowly to obey." ”
"History of the Song Dynasty" contains: "The system of the national dynasty, the monarch and the minister are all obedient and flat, and they take advantage of public opinion or obey the upper Yan. At the beginning, it was lined with rattan grass towels, yarn as the surface, and painted with lacquer. Later, only the lacquer is strong, and the vine is gone. ”
The Song people called this kind of hard lacquer yarn head with square top and straight feet as "hat hat", which was used as a public uniform in the Ming Dynasty, and the shape of the black yarn hat in the Ming Dynasty was also shaped by the round foot hat wings.
Regarding the origin of the black yarn hat in the Ming Dynasty, this paper finds out the relationship between the black yarn hat and the hat head from the evolution of the hat from the Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties to the Song and Ming dynasties (see Table 1), so as to conclude that the black yarn hat is one of the variants of the hat.
(2) The establishment of the Ming Dynasty's black yarn official hat and its relationship with the Yishan crown
The black gauze hat worn by officials in the Ming Dynasty and the Yishan crown (i.e., black yarn folded scarf) worn by the royal family are not only of the same material, but also of the same setting.
Like the black yarn hat, the term "Yishan Guan" was not the first in the Ming Dynasty, Zhou Qi "Nominal Examination": "Tang Yishan Guan, Taizong adopted the ancient system to serve himself." Today, it is also known as the wing good crown, or the Tang system. ”
Tang Dynasty wing crown is also known as the crown of the sky, the crown worn by the emperor when he often wears, the Ming Dynasty was modified on the basis of the Tang Dynasty, Huang Yizheng's "Thing Bead" contains: "Cupola crown, Tang system, Jiaotian crown to turn the foot to intersect on the top.
The national dynasty, change the foot does not hand forward, its crown is like a good word, the name is good. In terms of shape, the wing crown and the black gauze hat are basically the same except for the different directions of the hat wings (Fig. 1).
2. The structure, material characteristics and shape evolution of the black gauze hat in the Ming Dynasty
During the use of the black gauze hat in the Ming Dynasty for more than 270 years, the perfect internal structure remained basically unchanged, while the external shape continued to evolve with the changes in social aesthetics.
(1) The structure and material characteristics of the black gauze hat in the Ming Dynasty
The main body of the black gauze hat is composed of two parts, low in the front and high in the back, called the front house and the back mountain, which is in the shape of two steps.
The junction between the front house and the back hill is decorated with horizontal strips, and the middle of the back hill is decorated with vertical strips. According to "Cloud Notes": "When Yu Shi was all alive, he saw his peers wearing bridge velvet scarves, and Chunyuan wearing gold scarves. ”
Jia Xizeng proposed that the inlay in front of the house and the mountain behind the black gauze hat can be called a "bridge", and the inlay in the center of the back mountain is called a "beam". There are various styles of "beams", including one straight line, two straight lines, and Y-shaped.
The intersection of the "bridge" and "beam" is sometimes decorated with knots. There are two wings at the bottom of the back mountain, which are fixed in the fins (Figure 2).
The production of black yarn hats in the Ming Dynasty is very exquisite, and there is a song "Laurel Ling, Crown Hat Shop" singing: "Narrow than wide, light paint and slow branding, is cutting obliquely." The black gauze hat adds light color, and light tires should be used in the soap head."
As for the relationship between the external shape and the internal structure of the black gauze hat, we take the two black gauze hats of the Ming Dynasty collected by the famous clothing collector Mr. Li Yulai as an example (Fig. 3):
Judging from the state of existence, the collection is deformed due to the lack of support of the hard hat tire, but the front house and the back mountain made of black yarn are still clearly recognizable, and the two decorations of "bridge" and "beam" are also available.
There is no structure of the hat wings and the fixed hat wings, but both of them have traces of the presence of hat wings at the bottom of the back mountain.
The outer black yarn is loose, and the black yarn on the left and right sides is separated from the hat body most seriously because it is far away from the "bridge", "beam" and the hat mouth, showing a warped state, so the multi-level structure of the black yarn can be clearly seen.
