"If a person is cornered and wants to find short-sightedness, let him go to the wet market."
In Gu Long's "Amorous Swordsman Heartless Sword", the cornered Tie Chuanjia accidentally walked to the vegetable market, "the woman holding the child, the old woman with crutches, the greasy cook, all kinds of people carrying the vegetable basket squeezed around him, and the village woman who sold vegetables and the butcher who sold meat fought for a penny, vivid and vivid, and his mood suddenly became clear." ”
Wet markets have always represented the fireworks of city life, and since then, words such as "sanctuary in the city" and "cure" have been repeatedly used in down-to-earth wet markets.
Visiting the "Treasure Market" has also become the most direct way for foreign tourists to explore local life, believing that the most authentic places to eat are hidden in the wet market.
But at the same time, there are tourists in the wet market, middle-aged and elderly people, that is, young people who rarely live locally.
It's not necessarily that young people don't cook, but urban young people don't just buy vegetables in the vegetable market, chain supermarkets, community vegetable stores, roadside stalls, community group buying, online instant delivery have become a better choice for some people.
Image source: Yunnan Publishing Group, Chenguang Publishing House, "Global Tour of 24 Wet Markets"
In front of supermarkets, why can't the vegetable market attract young people, and after the fresh food war between supermarkets and vegetable markets, how online grocery shopping competes under the new consumption habits of young people...
- The best is the wet market
In the hot posts of Xiaohongshu "Two Days and One Night Nanjing Travel Guide" and "24 Hours to Eat Nanjing", there must be the shadow of the vegetable market.
No matter how surprised the locals are about the behavior of "visiting the vegetable market as a scenic spot", it does not prevent Kexiang, Jinxianghe, 378 Alley, and Chananjie Street from being crowded with foreign tourists.
Source: Bilibili "Average price 10r eat Nanjing Kexiang vegetable market!" Can I stay here at a snack gathering place? 》
Chen Xiaoqing, director of "China on the Tip of the Tongue", once said: "The most direct place to understand a city is the local vegetable market. So foreign tourists, who disliked the Confucius Temple and were too commercial, determined to visit every vegetable market that was said to be "old Nanjing people from small to large."
This is true all over the country.
More than 150,000 people on Douban gathered in the "Market Lovers" group to collect and share the markets they visited. The panelists with the ID "Totally Cooked Egg Yolk" compiled a variety of wet market guides from East China, Central China, North China and Northeast China.
The hashtag "Better to visit than attractions" brought the market to life in the hot posts of various platforms.
In March, Xiaohongshu Food Group launched a "Wet Market Hitchhiker" campaign to encourage users to share travel and life stories about the wet market.
What's so good about wet markets?
Fresh.
Dr. Zhong Shuru, an anthropologist who has studied Chinese markets for many years, has pointed out that the freshness of Chinese markets is different from the freshness defined by Western food culture.
The freshness that foreigners think is "given through the cold chain and modern technology", "they pursue cold fresh meat, after the pig is killed, the acid must be drained, and the meat will become soft and tender." And for Chinese, "the pork I bought at the market at 5 or 6 o'clock in the morning is still hot to the touch, it is fresh." ”
Stocking at three o'clock, leaving the stalls at four o'clock, and welcoming customers at five o'clock, the Chinese market stall owners can ensure that the dishes are as fresh as possible. Leafy greens in the fields and pigs and sheep freshly slaughtered from the slaughterhouse can be served to the restaurant table in just a few hours.
Dozens or even hundreds of stall owners can find a wide range of fruits, vegetables, meat, seafood, rice, flour and oil, as well as roast chicken, smoked fish and cold vegetables that accompany meals or are ready-to-eat.
The wet market has always been a quack in its own right, and there is a long-running system of human affection and worldliness, even if you have not yet understood the rivers and lakes, you may have the experience of being stuffed with a handful of green onions by an enthusiastic stall owner.
The bustling wet market is full of people, becoming the best sample pool of residents, and how many university students' project questionnaires and how many "XXX egg delivery" commercial promotion activities are completed here.
Major brands are also seeing business opportunities in the "down-to-earth" wet market.
Prada has long "set up a stall" in Wuzhong Market, Shanghai's net red vegetable market;
The APP chose to hold the first release of the new book "Principles of Xue Zhaofeng Economics" in Beijing's Sanyuanli Vegetable Market, and opened a themed exhibition of "Vegetable Market Meets Economics";
The boss appliance entered the Suzhou Shuangta Market, Kuaishou Small Shop and Qingdao Farmers Market, all of which thought of carrying forward the "vegetable market literature".
But for local young people, while praising the lively vegetable market on the Internet, they turn their heads and plunge into chain supermarkets, and young people who can't play in the vegetable market would rather go to the supermarket to buy high-priced vegetables than choose the "fresh, complete and varied" fruits and vegetables in the community vegetable market.
Wet market, how to offend young people?
- Urban youth, stepping on the thunder vegetable market
Search for "vegetable market" in Xiaohongshu, in addition to healing fragments of vegetable market life, there are also "wronged" young people who have been dissuaded to retreat after stepping on the thunder.
《Young people need to be cautious when buying vegetables! Merchants are unreasonable and bully young people", "Young people go to the vegetable market with good deception written on their faces", "Does the vegetable market only pit young people"...
Under the seemingly exaggerated headlines are the true stories told by young urban people who have been angry in wet markets.
"Being treated differently" is the most uncomfortable for young people.
It is clear that the chicken legs he just bought are 12 yuan a catty, but the stall owner can weigh the uncle next to him who is chanting a dialect he can't understand at a price of ten yuan a catty.
Perhaps only young people who cannot pick vegetables and meat, do not refuse, and are not sensitive to market prices will understand what it is to carry home a bag of dishes of poor quality and high prices.
