Media person Yi Xiaohe first saw the name "Xianshi Ancient Town" in 2010, when he was on a plane to flip through an aviation magazine. Located in Zigong, Sichuan, the ancient town was founded 1400 years ago during the Sui Dynasty and served as a transit point on the salt transport channel. The town was only eleven kilometers from Zigong City, where Yi Xiaohe was born and raised, but she had never heard of it. Turning the page of the magazine, she didn't think much about it. For Yi Xiaohe at that time, Zigong was the starting point of wanting to run away when he was a teenager." After graduating from Sichuan Foreign Chinese College, she drifted to Beijing and became a sports reporter traveling all the world, her footsteps have been further away, her hometown is "the size of a pixel on a mobile map". At the end of June 2021, the literary public account "Shaoke Literature and Art" founded by Yi Xiaohe was suspended due to insufficient funds, the business failed, and in the sleeplessness of the whole night, Yi Xiaohe decided to find a fulcrum for his life again. This became an opportunity for her to set her sights back on her hometown. The page of the magazine that I had casually turned ten years ago was turned back. Yi Xiaohe became interested in this town, which could not be found on the map. The salt industry has long passed, and now Zigong is a fifth-tier city where life oscillates between poverty and food and clothing. And after some research, she found an even bigger gap: the story of the women in this town. Women make up half of the ancient town of about 40,000 people. But in the historical record, there are only various male historical figures, and there is no trace of women at all. Yi Xiaohe decided to fill this gap. She was a man of action, immediately packed her bags, and flew alone to the town of Xianshi thousands of kilometers away. The town is very small, "drawing a circle with a diameter distance of about one kilometer", and a river called the Puxi River runs through the ancient town. Yi Xiaohe rented a room on the bank of the river and lived. Before she came, she didn't know anyone here, nor did she have any definite plans or outlines, she sometimes wandered around town, sometimes read books behind closed doors, and just lived, observed, and waited for people and things worth writing about to emerge naturally.
-1 - Strangers in a small town
I went to the Senshi Town City Hall to look for their local chronicles, and there were no real, female-related records. Except for the only legend of the martyr, it is full of myths, such as a story about how two women went to rob the rich and help the poor, but those are all false stories. I was disappointed, sad, and shocked. Don't women deserve to leave their names in history? I thought about it before I went, I wanted to observe a lot of women and write about their lives. I think people should know what kind of background they were in and what kind of life they had. I was indeed a stranger in the beginning. The people in the town had a lot of curiosity and speculation about me, and they thought my way of life was too different. How can a woman not have to do housework, do not have children, do not have to serve her in-laws, do not play mahjong, and can still be so free to shut herself in her room and read books every day. The town is a society of acquaintances, everyone is being judged by others, and everyone is judging others. There began to be all kinds of rumors, speculating about what I did, and even legends about which chief's wife I was. I went to trade with them, like buying things, going to eat, and they were very polite to me, but it was certainly impossible to enter their hearts at first. They think you're an outsider and might be gone in two days. Before I first went, I had a little bit of longing. I thought, like J.K. Rowling, to sit and write in a café every day with a laptop. Later I found out that the town had no cafes, no libraries, no cinemas, no gyms. There is no Meituan takeaway, if you want to eat something, just buy it yourself. There is no Didi either, the streets are full of black cars and motorcycles. The lifestyle here is not the same as in the city, because none of the above is in demand here. For someone like me who has lived in the city for a long time, it has a run-in period. I rented a house by the river with a local. This is the first time I've lived by a river when I'm this big. Although the Puxi River is our mother river and can be seen throughout Zigong, when I was a child, I lived in the urban area and was far from the river. So much so that when I live here, I often worry that the river will spread in the summer. Once it rained so hard that it washed up the boats in the river. Seeing that the river was coming up more and more, almost level with my first floor, and there was no one guarding the river, I was very nervous and ran to the second floor with my luggage. For the first two months of living in the past, whenever it rained, I would sneak to the river at night to see if the water was overflowing. The town's continuous rainy season has caused the river to cross the cordon frequently. The "ubiquitous sense of crisis" that is about to flood into the home is a metaphor for women living in small towns. Talk to a man casually, and he will say that he should still have a son. Why do you have to have a son? He said his father-in-law died this year and as a result, no one came to help. Because others think that you only have two daughters in your family and no sons. Once it helps you, you won't be able to reciprocate it in the future. People will say in the most understated terms who drank and beat his wife, crippled his wife's hand. Not even a word of exclamation. In the countryside, every household has its doors open, and no one has the habit of asking about doors. They smiled and told me that diagonally opposite a crazy woman, a psychopath, her husband went out to work, and she stayed at home every day. When her husband came home one day, he found that she was being molested. The man who molested her was a patient at a nearby health center. There is a mental problem with the woman, she can't say it at all. People use particularly casual language to say these things that are shocking in the city. It's not that there are no in cities, but in a more civilized place, at least everyone may still have the opportunity to speak, or they will denounce and condemn with words. But there, you feel as if you are silent. When every family is overwhelmed by their own lives, they may not be alert and get used to it. These things made me feel that this environment was really different from where I used to be. I must continue to stay and continue to investigate.
