<h1 class="pgc-h-arrow-right" data-track="1" > please click "Follow" in the upper right corner to obtain art knowledge every day (attention: baokuchina).</h1>
Yu Zheng's new drama "Yulou Spring" has started broadcasting in a low key!
For costume dramas, the meticulous and age-appropriate costumes will render the atmosphere of the entire film, the old rules, let's take a magnifying glass together to see if this crew has sincerity.
The background of the entire play was officially set to be the Longqing period of the Ming Dynasty, so the clothing and props made a lot of references to the cultural relics, documentary materials, ancient paintings, etc. of the Ming Dynasty, but this was not the case.
This is just another trick of Yu Zheng to tell the story of the Qing Dynasty with the shell of other dynasties.
<h1 class="pgc-h-arrow-right" data-track="6" > people by clothing</h1>
Regarding this drama, the most discussed is the "Ming Hanfu", which is indeed the most thoughtful place for the crew.
It is said that the "Yulou Chun" crew specially produced nearly 2,000 sets of costumes, including but not limited to long shirts, half sleeves, pipa sleeves, bijia, horse-faced skirts, etc.; and there are many pure handmade costumes with extremely complex processes and processes such as "Hundred Zi Clothes" and "Cloud Shoulders".
In the play, Yoko Hot-Eyed wears a hundred-year-old clothes
Not only that, "Yulou Spring" will also integrate a variety of national intangible embroidery techniques such as velvet embroidery, Gu embroidery, sprinkled thread embroidery into the practice of character costumes, which makes people shine, no wonder the crew has specially spent time to make posters for Hanfu.
When the grandfather of the Sun Mansion celebrated his birthday, the lady and several daughters-in-law sat in Chinese costumes, and the female relatives present held a red hundred-child coat, but the difference between the red tone and brightness between the lady, the young grandmother and the aunt made a difference.
The female relatives wish for the birthday of Old Master Sun
In addition, at different stages of the character's life, there are corresponding changes in the design of the shape: during the heroine's Hundred Opera Class, her costumes are mostly ordinary linen fabrics, embellished with exquisite embroidery; when married into the Sun Mansion of a large family, the shape is a unique cloak, pleats, and pleated skirts of the Ming Dynasty.
Indeed, even people who do not know hanfu can see that the crew has worked the costumes.
However, while the crew strives to spread Hanfu culture to Chinese, it also "angers" Korean friends, and a large number of Korean netizens even clamor that this is Chinese stealing Korean costumes, Hanfu is a traditional Chinese costume, we all say tired!
"Yulou Chun" Korean network review
Good guys, Olympic athletes "anti-Japanese" at the Tokyo Olympic Games, netizens still have to "arrive in Korea" under the costume drama, Chinese this summer is really busy to die...
Although Brother Bao affirmed the efforts made by the crew in traditional costumes, some problems are easy to mislead the public if they are not pointed out.
The costumes in the play are very exquisite, but this time the problem arises, the right clothes are not worn on the right person, and the hot-eyed Yoko, who plays the grandmother in the play, wears the clothes of the big family.
In the middle is Yoko Spicy, who plays the grandmother in the play
In many costume dramas, in order to pursue the layering of clothing, the master will be folded to wear clothes, sleeveless vests on the outside of the dress, in fact, this way of wearing is actually the Ming Dynasty maid, that is, the dress of the maid, and the color of the big red and green is also the dressing fashion of the maid of the Ming Dynasty.
The shape of a maid in a Portrait of the Ming Dynasty
Not only in costume dramas, some Hanfu lovers in the park are basically dressed as handmaidens. This also shows that knowing some art can avoid a lot of unnecessary embarrassment.
Brother Bao warmly reminds that if you like embroidery, you should know that the carrier of embroidery is not limited to clothing, and embroidery decorative paintings can also reflect the owner's taste from the details.
Embroidered peony decorative painting Click on the picture for details
At first glance, it looks like a metal-wound peony flower, but it is actually a soft silk thread that shuttles under the embroidery methods such as pan gold embroidery and needle rolling embroidery.
