Pharaoh
Pharaoh
First, the shape of the cloak
The shape of the cloak has been clarified, which proves that it is not a sleeveless garment draped over the shoulders as it is literally understood today, but an inherited evolution of the Song and Yuan Dynasty jackets in the Ming Dynasty, but to this day except for those who have studied it specifically.
There are still many scholars who take the cloak literally, confusing it with a "cloak".
The meaning of the word "cloak" Mr. Zhou Xibao mentioned it in the "History of Ancient Chinese Costumes" when introducing the costumes of Han women in the Qing Dynasty: "A buckle bell is also called 'a buckle heart' or 'puffy clothes', that is, a cloak, and men also have a cloak." ”
According to verification, the names of "one buckle bell" and "one wrapped round" come from the sixth volume of the "Heilongjiang Foreign Records" of the Western Qing Dynasty in the Qing Dynasty: "Officials also use a bell in official clothes...... A bell, Manchuria is called Huhuba, and there is no open robe.
Also known as a wrap round. It is clearly stated that this type of garment is in the form of an "unopened robe", that is, a robe without a slit at the hem, and when worn, it is contoured like a bell.
According to Zhou Xibao's point of view, this clothing and cloak are the same thing, and the reason for this Mr. Zhou did not explain, and the author did not find any textual evidence that can directly support this view, but the appearance rate of "cloak" in Ming and Qing novels is very high.
Second, the cloak is worn
In many novels of the Ming and Qing dynasties, the cloak is worn without the word "phi": in the 49th chapter of "Dream of Red Mansions", it is written: "As I was talking, I saw Baoqin coming, wearing a cloak with a collar, resplendent and brilliant, I don't know what it was." ”
In the 120th episode, "Jia Zheng...... When I looked up, I suddenly saw a person in the faint snow shadow on the bow of the boat, bareheaded, barefoot, and wearing a cloak pulled by a red orangutan, bowing down to Jia Zheng. ”
There is also the 49th "Seeing that Tanchun is coming from Qiushuangzhai, surrounded by a big red gorilla felt cloak, wearing a Guanyin pocket, holding a little girl, and a woman behind her is holding a green oil umbrella." ”
The 50th episode "I saw Jia Mu from a distance wrapped in a big cloak, with a gray squirrel warm pocket, sitting in a small bamboo sedan chair, and holding a green net oil umbrella. From the descriptions of "draped" and "circumferred", it can be determined that the cloak was sleeveless and not worn with a pullover.
It should be draped over the shoulders with buttons or straps, and some have a hood attached. And because of the thirty-sixth chapter of "Journey to the West", "The elder lost his tin staff, took off his cloak, put his clothes together, and went into the mountain gate." ”
A word "solution" can be seen that the cloak is tied with a tie in front. Combined with the accompanying picture of the Dream of the Red Chamber by Sun Wen in the Qing Dynasty (see Fig. 19) and the actual cloak left over from the Qing Dynasty (Fig. 20).
All of them show the shape of the cloak: sleeveless, draped over the shoulders, tied around the neck with a tie, with no slits at the bottom, and the hem hangs down just enough to cover the wearer's body in a shape like a bell or a semicircle.
It can be seen that Mr. Zhou Xibao's view that "a bell" and "a circle" are cloaks should be correct, at least the two are very similar in shape, both are sleeveless draped covers to protect against the cold and wind, which is completely different from the shape of the "cloak" described in this article.
Moreover, Mr. Zhou Xibao also pointed out in the "History of Ancient Chinese Costumes" that the "false bell" of clothing in the Southern Dynasties period was the source of what later generations called "a bell", that is, "cloak".
3. Dynasties that emerged
In this way, the cloak has appeared in the Northern and Southern Dynasties period, and the history is relatively long, which proves that it and the cloak that later originated from the Song and Yuan dynasties are completely different kinds of clothing.
The real resemblance to the shape of the Ming Dynasty cloak is the "big shirt" or "big sleeve shirt" (see Figure 21), both of which were profoundly influenced by the big sleeves of the Tang and Song dynasties.
Earlier, the author briefly introduced that the big sleeve originated in the Tang Dynasty, prevailed in the Five Dynasties and Two Song Dynasties, and was revived in the Ming Dynasty.
The Ming Dynasty coat (big sleeve shirt) can be said to be a continuation of the Tang and Song Dynasty big sleeves, and it appeared in the portraits of the Ming Dynasty queens as regular clothes with the Xia Wei (except for the first Queen Ma) until the fall of the Ming Dynasty.
For the first time in the brick carvings of the tomb of Feng Hui of the Five Dynasties, the lower end of the large-sleeved collar is combined with a tie, and the queen of the "Song Xuanzu Sitting Portrait Scroll" also has a tie under the collar, which is not difficult to understand why the coat and cloak collar of the Ming Dynasty are decorated with buttons or ties.
