1. Settings
1. Picture Picture Calibration
Generally, you can use "standard", it is recommended to adjust the sharpness of "standard" to +3, contrast +1, saturation +1, which can make the photo "sharper", and when shooting portraits, it is recommended to adjust the sharpness of +4, and the landscape is recommended to adjust the sharpness +7.
2.D-Lighting
Off: It is recommended to use high dynamic HDR in a high-light ratio environment, which is to take multiple photos according to different exposures and then composite, the effect is much better, but there may be color distortion.
3. M file
If you are traveling or want to capture at any time, try not to use M stop, switch to A stop, because A stop is aperture priority, you only need to adjust the aperture, the machine will automatically adjust the shutter speed to achieve Ev balance, so that your photos rarely underburst overburst.
4. Metering
In general, it is sufficient to use range or central evaluation metering during the day, and it is best to use spot metering at night.
5.ISO
The higher this value, the faster the shutter will be, and the ISO will be doubled, and the shutter will be twice as fast. But the noise will increase, 400 during the day, 1600- or more indoors, and 6400 at night will not be much of a problem, noise control is still very good!
6. Aperture
The larger this value, the smaller the aperture produced, the larger the aperture, indicating that the more light can reach the CMOS, and you can get a faster shutter, twice the aperture, and the shutter will be twice as fast. At the same time, the larger the aperture, you will get a shallow depth of field, which means that the more the background blur is. In addition, the definition of aperture is calculated on the basis that the human eye is 1.0. Generally speaking, when shooting landscapes, the aperture should be between f8-f11, and the close-up should be about f4.
7. Focal length
The smaller the focal length, the larger the scene of the captured frame, and vice versa. At the same time, as the focal length increases, the smaller the depth of field, the easier it is to blur the background.
Second, the technique
1. Shoot small things that are still still
Such as flowers, birds, insects: with A stop, the aperture is preferably f5.6 or below, the focal length is preferably above 50, try to shoot within 1m to make the background blur! If the light is good, ISO 100, if the light is not good, the ISO should be within 400.
2. Shoot people
Basically, a large aperture (within f5.6), a focal length of 50mm or more, the shooting distance depends on the whole body, half-body, and headshot, so that the background is blurred, and a stop A is used! Good light, ISO100, bad light, within ISO400.
3. Shoot the scene
A stop, use the appropriate aperture, f8 or above, the focal length is casual, however, the general wide-angle end has distortion, use as appropriate.
4. Take pictures of night scenes
On tripod, M gear, custom white balance or incandescent, aperture above f8, small aperture can make the light out of the starlight effect; Within ISO200, try to extend the exposure time, so that some people who have not intentionally walked by disappear from the picture, leaving no traces, and purifying the scene.
5. Take pictures of fireworks
Using shutter cable, B shutter, long exposure, you can shoot the effect of multiple fireworks overlapping.
6. Pat running stuff
In the case of good light: A stop, the aperture size is handled as appropriate; Use an aperture above f8 to get a large depth of field effect, and use a small aperture to get a shallow depth of field effect;
If you want to shoot a very dynamic effect, you can use the S stop, the shutter is about 1/30, and while the focus is pressed on the shutter, the lens moves the subject at a suitable speed, which will produce a very dynamic effect.
Poor lighting: can only be dealt with at the discretion, plus the use of chasing.
7. Pat running water or fountain
With the S stop, the shutter speed of about 1/50 can shoot the effect of satin, and with the fast shutter, you can shoot the effect of water droplets!
8. Night portrait photos
On a tripod, adjust white balance, automatic or custom white balance; iso100-400； A stop, aperture around f8, using slow sync flash, rear curtain flash mode; At this point, the flash will flash twice, press the shutter once, and flash again before the end of exposure, so do not leave before flashing twice. Shooting in this way can make the character clear, and the background neon is also very beautiful, so as not to underexpose the background and be too dark.
9. Aperture priority tips:
1) No matter what you shoot. Unless you want to maintain a safe shutter, don't shoot with maximum aperture.
2) Please use the aperture of F8-F11 as much as possible to shoot landscapes.