In terms of material, according to other fragments in the cap, it can be seen that the original woven bamboo mesh hat tire that plays a supporting role inside. From the inside to the outside, there are large-hole hexagonal woven bamboo strips, small-hole square-woven bamboo strips, warp twisted fabrics, and plain crepe yarn (Fig. 4).
Among them, the two layers of bamboo strips are glued together by black lacquer, which is a hard structure, and the black lacquer peels off to reveal extremely thin bamboo pieces.
The outer two layers of light black fabric fade and turn yellow.
In terms of technology, in addition to the "bridge", "beam" and the lower edge of the stitching traces, the large pieces of fabric are all seamless whole pieces, which shows that the three-dimensional and full shape of the black yarn hat does not need to be cut precisely, and it is all supported by the internal hard bamboo strip structure.
The lower mouth of the hat is stitched to fix the two layers of yarn neatly, and the stitches are small and closely arranged to form a neat and delicate stitch.
The raw edges of the fabric are wrapped with black lacquer under the stitches to prevent them from being exposed, and the lower edge of the wrapping is in the shape of a black and shiny circle. The lower edge of the lacquer ring is dislodged and cracked due to the lack of cap tire support, and the bamboo inner wrapped in the black lacquer can be seen from the fractured surface.
The pair of fins on the black gauze hat are extremely perishable and difficult to preserve with the body of the hat, because there are only two layers of tulle on the wings.
It is worth noting the moiré pattern produced by the overlapping of two layers of tulle (fig. 5), which can also be found on clothes of the same material, which Liu Ruoyu described in his Chronicles of the Month as "like the waves of water, like the gift of wood".
The two wings are inserted flat into the wing tube behind the cap to connect the two wings, which is a distinctive feature of the black gauze hat that distinguishes it from other first clothes.
(2) The shape of the black gauze hat in the Ming Dynasty
In the Ming generation, the shape of the black gauze hat is not static, and on the whole, the evolution of the shape of the black gauze hat is a process from short to tall, from round to square.
During the Hongwu period, the "black yarn short crown", and the front house and the back mountain of the black yarn hat are low and the outline is soft semicircular, and in the middle of the year, the atmosphere changes greatly.
The mountain behind the front house becomes taller, the hat is tall and long, and the outer contour has obvious corners, the hat body gradually changes from a circle to a square, and the direction of the hat wings gradually widens from a narrow oval facing down to a rounded square placed horizontally.
When Zhengde, Shangshu Wang Chang of the Ministry of War said, "The gauze hat is made of a high top, the boots are made of a high bottom, and the public is used to carry it highly, and people call it 'Mr. Sangao'".
This trend can be confirmed in the size data of black yarn hats unearthed in Table 2, from Yang Pu to Pan Yunzheng, the height of the black yarn hats unearthed from the tomb of officials increased by 10.5 cm from 15 cm to 25.5 cm.
During the Jiajing period, some changes were made to the wings of the black gauze hat: not only the length of the wings was shortened, but also its width was different, the larger the official rank, the narrower the wings of the gauze hat, and vice versa.
During the Apocalypse and Chongzhen periods, the height of the black gauze hat suddenly became shorter and returned to the height of the early Ming Dynasty. The comparison shows that the shape of the black gauze hat in the early stage is soft and low-key, and in the later stage, it becomes angular and imposing, and this evolution can be intuitively seen from the appearance of the official in Figure 6.
In addition, the change in the outline from circle to square in the actual picture in Table 2 is also consistent with that reflected in the portrait of the official. To a certain extent, this change in the shape of the black gauze hat also provides evidence for the discontinuation of the Ming Dynasty.
3. The decorative art of the black gauze hat in the Ming Dynasty
As a regular official uniform, the black gauze hat has a simple shape and a light material, which is very suitable for daily life and office wear. It is accompanied by a mesh towel that is lined under the hat and has functions such as binding hair and covering gray hair.
Due to the small variety of official hats in the Ming Dynasty, in order to meet the needs of different occasions, black gauze hats were attached with a variety of practical or decorative elements.
