Despite the fact that millions of international tourists flock to the Mexican state of Quintana Roo each year, there are still many hidden gems that are less well known. In the southern state of Quintana Roo, for example, near the border of Campeche, there are two well-preserved but underestimated Mayan sites – Kohunlich and Dzibanché – that deserve extra effort.
Both sites, whether from Xpujil in Campeche or Bacalar or Chetumal in Quintana Roo, can only be reached by car or in a group.
Currently, Kojonridge opens at 8:00 every day for an entrance fee of 85 Mexican pesos, about 30 yuan, while Zbanche opens from 9:00 for 70 Mexican pesos, about 25 yuan, and Zpanche's ticket also includes the cost of the pyramid of Kinichná. However, you may also have to pay extra to local residents, as they currently have barricades a few kilometers from the attraction.
Visit Kohonrić
Kohonrić is fairly well preserved compared to other Mayan sites, and there is no public transport here, so it is still relatively unknown. However, based on past experience, it will be overcrowded one day sooner or later, so it is better to come early when you have the opportunity.
Founded in the early 6th century AD and still inhabited until around the 13th century, the city's architecture is a mix of the Río Bec style of the ruins around Spucil and the Petén style of Guatemala. However, the extent of Kohonrich's historical relationship with both regions remains a mystery.
- Plaza of the Straya
Entering the ruins, the first thing you will encounter is a large platform known as the Temple of the Kings, which one can go up, but the stairs are on the other side and need to be passed from Plaza Merwin, which will be introduced at the back.
On the other side of the entrance passage is the northwest residential area, which was used between about 600 and 1200 AD, and was gradually expanded over time, and it is believed that it was inhabited by a group of craftsmen who specialized in making objects from shells. Further ahead is the Acropolis, which is also the largest building in Kohonrić.
At the top of the Acropolis there are ruins of various buildings, which may have once been a residential area for the elite, and looking down from the Acropolis offers the best view of the Square of the Steles.
From the top of the Acropolis, you can walk around the bottom and feel how big it is. And mysteriously, there seems to be a secret room that can be accessed from the lower floor.
Stele Square is the central square of the city, where many of the most important ceremonies in Kohonridge take place.
To the east of the square is a building built around 600 AD, known as the Stone Stele Palace. There are three stone tablets at its base, but it looks like they have never been carved. Therefore, archaeologists believe that in ancient times they were painted with stucco.
- Temple of the Masks
Leaving the square, you'll find a forest trail leading east to the Temple of the Masks, arguably the highest point in Kojonridge. Built around 500 AD, it is one of the oldest structures in the ruins.
The Temple of the Masks got its name because its pyramid steps are flanked by ornate masks, each about 2.5 meters high. They depict the sun god (Kinich Ahau), but may also represent different members of the ruling dynasty. It is worth noting that all masks face west, looking at the setting sun.
The masks were added during the initial architectural phase of the Early Classical period, and later, around 700 AD, were covered by the architecture of the Second Period. But due to the crudeness of the construction of the second phase, the mask eventually resurfaced over time.
The masks are now sheltered by thatched roofs, and the pyramids can still be climbed, but the small temples at the top look largely empty.
The Temple of the Mask is one of the few Mayan pyramids that maintains its original stucco decoration, and many other Mayan pyramids throughout Mexico were built in this style, but few surfaces are so well preserved.
- Plaza Merwin
Follow the path southwest from the Temple of the Mask and you'll soon reach a pitch. If you've been to several Mayan ruins before, it won't be surprising to see the pitch.
While the rules may vary from city to city, by and large it is the players of both teams who hit the rubber ball with their hips and thighs to make it pass through the stone ring to emerge victorious. This competition is highly symbolic, representing the movement of the universe and the power of light against darkness.
Crossing the stadium is Merwin Square, which is right next to Stone Monument Square and feels like a completely different area of the city compared to it. Not only are the various small buildings dense, but even the dense trees that stand here give people a hazy and mysterious feeling.
According to research, Merwin Square was supposed to be completed after the main square, and many of the buildings were built in the style of nearby Riobeck, where relatively small ceremonies were held.
- 27 steps
A forest trail leads to the southernmost point of the site, where an elaborate residential complex known as the "27 Steps" will be found. As you can probably guess, it is named after the number of steps built to reach the hill where it is located.
The buildings are so well preserved that with a little imagination, the daily life of the Kohonrich nobles comes to mind.
Zbanche
Exit Highway 186 and head north, eventually turning right to Zpanche. However, local villagers set up barricades on the road, which, according to them, tourists use every day, without ever receiving money from the government that manages the attraction. Therefore, they can only do it themselves, charging all outsiders a fee and saying that these expenses will be used for future repairs. The villagers charge foreigners 100 Mexican pesos, or about 36 yuan, compared to 50 pesos for Mexicans, which is not uncommon in Mexico.
