New York-based Jonathan Cohen is known for his vibrant, colourful patterned dresses – and while the brand's Spring 2023 collection continues that tradition, it also introduces some exciting new elements.
The designer was inspired by prolific female artists, including Frida Kahlo, Lee Krasner and Judit Reigl – women who happened to be obscured by their male counterparts who explored elements of contingency and spontaneity in their paintings, inviting the viewer to discover patterned forms in abstraction. This gesture appears in the Spring 2023 collection, with flowers and dripping effects forming an expressive pattern. However, Cohen did not source from textile artists, but created all the prints himself.
As in previous collections, floral motifs are a recurring theme: Matilija poppies, snapdragons, hydrangeas and ranunculus form the cornerstones of the print.
"The reason I really like prints is because I think it can tell a story really directly," Cohen told the fashionista. This appears "melting" on a long knitted dress with rainbow stripes, on a corset and ball skirt with painted florals, and on a colorful silk dress with sour polka dots.