3) Close-ups of people and still lifes can be reduced by 1-2 stops with the maximum aperture.
4)Safety shutter, please try to control the focal length above the reciprocal. The wide-angle shutter should also be safe at more than 1/30th of a second. If the shutter is insufficient, increase the aperture or ISO.
10. Metering method:
1) Metering should not be directed at the sky, not at the darkest places. To grab the median.
2) According to the subject you shoot, make good use of the metering mode (weigh metering. Spot metering. Center-weighted metering).
3) If you encounter metering inaccuracy, please lock the exposure of gray things around you before shooting.
4) Try not to meter white or black objects, otherwise please remember to reduce EV for black and add EV for white.
EV is exposure compensation, exposure compensation is also an exposure control method, generally common in the ± 2-3EV or so, if the ambient light source is dim, you can increase the exposure value (such as adjusting to +1EV, +2EV) to highlight the clarity of the picture.
The shooting environment is relatively dim and the brightness needs to be increased, and when the flash does not work, the exposure can be compensated for and the exposure can be increased appropriately. When compensating for exposure, if the photo is too dark, increase the EV value, every 1.0 increase in the EV value is equivalent to doubling the amount of light ingested, if the photo is too bright, reduce the EV value, and every 1.0 decrease in the EV value is equivalent to doubling the amount of light ingested.
When the white object being photographed looks gray or not white enough in the photo, to increase the amount of exposure, simply put, "the whiter the more", which seems to be contrary to the basic principles and habits of exposure, in fact, this is because the camera's metering is often biased towards the center subject, the white subject will make the camera mistakenly think that the environment is very bright, so underexposed, which is also a common problem that most beginners are prone to.
Since the shutter time or aperture size of the camera is limited, it is not always possible to achieve the adjustment range of 2EV, so the exposure compensation is not a panacea, and underexposure may still be possible in too dark environments, so consider using the flash or increasing the ISO sensitivity of the camera to improve the brightness of the picture. Generally speaking, the smaller the contrast in the brightness of the scene, the more accurate the exposure, and vice versa, the deviation increases.
All in all, the adjustment of exposure compensation is determined by experience and color acuity, and users must compare the image quality, sharpness, reproduction and noise size under different exposure compensation in order to take the best picture.
11. There is a basic principle, if it is not an optional special high-grade sensor, all noise reduction achieved by software is at the expense of details.
I really don't understand when I see someone shooting with ISO=12800 on a sunny daylight. Without a doubt, the lower the sensitivity, the better the image quality. When speed and aperture allow, try to use low sensitivity, which is a basic requirement for taking good photos. Although the D5100 is the most powerful of the entry-level DSLRs, don't easily set it too high. There are only two situations where it is reasonable to use the high-sensitivity setting, one is to shoot the night scene handheld, and the second is to shoot dynamic in low light.
Pay special attention to the picture quality, generally use ISO100-400, ISO100, 200, 400 picture quality difference is very small; In order to prevent the paste from generally using ISO800-3200; ISO64 million can also be used as a last resort, ISO12800 picture quality is more than 6400 has a sudden deterioration, it is best never to use.
12. When using the standard lens, pay attention to the focal length and aperture selection.
The 18-55 lens has two significant drawbacks: poor sharpness at wide apertures and better acutance at the telephoto end, but worse than at the middle focal length. When using, try not to use both ends, but because the wide angle is only to 18mm, and have to be used, then the focal length at 18mm to narrow the aperture, generally above F8, the telephoto end 55mm try to avoid, use 40mm can be.
There is a wise saying - F8 has no dog head. Mention the 18-105mm lens by the way. The 18-105 lens is much sharper than the 18-55 lens and is worth choosing, but the biggest problem is that the wide-angle distortion is too large, so it is best used to shoot portraits and natural landscapes, and when shooting buildings, the focal length is best to use about 24mm (minimal distortion). The pincushion distortion at the telephoto end of this lens is relatively not very obvious, so you can use it with confidence.
Source: Dream Light and Shadow (ID: chachanyi-1988)