#原创散文 #
Author: Cheng Zhaohui (Wuhan, Hubei)
Three years ago, I passed through Taiyuan in a hurry because I was attending a work meeting. When he returned to Han, his colleague from Shanxi said that if he did not go to the Jin Temple in Taiyuan, he would go to Taiyuan in vain.
Before the Qingming Festival this year, I finally had the opportunity to visit Taiyuan again, and I cherished this opportunity very much, and dedicated half a Saturday to visit the Jinci Temple.
Take a bus from Taiyuan Wuyi Square and travel southwest of Taiyuan for about 1 hour to reach the foot of Hangweng Mountain. The "Taiyuan County Record" said: "There are huge stones in the belly of the mountain like urns, because of the name. This is where the name Hanging Ong Mountain comes from. I stopped and looked up, but what I saw was a different kind of scenery, the giant shadow of Hanging Mountain was vast, there were a few white clouds hanging on the top of the mountain, and there were several ancient buildings towering on the mountainside like ink, green tile cornices, simple and elegant, staggered heights, magnificent, but there were no urn-shaped boulders. I asked the locals and replied that there was an earthquake in the Song Dynasty that demolished the stones.
Everywhere I went, it was the Jin Temple.
Built by the mountains, the Jin Temple is the culmination of ancient gardens, sculptures, murals and inscriptions on the mainland, and is a large-scale ancient building complex integrating Confucianism and Taoism, built to commemorate Tang Shuyu, the first prince of the Western Zhou and Jin states. The date of its creation is unknown, but the earliest record comes from the "Notes on the Water Classic" of the Northern Wei Dynasty: "The mountain pillow water in the western part of the swamp, there is the Tang Shuyu Temple..."
Crossing the tall archway, the terrain has become relatively flat, the previous lofty mountains have disappeared, as far as the eye can see, the ancient trees are towering, the ancient trees are mostly pine and locust, the age of the trees is more than 1300 years, I stroked the pimple bark with my hand, as if holding the thick hand of the Tang Dynasty gardener, history stopped at this moment. The winding path is secluded, passing through it, as if you are in ancient times, the forest is silent. Suddenly, I saw a large red cloud wrapped in thousands of greens, and when I fixed my eyes, it turned out to be a blooming peach blossom. Spring was covered with branches, white dresses swayed in the breeze, countless bees rose and fell on the petals, and I was about to raise my camera, when the bees fluttered their wings and disappeared into the green leaves. This is truly a rare scenery where the ancient and the modern are combined.
There is no lack of spring in ancient times, which is a distinctive feature of the long-standing Chinese civilization.
Step by step, spring water clanging, stream gurgling, pavilion and corridor looking at each other, building and pavilion leaning on each other, flowers and platforms embraced, caves and mountains meet, it is completely a scenery of Jiangnan water town. It is said that it is Jiangnan Water Town, and it is different from Jiangnan Water Town, in addition to having flowers, birds, insects and fish, each pavilion has a pair of links and a plaque, which place is not the true work of everyone? They always speak of unparalleled preciousness and antique artistic value. Climbing a pavilion at random, it seems that you can smell the ancient ink fragrance from the dust of time.
From the Water Mirror Terrace, passing through Huixian Bridge, Jinrentai, and Zhuyue Fang in turn, you will reach the main part of the Jin Temple, that is, the Offering Hall, the Uonuma Flying Beam and the Shrine of Our Lady, which are revered as the Three Treasures of the Jin Temple.
The temple was built in 1168 AD as a place to display sacrificial offerings, with a green tile roof, yellow-green glazed trim, simple arches, and far-reaching eaves. Compared with large palaces, the beam frame of the dedication hall is simple and lightweight, so it can last for a long time. Because the schedule is very full, I carry luggage all the way, and my body is inevitably a little hot and sweaty, but when I enter the temple, I feel cool, there were no preservatives in ancient times, and the food is easy to deteriorate and taste at high temperatures, which is why the temple can store offerings.
