In addition to the common diamonds, rubies, emeralds and sapphires, some "niche" gemstones have begun to become popular this year, such as some "translucent gemstones" that have been supporting roles in previous years and have provoked beams this year; For example, some orange-red gemstones have brought about a new color trend, and many brands have made it the theme color of this summer. So, can these "new hot spots" become a new trend in the jewelry circle and be favored by jewelry collectors, so why not analyze a wave?
The "passionate" Fanta stone is tempered this time
In fact, Fanta stone has quietly entered the high pearl world for a long time, as long as the designer wants to use a passionate orange gemstone, it must have its figure. Fanta stone is actually not an academic name recognized by the industry like Papalachia or Paraíba, it is more like a "nickname", its big name is spessartine garnet, and more strictly, only spessartine garnet with the most positive orange tone can be called "Fanta stone".
Fanta stone from Africa
Spessartine garnet was first discovered in Bavaria, Germany, in 1832, but it was not until the 1990s that sustainable deposits were discovered, and gem-grade spstensite was discovered in Nigeria, Mozambique and other places. The color of spessartine garnet varies depending on the origin: gemstones from Nigeria tend to be bright and bright or darker, with a reddish hue. The spessartine garnet from Namibia is a bright electric orange color, and is recognized as the highest quality orange spessartine garnet (Mandarin Garnet), which is what we often call "Fanta stone" (named because of its similar color to Fanta soda).
Piaget Count Rose Series Rings Spessartine Garnet, Tourmaline, Beryl, Paraíba Tourmaline
Spessartine garnets come from a family of colorful garnets, ranging in color from light orange-yellow to tan, but only spessartine garnets that reach Vivid Orange without a brown hue can be called "Fanta stone". Its high refractive index and warm color always conjure up images of warm sunshine and sweet citrus. But because it is difficult to find large carat gemstones, spessartine garnets larger than 3 carats are already very rare, so it is not widely used in jewelry circles like tanzanite, tourmaline, and spinel.
Chaumet Paris Under the Sun Rings Gold, White Gold, Tourmaline, Fanta Stone, Sapphire, Ruby, Chalcedony, Diamond
And spessartine garnet can not be artificially enhanced color, so as long as the designer finds a large carat gemstone, they can't help but design it as the main stone, so the most common occurrence in the previous high-bead works is the Fanta stone ring.
From left to right: Boucheron, Van Cleef & Arpels, Louis Vuitton
But this year is a little different, major brands may need enthusiastic orange to boost morale in the post-epidemic era, and the application of Fanta stone can be described as eight immortals across the sea. Champaign Paris lets it show the warm sunshine of the sea, connecting Fanta stone with raspberry tourmaline and pink chalcedony, with woven gold rope and paved diamonds, showing a rich and delicate texture change.
Chaumet Paris Under the Sun Necklace Gold, White Gold, Tourmaline, Fanta Stone, Sapphire, Ruby, Chalcedony, Diamonds
Tasaki's Ore necklace in this year's Radiant Sky fine jewelry collection shows the charm of rainbow jewelry, naturally without orange Fanta stone, and successfully occupies the C position, laying a cheerful rhythm.
Tasaki Radiant Sky Fine Jewelry Ore Necklace Fanta stone, Tanzanite, fire opal, tourmaline Paraíba, garnet, sapphire, diamond, pearl
Louis Vuitton also collected large carats of Fanta stone this year, Spirit Jewellery's Radiance necklace is designed like a cascading armor, the scales made of gold reminiscent of a mighty dragon, Francesca Amfitheatrof set a 10.99 carat Fanta stone in the center of the necklace, igniting a roaring flame in the heart of the heroic female warrior.
Louis Vuitton Louis Vuitton Spirit Radiance necklace, bracelet yellow gold, platinum, diamonds, fanta stone
Fanta stone also appeared in Chopard's Red Carpet series this year, but everyone who saw it exclaimed "So Sweat!" Yes, Chopard chose the romantic Cinderella movie, using this orange gemstone to create a childlike pumpkin ring, and when opened, there was Cinderella's crystal shoe inside.
Chopard Red Carpet Fine Jewelry Ring Fanta Stone, Tsavray Stone, Diamond
The coolest spessartine garnet design is Hermès, after all, orange is the brand logo color of others. Their new season of the High Pearl Les Jeux de l'Ombre collection features "Light and Shadow", jewelry creative director Pierre Hardy unexpectedly uses uncut Fanta stone rough for design, and in Lumières Brutes earrings and rings, the seemingly burning Fanta stone is set on a "light track" set with colored gemstones, like a comet flying by.
