Only food and love can not be disappointed, and those who can make Gao Qiqiang fall madly in love are surnamed Chen.
The first is sister-in-law Chen Shuting, and the second is Chen Pi.
If you have to add a qualifier to Tangerine Peel, it is Xinhui Tangerine Peel!
Gao Qiqiang's tangerine peel to Tai Uncle Amway is Xinhui tangerine peel
Source/"Crazy" stills
How expensive is Xinhui tangerine peel? According to two sales, the price can be tens of thousands, in recent years, even set auction records, from 2011 to 2020, the "Chen Pihuang" from Xinhui, the auction price soared from 550,000 to 2 million a catty, shocking the audience.
Foraging in Guangdong, you may miss pork foot noodles, but you'll be hard-pressed to miss tangerine peel.
It can be used in the kitchen, and it is the most common seasoning, hidden in the beautiful soup, sugar water, and even snacks of the old Guang pot; When your Guangdong Friends take out the ten-year-old tangerine peel to brew tea for you, please cherish your friendship, because this small piece of skin is not only expensive, but also rare.
Xinhui Tenma Village
It is one of the core production areas of Xinhui tangerine peel
Photo/Visual China
What is the charm of this little piece of "citrus peel"? We walked into Xinhui, the hometown of "Chen Pihuang", to find out.
One or two tangerine peels and one or two gold
Centennial Tan Pisai Gold
"One or two tangerine peels and one or two gold, a hundred years of tangerine peel gold", to ask how expensive is the tangerine peel that is regarded as a treasure by the old people? Cantonese people will tell you with real life experience:
"The Cantonese came to testify that if you break Grandma's tangerine peel, you will really be beaten with slippers."
"The people of Xinhui in Guangdong said that the most precious dowry is tangerine peel."
"I heard that a neighbor called the police and arrested his son because he stole the family's heirloom, Chen Pi."
"The standard for measuring local tycoons in Guangdong is not to see how many apartments he has, but to see how many tangerine peels he has."
……
The tangerine peel that Lao Guang placed on the cabinet cannot be touched
These are their treasures
Photo/Visual China
At this time, you looked at the freshly peeled orange peel in your hand: "Do you want to keep the homemade tangerine peel?" The Cantonese were horrified: "No, this is not Chen Pi!" ”
Not just any kind of orange peel can be made into tangerine peel, special varieties of citrus is the best raw material for making tangerine peel, among them, and tea branch mandarin (guang tangerine peel raw material), Da Hong Pao (Sichuan tangerine peel raw material), Wenzhou honey orange (Zhejiang tangerine peel raw material), Fu orange (Jian tangerine peel raw material) these four citrus varieties are representative.
The "Guang Tangerine Peel" with tea branch mandarin as raw material is unique, and its status is above other tangerine peels, and the quality of Xinhui Tangerine Peel is the "aristocracy" in "Guang Tangerine Peel", and in terms of price, it is naturally "noble" and pressing.
Compared to other citrus varieties
Xinhui tea citrus oil cells are fuller and evenly arranged
Authentic Shinhui tangerine peel
They are all made with tea mandarins grown in Shinkai
And it must be dried in Xinhui and aged for more than three years
Above: New Year's orange, bottom: Tea mandarin branch
Above/Figureworm Creative Photography/Fu Haiyan Below/Huitu.com
Yes, in the eyes of Lao Guang, only the tangerine peel produced in Xinhui is the most beautiful and authentic, and the most worthy of collection.
Xinhui, a low-key Pearl River Delta town, has both "three water integration" - the Xijiang and Tan rivers meet here, the Haihe River is connected here, and every December to March before the spring flood, the South China Sea tide is irrigated, forming an annual salty tide, according to locals, these "salty water" may be the key to growing Xinhui tea citrus branches.
According to the local villagers of Xinhui
The place where the Xiongzi Pagoda (Lingyun Pagoda) in Chakeng Village can see
The planted tea branch mandarin (Shinkai mandarin) is the "good orange"
Photo by Zhang Xiangliang
After years of domestication and breeding, the unique qualities of Xinhui tea mandarin have finally been shaped - thick and firm peel, large oil cells, full oil chamber, large volatile oil content, and fragrant. Compared with citrus varieties such as Da Hong Pao and Wenzhou Mikan, tea branch mandarin is indeed a unique and excellent tangerine peel material.