Passing through the dedication hall, you will be greeted by a stone bridge with sparkling spring water and koi fish waving under the bridge. The stone pillar holds up the bridge deck, east and west to the temple of the offering and the temple of the Holy Mother, and there are steps in the north and south across the water and unfold downward, like soaring wings, this is the flying beam fish marsh, which was built during the Xingguo period of the Northern Song Dynasty, and can be described as the world's earliest overpass. Liang Sicheng once commented: "This type of stone pillar bridge is occasionally seen in ancient paintings, but the physical object is only this isolated case, which is precious. The so-called "isolated case" is naturally a unique case, no one before and no one after.
Continuing along the central axis to the end of the central axis, a solemn, antique and resplendent building comes into view, this is the Shrine of Our Lady, which was founded in the Northern Song Dynasty during the Taiping and Xingguo period, is the earliest building in the Jin Temple, and is also a representative work of Song Dynasty architectural art, which is of great significance to the study of the history of mainland architecture.
In order to express love and reverence for the great historical women of history, the world usually honors her as the Virgin and enshrines them in temples for future generations to worship. In the shrine of Our Lady of the Five Ancestors Temple of Huangmei in Huanggang, there is an enshrinement of the mother of the fifth generation ancestor Hongnin, Zhou. The Temple of Our Lady of the Jin Temple was built to enshrine Jiang Jiang, the daughter of Jiang Ziya, the wife of King Wu of Zhou, and the mother of King Cheng of Zhou. Our Lady of the Jin Temple is the main hall of the Jin Temple, sitting west to east, with eight wooden carved coiled dragons on the pillars of the front porch of the hall, which is said to be a relic of the Song Dynasty.
Perhaps, the photographer is very fond of artistic value, but he can't carry the hall with him, so he has to light up the flash frequently, but over time, the cultural relics may have chemical reactions under the action of flashing flashes. At that time, Mr. Liang Sicheng campaigned to protect the ancient city wall: "Tearing down a city tower is like digging up a piece of meat for me; Peeling off the bricks of the outer city is like peeling off a layer of my skin. "If Mr. Leung saw tourists like this, I don't know how much his heart would be painful.
In addition to the Three Treasures, the Jin Temple also has three exceptions: one is Zhou Bai, the second is the color sculpture of the Song Dynasty, and the third is Nanlao Spring.
On the north side of the Shrine of Our Lady, there is a cypress tree lying horizontally to the south, with a trunk waist circumference of 5.6 meters, planted by the Western Zhou, which has a history of more than 3,000 years, and after all the vicissitudes, it is still thick and shady, no wonder Ouyang Xiu sighed that "the earth spirit grass and trees are moist, and the lush ancient cypress contains smoke". It is said that all things have spirit, at this moment, I don't know what this century ancient cypress that resembles a crouching dragon is thinking, what to see, I think, it must be tired, if you unload the heavy history it carries, it will definitely be much easier.
The colorful clay sculptures in the temple are treasures in the treasure house of mainland sculpture art, especially the 33 statues of handmaids in it, which are either plump, handsome, lifelike, sentient and spiritual, showing the rich inner world and thoughts and emotions of the handmaids.
"The mountain of hanging urns, the water of Jin", on the south side of the temple, there is a spring well, the continuous surging water in the center of the well is like thousands of buds gathered together to compete for beauty, there is an upward force surging out and expanding to the surroundings, ripples around the well, this is the origin of the Jinshui, the spring water flows out of the well, clear to the bottom, long flow, this is the "difficult old spring". Nanlao Spring means immortal spring water, which holds the people's yearning and demand for a smooth wind and rain and a better life. In early spring, the Jinci Temple is peach red and willow green, the grass grows and the warbler flies, and the Jinshui sings all the way, and the great poet Li Bai once touched the scene here, and the pen produced flowers, and the good sentence "The Jinci Temple flows like jasper, and the microwave dragon scales and sedge green" jumps on the paper.
In the blink of an eye, it was noon, and I only saw a third of the Jinci, because I had to rush the car, and I had to hastily end the Jinci visit.
As we walked outside, student volunteers from Taiyuan No. 16 Middle School gathered above Feiliang Fish Marsh, where they were following their teachers to explain the attraction to tourists. In the center of the temple, a female student explains the unique construction process of the temple to visitors. They explain the Jin Temple, but what they inherit is the spirit, and the spirit is eternal, which will surely lead the Chinese family to become strong and to great rejuvenation.
(Written on Qingming Day 2023)
#湖北日报 #