Hermès Hermès Les Jeux de l'Ombre Fine Jewelry Collection Lumières Brutes earrings, rings
Probably the largest Fanta stone in this season's High Pearls is the BowmanLando Sunset Orange Dream ring, which features a 46.9 ct cabochon Fanta stone from this year's High Pearl collection La Gioia, meaning "a natural walk from sunrise to darkness", where the designer used intense orange-red fanta stones paired with orange sapphires and brown diamonds to create a warm red hue of sunset, reminiscent of an intoxicating sunset scene.
Pomellato Bowman Lando La Gioia Fine Jewelry Sunset Orange Dream Ring Fanta stone, sapphire, diamond
Opal, which won with a magic color, has continued to become popular this year
Opal probably became popular in the high-pearl industry from 2020, and last year it reached a peak, major brands have collected large carats of high-quality opal together with traditional rare gemstones, and opal has slowly entered the hearts of jewelry collectors. This year, this previously niche gemstone continues to exude charm, with Cartier, Champiel Paris, Chopard, Dior, and Gucci all choosing the dazzling opal as the center stone, contributing a new wonderful.
Boucheron uses a lot of opal in the 2021 High Pearl collection
Since the 1960s, big jewelry brands have used opal with decorative hardstones (jadeite, coral, lapis lazuli, malachite, turquoise, onyx, and aventurine). But at that time, Opal was never beautiful alone, and there was always a lack of opportunity for a comprehensive display. Piaget's Yves Piaget once said: "If there is one gemstone that perfectly captures the richness of the earth, it is opal, whose variable chemical and physical properties interact with each other, different but completely complementary, resulting in a wonderful chemical reaction." ”
Piaget Count Limelight Gala watch
As a result, Piaget launched a new Extravagant Touch Fine Jewelry watch after last year's Limelight Gala watch, which uses the dazzling black opal as the dial, inlaid with olive-cut sapphires, emeralds and diamonds, and echoes the mysterious color of the black opal with the brand's signature featherwork, fully demonstrating the dazzling effect of the opal.
Piaget Earl Extravagant Touch Fine Jewelry Watch White gold, sapphire, emerald, diamond, black opal, feathers
Cartier's Apatura necklace is inspired by butterflies with spread wings, but with an abstract approach, two Australian opals weighing a total of 22.08 carats are an excellent choice for butterfly wing colour and shine, accentuated by sapphires and diamonds.
Cartier Beautés des Mondes Fine Jewelry Apatura Necklace Opal, Sapphire, Diamond
Chammy Paris also chose black opal, this year's Ondes et Merveilles high pearl series of themes from the sea, weighing 19.84 carats of blue-green tones Australian opal can just show the deep mystery of the sea, its unique color change effect is like the sparkling waves under the sun, and the emeralds, sapphires, Paraíba tourmalines below the "waves" just reflect each other, so that this Gulf Stream long necklace with the shape and color of the "sense of movement" Show the waves of the sea.
Chaumet Paris Gulf Stream Necklace Platinum, Opal, Emerald, Sapphire, Paraíba Tourmaline, Diamonds
Chopard's entire Red Carpet collection this year is inspired by movies, and this opal-encrusted necklace pays homage to Avatar, a kaleidoscope of opal embedded in a frame of turquoise and Paraíba tourmaline, and suspended from emerald beads, showing the vibrant planet of Pandora.
Chopard Chopard Red Carpet necklace Opal, sapphire, turquoise, Paraíba tourmaline, emerald
Victoire de Castellane, who loves to "play" with color, how can she miss the dazzling opal, she has arranged opal in the Dior high pearl series for three consecutive years, from Toi et Moi in 2020 to Rose last year, and then to this year's Print, you can see that she has a clear arrangement for the opal "color change effect": surrounded by rainbow gemstones, contrasted with cool color gemstones, This year, gradient gemstones were chosen to reveal the delicate transitional colors of white opal.
Dior Print Fine Jewelry Collection
Gucci's "Garden of Pleasure" collection of fine jewelry, directed by Alessandro Michele, who loves all kinds of myths, is inspired by the Renaissance "Grand Tour", which uses opal as the main stone but does not focus on color, but is reminiscent of the transparent domes in temples and churches.
