Returning to the BALENCIAGA 23 winter runway itself, Creative Director Demna reflects on her approach to making her first pair of trousers, bringing a lot of deconstructed designs to it, and retracing the history of the brand's haute couture, and "sharing" with loyal fan Ye can see the meaning behind this season's hot talk.
23 Winter keywords: Demna's pants feeling, continuing to bring couture closer x street, the most expensive boots ever...
"First pants" made by Demna,
To this season's pants suit, pants jacket, 4 pants
The 23 Winter series is regarded by Demna as "200% of me", in this season, Demna recalled "the pants he made in his childhood", which was also the first costume he made in his life, so he cut off a bunch of pants, using deconstruction techniques as the starting point of 23 Winter, cleverly using the "waist part of the pants" as the hem of the suit and the cuffs of jeans, creating more than ten sets of de-structured, using "deconstructed pants" as a way to return to the piece itself and focus on making clothes;
23 Winter, suits deconstructed by trousers, jackets deconstructed by jeans
At the same time, the pants with "4 cuffs" produce a flowing effect as they move, and once again use the Blizzard show's "fake two-piece hem design" school uniform jacket and "trouser part deconstruction" skirt, which can't help but recall the "Margiela style deconstruction" of the Vetements period and the "Demna-style fun transformation" of BLCG in the past.
Top, 23 winter trousers / medium, 23 winter parts deconstructed, fake two-piece stitching
Next, VTM 18FW parts deconstructed, BLCG previous season fake two pieces splicing
A tribute to Balenciaga's haute couture heritage with modern racing equipment
After Balenciaga resumed "couture" in 2021, Demna tried her best to dig into the bits and pieces of Cristóbal Balenciaga's couture period, the 23rd winter Inflatable Jacket, inspired by the hourglass, cocoon-shaped couture silhouette created by Cristóbal Balenciaga in the 50s, using the Inflatable airbag technology in "modern racing equipment" to inflate the air chambers of the shoulders, back, and hem, "Three-dimensional structure" in tribute to Mr. Balenciaga;
On, 23 winter inflatable leather coat
Inflatable Jacket uninflated / inflatable state demonstration, Balenciaga created an hourglass, cocoon-shaped silhouette
The other two "inflatable down" and "inflatable sweatshirt" that players are hotly discussed are equipped with an air pump connected to the inflatable system, and the degree of expansion can be adjusted, with the functional technology of motorcycle airbags, to create a more exaggerated inflatable and shrugging effect, so that the once unattainable couture is connected with the fun of Generation Z players.
Top/middle, 23 winter inflatable sweatshirt, inflatable down
Next, motorcycle protective clothing Inflatable technology, the previous shrug effect
The "round shoulders" that shorten the couture and street distance, and the "functionality" of Demna's everyday aesthetic
For a long time, the use of "shoulder pad design" to increase the sense of drama is Demna's good aesthetic language, following square shoulders, flat shoulders, pagodas, 23 winter brings a large number of Round Shoulder round shoulder designs, and connects the "street sports suit" and "traditional dress" two parts in the runway, paying tribute to haute couture, sharing round shoulder design is also Demna's way to shorten the history of haute couture and distance from streetwear;
On, 23 winter 3B round shoulder set
Down, 23 winter embellished beaded round shoulder dress
23 Winter also continues to refine "functional designs" from everyday life, such as the Speed Cat mask sunglasses inspired by goggles, Fennec Oval pinna sunglasses, and the "Detachable Micro-Horn Cargo" with outdoor 2-Way design;
Top/middle, 23 winter Speed Cat, Fennec Oval sunglasses
Down, 23 winter micro-horn Cargo
and this season's Biker Boots, which has the highest discussion on social media, based on the "motocross boots" redesign, the shoe body is similar to the Excavator rain boots that debuted in 20 years, extreme sports details are reminiscent of the Racing Bomber of the Vetements 18AW, full leather material, aging treatment, and breathable valve details on the side of the shoe, quite ingenious, priced at up to $7,000, which is also "the most expensive boot in BLCG history";
Up/Middle, 23 Winter Biker Boots
Below,Previous Excavator Galoshes VTM 18AW Racing Bomber
The Ye of the Divine Hidden returns to share,
Look 44 with millions of likes,
Become the hottest look,
It also explains the implications of this season's design:
After experiencing controversy, Ye repeatedly expressed his loyalty to creative director Demna on social media, and still went to stores to shop to support Balenciaga, after which YE and his wife Bianca Censori "hidden" on social media until the release of Ye returned to IG in the winter of 23, screenshotted the show Look 44, and po "write a headline" to give the right to comment to fans;
Ye's sharing triggered a frenzy among social media players, and the post received a total of millions of likes + 80,000 comments, a large number of fans ridiculed "Kanye who lost weight", "Ye clones", and some players said that "this is Ye personally unveiled the foreshadowing laid by Demna", reminiscent of the cloning theme of BLCG 22SS replacing the face - suggesting the authenticity of what we see on the Internet;
On Yeezy Season 9 styling
Next, BLCG 23 Winter and Yeezy Season 9
Similar tights + high boots
The two largest Donda fan accounts also pointed out that this is Demna's tribute to Ye's design, and many sets of tight looks in winter 23 all adopt "Yeezy Season 9 style + round shoulder design", and are similar to Yeezy Season 9 with high boots, which is speculated by senior players that Demna wants to bring "Ye's creativity" back to the runway;
At that time, Yeezy Season 9 Paris press conference, Ye with a "out of Paris fashion week" show, proving that "Yeezy is more powerful than the Paris fashion system", the show invited Demna and other 50 fashion voices, the show can feel the functional design of BLCG x Yeezy Gap, but unlike Demna this season, YZYSZN9 is more futuristic aesthetics;
Demna watches and discusses Yeezy Season 9 up close
In the high-praise comments of the post, some players analyzed Ye's motives: "Let everyone comment, because no matter what Ye says, there will always be controversy, and people who take it out of context don't want to understand the message conveyed by Ye at all", Ye's post, the surface meaning does point to Yeezy Season 9, but it is more like a proof of "Demna and Ye's long-term mutual influence";
In Balenciaga season, Demna reflects on the beginning of her design career, the history of Cristóbal Balenciaga, Ye's influence in the creative world, and in a runway without a star lineup and online meme, "all tribute" is contained in the details of 23 winter pieces.