In my impression, the Huangjia Garden and Songshouli are the base of the "Nut Zhang" family. On the eve of liberation, that is, in the 40s, from Songshouli across the Shanxi Bridge to look up, I saw a shop of fried nuts, the door face is not large, just like the tenant who is now doing small business, a small window is so big, two or three square meters of façade, the place is very narrow, can only put down a large frying pan, pile up some raw materials or something. Outside there is a rectangular table with three large long trays with fried goods inside. I only remember three, peeled nuts; peeled nuts and tiger beans (fried broad beans), small shop but very good business. This is the "nut zhang" that came out later, the most primitive "door face" I have ever seen.
The "Guo Ren Zhang" family lives in Songshouli, and my family is in a small alley, and it is in a row, his family is at the head of the row, my family lives in the end of the row, and every time I go out, I have to pass through his house. When my family moved into Matsusuri in 1946, his family was already living there. At that time, the Zhang family had a middle-aged couple, about the same age as my mother. They had two sons, the eldest seventeen or eighteen years old, a few years older than me; the second son, a year younger than my sister. They still had girls in their family, whether they were one or two, I don't remember. It seems that there is another young man, I don't know if it is a relative of his family or a young man. Zhangjia's house is on the first floor and one bottom, two large rooms, both 18 square meters, wooden floors, wooden stairs, there are more than one square meter of stairwells. At the back is a very small yard, a toilet. There is also a seven- or eight-square-meter cottage between here and the back door, where the "White Blacksmith" family lives. The "white blacksmith" family makes a living by changing the bottom of the pot and making some water scoops and small smoke pipes for hot pots. The front door of the Zhang family is two open doors of wood, and there is a front yard, which is about 10 square meters large, and there are three large tanks in the courtyard, two soaked with raw nuts and one soaked with raw broad beans. Such a living environment was also considered a wealthy household in Matsushouli at that time.
Below: The fourth generation of Zhang Yifeng (the eldest son of the Zhang family in this article), received PuJie's inscription in 1987.
In the three-cylinder delivery in the yard, some of the raw nuts that have been soaked must be peeled to make clean nuts; the tiger platinum nuts that are not peeled are made. Fava beans also have to be processed, to cut a small opening in its tail, and when fried, a mouth, it becomes a "tiger bean". These three cylinders of stuff are not a small project. The Zhang family is well-connected, every night at the door hangs a 100-watt large light bulb, under the lights gathered men and women, adults and children a large group, all come to help peel the nut skin, cut the broad bean mouth. There are many people, the size of the bench is not enough to sit, and there are small benches with their own. Why is it so popular? In addition to the good fortune of the Zhang family, there is also a trick here, that is, the eldest son of the Zhang family is particularly good at telling stories and telling "ghost stories". Therefore, it not only attracts many children, but also binds many adults. My sister and I rushed to his house every day after dinner with a small bench, and my mother said, "It's really ghostly." In addition to listening to the story to take a good position, it is also necessary to "grab" a special tool for cutting broad beans, which is the Zhang family's homemade tool. A small thin wooden board more than two inches long and more than an inch wide, with a very fast small iron piece on the head, put the tail of the fava bean up, cut one by one, very fun. If you can't grab the tools when you go late, you have to peel the nuts or transport the goods, which is not only tiring, but also the story can't be heard. The Zhang family packed up the semi-finished products processed by everyone, transported them to the "Huangjia Garden" the next day, and fried them for sale. The lively scenery in front of Zhang's house every night is actually just a place where everyone laughs and relieves boredom, it is difficult to say how much help they can help, and it is difficult to say how much they can eat and drink and work hard to eat and drink in the morning, or the Zhang family is old and young.
The Zhang family also sells rice dumplings every year around the fifth day of the first five days of May, and the eldest girl and the little daughter-in-law will also get together, while Zhang parents Li family short idle, while helping to wrap rice dumplings. This work, can not let the child intervene, the child has to coax "go and go!" Play over there! ”。 My sister was naughty at that time, and ran home with a rice dumpling leaf at some point. When she arrived at home, she said to her: "People use this to wrap rice dumplings and sell them for money, you send them back!" My sister was very screwed, just didn't go, and was beaten for this matter, and finally I sent it.
At that time, the person who fried the nuts was the head of the Zhang family, and everyone called him Zhang Zhang,Whose fried goods were delicious. The same raw materials, others can not fry the taste of his home, my family often buy a dime or two fragrant mouth, the most favorite is still peeled "net fragrant peanut kernels". The Zhang family's business is becoming more and more prosperous, and I remember that at that time, everyone called his family "Guo Ren Zhang". A few years later, the eldest son of the Zhang family got married, it was very lively, the children went to eat sugar, and we also ate candy. My sister and I remember that the new daughter-in-law was particularly beautiful, and the new daughter-in-law who had just passed through the door rarely did her own work. Later, I heard my mother say that the main credit of the Zhang family's fortune was his eldest daughter-in-law, and both the mother and the fourth sister knew that the Daughter-in-law of the Zhang family was called Chen Jing. After the liberation of the mother, she has been running the street to work, these things she knows, but unfortunately the old man is no longer alive.
Below: Zhang Yifeng's wife, Guoren Zhang's head, Ms. Chen Jing.
I learned from the information that "Nut Zhang" has a history of more than 160 years, and the first and second generations of his family worked as a cook in the Imperial Dining Room of the Qing Palace, specializing in frying various small foods, called palace snacks. The "Zhang Treasurer" before and after liberation was the third generation, called Zhang Huishan, in fact, in his generation, he had already begun to make a fortune. At the 1956 Tianjin Food and Beverage Commercial Quality Varieties Exhibition, his fried goods were rated as excellent food. Zhang Huishan became the manager of the public-private partnership store department. After the reform and opening up, Zhang Yifeng, the fourth generation of Zhang Huishan's son, and his wife Chen Jing inherited their father's business and carried it forward to become the current famous brand enterprise.
(Photo: Huang Shumin)
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