There are Guifeng Mountain Range, Gudu Mountain Range in the south and Niuguling Mountain Range "surrounded by three mountains", forming a unique "wet basin" microclimate, combined with the oceanic climate, creating a climate characteristics of alternating dry and wet and alternating hot and cold, from June to November every year, sunny and dry, it is a good time to dry new skins, and the rest of the time is just used for aging.
Map/Sun Lu
Every tea citrus harvest season is undoubtedly the most lively time of the year for Xinhui. At this time of year, "big bosses" from all over the country will besiege Xinhui's citrus orchards, and they all have a common purpose - to snap up freshly released "orange peels".
Yes, the tea citrus fruits that grow up in the new club are all "skin laughing meat does not smile", mandarin peels can be sold for dozens of pieces, as for the pulp, you can buy a bag for 1 yuan. But in the circle of citrus peels, there are also clear hierarchies, and those picked at the beginning of autumn until the frost falls are called "green skin", those picked when the frost falls to the light snow are called "two red skins", and those picked after the light snow are called "big red skins".
When the tea citrus is still in the state of green skin, dig out the pulp, fill it with Pu'er tea, dry and age, you can make "small green orange" or citrus tea; When the peel changes from green to yellow-green, the tea branch mandarin at this time is upgraded to "two red skin", and the maturity is just right, which is the most common raw material for tangerine peel; After the tea branch orange is fully ripe, the citrus peel reaches its best state, which is the "big red skin", and the tangerine peel made from the "big red skin" is the most precious.
When the tea branch mandarin is ripe
It is the busiest time for Xinhui fruit farmers
Photo/Visual China
In order to perfectly separate the skin and flesh of the citrus fruit, the process of peeling is also very particular. In Xinhui, there are two traditional peeling methods that cannot be replaced by machines: symmetrical two-knife method and positive three-knife method.
The two-knife method requires the fruit stem to face up, symmetrically reverse arc from both sides of the fruit shoulder, into three petals, leave the bottom of the fruit connected, and peel off the peel; The positive three-knife method is the fruit stem facing down, from the top of the fruit to the fruit stem three longitudinal cuts, leaving the fruit stem part connected, the positive three lobes peel off.
These two knife methods achieve the balance of the three petals of the peel while avoiding scratching the flesh, which not only preserves the integrity of the citrus peel, but also gives the Xinhui tangerine peel the shape of stretching like a flower petal. The three-petal peel is also a unique symbol of Xinhui tangerine peel.
Top: Two-sword method, Bottom: three-sword method
Photo/Visual China
After the tangerine peel is completely opened, it can enter the link of peeling and drying. "When the autumn breeze rises, dry the tangerine peel." In the humid and rainy Lingnan area, long-term continuous sunny and dry weather is scarce, so in Xinhui after autumn every year, wherever the sun goes, there must be tangerine peel.
After the new skin is dried, some Xinhui people will string the citrus peel, hang it on the stove and smoke it with fireworks, or hang it in the corner of a cool and dry room to let it naturally dissipate the "heat", and then put it in a breathable sack, or put it in a tin or glass jar for storage. As long as it is dry and ventilated, off the ground, off the wall, and off the roof, it is suitable for citrus peel aging.
Drying tangerine peels after autumn is the top priority for Xinhui people
Photo/Visual China
Is it over after drying? No, the last step is to become a citrus peel - aging, and before aging, there is a period of time - more than three years. The tangerine peel that is aging (within 5 years) should also be taken out for re-drying every year, and regularly taken care of to prevent mildew and insects, which is also the core of Xinhui tangerine peel's insistence on "natural drying and natural aging".
After layers of tangerine peel and careful care, what follows is a long wait, which requires patience and time, after three years, five years, ten years, twenty years... It has aged over the years, and it is getting more and more expensive. According to the "Chinese Pharmacopoeia", Guangchen peel also has the medicinal effect of regulating qi and strengthening the spleen, drying and humidifying phlegm, and has a wonderful effect in the treatment of abdominal distension, vomiting, coughing phlegm, and Lao Guang regards it as the most precious treasure, and rightfully so.