Gucci Gucci Garden of Pleasure Fine Jewelry Collection Earrings, Necklace Opal, Diamonds
Gucci Gucci Garden of Pleasure Fine Jewelry Ring Opal, Diamond
Misty gems are coming to power?
This year, or in recent years, jewelry designers have been very fond of gemstones with hazy feelings, such as chalcedony, crystal, and moonstone. Although these materials lack brilliant fire, their soft luster and romantic temperament are unique, from Boucheron to Chammy Paris, from Cartier to De Beers have fallen in love with these "natural flirting" players.
Literary small fresh chalcedony
Chalcedony looks "warm as jade", but it actually has nothing to do with jade, it is a cryptocrystalline quartz, and agate is a family. The most special thing about chalcedony is its soft color and luster, some are waxy and some are translucent and hazy. There are many colors, common in jewelry are red, green, purple, blue, and the most used in high beads is blue, green and purple, are very light and elegant high-grade gray, so that it appears quite low-key in many bright and dazzling colored gemstones, but can perfectly set off each other, showing different temperaments.
chalcedony
This year's de Beers Jewellers is refreshing, with many modernist designs that set their chalcedony jewelry apart. Unlike the past, which always played a supporting role, this midnight aura (Midnight Aurora) set made the chalcedony one of the protagonists, and the diamond group CP, but under the background of platinum and diamonds, the chalcedony representing the aurora was particularly eye-catching.
De Beers Jewellers The Alchemist of Light Fine Jewelry Collection Diamonds, Chalcedony
Cartier has always been very good at dealing with these opaque, translucent gemstones such as onyx, emeralds, corals... Nature also prefers chalcedony. Last year's High Pearl series used purple chalcedony, and this year chose sapphire. The Rituel necklace consists of two rows of sapphire pillars that complement rubies and diamonds, delicately outlined with onyx and pay homage to the Mesoamerican national style in a special color scheme. Thanks to the invisible setting technique, these patterns alternate between diamond cones and faceted rubies, as if suspended in the air.
Cartier Beautés des Mondes Fine Jewelry Rituel Necklace Rubies, Chalcedony, Onyx, Diamonds
Shangmei Paris's high pearls this year also chose chalcedony, they used light green chalcedony with the same color tourmaline, and then brightened with yellow diamonds and white diamonds, the whole ring is rich and delicate, and the calm chalcedony just paints a blank space for the brilliance of the gemstone.
Chaumet Paris Ondes et Merveilles Fine Jewelry Collection Under the Sun Rings Yellow Gold, White Gold, Tourmaline, Sapphire, Chalcedony, Diamonds
Modern high-pearl brands prefer to use chalcedony as a contrast to increase the texture and color changes of jewelry, but there is a jewelry design master who is very good at using chalcedony to do the overall design, which can show the "allure" of chalcedony, and even can be said to mention chalcedony jewelry can not miss her name, she is the French jewelry designer Suzanne Belperron.
Suzanne Belperron
Suzanne Belperron studied fine arts, became friends with René Boivin's daughter Germaine Boivin while studying, and naturally joined Boivin after graduation, and her talent quickly emerged, and she was soon promoted to co-creative director.
Suzanne Belperron earrings Chalcedony, sapphire, diamonds
But soon Suzanne Belperron's avant-garde design philosophy and eclectic choice of materials constrained her collaboration with Boivin. In 1932, she resigned and worked with gem dealer Bernard Herz, gaining complete creative freedom and becoming a master jewelry designer of the last century with her unique style.
Suzanne Belperron chalcedony bracelet
Suzanne Belperron is very private, and clients learn her name and address by word of mouth and can only customize jewelry by appointment. She measures clients' fingers, wrists and necks with the precision of a couture designer and customizes jewelry based on their skin tone, facial structure or hand shape, ensuring that each piece fits her client perfectly.
Suzanne Belperron brooch Chalcedony, diamonds
The master designer is known for his carvings from large gemstones, undulating, sporty shapes and eclectic materials. Carved semi-precious stones are often combined with diamonds or other rare gemstones, and are particularly good at the use of translucent materials such as chalcedony and crystal to create bold and unique designs. Her famous quote is "My style is my signature", of course, this also caused some trouble to the auction house in later generations, her works can be said to be popular in the jewelry collection circle, but very rare, can be described as "unattainable".