Historically, one of the most striking aspects of Zbanche is that, according to the inscriptions found here, it is believed to be the origin of the Kaan dynasty that later ruled Calakmul, whose symbol was the widely distributed snakehead symbol known as "Kaan".
And Calakmul, about 130 kilometers from here, later became one of the greatest and most powerful cities in Mayan history, so this is not a trivial detail.
Also known as the "Snake People," the Kahn probably ruled Zbanche throughout the 5th and 6th centuries AD. Even after their journey to Karakmul, Zpanche continued to flourish, with its last dated text fixed in 909 AD.
- Pyramid 6 (Structure 6)
Zpanche stands out for having several large pyramids, which apparently provided useful lessons for the later construction of the huge Pyramid of Karakmul 2 by the Kahn dynasty.
Upon entering the ruins, you will immediately encounter Pyramid 6, also known as the Temple of the Lintels. Like many buildings here, it is climbable. At the top, you will find two temples with arcades.
Although less obvious now, the pyramid was once entirely decorated with painted stucco, although carved wooden friezes dating back to the mid-6th century AD have survived to the present day.
The early part of Pyramid No. 6 was built between 300 and 600 AD, while the temple at the top was erected centuries later.
- The Gann Plaza
Continue south along the trail to Gann Square, named after Thomas Gann, the first archaeologist to study the site in the 2020s. Gann Square has many different pyramids, let's focus on the following highlights.
At the northern end of the square stands Pyramid 16, which has a long staircase for special ceremonies. The construction of the building took centuries and, interestingly, the remains of the stone that were once used to house the stucco masks remain.
Pyramid 14 is smaller and lies on the west side of the square. It used to have two rooms at the top, now gone. The most valuable thing about the building is that it has some strand-like remnants of stucco decoration around it that seem to depict local rulers.
The highlight of Gann Square is Pyramid 2 to the east, also known as the Pyramid of Cormoranes. This impressive building, the largest pyramid in the site, was built in the 5th century AD in a style influenced by Teotihuacán.
Most notably, Pyramid 2 is the tomb of King Sky Witness. At the top is a temple with two arcades, and unlike the other pyramids in Kohonrić, this pyramid is now impossible to climb.
On the sides of the pyramid, various remnants of the original stucco decoration can be seen, now protected by a thatched roof.
- Plaza Xibalba
Gann Square is flanked to the east by West Barba Square and flanked by two long palaces built on high ground. Each palace has nine openings, and this number can be associated with the nine lords of hell, hence the name of the square - Sibalba (Mayan hell).
Although both palaces once had steps, they were demolished during Spanish colonization and the stones were looted.
On the other side of the square is Pyramid No. 1, also known as the Temple of the Owl, built in the Petten style, inside the mausoleum of a noble woman, and many funerary objects and jewelry were found.
Pyramid No. 1 is also decorated with stucco friezes on the exterior, and masks are also placed on both sides of the steps, which is very similar to the Temple of the Masks in Kohonrich.
The pyramid is also climbable, and from the top offers a great view of Zbanche and its surroundings.
- Residential area and small acropolis
After visiting the pyramids, a trail will lead you to a secluded wooded area with many dense buildings, most likely the residence palace of the ruling elite.
Up the stairs is a small acropolis where archaeologists have found a variety of artifacts, including incense burners, gold ornaments, and obsidian knives, and some stucco artwork has been partially preserved.
Kinichná
There is also a larger pyramid at the nearby ruins of Kinichna, just a few kilometers from Zbanche. Because there is only one building there, which explains why it is included in the ticket to Zpanche.
Built sometime in the early classical period (300 to 600 AD), the pyramid consists of three main levels. The bottom floor covers a large area, and from the back and sides, it looks like a natural hill covered with dense vegetation, while only the front is cleared to reveal the original appearance of the building.
Ascend the first flight of stairs to the second level, where there are two temples with arcades. In ancient times, they would also be decorated with large masks as mentioned above.
Next is the third level, where there are also two temples, but this time they share a corridor, which at the time would also be richly decorated with stucco paintings. In addition, the top of the tower was once decorated with a statue of the Mayan sun god Kinich Ahau, from which the pyramid now takes its name.
Like the pyramids of Kohonrich and Zpanche, this pyramid was also used as a mausoleum. Two nobles were buried inside, accompanied by a collection of jade artifacts, said to belong to the most valuable column found in the region.
Strangely, the signage at the site did not mention the total height of the pyramid, and the information could not be found online. But in any case, the view from the top of the pyramid is really impressive. Even after just visiting the Mayan ruins around Karakmul and Spuchir, climbing the pyramid is a great experience.
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