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The previous theoretical articles are all foreshadowing for future chapters. All the algae treatment methods that follow are generalized, because the specifics have been made very clear in the previous articles.
Future articles will be marked with the Latin name of the algae, which is one of the ways to find the right information. Searching for results without knowing the scientific name is often unsatisfactory.
For example, the common parasite "flying saucer worm" of marine fish, according to the flying saucer worm Baidu, the results are all the seawater players' own "soil" method, that is, freshwater baths.
But the actual impact of freshwater fish on fish is still quite large. If you know the Chinese scientific name of the "flying saucer worm" is "Beniden worm", you can Baidu to his Latin scientific name "Neobenedenia", and then search for information, you will find a lot of detailed correct treatment methods, and then choose a treatment plan suitable for ornamental fish.
In my article, I also introduced how to query the correct or more accurate seawater related information: click to read, which is called teaching it to fish, hoping that in this way, interested people can google the correct knowledge. (I don't believe baidu)
Let's get started.
Green algae are the most common of our kind. Green algae are the most common of our kind. The appearance of most green algae is related to nutrient salts, either the recent dead organisms in the tank release a lot of ammonium (the reason for this in the previous article); or the CNP in the tank is too high; the use of TDS too high tap water will also lead to green algae in the tank; PH is too low will cause a large number of green algae to spread!
<h1>Various Genera</h1>
Due to the large number of planktonic green algae, the water of the entire fish tank turns green. It should be noted that green water may not be chlorella, but may also be spirulina, bulbous and other whip algae.
Green water also has benefits, mainly in the cultivation of fry and the cultivation of rotifers.
The disadvantage is that there is no way to view corals, and there may be a large number of deaths at any time, resulting in a sharp rise in ammonia nitrogen in the water body.
Generally, green water is commonly found in the stage of opening the cylinder to burst the algae, especially when the filament algae does not erupt in the early stage of the cylinder, and the ammonia nitrogen content of the water body is super high, coupled with the ultra-long time to turn on the lights, resulting in (no competitive organisms).
Green water may also appear during normal breeding, but it is usually quickly beaten out by the eggs. So when the dirty water from your eggs is green, it is likely that the nitrogen in your tank is too high, which causes a quiet outbreak of green water that you "can't see".
Treatment: The use of UV lights can quickly get green water. If you frequently burst green water, then you can consider using ATS to control the nutrient salts in your fish tank and reduce the input of nutrients.
<h1>
Green algae (Ostreobium)
</h1>
A layer of green algae covering the bones of corals, although it grows very slowly, will slowly force the coral tissue to fade over time.
Especially SPS and "Giggs Bay", when SPS burns the head, after the bottom is removed or other broken wounds, the white bone part that leaks out will slowly cover this algae, and this algae will gradually force back the symbiotic flesh tissue, resulting in the whole coral slowly deboned.
And friends who have raised "Giggs bay" must also know that this shell has no skirt, resulting in the meat and shell slowly filled with this algae, and finally "Giggs Bay" dies.
If such algae occur on a large scale, consider lowering phosphate and nitrate, and a small number of findings on the bones of corals can be considered to clip it off with sharp-billed forceps.
The long-spined sea urchin will gnaw on this algae.
But studies have shown that this algae and coral also have certain benefits, and those who are interested can search this paper: "The 'other' coral symbiont: Ostreobiumdiversity and distribution"
<h1>Obolas oblongata (Enteromorpba</h1>).
Clusters appear in the crevices of the glass of the fish tank, as well as on the living stones where the water flows gently. It is characterized by the growth of clusters. This differs from filamentous algae in that it has a flattened strip. This algae generally does not erupt in large numbers. Because algae-eating fish especially love to eat this.
It's very much like hu moss, I went to Qingdao to play, the sea is full of hu moss. But this is not a moss.
Copepods, footlets, most hangings, love to eat. It is generally found in fish tanks with excellent water quality, but fluctuating phosphate. So if there is a large-scale outbreak that requires phosphate control, and KH must be stabilized above 8, ATS can limit this algae from growing in fish tanks.
<h1>Green hairy algae (Derbesia</h1>).
Foreigners are also referred to as GHA (gree hair algae green hair algae), if you can go on R2R, search for GHA, you can find a lot of articles and help posts about this thing.