The older the tangerine peel, the more valuable it is
5 years tangerine peel 331 yuan ~ 787 yuan a catty
10 years tangerine peel 825 yuan ~ 1960 yuan a catty
20 years of tangerine peel can be sold for tens of thousands of yuan a catty
Cartography/Jiuyang Photography/Qianmu
In this way, day after day, year after year, every year there are new skins, every day there are tangerine peels, with a small piece of skin, Xinhui people gradually saved up "tens of billions of family businesses". Until 2021, the total output value of the whole industry chain of Xinhui tangerine peel was 14.5 billion yuan, more than 10 times higher than the 1.1 billion yuan of West Lake Longjing tea.
When it comes to the skyrocketing value of Xinhui tangerine peel, we have to mention the story of the "marriage" between tangerine peel and tea.
Tangerine peel meets tea
It's like Cuong falling in love with Ah Ting
Gao Qiqiang in "Crazy", when he first met Chen Shuting, he glanced at 10,000 years, and after the two got married, with the support of Ah Ting, Ah Qiang gradually transformed into the number one boss in Jinghai, his value skyrocketed, and he also drank good tangerine peel tea.
According to the different peels, citrus tea is divided into green orange pu-erh and red mandarin pu-erh
Photography / Army Picture / Picture Bug · Creativity
Tangerine peel once again ushered in the highlight of "Pi Sheng", which also began with its encounter with tea.
Of course, "single" tangerine peel also has its own charm, as a common Chinese medicinal herb, tangerine peel can be soaked in water alone, citrus fragrant, dissipating food and moisturizing the throat, is a frequent guest in the Cantonese thermos cup, "Crazy" drama A Qiang drinks tangerine peel water.
Cartography/Jiuyang
Tangerine peel into tea, the taste is also excellent. Xinhui tangerine peel has many types of volatile oil, with a strong citrus aroma, after more than three years of aging, the citrus peel becomes tangerine peel, and the taste is condensed and restrained. As the year increases, the smell of tangerine peel gradually becomes softer and warmer, and it has a more fragrant taste, while the old tangerine peel becomes more medicinal. Therefore, tangerine peel is more suitable for old white tea, black tea, ripe pu and other "old guys" who have also been immersed in the years.
If you like a more fruity aroma, you can choose a tangerine peel with a smaller vintage
I like the medicine to have a stronger aroma and do not care about the price
You can choose older tangerine peels
Photo/Visual China
In addition to Guang Chen peel, Sichuan Chen Peel, Zhejiang Chen Peel, etc. can also be used in tea.
The mellow sweetness of old white tea meets the citrus aroma of tangerine peel, which can bring the experience of sweetness and mellowness, creating a light and elegant taste, which is the "secret recipe" that many old tea customers like; The mellow and smooth ripe pu collides with tangerine peel, the mellow aroma of pu'er and the citrus fragrance of tangerine peel are released and fused in hot water, fragrant and smooth in the throat, which is a perfect match.
Old white tea with old tangerine peel
Boiling in a pot works better and tastes more mellow
Photography / Light Dust Picture / Picture Bug · Creativity
Coincidentally, after 2000, the Xinhui citrus industry entered a period of rapid decline, and almost at the same time, the sales of ripe tea in Pu'er also struggled. And citrus peel and puer, a citrus scented Gurry, a tea flavor mellow, are in the land of Guangdong, have their own loyal fans, in a chance encounter, they hit it off on Lao Guang's tea table, incarnating as "citrus tea".
The innovative "marriage" of Xinhui's mandarin peel and Yunnan Pu'er brings a new taste experience to Laoguang: sweet and sweet in the mouth, and the mellow fruity aroma of Xinhui mandarin in the aftertaste, which makes people addicted.
Subsequently, the fresh citrus fruit was hollowed out to remove the flesh, and the tea leaves and citrus peel were added to dry together, and gradually spread in Xinhui, citrus white, citrus red, citrus oolong and other citrus teas came into being, and different teas rushed to this "citrus tea marriage feast", and the novel and simple taste swept the country.
The Internet celebrity "Xiaoqingtang" is a perfect combination of green oranges and Pu'er tea
It has both the light aroma of citrus peel and the mellow taste of Pu'er
It is the favorite of many young tea lovers
Photo/Visual China
Tangerine peel with a "universal CP" physique can be combined with different teas, giving people infinite surprises. What Cantonese people fall in love with is the versatile character of Chen Pi, such a good thing, how can Lao Guang, who "takes food as the sky", let go? So, with the efforts of generations of Guangdong foodies, tangerine peel gradually integrated into Lao Guang's gourmet feast.
