China.com Fashion on September 14 On the moon for nine days, you can pick the stars, and the romantic fantasy of the vast starry sky flows in the cultural blood of Chinese thousands of years. Shangjiukai Bian Huizhong's spring/summer 2024 haute couture new collection inherits the ancestors' yearning for the starry sky, and uses Song Jin fashion as the carrier to shine the infinite imagination of the vast universe for thousands of years into reality.
On September 13th, Shangjiukai Bian Huizhong's new collection of spring/summer 2024 haute couture was presented at China International Fashion Week. Drawing inspiration from "Getaway", designer Bian Huizhong brings traditional culture and future technology to life.
Stepping into the 79-tank show, the entrance to the parallel universe seems to be opened, the interstellar map expands in the dome, and the mysterious laser aperture soars like a Kunpeng around the star map, opening the curtain of the "getaway" theme show of Shangjiukai.
Technology + Song Jin Unlocks more possibilities
"There is a fish in the north, whose name is kun, which turns into a bird, and its name is peng. Angry and flying, its wings are like clouds in the sky. "The Getaway opens with an infinite reverie of the ancient world. The vast sea, the endless sky, the changing form, perhaps Zhuang Zhou heard about the lost ancient technology, and then marveled at the ancients' mastery of scientific knowledge such as astronomy and geography. From armillary spheres to sundials, we are familiar with the stories of the ancients who stargazed and explored the sky.
And the Chinese civilization may have had more unknown advanced technologies, which looked up to astronomy and looked down on geography, evoking infinite reverie in his heart. In the contemporary era, scientific and technological self-reliance and independent innovation are in the same vein, "Shenzhou" asks the sky, "Chang'e" covers the moon, "Beidou" guides the way, and "Xihe" is also exploring the mysteries of the universe day by day, continuing to write a magnificent history of scientific and technological progress. With high respect and imagination for Chinese civilization, Bian Huizhong collides traditional culture with the metaverse in his design, presenting the unique "spiritual pursuit" and "cultural exclusivity" of the East.
Based on the mythical fable of "Zhuangzi" and "Kunpeng spreading its wings", Shangjiukai used "Fish in the North", "Kunpeng's Transformation" and "Dapeng Spreading Wings" to subtly allude to the three important stages of intangible cultural heritage innovation, and set this show as three series: "Cheng Kun", "Hua Peng" and "Xingcha". With a grand perspective and virtual and real elements, it creates a surreal fantasy world like the "Classic of Mountains and Seas". On the runway, the three series pay tribute to the freedom and comfort of "Kunai and Peng" swimming in the water and the firmament, and the philosophical will of breaking through fate and seeking the ultimate through the black and white gray tones that have been simplified from complexity, the glittering gold and silver threads, and the classic silhouette of rigidity and softness.
In Bian Huizhong's view, the place where Kun and Peng are involved is a mysterious underground abyss, a boundless cosmic star sea, a sleeping ancient ruin, and an unknown future to look forward to. Therefore, the third series "Xingcha" is connected with future technology, and redefines the innovation boundaries of intangible cultural heritage through the mixing and matching of down materials and Song Jin fabrics. The finale shape also reflects the successful launch of Tiangong-1, filling the sense of courage and making Song Jin a bridge connecting fantasy and reality, past and future.
In terms of pattern, this season uses the yin and yang polka dots in the "River Tuluo Book", known as the "Cosmic Cube", flipping octagonals, and combined with the arrangement of Song Jin, presenting a unique polka dot and check pattern, which fits with the golden section of the structure, extending the beauty of countless changes. At the same time, modern mechanical patterns, structures and materials weave, collide and blend with traditional Song Jin to create a more futuristic cyberpunk style. In addition, the headwear is also combined with 3D printing technology modeling, visually recreating the contest between science and art, rationality and sensibility, making the futuristic color more bright.
What's even more exciting is that the new season's works innovatively use new materials such as stretch Song Jin, openwork Song Jin, blended Song Jin, etc., to integrate Song Jin clothing into the atmosphere of the times, which is not only easier to wear daily, but also more popular with young consumers. It can be seen that every wisp of Song Jin condenses the crystallization of ancient wisdom, and the injection of future technology gives it new flexibility and possibility.
Song Jin is young and leads the new national trend
"Looking back at history, exploring the present, and enlightening the future" has always been the main line of Shangjiukai's creation, and the "Song Jin" running through it more appropriately leads the intangible inheritance idea of "revitalizing innovation". Shangjiukai firmly believes that traditional culture is not a cliché that has been buried in history, but a source of vitality and vitality, and only by returning intangible cultural heritage to the essence of life can new values and meanings be created.
In the spring/summer collection launch this time, the model appeared calmly in micro-flared jeans with a mechanical leg structure, highlighting the calm and calm charm of contemporary women. These 10 denim pieces are all made of stretch Song brocade fabric, Shangjiukai combines the top silk taken from the natural silkworm factory with the rough and wear-resistant denim texture, reducing the friction coefficient of denim while retaining the texture, making the denim texture smooth and "breathing", presenting a fashionable and avant-garde street style, realizing the "ultimate combination of life and intangible cultural heritage". In addition, continuing the concept of "one dress, more than one wear" in the previous season, this season's work still has a strong sustainable fashion color. The designer sets the zipper as the protagonist in the clothing, and uses its sense of line to deconstruct and reconstruct the clothing to combine multiple wearing forms.
Song Jin represents the crystallization of ancient Chinese wisdom, and Shangjiukai's design innovation is radiating new life in the inheritance. Just like this season's research and development of new materials – the pursuit of excellence and self-surpassing, we can feel the ambition and perseverance of Kunpeng. This attempt is not only a tribute to traditional culture, but also a vision of the future. It tells us that tradition and innovation are not contradictions, but an organic integration, a respect for history and exploration of the future.
Wu Jianhua, chairman and general manager of Suzhou Shangjiukai Silk Technology and Culture Co., Ltd., adheres to the ingenuity of excellence, and supports the responsibility of cross-era artists with action and temperature. In 2012, he and his team successfully developed an electronic jacquard machine that conforms to the traditional Song Jin weaving process and various technical parameters, pioneered the production of Song Jin on modern looms, developed silk products with traditional characteristics and fashion trends, and was the first person to propose and practice the "living protection" of Song Jin, injecting new elements into traditional skills, broadening the diversified development of silk, and creatively applying it to various fields, so that traditional culture can continue and carry forward.
As one of the designated manufacturers of souvenirs for the 2022 Beijing Winter Olympics, Shangjiukai has integrated thousands of years of Song Jin culture into its products, giving the cultural and creative series a unique charm. In fact, this is only the tip of the iceberg in Shangjiukai's innovative products, which has been selected for many large-scale events such as the G20 Hangzhou Summit, Astana World Expo, BRICS Summit, Boao Forum, SCO Summit, and Jiangsu Development Conference. At the China International Fashion Week in recent years, Shangjiukai also adheres to a strong non-genetic commitment and vivid design trend, repeatedly transforming the literary and artistic beauty under the mythical color into visual design language, and creating a "new fashion legend" with Song Jin. In the future, Shangjiukai will cooperate with more artists, designers and technology experts to integrate Song Jin with elements from different fields to create more unique and fascinating works. At the same time, the brand will continue to pay attention to sustainable development and strive to inherit traditional culture more exciting and lasting.