This is one of the nightmares of the Sea Tank player! One of the most helpless types for beginners! It is difficult to control and it is extremely easy to burst the cylinder! Destroy it is a very difficult drop task!
This algae usually grows in a position where the water flow is more moderate, into a loose state, it is easier to appear under the lattice board, a large number of water flow gentle coral base, it is easy to be taken away by straw forceps; if it grows in a position where the water flow is more rapid, it will become tough and difficult to remove.
I'll post a few more pictures for you to live your eyes!
Controlling this requires a set of combination punches to gradually achieve results: first of all, it is necessary to keep KH and PH stable above 8, and be careful not to be naïve to think that KH high PH must be high. Many players do not prepare PH test agents, especially in recent years, some prejudices have been rampant, resulting in more and more novices not understanding the importance of PH!
At the same time, consider using protein packs and phosphate adsorbents to reduce water nutrient salts. A small part of the algae should be manually removed as soon as possible and brushed off with a toothbrush.
Foot class, copepods like this very much. So if you have too many algae in the tank, don't raise insectivores such as bulges and frogs. The vast majority of algae-eating fish do not eat.
Blue-footed\red-footed hermit crabs, corrugated hangings, rabbit fish, long-spined sea urchins, pagoda algae snails, bull's eye snails with raised shells, and cap shells may all nibble on this algae. Not guaranteed, but all of the above creatures have a record of nibbling.
This algae should also be removed manually, do not expect to disappear in a few days, 1-2 months to get it done is successful. Pay particular attention to controlling PH and KH.
<h1>Small featherweed (Bryopsis</h1>).
Clusters of growth on the stone, as well as around the coral, plucking him is difficult, brushing him is more difficult, the key is to pull out, continue to grow in the original place for a period of time! Annoying!
Almost no fish eat, mainly this thing secretes substances that are harmful to biologicals. Footstock, copepods like to roost in it, but do not eat.
When ammonia and nitrite are elevated, this thing is particularly easy to spread. So the opposite is done, controlling the ammonia nitrogen level of the system, as for phosphate, it has little effect on small feathers.
In addition, I am sure that high KH can inhibit their spread and growth, so it is recommended to also cooperate with manual removal to remove them, giving other microalgae some time to encroach on the original small feather algae's territory.
In addition, some articles from foreigners have said that increasing the Mg content to 1300+ can also have a certain effect.
<h1>Short-green hairy algae (Boodlea</h1>).
Relatively short, generally 1-2 cm long, soft, flakes, pale green. Like the green hairy algae, the rapids of the water grow very tightly, and the places where the water flow is soothing grow loosely.
Footed, copepods, as well as small crabs that come out of the tank at night to feed, blue-footed hermit crabs, long-spined sea urchins, and dressed sea urchins have nibbling records. Feeding these helps to control the spread.
Manual removal, maintain the water KH and PH above 8, if the outbreak is more, consider the protein pack and phosphate adsorption. ATS can suppress them.
<h1>Cladopbora</h1>
Pale green, dark green, fine and tough, is also one of the most hated algae.
Especially loved to appear in the old tank with low KH and high PO4.
Keep KH and PH above 8, reduce phosphate, and cooperate with manual removal.
Rabbit fish, corrugated hanging, long-spined sea urchin, dress sea urchin, emerald crab (hard to touch) may be eaten.
<h1>8. Chlorella (Valonia</h1>).
Nickname: Tumbleweed algae. It often grows in the horns of the horns, such as the roots of shells, the bones of LPS, the roots of lanterns, and crevices of stones.
If you accidentally break him in the water while cleaning him manually, congratulations, soon the spores in their bodies will be all over every corner of your fish tank!
It's also shiny. When I opened a shop before, there were aquarists who came to get corals and asked how to sell pearls... I still wonder what a pearl is... Until I saw the eerie reflection of bubble algae under the blue light.
I really want to give him a plastic bag!
It is best to clear it manually. This is actually not easy to break, it is relatively hard. My approach is to find one to clear one. If it is on a coral, I will take out the whole coral, carefully scrape it off, and then use fresh water + toothbrush to wash the growth position. (They only grow in the bone part of the coral)
The good news is that the Big Sail Pearl Crane and the Purple Crane will eat them, and the emerald crab will also eat them, but you basically can't buy them. However, fish that feed for any second have basically lost the consciousness of desperately nibbling on algae, so pay attention to this.