For more than half a century, Omega's Speedmaster Moonwatch has exerted gravity on Earthlings, turning Omega's rugged chronograph into a living idol. For countless fans of Speedmasters, Omega's announcement in 2019 that it will resurrect its legendary Calibre 321 caliber is just as exciting as landing on the moon. The first watch to feature the highly regarded hand-wound column-wheel chronograph was the high-end Speedmaster Moon 321 Platinum, followed a year later by the stainless steel model Moonwatch Calibre 321 (which we named the "Ultimate Speedmaster"). Let's take a closer look at this heavyweight luxury edition with onyx dial and lunar meteorite counter.
Even before the Speedmaster came out, its heart was beating in Lemania's factory in Villere. Lemania is known for its outstanding watch movements, especially chronographs, stopwatches and minute repeaters, and has supplied chronograph movements to well-known figures in watchmaking. In 1941, Lemania produced the 27 CHRO C12, the predecessor of the Omega 321 calibre, which was, and still is, recognized as one of the best and most beautiful hand-wound chronograph movements ever made.
The first Speedmaster watch in 1957 was equipped with this movement, which had a unique tachymeter scale on the bezel, although other Omega chronographs, such as those in the Seamaster series, also used this movement. Based on Lemania ébauche, Omega's calibre 321 has been equipped with the Speedmaster from its inception in 1957 (CK2915) until the introduction of calibre 861 in the late 1960s. Based on a column wheel and horizontal clutch architecture, the Calibre 321 is considered a more prestigious and "horological" movement than the super-robust but simpler 861 calibre used between 1968 and 1996.
Calibre 321 played a lot in space: it was the movement inside the personal watch (CK2998) used by Wally Schirra during the Sigma 7 mission in 1962, marking the first "unofficial" Speedmaster in space; In 1965, it passed all NASA space mission tests and qualifications, astronaut Ed White (ST105.003) wore it on the first spacewalk in the United States, and it was also carried on the Speedmaster (ST 105.012), the first watch to land on the moon.
The choice of platinum (about 60% heavier than gold) adds luxury and reassuring heaviness to the case. After all, NASA officials say we could mine platinum on the moon in the near future. For the Speedmaster Moonwatch 321, Omega used a special platinum alloy (Pt950Au20). The case design is similar to the firmer case of the ST105.012 lunar watch, with protective support protecting buttons and crowns and twisted lyre lugs. The platinum case is 42 mm in diameter and is brushed and polished (keep in mind, though, that platinum can be easily scratched). The iconic tachymeter bezel is made of black ceramic with white enamel markings that contrast in contrast. Thanks to the chronograph's column wheel structure, the button activation is very smooth.
The inky black dial is made of Onyx and borrows from the design features we typically associate with earlier Omega Speedmaster models, namely the stepped dial structure. More precisely, the central area is raised and the perimeter is slightly inclined, which is seen in most watches from about 1961 to 1974. The rich black luster of onyx forms the basis for three small dials made up of mottled small dials of gray lunar meteorites. Platinum indices for hour and minute hands as well as applications are treated with Super-LumiNova. Fans will love the inclusion of the Omega vintage logo and the word "Professional" at noon, as well as "above 90 points" on the tachymeter scale, just like the original ST 105.012, the last Speedmaster watch with calibre 321 and the first to include a professional inscription.
Now look at this platinum edition, the new Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional has been unveiled, and it is possible to look at this luxury model from another angle. In fact, this Moonwatch 321 Platinum is actually a "teaser" for most of the updates to the regular production steel watch launched in 2021, such as the slightly redesigned case, the return of the stepped dial, the double step case back, the teardrop-shaped second hand, the updated logo and fonts or the historical layout of the bezel.
Since the discontinuation of production in 1968 (at least for Omega), the news that Omega will wake up the calibre 321 has been asleep for more than 5 years, which is like beautiful music to the ears of Speedmaster fans. A special division of Omega manufacturing was set aside to breathe life into the movement. The watch, code-named "Alaska 11", operated in top secret for two years, tasked with rebuilding the movement as accurately as possible. Digital scanning was used to detect the Speedmaster ST 105.003 worn by Gene Cernan during the 1972 Apollo 17 mission, and all parts of the 321 calibre were copied to scale. This high regard for the original meant that Omega's coaxial technology and Supreme Observatory certification were impossible.
Looking at the bottom cover, enthusiasts of the original 321 will notice that the bridges, levers, gears and splints look exactly the same as the original, albeit with a clearer and more detailed finish. For example, the bridge plate and motherboard are plated with Senda gold, and the bevel is polished. Another heartwarming fact is that the entire assembly of the movement, including the headhead and bracelet, is done by a watchmaker. Although the movement still beats at its original slow pace of 18,000vph, the power reserve has been extended to 55 hours.
When I think of this watch, the word that keeps coming to mind is "majestic". This heavy platinum watch with a cold stone dial and fragments of lunar meteorites has a noble, almost detached feel. However, the cold majesty of the dial is compensated by the view from the case back, inviting you to dive into the 321 calibre and its warm 18k Sedna Golden Bridge and the enchanting animations offered by the motherboard. On the other hand, it may be a bit overdone in terms of luxury compared to the Speedmaster's Origin Spirit, after all, it is a meter watch. Its scarcity is destined to make this watch a collector's treasure.
The Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch 321 Platinum comes with a black alligator leather strap and a platinum pin buckle and retails for €59,200. Its number is unlimited.