■ On the opposite bank of the ancient town is a field of rape flowers.
-2- Every woman in town is an island
I talked to all kinds of townspeople to be friends, invited people to dinner and tea, attended their wedding banquets, blind dates, and funerals. Whenever I have the opportunity to talk to them, I will participate. Stay in one place long enough, and all these people you want to write about will emerge one by one like the stones that reveal themselves after the tide falls. As soon as I went, I heard that there was a woman named Granny Chen in the town, and everyone mysteriously said that she opened a cat shop, which is a special profession, and "cat" refers to sex workers. Since the 90s, Granny Chen has relied on this for a living, and it was not until the 2019 anti-pornography campaign ended. Granny Chen, 90, lives on one of the most remote streets in town, runs a kiosk selling popsicles and drinks, and never takes the initiative to tell anyone about her past. I really want to get to know Granny Chen, but as a stranger, you suddenly walk up to an old man and say I want to hear your story, maybe she will treat you as a neurotic, or that kind of curiosity. So I wasn't in a hurry either. I thought, I'll wait. I believe that if you live in town long enough, there will always be someone who knows her well. Sure enough, 3 months or 4 months before I left, I found that there were two people I knew who had a good relationship with Granny Chen. With the endorsement of acquaintances, Granny Chen told a lot about her. But she spoke about a special epidermis, with some perfunctory. Whenever I want to ask further questions, such as "Granny Chen, when did your cat shop open?" And she said, "What did you say? I can't hear." When she asked key questions, she said she couldn't hear them.
■ Mother-in-law Chen. I'm not in a hurry either. For 3 months, I went to see her every day, in the morning, at noon, and in the evening. When I went, I didn't have any obvious purpose. I think it is not easy for an old man, at such an age, to open a small shop here, sell popsicles, sell drinks, and be self-reliant. I talked to her, and it didn't matter if she didn't want to be interviewed. One day, Granny Chen said to me, "Can you do me a favor?" From under the bed she had put together on several benches, she pulled out a wooden box with lots of slimy coins. "I want to exchange this for money, but my children find it troublesome and reluctant," she said. I said, "It's okay, Granny Chen, I'll help you change." I washed the coins in the box one by one and counted them. At that time, I gave him the banknotes, and I explained that I would go to the bank by myself tomorrow, and in order to reassure you, I would give you the banknotes first. From that day on, she completely opened her heart to me. I suddenly understood that every time it was critical, she said that she couldn't hear it, which may be a survival wisdom for so many years. She needs to protect herself. Granny Chen's example is actually an example of my dealings with all these women. In the town, every woman is probably like Granny Chen, and everyone is an island. When you are willing to listen to them with kindness, when they have the desire to talk, they are willing to talk to you about something. The story of 12 women is recorded in "Salt Town", and in the book, I use age as descending order and era as ascending order to arrange the structure. Their memories span nearly a hundred years of the town's history.