(1) The fur decoration of the black gauze hat
The officials of the Ming Dynasty entered the court on the fifth watch, and in winter, "several miles away, compared to the half-stiff", so they needed to add ear warmers to the black gauze hat to keep warm (Figure 7), and the "History of the Ming Dynasty" contained: "In November, 100 officials wore warm ears. ”
Ming Li Dongyang's poem "Returning to the Mausoleum, Hearing the Warm Ears, All the Princes Have Works, and Borrowing Five Songs from the Front Rhyme" cloud: "The black gauze scarf is cool, and the gentleman's grace is not resigned." The official mink was worn on the same day, and the hat was cold and the suburban horse was ridden. ”
It was also confirmed that ear warmers were fur decorations worn on black gauze hats, which were later removed due to the high cost of such decorations.
In addition to ear-warming decorations, there is also a shawl decoration on the black gauze hat in the Ming Dynasty, which is described in more detail in the "Chronicles of the Summer":
"The shawl, a circle made of mink, six or seven inches high, as large as a hat, two rectangular mink skins on both sides, the hair is inward to the ear, that is, it is hung diagonally on the mountain behind the official hat with a hook and strap. A comparison of the image of the Tang Dynasty literature (Fig. 8) shows its general shape.
(2) The hairpins, legs and drape decorations of the black gauze hat
The black gauze hat was originally an indiscriminate first dress for officials in the Ming Dynasty.
Therefore, in some special environments, non-everyday occasions or when it is necessary to mark a special status, changes or additional decorations will be made on the black gauze hat body or hat wings.
The two Song Dynasty were popular for sacrifices, festivals and court banquets, and the "imperial flowers" or "palace flowers" given by the emperor were inserted on the heads.
Called "hairpin belt", there are silk, Luo texture also has delicate dripping pink wisps of gold, is one of the means of the imperial court at that time to promote the peaceful and prosperous times, reflect the emperor's grace.
The Yuan Dynasty established after that, it was difficult to accept the phenomenon of men's hairpins, and the Ming and Qing dynasties only wore hairpins on very few special occasions.
"Daming Huidian" contains: "Give the champion and the Jinshi banquet in the Ministry of Rites, and order a member of the minister to wait for the banquet, and read the scroll, the deacon and other officials are all predetermined." Jinshi and each official are hairpin flowers, the flower is cut ribbon for it, there is a bronze medal on it, and the word "grace banquet" is added.
However, the hairpin of the champion, the branches and leaves are silver, decorated with green feathers, and its brand is smeared with silver and gold. ”
In addition to the hairpin ceremony of the grace banquet on the second day of the palace test, the men of the Ming Dynasty also had a chance to "wear red hairpins" - officials wore auspicious clothes at weddings.
That is, the black gauze hat and the big red round neck, the black gauze hat is inserted with a golden flower on the left and right, and the people can also wear the hairpin flower of the nine-grade official hat and black gauze hat at the wedding.
"History of the Ming Dynasty" contains: "Jinshi scarf is like a black gauze hat, the top is slightly flat, the angle is more than an inch wide, five inches long, tied with a hanging belt, soap yarn for it...... After the court examination, it was awarded to the Guozijian and passed on to the day. ”
After the above thanksgiving, the ancestor finished the food ceremony, and the first easy to wear, and his robe was still sent to the country for storage. "The crown shape of the Ming Dynasty Jinshi dress is a combination of two clothing systems: official clothes and regular clothes. ”
That is, the hat body of the regular black gauze hat was used, and the rounded hat wings on both sides of the original gauze hat were replaced with more than an inch wide on both sides of the official clothing head, and a five-inch long hanging belt was added to form a special Jinshi crown of the combination of the official clothing hat and the regular clothing yarn hat.
From Figure 9 "Ming Zhuangyuan Diagram Examination", we can see the changes in foot display and decoration.
Fourth, the symbols and symbolic meanings of the black gauze hat
In the Ming Dynasty and the Ming Dynasty and the two periods after the Ming Dynasty, the Ming Dynasty and the vassal countries, the black gauze hat was born with different symbolic meanings due to the inconsistency of time and space background, and gradually became a symbol.
