Gusman Tamand. Image source: Instagram
Gesman Tamang is part of a new generation of climbers in Nepal: passionate, skilled and daring to imagine. Before he became one of the 14×8,000m possible project projects of Nyima Puga Nirmal Purja, he had already gained a high reputation for alpine rescue and still being a guide.
Gesman Tamang is from Nepal, but he is not a Sherpa and it is clear from his surname that he belongs to the Tamang ethnic group. Nor was he born into a mountaineering family, his grandfather was a Gurkha soldier and his father was a farmer.
The first 8,000 meters is Mount Everest
Tamang's climbing experience was grueling, "I started working with the climbing team when I was 14 years old," he says. "At the age of 20, I was hired as a chef. At the age of 22, I became a high-altitude porter, and at the age of 26 I made my first ascent of the 8,000-meter extreme. ”
The first 8,000 meters happens to be Everest. He was working with Seven Peaks Adventures, where he assisted a 72-year-old Chinese client.
Tamant said: "I was lucky that everything went well. "On the way down, I was sent to help rescue again. At that time, apart from some techniques I had learned from an uncle, I knew almost nothing about how to climb mountains. When I returned to Kathmandu, I knew I had to learn as much as I could about mountaineering. I immediately started training in mountaineering and mountaineering rescue. ”
Abseiled at Ama da Bram Peak. Source: Gusman Tamand
Soon, Tamang began routinely assisting with rescues, especially those in need of long-term rescue. In the spring of 2021, for example, he and a Taiwanese client reached the summit of Annapurna without supplementing oxygen. After returning to the base camp, he immediately took a helicopter to carry out a long-term rescue of three Russian climbers.
Tamand found them at Camp 4, where he fixed the climbers' positions and hoisted them onto the helicopter, and he was the last to go up. Just then, a strong wind hit the helicopter. It fell 300 meters in an instant, throwing Tamang into the air and falling to the ground fiercely.
"The next morning," he recalled, "my neck couldn't move, and the doctor told me to rest for two days." That's all my breaks. After that, I was sent to dauragiri Peak for rescue. ”
Lead Nyima Puga to 6 towers 8000 meters
Tamang has twice summited Annapurna without oxygen, and he was part of the team when Alex Txikon first tried to climb Everest in winter. However, his name is most closely linked to many of the projects in Nyima Puga's 2019 "Possible Plan."
Annapurna is the first mountain to be completed by Gersmann Tamand (left) and "Possible Plans". Tamangan was anaerobic to the summit. Image source: Instagram
Tamang entered the project through Nyima's partner, Minma David Sherpa. Tamang recalled, "I participated in the climbing of Annapurna, Gancheng Janga, K2, Chooyou, Manaslu and Hishebaangma. ”
"I'm glad I had this opportunity to be a guide to 'Possible Plans' because it gave me more experience and attracted more followers on Instagram. It was the best way to promote myself and helped me build the confidence to start my own business. But 'Maybe Plan' also made me realize that I didn't want to do business. ”
Tamand later elaborated, "I don't want a company to be labeled elitist and only suitable for specific types of people. I want an inclusive company that welcomes anyone who wants to climb or hike in Nepal. ”
Gusman Tamão traveled to Aconcagua during the "Possible Project". Image source: Sandro Gromen Hayes
For Nyima Puga, "Possible Plan" was a springboard to his fame, but for Gusman Tamand, it was a job.
Tamand said, "Nyima hired a group of us as guides. "My only condition was to climb only peaks I hadn't climbed before. So I climbed all the peaks with him that were unfamiliar to me, and only Manaslu was the only one who had climbed before. ”
During the COVID-19 pandemic, China shut down Zhuo Aoyoufeng for foreign tourists, but Puga was granted a special permit, and Tamang was his only guide.
"I shared part of his weight, cooked the meals, set up the tent, just like I would any other client."
Gusman Tamand (right, wearing white) at the premiere of the Netflix documentary by Nyima Puga in Kathmandu. Source: Gesman Tamang /Facebook
He also has fond memories of the atmosphere in the team during the project. "During this time, Nyima Dai made us feel like brothers. He inspires us to achieve everything we can. ”
However, their professional relationship ended with the end of the "possible plan". For "personal and professional reasons," Tamand turned down Nyima's invitation to climb K2 in winter.
Winter Jooyou and new business
Tamang has always worked toward personal goals in acting as a guide and working. Last winter, he joined Gelje Sherpa's team in an attempt to open up a new route on the Nepalese side of Cho Oyou. Despite the difficulties along the route, Tamand believes it is feasible. "Last winter, the weather was the only reason we couldn't accomplish this task," he said. ”
In November, some Nepalese climbers will return to Zhuo Oyou. Pioneer Expeditions has confirmed their itinerary, with Nyima Puga's Elite Expedition Company, Minma G's Imaginary Nepal, and Gelje Sherpa's Seven Peaks Expedition also planned.
Tamand said: "Because of my other projects, I'm not sure I'll try again.
Last winter, Gusman Tamand was at the top of The Jooyou Peak. Image source: Instagram
Tamand also started his own outdoor clothing company with partner Lauren Albert. As a result, last spring, Tamang led only Amadha Bram's expedition, spending the rest of his clothing business and rescue efforts. In addition, he helped recover the remains of the shipwrecked climber Antonios Sykaris on the upper slopes of Daulagiri.
Overuse of helicopters
Regarding the soaring number of expeditions, climbers and number of summits (some climb several peaks in the same season), Taman remains tolerant but still obsessed with climbing safely.
"I think it's good that more and more people want to climb in Nepal, but I also think that there are more and more novices with little or no experience climbing on the big mountains because of the use of helicopters." In some cases, they were transported directly by helicopter to camps high up. ”
"In addition, they did not completely retreat to the base camp. Now it's more accessible for novice climbers and it's dangerous for an inexperienced person to try 8,000 meters. But it's up to them, and the adventure companies that will take the risks with them. ”
Loaded Tamang guide at Annapurna Peak. Image source: Instagram
Anaerobic climbing is not common for a guide, but "I did it when I climbed Annapurna in 2021 because my client wanted me not to carry oxygen and he was strong and experienced." I brought two bottles so that we could use them in case of emergency. In fact, during the climb, I met a climber who tried not to bring oxygen, but he did not go well and wanted to buy me $1,000 for a can of oxygen and a mask. Of course, I refused – the gear was my and my customers' safety. ”
Asked if he would like to climb for fun rather than for work, Tamand replied, "Yes, I do." Actually I like to climb mountains alone. Once, when I was sent to retrieve the body of a climber at the summit of the south slope of Mount Everest, I found myself there and decided to climb the summit alone, I felt great, and then retrieved the body on the way back. ”