-3 - Shackles
Senshi is a "place where men are relatively idle and unproductive, and marriage and poverty become a double noose around women's necks". The story of the 63-year-old Wang's wife is perhaps the most common epitome of the town's women. Born into a family of extreme poverty during the famine years, she married Sun Bulletsmith, who made a living playing cotton, at the age of 22. For Wang's wife, her husband's craft was the guarantee of life, and the two have since run a cotton shop in the town. When I first met Wang, she wore a dress that resembled a cheongsam and a pearl necklace. I thought at the time that this woman, although very old, still had a little bit of grace and beauty. There were many, many shops on that street, and she was always the first person on that street to open the doors. Outwardly, she is very neat and capable. Not long after I got to know her, I realized that she had something completely different from her appearance. Almost everyone in the town told me about her beating, saying that if she wore short sleeves or a skirt, she would often be seen bruised and purple. Wang's husband is a bulletmaker who plays cotton. He was a particularly unsightly, short man. It was such an unassuming man who slept with many, many women in town. He could scold Princess Wang for anything. Because she didn't want to be scolded by the bombsmith every day, Wang Da Wei would often cook a little food in the cotton shop by herself. One day, Sun Bombsmith came over and saw whether there was mutton or beef in the refrigerator, and he felt that Wang Da Wei had hidden something delicious and did not take it home. There were many people at the scene that day, all watching Sun Bulletsmith chase Wang Da Wei and beat him round and round. She is particularly superstitious about Avalokiteshvara, feeling that she has been protected by Avalokiteshvara all her life. In the worst case of domestic violence, she vomited a mouthful of blood and ran to Guanyin Bodhisattva to bow down. She said, "Bodhisattva, save me." Later, instead of going to the hospital, she recovered herself, and she felt that this was the Bodhisattva who rescued her.
■ People in the town used to burn incense to worship the bodhisattva. In modern terms, Wang Dawei is a person who has been pua by her husband. Years after being beaten, she went from being a victim to being the strongest supporter of the marriage system. She saw a neighbor fighting, and the man with a knife was going to cut his wife. My wife is going to get ready to run away from home, and the bags are ready. She dragged people back and said, "You can't divorce, you can't live without marriage," and persuaded her bitterly. Lady Wang had never resisted Sun Bulletsmith, and she felt that it was all fate. She also willingly put herself in this yoke. Once, I wanted to take Lady Wang to the city for a meal. She has to ask her husband for leave, ask her husband for approval, and have to calculate the time, such as going at 2 o'clock and coming back before 6 o'clock. I said, "What if we go back later, what if you don't work today?" She said, "If I don't work, no one will work, and I am in a hurry every time." Her body reflects the thinking of many women in the town, especially older women, "This is my life, I can't get rid of such a life I will recognize". In her social experience and network, no one told her that domestic violence was a crime. She would go to the fortune teller to look at the face, and the fortune teller would tell her every time, "You can't get rid of marriage in this life, the man is still very good, he just has a little temper." I have told her more than once, "Do you know how serious this kind of domestic violence is, you absolutely cannot bear it." She can feel your kindness, but more logic and reason are too abstract for her, and she will only think that you are a good sister. I remember Mrs. Wang saying, "I don't want to tell people about that, because people will laugh at you." This is her mantra. She would also say, "If I wasn't with him, who would support my parents in the early years?" So I think their real predicament and difficulties are not as simple as us watching from the other side and saying, why don't you resist.
■ Women in the town often carry baskets on their backs and carry heavy objects. Grandma Wang's life was too dark, so she had to find a little light for herself. She especially likes to sing, especially the national K song, and often sends it to me. Her house is upstairs and downstairs, and she often lives alone upstairs to record TikTok. She especially likes to record some small videos that are completely different from herself, with different beauty shots and headgear, singing some particularly grand and cheerful songs, and every time she records herself, she is happy. Maybe it's because she still wants others to know and see some of her brighter face. I think for Lady Wang, crying is useless, why can't she find a little happiness for herself? I wrote in the book in Yanzhen, "Maybe the short time she sings and records videos is the only time of the day she can spend with herself." "Since last year, she has stopped washing clothes for Sun. Even if he couldn't use the washing machine, she didn't care anymore. At least, this is the first small rebellion in her life," is the end of the story of Wang Dawei in the book.