And the small actions of some bosses such as reverse erasing, indiscriminate according to the unit price, lack of pounds and less two, shoddy charging, stealing beams and changing columns also make the rare grocery shopping experience of young people very bad.
Because of the "How How" series of daily popular science videos, "Worker Xiao Zhang" has published an issue of "What do you need to pay attention to when going to the vegetable market to buy vegetables", and the first point at the beginning is:
"Hide all your beautiful and beautiful clothes from me" "The better you dress and the more formal you dress when you come to the market, the more beautiful you may be when you buy vegetables."
All in all, the more grounded the better, the less like a novice, the better, put away clear eyes, can wear slippers without stepping on high heels, can a shark clip hairstyle don't engage in dopamine styling.
But even if he tried to "comb his hair into an adult", some people said that "I pretended to be a veteran posture to ask for a price or was deceived", netizens analyzed: "It's useless, the aura can't be pretended." At first glance, it is not a good family, and the Lord who eats the whole family without hunger does not pit you."
Tired young people directly choose supermarkets with a better environment.
At least the supermarket will clearly mark the price, not only because there is no bargaining skills to feel a loss, but also after weighing the weight to check the unit price and weight on the commodity price tag, the fair scale after the checkout channel is enough to be reassuring.
In addition, supermarket employees will not be displeased because customers only take a garlic and a cucumber.
In addition, the more objective reason is that supermarkets are more suitable for the routine and rest time of contemporary young people. Eight in the morning is still difficult for today's young people, let alone go out at four or five o'clock to buy vegetables.
The freshness and affordability of the wet market belong to those who rush to the early market, those who can bargain, those who can choose carefully, those who shop around, and they do not belong to the lone workers who just want to buy vegetables quickly after the 9-6 and fool dinner.
And the dishes in the market are fresh, but the freshest vegetables and meat have long been wrapped by housewives who go out to buy dishes before breakfast, and by uncles and aunts who walk after morning exercises. Then "the price of meat before 8:30 in the morning and the price of meat after 8:30 will double, and specialize in killing young people."
- Go to the online vegetable market to "open the blind box"
However, whether small vendors can gain more trust or large supermarkets are more secure, it is completely necessary to analyze the specific place and specific analysis.
Different from the imaginary result of "supermarkets encircling and suppressing vegetable markets", many community vitality vegetable markets have survived one large chain supermarket after another, and some stallholders who do vegetable market business have set up their own doors at the entrance of the community, and also divided part of the supermarket's customer source.
Although supermarkets have bargaining power over the upstream with large-scale procurement, lower purchase prices, and better control quality, not all supermarkets can give customers a home away from home experience and successfully make business like Fat Donglai.
The vegetable market in many places is not much better, real estate developers will not let such a large place as the vegetable market continue to be quiet, some to improve the appearance of the city, some to upgrade the smart agricultural trade, and some can not survive under the less and less flow of people... Many of the city's wet markets are disappearing.
Scattered hawkers would not have rented 350,000 vegetable market stalls a year, leaving slightly powerful vegetable market stall owners or supermarkets or vegetable shops downstairs in the community, especially in first- and second-tier cities, most of them choose to cater to the consumption habits of contemporary people under increasing rent pressure - turn to the front.
From the perspective of consumers, there are three main types of online fresh food.
A kind of Meituan Preferred, Duoduo Grocery and Taocai vegetables from the next day delivery, the price is low enough, but the quality control is worrying. The standard packaging of grain and oil snacks and daily necessities is indeed affordable, but the personal operational quality of the owner of the pick-up point greatly affects the receiving experience, resulting in a very high lightning rate of frozen meat and aquatic products.
The second is the online delivery business developed by large supermarkets such as RT-Mart, Yonghui Supermarket, Hema and China Resources Vanguard, which can generally be delivered within one hour after the order is placed.
The products of these channels naturally inherit the advantages and disadvantages of supermarket goods: many goods, stable quality control, but high prices. Until one can be strong enough to form a monopoly advantage, consumers accustomed to supermarket wool will still have the choice in their own hands.
There is also an online instant delivery player, including professional players such as Pupu Supermarket, Dingtone Grocery Shopping, and Meituan Grocery Shopping, as well as personally operated vegetable stores on takeaway apps. Generally speaking, product richness, price, etc. are between community group buying and chain supermarkets, the advantage is that after-sales is more convenient, the threshold for reduction and distribution is lower, and it is suitable for a small number of purchases by people living alone.
But overall, whether it is instant delivery or next-day delivery, every online shopping behavior that cannot be selected offline is full of uncertainty.
The vegetable market is not friendly to young people who are new to the rivers and lakes, the price of supermarket dishes is not friendly to wallets, and online grocery shopping is purely opening blind boxes, which is not friendly to the quality of vegetables and meat.
In any case, the full competition of various forms of sales, and no one of them is so big that it can "cheat customers" is the most friendly situation for vegetable buyers.
In this way, young people who rarely get up early can arrange a whole weekend's breakfast lunch in the noisy vegetable market, order raw fruits and raw meat online before leaving work on weekdays and cook them directly at home, and after adding evening shifts, they can also relax in nearby supermarkets while shopping for fresh green vegetables.
Fresh pork and seafood should be booked in the vegetable market in the morning, pre-packaged food can be sold online, and half-price vegetables can be squatted at Hema at eight or nine o'clock in the evening.
Supermarkets or wet markets, online or offline, young people want to.
Resources:
One: The female doctor has been visiting the national vegetable market for 6 years: it is crowded and noisy, but it is lively
China Advertising: Did you visit the wet market today? The brand takes you to unlock the "sense of life" from the wet market