<h1 class="pgc-h-arrow-right" data-track="21" > "first" and other major events</h1>
After talking about the costumes, let's take a look at the things that the crew did on the "head".
Previously, we introduced that the golden silk wing good crown is a funeral instrument worn only after death, and in this regard, the black crown worn by the man in the play is quite qualified.
Portrait of a Ming Dynasty emperor
<h1 class="pgc-h-arrow-right" data-track="24" > makeup and hair</h1>
The frequent appearance of the dí bun (also known as "Di Bun") in the play is far from the real Di Bun in history.
Di bun refers to a mesh hat made of hair or silver wire and gold wire, roughly speaking, it is a wig set used to facilitate the wearing of various gold and silver jewelry, and the hairpin jewelry inserted on the di bun is "head face".
Ming Dynasty various Di Buns
Please note that the focus of The Bun is woven, not the unskilled wig bag in costume dramas!!!
Another example is the "high bun" combed by the pipa master Yu Niangzi, which is to raise the sideburns, and the shape of this character refers to the ancient paintings of the Qing Dynasty.
Qing Yu Zhiding "Qiao Yuan's Three Good Pictures"
At present, in the play, only Yu Niangzi, who can play an instrument, is this style, and the crew should not judge that this hairstyle can only be combed by musicians according to "Qiao Yuan's Three Good Pictures"?
In the early Qing Dynasty, this was one of the fashionable hairstyles that was popular among women and was not unique to musicians.
In addition, in the play, the heads of Yao Dizhu and the princess are shaped, and the whiskers used to set beads are derived from a portrait of the Jiajing era.
The maid of the vermilion flower in the Portrait painting of the Ming Dynasty, collected by the Palace Museum
The maid in the Ming Dynasty portraits stored in the Forbidden City, with pink face and vermilion lips, is decorated with a pearl at the corner of the lips, chin and the corner of the corner of the two eyebrows, and there is a flower-shaped pearl green flower on the forehead, which is a popular "face flower" in the Ming Dynasty.
In addition, the forked bangs that appear in the play are very Qing Dynasty hairstyles, and in the ancient painting "Yan Sleep Pleasant Feelings", this kind of shape is simply not too much.
Qing Anon. Part of "Yan Sleep Pleasant Feeling"
<h1 class="pgc-h-arrow-right" data-track="34" > scarf</h1>
In the past, we only knew that ancient men had many bands of scarves, which were a kind of clothing that represented elegance.
In this play, we rarely see the shape of women wearing a scarf, the shape of the women's scarf is very beautiful, that is, the opera cloak on the shoulder is a bit redundant.
The lady wearing a scarf in the Ming Wanli figure painting
There are several situations in which women in the Ming Dynasty wear scarves: one is the Daogu costume, the other is to keep out the cold, this is mostly seen in the late Ming and Qing dynasty scripts, or it is not a courtyard (brothel) woman, the history books record that when Liu Ru visited Qian Qianyi, "the scarf bow shoes, wearing men's clothes, the look is spilled, there is a forest wind."
I have to say that women wear a scarf more heroically than men!
<h1 class="pgc-h-arrow-right" data-track="39" > entertainment pastime</h1>
In this drama, there are many Chinese literati who prefer the way of life - cooking tea, burning incense, red makeup, swings, flower arrangement, playing the piano, cooking wine, and playing games.
But Brother Bao focused on introducing tea tasting and leaf play.
<h1 class="pgc-h-arrow-right" data-track="42" > tea tasting</h1>
Many netizens commented under the official blog of the crew: "The tea set in the picture seems to be a bit simple, is the crew not enough funds?" ”
"Yulou Spring" tea tea poster
Here, Brother Bao took a private goods, strong Amway crew on the treasure house to purchase tea props, a group of Ru porcelain gourd tea utensils, good looking, Fulu Tianshou, custody no one said it was simple!