-4 - Who has seen salmon in the Puxi River
Salmon is a sea creature that most likely does not appear in the rivers of Zigong, just as the word "homosexuality" hardly exists in the vocabulary of the people of Senshi Town. Therefore, the love between 52-year-old Tong Hui and 54-year-old Li Hongmei also has no name. Tong Hui, who works in the city government, has been a famous beauty in the town since she was a child, and she is also an outlier in this town. She is a noble person and feels that it is meaningless to find a man to rely on, and to "marry a husband and rely on one master". And Li Hongmei is a teacher in Xianshi, and her first half of her life has gone through the common trajectory of getting married and having children. Until the age of 23, the moment I first met Tong Hui. It was Hongmei's most memorable day. "One day in 1991 I was on the playground and suddenly I heard a girl laughing there, and then I turned to see her talking to another girl on the edge of the playground, and I was suddenly hit," she said. I love this woman, she is mine." From that day on, Hongmei completed her sexual awakening. She found it incredible, and there was no one to ask. When she first fell in love with Tong Hui, she should have suffered from depression and couldn't sleep all night long. She accidentally saw that her brother had a monthly novel magazine that chronicled a gay story. She was secretly at that time, and after reading it twice like a treasure, she realized that I was not the only one in this world. When talking to me about this, I asked her, "Have you ever seen Ang Lee's movie Duan Back Mountain"? "I've never heard of it," she said. I told her, "There is nothing to feel incredible, or inferiority and resistance, as long as it is a good feeling, it is worth cherishing." Tong Hui's understanding of her identity is far lower than Hongmei's awareness of her identity. After I got to know Tong Hui for a while, I asked her directly one day. I said, "Everyone else says you and Li Hongmei are gay, are you two?" She blushed and said "No, of course not". She was panicked. She later told me that no one had ever asked her so directly. Tong Hui can be said to be disdainful of these men in the town. So when she met her first such strong feelings, care and love, I felt that her acceptance was a natural process. I think Tong Hui is not necessarily the kind of natural homosexuality, but more of a very precious feeling. Because she kept saying that if I met a guy who was as good to me as she was, I might be with him too. After meeting Tong Hui, Hongmei filed for divorce from her husband and began her pursuit of Tong Hui. Tong Hui has never met anyone who is so kind to her in her life, and she calls Hongmei just her "good friend", but the two gradually begin to eat and live together, living together like a pair of lovers. In fact, in the township, people don't quite understand what homosexuality is, and I don't hear anyone who knows about this have that so-called disgust. The people in the town are actually more pity for Tong Hui. Because Tong Hui is a beautiful woman, they feel that with her conditions, they can find a man with good conditions. Tong Hui's family also tried to introduce her boyfriend and wanted her to go on a blind date. They think that Hongmei has at least a son, but Tong Hui you don't, so no one gives you a pension. It can be seen that the problem they are worried about is far from being a homosexual problem, but a problem in marriage and family. Hongmei will go to Tong Hui's house to make trouble, and she will not be allowed to go on a blind date. I guess maybe the so-called identity is important to Hongmei. She used to want to come out and tell the world that I love this woman. She also thought about whether to take Tong Hui outside, and he thought that if we went to a bigger place, or to the city, would we not have to be sneaky like in town. I can openly declare that we are a couple and that this is my lover. But they eventually found it too hard to get out. They tried, but the rhythm of life in the city could not keep up with the people in the city, so they dismissed the idea and returned to the town. Hongmei also once proposed to let Tong Hui go out with her and go to a remote place to support teaching, and in a few years, she would do whatever she wanted, without shying away from talking about their relationship life. But Tong Hui was reluctant to go out. Among the two, Tong Hui is a particularly closed person. She has exactly the same rhythm every day, 365 days a year, living exactly the same life. She has few friends other than family. Because of Tong Hui, Hongmei is now becoming more and more homely, and has fewer and fewer friends. She herself said, "I became another child." There are so many things that trap them. Living habits, perception of society, including really going to the big city, with their existing work ability, whether they can achieve economic independence. And staying in the town, the biggest difficulty for the two is actually the trivial matters of specific life. Tong Hui has always belonged to the kind of person who is very anxious and insecure. She thinks, "Hongmei, you take the money to support your son, what will happen to us in the future"? And this relationship gradually became more and more similar to other heterosexuals. Hongmei became "more and more like most of the men in town," drinking, smoking, playing cards, and sometimes even playing Tong Hui. I have seen photos of Hongmei's early