(1) The black gauze hat in the Ming Dynasty - a symbol of social status and power
In the twenty-fourth year of Hongwu, the old man and the servant, the idle official, allowed to use the gauze hat belt, if the matter is deposed, the service is the same as the common people, and the official hat attribute of the black gauze hat is determined.
In addition, there are some special groups that can also get the opportunity to wear black yarn hats under certain conditions.
Feng Menglong's "Talking about the Yin of Zhongguan" contains: "The eunuch Gu Dayong welcomes the sky, and he is tyrannical. When the officials receive them, they must first ask, "Where did you get your hat?"
Yiling was slightly unconcerned. Dayong asked as before, and Ling said: "My gauze hat was bought for three dollars and five cents of silver in front of the Ten Princes' Mansion!" Gu Da used a black gauze hat to allude to his manipulation of the official position, and Ling cleverly avoided the topic.
Feng Weimin, a famous lyricist in the Jiajing period, Xiaoling's "Qingjiang Yin: Eight Uses" uses the symbolic meaning of eight official supplies headed by black gauze hats to express his views on officialdom
"The black gauze hat is full of robberies in the capital every day, all of them are not on the virtuous and foolish, the new people replace the old people, the back waves urge the front waves, who is who has to be said. ”
The feudal society with a strict hierarchical system made the black yarn hat attach the symbolic meaning of status and power recognized by the society on the basis of practical meaning. This kind of cognition has a broad social base and is therefore tenacious, so much so that the black gauze hat, a word with obvious referential characteristics, has been used beyond the scope of officialdom and has continued to be used for a long time.
(2) The black gauze hat is synonymous with officials and official power in later generations
In the Qing Dynasty, after shaving hair and changing clothes, the black gauze hat disappeared from the officialdom as the form of the first uniform, and the red tasseled hat with "wearing a flower feather" was used as the official hat, and the official grade was distinguished by the top material.
However, the symbolism of the black gauze hat did not change due to social changes, the demise of the Ming Dynasty, and the cessation of its use.
On the one hand, as a linguistic symbol, the black gauze hat is widely used in everyday language and various literary works. In the early Qing Dynasty, the first episode of the novel "Jade Jiao Pear" by the people of the Qing Dynasty reads: "It's just that each has its own reasons, so I love it, and I can't give up this black gauze hat ear." ”
Zheng Banqiao's widely circulated farewell poem "Farewell to the Return, Painting Bamboo Farewell to the Gentlemen of Wei County": "The black yarn is not an official, and the sleeves of Xiao Xiao are cold. ”
depicts his determination not to be in the same stream in the officialdom; Yan Tingzhong's "Double Tone, Intoxicated East Wind" contains: "The strange appearance of black boots and gauze hats, ugly description of the hand-style official robe. The sound of snorting, the appearance of the dear, how to hide the wife and children know. ”
all kinds of cognacy and distorted human nature of deriding officials...... It can be seen that the "black gauze hat" in Qing Dynasty literary works is mostly derogatory and used for ridicule.
Language allows the old symbols to be perpetuated and the new ones to form an increasingly rich symbolic system. Even if later generations do not understand the form of the black yarn hat, they can directly learn the meaning of official power contained in the "black yarn hat" through words.
To this day, people are still Xi using "black hat" as a synonym for official positions, and "losing black hat" means being dismissed.
On the other hand, the black gauze hat, which is an entity, is left on the opera stage after transformation.
In the Qing Dynasty, "prostitution and excellent disobedience" made the costumes on the stage of the opera continue the Han tradition, and there are officials wearing black gauze hats in Peking Opera, Yue Opera, Henan Opera, and Kunqu Opera.
However, the black gauze hat has also undergone a lot of dramatic treatments, such as adding decorations such as the hat front, metal and even dotted emeralds.
(3) The symbol of the black gauze hat to other countries - subject countries
The number of vassal states of the Ming Dynasty was as high as more than 100, including Korea, Japan, Ryukyu, Annam, Chenla, Siam, Champang, Java, Sulu, Manraka, Ceylon, Luzon and so on.