In addition, Brother Bao also has to say a fair word for the crew, not that the crew has insufficient funds, but that the Ming Dynasty tea set is so simple.
The Ming Dynasty was a key node in the transformation of tea drinking in Chinese history.
In the Tang and Song dynasties, people mainly drank cake tea, using the sencha method or the tea ordering method, in the Yuan Dynasty, strip loose tea has risen nationwide, and tea drinking has been directly brewed with boiling water.
The change in the way of drinking tea directly triggered the change of tea sets, and the hot tea, milled tea, Luo tea, and tea-boiling utensils in the Tang and Song dynasties became superfluous, and some new tea sets stood out.
Ming Wen Zheng Ming "Pin Ming Tu" part
From the existing Ming Dynasty ancient paintings, it can also be seen that most of the Ming Dynasty tea sets are simple, but there are also specific requirements, the same pay attention to the production method, specifications, pay attention to the texture, in the tea drinking utensils, the most prominent feature is the emergence of small teapots.
From the Ming Dynasty to the present, the variety of tea sets used by people has basically not changed much, only in the style or texture of the tea set.
<h1 class="pgc-h-arrow-right" data-track="51" > leaf play</h1>
In the play, when the daughters of the Sun family are idle, they like to play leaf plays together.
The female relatives of the Sun family sat around a table and played cards
Leaf play, is a card game from the Tang Dynasty, because its cards are only as large as leaves, so it is named "leaf play", a set of leaf plays have a total of forty cards, it is the predecessor of our current poker cards.
Leaf play
It is an accepted fact that in the late Ming Dynasty, especially on the eve of the fall of the Ming Dynasty, this unique "card playing game" once swept the Ming Dynasty, and even some scholars studied that Daming was destroyed by the hands of Leaf Play.
Ming Qiuying "Garden Recreation Map" Partial
Linked to the original prosperity of the Sun family in the play, and the recent because of the addiction to playing cards at the expense of borrowing other people's health codes, resulting in the country into a severe situation of the epidemic situation, playing cards is really wrong!
< h1 class="pgc-h-arrow-right" data-track="56" > old-fashioned COS</h1>
The main poster of Yulou Chun, which is called "hades poster" by netizens, seems to have put the actor's face P into the ancient painting. Isn't this another painting?
As you can see, this poster with a very Qing Dynasty atmosphere is a complete "reproduction" of the Qing Dynasty's female figure.
Change Qi Qing Dynasty female figure
On the other side of the poster, two women in Han costumes in front of the snow window, one sitting embroidered butterfly, one standing to appreciate the evaluation, the prototype is also a Painting of the Qing Dynasty.
"Yulou Spring" poster VS Qing Dynasty painter Wang Zhicheng "Snow Window Double Concubine"
It should be noted that "Snow Window Concubines" is the title taken by the auctioneer, but given Qianlong's preference for letting missionaries paint portraits of harem concubines, it is likely that the painting is one of Qianlong's two concubines.
Another ancient painting appears in the form of a background, as the first master in the capital, Yu Niangzi, who is proficient in pipa, is followed by a "Hele Tu", which is more in line with the context here.
Behind Lady Yu (right) is Zhou Wenji's Hele Tu
Five Generations Zhou Wenjue The first paragraph of "Hele Tu" Collection of the Art Institute of Chicago, USA
I believe that everyone can also see the biggest bug in the whole drama of "Yulou Chun", although it is verbally said that the background is the Ming Longqing period, but a large number of references to Fuhua Dao are still from the Qing Dynasty, and Yu Zheng cannot get rid of the cage of the Qing Palace drama after all.
However, the screenwriter also has his own explanation for this, "I am an overhead historical drama!" ”
Fine，Love & Peace！
Although the crew is full of loopholes in the costume road, we still have to thank the actresses for shaving their eyebrows, restoring the makeup of women in the Ming Dynasty, and finally no longer have to see the korean flat eyebrows of the same color!
The set is also pleasing to the eye, generally speaking, it is not shoddy, but it is also a kind of progress!