years, especially sweet, long hair, and dimples, and her body is very slender. I think it's a pity that when she completes this sexual awakening, she is conscious and wants to get closer to the male direction. I don't know if she subconsciously felt that I wanted to become a so-called male with physical characteristics, so that I could appear powerful and I could protect Tong Hui. To become a man, she must refer to the men of this town. The men in this town smoke, drink and beat women, so she unknowingly changed from the "weak" side to the male side. You will see Tong Hui's compromise with Hongmei. Because Hongmei drank, Tong Hui only silently helped her home every time, and the two would quarrel because of this. Hongmei occasionally compromises, not to quit smoking, but to hide in the kitchen and turn on the range hood when smoking. I said to Hongmei, "You have to be mentally prepared. Writing this story, I must be on Tong Hui's side. Because she is a woman, I am also a woman, and you are a husband." Her approval of this sentence shows that she knows her role, which is how she believes it. Hongmei is a very reflective person. In fact, I believe that after I write it down, maybe Hongmei can only realize this when she sees it. Hongmei sent me a text message the other day, and she said, "I recently watched the Brokeback Mountain you recommended with me, and I was very moved. After reading it, I thought, our forms are different, but the feelings are really the same. After so many years between me and Tong Hui, it was hard to get to where we are today, and I will cherish this relationship for the rest of my life." In fact, I have pinned a little hope on Tong Hui and Hongmei for this so-called female self-awakening. I hope they don't care about outsiders' eyes, or if I'm in this little lotus pond, I'm just going to be a "salmon against the current".
■ Pass through the Puxi River in the ancient town.
-5 - Self-help
There are so many rivers and streets in this place, and life has its own source, its own way. The younger generation of women actually has the opportunity to leave. Liang Xiaoqing, 35, runs a nail and beauty shop in town. As soon as I got to know her, I thought this girl was very beautiful and beautiful. She has a very high emotional intelligence and will look at you very gently, but if you look at her eyes, you know that she understands, but she doesn't say it. Then one day, Liang Xiaoqing suddenly said to me, "You know what? I haven't even read a book." I said how is it possible, I've seen her write, I think it's quite good. She said that when I was in the first semester of primary school, my father suddenly came back to me one day and said, "Your grandfather has seen it, our family's feng shui can't produce readers, so you don't want to read anymore." Her father was a hairdresser at the time, and the business was very stable, and the family was not without money. Just because of ignorance, she was not allowed to study. Liang Xiaoqing's life is completely self-helping, she began to study by herself at home, go to the library by herself, read everything, and think about it again after reading it. I said, "Why are you doing this?" "Actually, I don't really say anything, but I will always remember when I wasn't studying, everyone around me would laugh at me," she said. The postman took my letter to me, and he would say a word of letter, can you understand it? You still receive letters." Her primitive desire may just be to get rid of the ridicule of others, just to become a person like everyone else. When I was in the second, third, second and third grades of primary school, one day Liang Xiaoqing followed her friends to school to play, and the teacher saw a strange face coming, probably wanting to test her, so she came up with a question. No other students would like that question, and Liang Xiaoqing answered it at once. The teacher said to her parents, "Your child is quite talented and smart, can you let her study"? Her dad just kept shaking his head. In the 80s, basic education had spread to townships, and only two post-80s people in Xianshi Town had not read, one of whom was Liang Xiaoqing. Her father had been suppressing her and had never given her any guidance on life. She wasn't given any proper clothes, any proper shoes. Her mother has no financial power, so she goes to the mountains to dig wild vegetables and sell them in exchange for a little money. Liang Xiaoqing's father is stubborn and suspicious, "if you are not used to hearing it, you will quarrel, and if you quarrel, you will do it." When she went to work in the factory when she was 16 years old, the first thing she did was to ask the people in the factory if they could apply for a dormitory, and the people in the factory said yes, she asked if she could move her mother over, and the people in the factory said yes. She jumped home and said to her mother, "Let's get out of here, don't be with dad, can you go live in the factory with me?" Her mother cried and said, "No, I can't divorce your father." Her mother is the same as the women of Grandma Wang's time, and she feels that divorce is the last thing a woman should choose and should not consider. Liang Xiaoqing said that in order to protect her mother, she could not go to other cities. "If I can't be with my mom, I don't know if she'll bully her again," she said. These women in town, if they are to really run, it will not be an easy task. They are too deeply tied to the land and family in their towns.
