On the afternoon of February 24, Beijing time, TOD'S Fall/Winter 2023 collection opened at Hangar Bicocca in Milan as scheduled. Several yellowed montages were released before the show, from floral chicks to Milanese streetscapes, to TOD'S's proud leather craftsmanship, and the moment when the precious memories of the fashion house were awakened will also lead people to the location of the Fall/Winter 2023 show.
▲Creative director Walter Chiapponi and brand spokesperson Xiao Zhan
▲Brand spokesperson Xiao Zhan
With Diego Della Valle, founder and president of TOD'S Group
▲Brand spokesperson Liu Shishi and creative director Walter Chiapponi
Diego Della Valle, founder and president of TOD'S Group
With brand spokesperson Liu Shishi
It is worth mentioning that the two most shining guests in the first row, brand spokespersons Xiao Zhan and Liu Shishi, also revisited the Apennine Peninsula this time to experience the Italian style of TOD'S first scene again. AT THE SCENE OF THE TOD'S MILAN SHOW, ELLE ALSO MET THE TWO AFTER THE SHOW AND TOOK THE OPPORTUNITY TO KEEP THEM AND ASK A FEW QUESTIONS.
Xiao Zhan wears a TOD'S Fall/Winter 2023 shirt jacket, soft matte leather perfectly interprets the balanced aesthetic between personality and warmth, with belt accessories at the waist and elegant leather with metal T-buckle, the image of a faceted gentleman came into being.
IN THE FACE OF XIAO ZHAN WHO HAS RETURNED TO THE FASHION CITY AFTER NEARLY FOUR YEARS, ELLE CAN'T HELP BUT WONDER, WALKING THROUGH THE STREETS OF MILAN TO ENJOY THE PRESENT, WHAT ITALIAN FOOD DID HE TASTE?
Liu Shishi chose a red leather trench coat and paired it with the new T CASE handbags for autumn/winter 2023, with a striking red color and glossy leather texture, a three-dimensional silhouette and a soft posture, paired with TOD'S KATE series loafers, releasing a calm, intellectual and elegant style precipitation.
For Liu Shishi, who went to Milan for the third time, the city is no longer strange. ELLE CAN'T HELP BUT ASK, WHAT IS IT LIKE TO REVISIT THE PLACE?
TURNING BACK TO THE BEGINNING OF THE SHOW, UNDER THE LEADERSHIP OF CREATIVE DIRECTOR WALTER CHIAPPONI, THE TOD'S FALL/WINTER 2023 COLLECTION IS INSPIRED BY "ITALIAN FEELING" AND INTERPRETS A RICH CONTEMPORARY FEMININITY.
This season, the Maison is located in Hangar Bicocca, Milan's contemporary art center, a former Pirelli factory that now meets Milan's old industrial civilization and contemporary art. Guided by a pillar of warm yellow light, a winding route is laid out around seven architectural "ruins" in the center of the show. It was the "Seven Heavenly Palaces," a permanent installation left here by German sculptor Anselm Kiefer.
The ambiguous light of the show shrouds the space, and the sloping architecture undoubtedly makes a subtle annotation to the show. The concrete structure is wrapped in clues about history, an afterglow of a civilization that once belonged to an empire. Models step out from behind the light-transmitting curtain and embark on a journey from the past to the present.
Walter Chiapponi envisioned a more sedate and determined femininity for this season, with deep earth tones and a casual look of modern Italian. a leather-clad double-breasted cropped coat reminiscent of the classic cobblestone elements of fashion houses; The military parkas are deconstructed by Chiapponi in a more fashionable language, cut, stitched, and uniquely cinched, all exuding the elaborate techniques of TOD'S traditional craftsmanship.
The masculine silhouette of the traditional impression is finished with pinstripes on the surface of the suit for a more streamlined look. The jacket that emphasizes the shoulder contour eschews the lapel design and combines with the eye-catching structural shirt to create a dizzying urban chic.
The powerful cropped bomber jacket is feminine with a feminine waist, Walter Chiapponi is made of Nappa leather, and the wide belt is flanked by a delicate flap mini bag for practicality and playfulness.
Knitting is still the best material for femininity this season, and the blended colors blend with precious leather accessories to harmonize the clash of materials. The knitted dress design extends the sense of life of the fabric through the zipper line, and the sexiness wraps the female body with a degree of charm.
Whenever TOD'S symbolizes the "T" logo, "Timeless" is always the first cultural symbol that comes to mind. From the 20s of the 20th century to the present, the century-old family, famous for its leather craftsmanship, is still pursuing excellence and craftsmanship, tracing the imprint left by the founder Filippo Della Valle.
Walter Chiapponi understands the importance of this, and he reaffirms his proud core leather craftsmanship by reinvoking his thoughts on the legacy of the fashion house in his T CASE collection. Today, the T CASE collection not only conveys the brand DNA of TOD'S, but also carries the spirit of craftsmanship that transcends the ages.
Walter Chiapponi wants to rewrite the language of contemporary fashion with a deep historical perspective, and the leather accessories of TOD'S Fall/Winter 2023 collection are the perfect answer for him. The distinctive metallic T-logo is a symbol of ubiquitous minimalism, with precious leather surfaces hand-brushed and polished for a fabulous raw shine.
The traditional silhouette Di Bag from the 90s is also returning this season, this classic deconstructivist bag from supple leather is fitted with a practical woven shoulder strap. Walter Chiapponi translates classics with modern aesthetic logic, and there are timeless imprints remaining.
Presented in a subtle mini size, the T Timeless messenger bag enriches the sophisticated look with metal piping and leather inlays, while the unbeatable geometric silhouette is a reinterpretation of avant-garde design that modernizes throughout.
The fashion house's most iconic Gommino shoes have also been given a more feminine interpretation. Following the ballet shoes of the spring/summer 2023 runway, Gommino changed the material to lamb wool and leather this season, and added ankle cross-lace detailing to the body.
Walter Chiapponi focuses on the combination of rigidity and softness unique to women, adding a feminine attitude to high heels, and the lace-up design enriches the sense of sophistication of shoes. The W.G. ankle boots from TOD'S fashion archives also add a flair to autumn and winter with softer matte leather.
Rather than being a fashion brand known for leather goods, TOD'S represents a philosophy of life unique to Italy, and the Fall/Winter 2023 collection is Walter Chiapponi's celebration of Italian cultural traditions deeply rooted in TOD'S.
Walter Chiapponi once said: "Fashion is the instrument of our time, adding care to our dress. His design philosophy perfectly exemplifies TOD'S fashion philosophy: to maintain sophistication, to preserve elegance and to keep up with the modern.
Source: Brand, Instagram