Tangerine peel into the dish
The taste of Lao Guang that melts into the palate
If the Fujianese people next door have their own tea flavor, then the Cantonese people are tangerine peel flavor.
Cantonese life is soaked in the smell of tangerine peel throughout the day. Early in the morning, it is a bowl of pork bone porridge with tangerine peel slowly cooked; At noon, it is integrated into the hands of the stewed crispy, fragrant but not greasy tangerine peel pig, and after the meal, a cup of Pu'er tea, savor it, and there is also the fragrance of tangerine peel in the tea; During tea time, it transforms into a fragrant and thick red bean paste with tangerine peel; In the evening, it is hidden in the pork belly soup with tangerine peel lotus seeds that Grandma has cooked for the afternoon.
Add the pork bone porridge cooked with tangerine peel
Mellow and soft, fragrant and appetizing
Specializes in picky eaters
Photo/Visual China
But if you look closely, you will find that tangerine peel is rarely seen in these old Canton delicacies, because it has long been invisible, hiding the citrus aroma in the taste of playmates.
For example, the tangerine duck is only popular in Guangdong. The duck is delicious, but it has a fishy smell and is difficult to cook, but this is not a problem in the face of the broad tangerine peel that is good at removing fishiness. When the fragrance of tangerine peel completely enters the duck meat, the duck meat is rich in aroma, even with a hint of sweetness, and it is not greasy to eat, which makes people's teeth fragrant.
Sweet and mellow tangerine duck
Cantonese people love it so much
Photography / Tao gluttony unconsciously Photo/Picture worm · creativity
The steamed fish with tangerine peel is a high-end embodiment of Lao Guang cuisine fish. Cantonese people working outside, coming home from work, taking out the East Star Spot just bought from the seafood market, adding tangerine peel to steam together, ten minutes later, and then boiling oil to stimulate the aroma of fish and tangerine peel, a fast dish with the unique delicacy of the hometown is served, the fresh aroma of fish meat with the fragrance of tangerine peel, melts in the mouth, fresh but not greasy, the familiar old Cantonese type and the heart of the wanderer are closely connected, instantly making people want to go home and hug their mother...
The degreasing and flavoring of tangerine peel is second to none in the culinary industry, and the salty, sweet and delicious tangerine peel powder also shines in the sweet circle.
Salty, sweet and appetizing tangerine peel powder, sweet and delicious
Tangerine peel powder cold tomatoes, tangerine peel powder ice cream
Just thinking about it makes me salivate
Photography / Turi Picture / Picture worm · Creativity
On a hot day, find a dessert shop on the street and sit down, when you are hesitating whether to choose red bean tangerine peel milk or cool it, a voice sounded on the next table: "Boss, come to a bowl of tangerine peel red bean paste!" "Yes, tangerine peel red bean paste is also a classic Lao Guang dessert! After slow boiling red beans, go to the clothes and sand, eat dense and delicate, tangerine peel is full of aroma, and then continue a bowl after eating, sweet and sweet, cool and cool, and say goodbye to the heat.
In addition, in front of the "schoolboy grabber", the ice cream machine, you can hear: "Boss, I want an ice cream with tangerine peel." "The ice cream scattered with grated tangerine peel powder, sweet and sweet with the sweetness and saltiness of tangerine peel powder, is also the ultimate cooling experience.
Tangerine peel red bean paste, sweet and creamy
Cold and warm can be eaten, suitable for both winter and summer
Photo/Visual China
This is the charm of tangerine peel, to be precise, Xinhui tangerine peel.
The year is shorter, the fruity aroma is distinct, in the kitchen, it is willing to play a supporting role, freshening and increasing the flavor; Aged leather, calm and low-key and mellow in aroma, it is a happy enjoyment at your fingertips.
It accumulates in the ordinary life of Lao Guang, aged as a precious gift over the years, it can be very noble, it can also belong to ordinary people, in the final analysis, it is its simple and unpretentious character, so that countless people have a soft spot for it.
Tangerine peel is mild
It can be combined with many food and nourishment items
It is a frequent guest on the ordinary people's table and tea table
Photography/Xu Jie Photo/Figureworm · Creativity
Text | Shimei
Edit | Ou Hantian, Shi Mei
Image editing | No
Head image, cover image photography | Visual China
Resources
DB4407/T 70-2021《Geographical indication products Xinhui tangerine peel》
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