■ Liang Xiaoqing, owner of the nail salon.
When he was 18 years old, Liang Xiaoqing's father was hit and disabled by a wrong-moving tricycle. In order to take care of her mother and ten-year-old brother, she worked as a waitress in Zigong to support her family. Between restaurants and hospitals, "life has been torn open overnight." She got married at 19, and she actually had nothing to pick out. At that time, her husband chased her, and her mother thought that this husband was very good, "take money to spend on her, don't beat her." I have met Liang Xiaoqing's husband several times. You can't say he's a bad guy, but he's a mediocre man. Ordinary looking, ordinary height, ordinary work, living in his own small world, when I saw him, I was brushing TikTok. His hobby in life is to catch rabbits and chase hares like hunting. After marrying him, Liang Xiaoqing was actually very undignified for a long time. She wanted to go shopping when she was pregnant, and her husband looked at her and scolded, "If you don't go out to play, you will die"? This is a sentence full of disgust and dissatisfaction. After she gave birth, she told her husband that she would go to Zigong to learn hairdressing and beauty, and felt that she had to have a technique and be able to support herself. On the first day of beauty and makeup, after she finished her makeup, the teacher showed her paintings to everyone. Say, you see, this is the first time people have drawn eyebrows so well. This is the first time in Liang Xiaoqing's life that he has been encouraged and affirmed in more than 20 years. She brought a friend to the house, and when the friend put on makeup, her father-in-law would be particularly disdainful. Her father-in-law is also a particularly macho person, belonging to the kind of person who plays around outside and catches her mother-in-law back to cook when she is tired of playing. All the men, father, husband, father-in-law, make up this oppressive and closed environment around Liang Xiaoqing. In the township, I saw them a lot, they were beautiful, handsome, and very capable, but the husbands they married did not match them, just because they could only meet such men in that environment. Liang Xiaoqing will consciously contact new things, she is full of curiosity about the outside world. Until now, every year as long as she could get out, she would let herself study in the big city. "The technology I learned is completely adequate in this place, but I have to keep up with the technology," she said. She will also often learn on videos to see how others wear makeup, how many shapes there are eyebrows, and what eyebrows are popular now. Her kind of makeup and nail art skills are not at all inferior to those girls in beauty and nail salons in big cities. Liang Xiaoqing's daughter is still in elementary school, and she discusses with her daughter about love, marriage, and family. She would say, "Look how good Aunt Ho is. In the future, you have to be like her, you can't get married and have children at an early age like your mother, you have to think and see more, so that you will not regret it in the future." Xiaoqing gave me hope that the new era would have an impact on the younger generation of women in the town. She has a conscious awakening, "I want to be an independent woman, I want to be able to support myself, I want my mother to have a voice in this family."
-6- Women stop bleeding, men sprinkle salt
At the back, I really felt like I was part of the town, I didn't think about what kind of journalist I was, what task I had to accomplish, I felt like I was their sister. The burden on them is simply too heavy. So much so that when you see their daily tribulations, everyone looks down into an abyss. I hurt. They get used to it, because every day is like that. Salt in Sichuan means a lot, it is the root of all tastes, there is a saying that Sichuanese people are the salt of the world. When I named the book, I thought that if salt is the color of life, it is the smell of sweat in my mind. The people here, mainly women, are working and struggling 365 days a day, and that is the smell of sweat. So I thought, I'm going to call this book Salt Town. Life in Yanzhen is a series of wounds, women desperately trying to stop the bleeding, men desperately sprinkling salt. I really think the road to feminism is too long. In the second half of my life, I may want to record more as a writer, and may speak for more women. Let more people who have love and kindness to others see and hear. This book is written for those who care about the fate of others, and I hope it will inspire everyone to pay attention to the fate of others. Because we are not footnotes or material for history, we are history itself.
Book donation benefits, what kind of unfair "women's encounters" have you seen in your hometown and family? You are welcome to share in the message area, we will draw 3 wonderful commenters on March 21, and each will give away 1 copy of "Salt Town".
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