Back to nature: Croatia's Konati National Park is an archipelago of 89 uninhabited islands.
When Dalmatia is mentioned, people usually think of Split and Dubrovnik. But heading to the northern part of this Croatian coastal region, you will find a road off the beaten track.
Croatia's coastline from Zadar to Trogir is less than 90 miles (about 144 kilometers) long, and is home to a staggering amount of history and culture, as well as stunning landscapes.
And that's just the continent - dozens of islands are scattered along the coast. Many are uninhabited; When you need to get away from it all, somewhere else is the place to go.
There's even Konati National Park, spread across 89 islands, one of Croatia's most fascinating natural landscapes. You'll soon see why boat trips are so appealing.
The two big cities of Zadar and Šibenik take you back in time: Zadar back to Roman times and Šibenik back to the time of Croatia's medieval rulers. Meanwhile, Trogir – whose old town occupies its own island – is a magical place protected by a UNESCO World Heritage Site. In between are charming coastal villages, secluded beaches and inland wine regions.
In and around Zadar
The Basilica of St. Anastasia in Zadar is surrounded by Roman ruins.
Walking into the historic center of Croatia's oldest city – founded by ancient Libunian tribes and colonized by the Romans in the first century BC – you'll gain insight into what makes this country's history so fascinating. In a square within this walled old town, you will be immersed in centuries of history.
Trg Opatice ike is centered around the remains of the Roman Forum, many of which were used to build the 9th-century St. Donat's Church next to it. Next to the church is the Romanesque Basilica of St. Anastasia.
Opposite that, don't miss the 11th-century bell tower next to St. Mary's Church - a Renaissance Benedictine monastery (but with some Roman and medieval architecture inside). St. Mary's Church and St. Anastasia's Baptistery were destroyed in Allied bombing in 1943 and had to be rebuilt.
"Greetings to the Sun" glows at night.
Walking along Zadar's waterfront, you'll be firmly transported back in time to the 21st century as you see two art installations by Nikola Bai, which have become major attractions.
Sit on the gleaming marble steps by the water and listen to the haunting sound of the sea organ, a set of underwater pipes driven by waves. Right next to it, inlaid on the waterfront, is its accompaniment piece, "Greeting the Sun", illuminated by blue glass panels that glow at night.
After a leisurely stroll around the Zadar Food Market, a five-minute walk from ulica Hrvoja Vukia Hrvatinia, it's time to head to the beach.
Walking along the coast north of the centre, you'll find the family-friendly beaches of Borik and Diklo, while below the old town are the city beaches - Kolovare is popular for its liveliness. For a complete beach experience, head about 4 miles south of Kolovare and you'll reach the village of Bibinje, which is home to the largest marina in Croatia at the end of nearly 3 miles of beach.
Before you leave the mainland, make a quick detour about 10 miles (16 kilometers) north of the beach bar Zadar to the charming town of Nin. Its setting is unusual: two protective sandy beaches surround the old town, which sits on its own island and is connected by two bridges.
The surrounding salt flats provide clues to the importance of Nin in the Middle Ages, which you can see for yourself by visiting the Ninh Salt Works.
Visit the museum and discover that little has changed over the past 1,000 years – salt is still harvested by hand. After exploring the narrow alleys of the Old Town, head to the sandy beach just outside Queens Beach and join the locals in finding "therapeutic" mud in the reeds behind the beach.
Zadar Islands
Dugi Otok ("Long Island") is a fast ferry about two hours west of Zadar.
The numerous islands scattered off the coast of Zadar are among the most laid-back in Croatia, many of which are accessible by ferry.
Two of the closest and most accessible places – Ugljan and Paman – are just 25 minutes by boat and almost like the outskirts of Zadar, although the outskirts are overgrown with olive trees, sunken cobbled coves, and criss-crossed by hiking and cycling trails.
Taking around three hours by ferry from Zadar, Sirba is one of the farthest places to stay, a cool place where cars are not allowed and even bicycles are prohibited during the summer months. Its smaller neighbor, Olib, is also on the same ferry route and feels more remote.
Travel west from Zadar for about two hours by fast ferry and you'll reach the winding Dugi Otok, meaning "Long Island". Driving along the coastline, you'll find many small fishing villages, an old Yugoslav U-boat bunker, and the Veli Rat – the tallest lighthouse in the Adriatic, reaching 135 feet tall.