Judging from the textual description, the Ming Dynasty coat (large-sleeved shirt) seems to be exactly the same as the shape of the cloak, both are plackets, tile collars, and buttons or ties under the collar.
Slits on both sides, wide sleeves, and cinched waists, but the two are indeed called differently, and the author summarizes two reasons: first, they are used by different people and occasions.
The term "coat or shirt with large sleeves" is only used in the crown dress of the wive, which is worn on more formal ceremonial occasions.
Fourth, the crowd wearing the cloak
The cloak was worn by a much wider audience, from nobles and princes to prostitutes and prostitutes, as reflected in paintings and novels of the late Ming Dynasty.
For example, in the first episode of "The Legend of Marriage in the Awakening World", Chao Dashe said to Brother Zhen: "You find out the stone blue sprinkling cloak tomorrow, and then take out a silver red thread to make it, and ask Chen Tailor to make it, and it will be easy to wear that day." ”
Another example is "Xingshi Hengyan: Wu Yanei's Neighbor Boat Goes to the Appointment", in which Mrs. He instructed her daughter, "If it is not good, teach the maid to find a cloak and wear it with him." ”
Brother Zhen is a prostitute, and Miss He is the daughter of an official eunuch, their identities are very different, but they can both wear cloaks, which shows that the cloak is suitable for a wide range of classes.
It is precisely because the function and application of the cloak are similar to those of the Song Dynasty gown, which is a popular style that can be worn on ordinary occasions, so whether it is a general history of clothing books or research papers, the cloak is classified as a gown rather than a subsequent evolution of the big sleeve.
Second, they don't have exactly the same sleeve shape. Whether it is the overcoat in the portrait of the queens of the Ming Dynasty, or the only overcoat unearthed from the tomb of Wu, the wife of King Ningjing in Nanchang (see Figure 22).
Its large-sleeved characteristics are very obvious, all of which are in the form of a drooping cloth bag, which is also the embodiment of the coat inheriting the nature of the large-sleeved dress of the Tang and Song dynasties.
Although the sleeves of the cloak are wider than the sleeves of the jacket, it seems that the width of the sleeves varies greatly, and the sleeve shapes are different, so they can be roughly divided into two types.
First, for example, the Ming Dynasty flower and bird cloak in the Confucian Mansion (see fig. 23) and the cloak in this Ming Dynasty Portrait of a Woman (fig. 24), as well as the cloak painted in Zhu's Shunshui Tanqi, have sleeves similar to those of a large coat, both in the shape of a drooping cloth bag.
The large sleeves are distinctively featured.
The second type is the cloak in the late Ming Dynasty painter Chen Hongshou's "Lady Holding a Fan" and the cloak in this seated portrait of a woman from the Wanli period (fig. 25).
It is closer to the cloak painted in the "Three Talents Picture Society", with straight sleeves and narrower sleeves than the previous one.
The reason why the cape is more varied in terms of sleeve shape may be to adapt to the needs of different occasions, or it may be a change with the change of social environment.
Yu Yonglin, a native of the Ming Jiawan period, has a cloud in "North Window Trivia": "Taizu made the people's customs and uniforms...... Subsequently, the people became more convenient, although the scholars also used it more, and used the scarf as a ceremonial garment...... There is still a simple style.
In the ....... women's whole body, full clothes with large sleeves, and customs changed greatly. The old folk song cloud: ......'The butterfly flies at the feet, and the clouds rise up the woman...... One is strange, the square scarf is worn diagonally.
The second is strange, the two sleeves are like cloth bags...... 'The people who are polite are painful, and they are advised to be in the court, so there is a strange prohibition of chapter clothes. ”
He pointed out that the social clothing fashion in the late Ming Dynasty had undergone great changes compared with the early Ming Dynasty, and it was no longer simple, and tended to be exaggerated and weird, and the cloak worn by women became wider, covering the whole body, and the sleeves were large like two cloth bags, which was considered a strange atmosphere by the people of the time.
In the middle and late Ming Dynasty, the commercial culture flourished, the etiquette system gradually relaxed, the social atmosphere gradually became extravagant, people ate and wore a lot of arrogance, and the development of clothing also tended to be complex and luxurious, and the imitation of the upper class was on par.
"Two sleeves like a cloth bag" is exactly in line with the first sleeve type of cloak mentioned by the author, which obviously borrowed the sleeve shape of the life woman's coat, and became a clothing trend among women in the late Ming Dynasty.
From the above, we can conclude that the basic shape of the coat and the cape are similar, the names are different due to the different people and functional levels, and the details of the sleeves are also different, but in general, the two belong to the same type of cardigan.
The cape is considered a popular low-profile version of the overcoat, and it can also be said that the overcoat is a special high-end cape.