These countries paid tribute every year, coming to the dynasty year after year, in order to seek the protection of China. The Ming court awarded them finished crowns or allowed them to make them in their own country to imitate the Ming dynasty system.
The imitation of the regular attire of officials includes the black gauze hat. It is a cult imitation that symbolizes the recognition of the suzerain's own country.
For example, in the twentieth year of Hongwu, Goryeo envoy Wei longevity went to Beijing to "ask for a crown", and Ming Taizu met the requirements of Goryeo to emulate the Ming Dynasty's clothes, and also gave a longevity Ming Dynasty official clothes, "the longevity of the emperor gave the yarn hat group collar, and the people began to know the system of crown clothes."
In the tenth year of Orthodoxy, "the envoy of the mountain kingdom of Ceylon, Jeba Thorn Mo's ria, begged for a hat and a belt of gold, and from there." ”
"The Edict of the Wanli Emperor" contains: "Feng Erping Hideyoshi is the king of Japan, and the tin is sealed with gold and crowned. Among the crowns and robes given was a black gauze hat.
During the Joseon Dynasty, the Ming Dynasty also gave him great preferential treatment, and allowed him to use the Chinese crown and uniform system as the country of the monarch.
The poet Xu Juzheng of the Li Dynasty once said that Korea "is a state of China, so the successive dynasties have been close to China, and they have been knighted, the tributes are endless, there is no shortage of etiquette, and the system of clothing and crown is the same as that of all generations of China."
A black gauze hat (fig. 10) included in the book "The Crown Hat of the Joseon Dynasty" is 18.5 cm in diameter and 29 cm in height, and the body of the hat is made of bamboo strips and paper and covered with black cloth.
However, after the black gauze hat was introduced to Japan, it underwent a great degree of transformation, such as imitating the structure of the black gauze hat to make a Tang crown (dou i.e., helmet), which was mainly popular from Azuchi-Momoyama to the early Edo period (late Ming Dynasty) (Fig. 11).
Figure 12 shows the Tang crown-shaped pocket from the Momoyama period, which is currently in the Sanada Treasure Museum in Nagano Prefecture, and is very similar in shape to the black gauze hat, but the texture and decoration are quite different.
After the fall of the Ming Dynasty, "the regimental leader and the crown and other things were all attributed to the opera hall, and there was no old system...... A hundred years of land sinking, Chinese cultural relics are gone".
After the fall of the Qing Dynasty, the Qing rulers did not enforce the change of customs and ideological and cultural tyranny on it, but still regarded it as a foreigner.
Saying that "heaven and earth are unmoved, crowns and shoes are unmoving", Joseon was allowed to continue to retain its own customs and etiquette, and these vassal states still continued the Ming Dynasty dress system.
According to the Yan Xing Ji of the Korean envoy Xu Haoxiu, the dress of the envoy to Annam was roughly the same as that of the Joseon, "after the hair hung down, he wore a black gauze hat, a red robe with wide sleeves, a gold tortoiseshell belt and black leather boots." ”
Li Qian recorded in "Yan Xing Chronicle", "The Qing people are in clothes, and the generations are sorry for themselves, and I also laugh at them."
And if the group collar, black gauze hat, wide sleeves, and long clothes, Qu does not dare to laugh, although women and women, they will look down on and admire them...... Every time I talk to the generations and ask about the system of their clothes, the Han people are confused. ”
The Korean envoys proudly proclaimed themselves "Little China" and that China under the Qing government was the "State of Yidi".
For example, there are records of such costumes in the paintings of the Western Regions of Pingding (fig. 13) and "The Coming of All Kingdoms" (fig. 14).
As can be seen from the photographs in Figure 15, in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, officials in Korea and the Nguyen Dynasty (Vietnam) still wore black gauze hats, but the shape and decoration had changed according to the national aesthetics.
It is undeniable that in addition to political factors, the Ming Dynasty's service has played a role in spreading and continuing clothing culture under certain conditions from the perspective of long-term historical process.