Climb to the top of the hill for views of the northern coast of Dugi Otok and neighboring islands. While you'll see that most of the island's beaches are cobblestone bays, Sakarun on the west coast has sandy beaches, while at the southern end is the stunning Telasica Natural Park, with its 25 bays and six islets wedged into claw-shaped landscape oak and olive groves, lined with sidewalks.
Follow the trail to the inland saltwater lake Mir, or "Peace". When it's not peak season, it lives up to its name.
Kornati National Park
Sailors have long known the joy of traversing Kornati National Park, an archipelago of 89 bizarre barren but beautiful islands located south of Dugi Otok.
If you want to get off the grid, this is the place for you – there is no running water or electricity anywhere on the island, only rain, gas and solar. In fact, there is not even a permanent population, except for a sporadic flock.
Once the season begins, some islands, including Konati, Priszkela and Levnaka, come alive. Restaurants and rental cottages are open to boating crowds, and there is also a fully equipped marina on Prikera.
Apart from swimming, eating, drinking, and maybe hiking - and repeating, there is not much to do. If you don't have your own boat, you can join a boat tour from Murter, an island close to the mainland connected by a bridge.
Šibenik
Šibenik's St. Jakov's Cathedral appears in Game of Thrones.
Most tourists strangely overlook one of Croatia's greatest cities, but Šibenik is a must-visit.
Built in the 11th century AD by Croats rather than Romans or Greeks, like other Dalmatian cities, it is home to the magnificent St. Jakov Cathedral, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, a Gothic Renaissance marvel surrounded by a frieze of 71 carved portraits.
The Venetians ruled here from 1412 to 1797, and it's easy to get lost happily in the labyrinth of marble alleys they left behind in the historic center, but save time visiting the three city fortresses they built.
The fastest to reach St. Michael's Church is less than a 10-minute walk from the waterfront and is also an open-air venue for summer pop concerts with stunning views of the Adriatic Sea beyond.
Also watch out for the signs that lead you about five minutes south of the fort to the fragrant medieval Mediterranean gardens of St. Lawrence Abbey. Breathe in the scent of lavender, rosemary, and weeds as you relax on the garden benches.
Šibenik is often used as a starting point for visiting the Krka National Park inland, where the waterfalls are at least as impressive as those of the more famous Plitvice Lakes National Park.
Buses depart from Šibenik to the riverside town of Skradin, 12 miles north, from where you can take a boat ride east along the Krka River past seven huge waterfalls. The most famous is Skradinski Buk, with 17 waterfalls cascading down each other.
At this point, you can disembark and take a closer look along the sidewalk before delving deeper into the lush greenery of the river. The cruise stops at several locations, including the thundering Roki Slap Waterfall and the Visovac Island Monastery.
Late spring, early summer, and autumn are great times to visit, as water levels drop during the summer.
Primosten
Pretty Primosten is the wine hub of the region.
Wine lovers can stop at the charming town of Primotten, about 18 miles (28 kilometers) south of Šibenik. You'll be the best place to visit a nearby winery specializing in indigenous Babi grapes, which produce soft, fruity red wines in a landscape of rolling hills and olive groves – try Mato?in or Prgin.
The Old Town of Primoten is located on its own island, connected to the New Town by a causeway. Its stepped alleys lead to the 15th-century Church of St. George, which offers views of the Adriatic Sea. Keep an eye out for a small promontory just north of the old town, where you'll see pebbled beaches shaded by pine trees.
Trogir
The walled town of Trogir sits on an island sandwiched between two other pieces of land.
The walled old town of tiny Trogir also sits on its own island, sandwiched between the mainland (where the newer part of the city is located) and the vast island of Ivo, with its northern and western coasts lined with beach resorts. A bridge between the three.
Standing in the central square next to the Romanesque Cathedral of St. Lawrence, you'll immediately understand why the old town is included in the UNESCO World Heritage List.
It is a delightful collection of medieval palaces and cobbled alleys, with restaurants and bars in the square crowded into small courtyard gardens.
Stroll along the Riva waterfront to the Kamerlengo Fortress, built in the 15th century, an atmospheric venue for classical and pop concerts in the summer.