Suzanne Belperron Ring Chalcedony, Sapphire
Icons of the most famous era at the time, such as Elsa Schiaparelli, Fred Astaire and the Duchess of Windsor, were her clients, and when the Duchess of Windsor's jewelry was auctioned, she was once again "famous" by more jewelry collectors, and Chanel's "Lafayette" Karl Lagerfeld was even more admired.
The chalcedony jewelry set Suzanne Belperron was designed for the Duchess of Windsor
Of course, it's not hard if you just want to collect Suzanne Belperron's designs, and although the originals are rare, replicas are still available for sale. Because Bernard Herz, a Jew, was captured in a concentration camp during World War II, Suzanne Belperron worked to rescue and take over the company, but Bernard Herz was killed, and his son renamed the company Herz-Belperron to thank Suzanne Belperron, and she and the Herz family worked together until their retirement in 1974.
Suzanne Belperron brooch Chalcedony, diamonds
But the following year the company was dissolved, and all the designs and copyrights were sold to Ward Landrigan. They were the company that owned Verdura's rights, so you can still buy replicas of Suzanne Belperron's website.
Suzanne Belperron Tourbillon ring
This is probably the most "versatile" material in the high bead world
Suzanne Belperron, who has just been introduced, is also very good at crystal design in addition to chalcedony, in her hands, crystal is the most variable material, can be used as a center stone, can be used as a supporting stone, and can even replace the metal as a "support" material. You can also see the material advantage of the crystal family, so it can really be regarded as the "old drama bone" in the jewelry circle, almost all designers have dealt with it, but due to the limitation of the value, it is still a player with a low sense of existence in the field of high beads.
Suzanne Belperron earrings, Clip, bracelet crystal, diamond
But in the past two years, Boucheron's strong breakthrough in materials has made crystals popular in high bead circles, because designers have found that there is no "character" that can better echo diamonds than crystals, and its crystal clarity and brilliant fire diamonds form a perfect contrast. And Boucheron previously let the marble add a sense of heaviness to it, but also showed a rich texture change, showing the beauty of white from thick to light, from thick to transparent to flickering light.
Boucheron Bleu de Jodhpur double-sided necklace Platinum, marble, crystal, diamond, sapphire
This year's Boucheron Ailleurs high-bead series has brought a "new way" of crystal, claire Choisne's Pie ring is polished with crystal to create a transparent cover of the magpie's head, and the skull with diamonds can be clearly seen inside.
Boucheron Ailleurs High Pearl Series Pie Rings
The Toucan bracelet uses citrine to create a bird's beak in 3D carving, which is three-dimensional and realistic, and emits a glittering color.
Ailleurs high-bead series Touka bracelet
Amethyst is used to create the intoxicating buds and petals of the Crane Orchid, which are colorful and naturally textured.
Paradise Flower 发饰
Ailleurs high-bead Fleur de Paradis hair accessories
De Beers Jewellers' Frozen Capture chapter in this year's High Pearls uses Brazilian crystals to pay tribute to the collision of ice and diamonds, which is the first time that the diamond-focused brand has used crystals in the High Pearl collection. The designer creates a mirror effect with square crystals and polished white gold, and then sets them with sparkling diamonds, like thawed ice cubes flowing in the stream in early spring, and the sun shines on the waves and ice cubes to reflect different lights.
De Beers Jewellers The Alchemist of Light Fine Jewelry Collection Frozen Capture set Crystals, diamonds
Who wouldn't want to have a glimpse of the moonlight?
Moonstone is also a fairly niche gemstone, and this year also appeared in the High Pearl series, this naturally hazy gemstone, with its own "moonlight effect" - this is the unique optical effect of moonstone, which means that as the moonstone rotates, a certain angle will show a white to blue floating effect. Moonstones are usually translucent and have a milky or silvery-white sheen, while moonstone with a blue luster is the most valuable, but rarely appears in gemstones larger than 15-20 carats.
Moonstone
The best moonstone is mainly produced in Sri Lanka and southern India. Other varieties appear in Australia, Armenia, Mexico, Brazil and the United States. Rainbow-colored moonstones can be found in India and Madagascar.
Adam Foster Constellation bracelets moonstone, diamond
Big names such as Cartier and Tiffany have also used moonstone to make high-bead designs, but perhaps because high-quality large carat moonstones are rare, there is no trend, but as long as you start with a few masterpieces.
Cartier is set with a necklace of 47.13 carats of moonstone
The "lucky goose" who got the big carat of high-quality moonstone this year is The Bowman Randow, who is launching the High Pearl series for the third time this year. This newly released La Gioia series is about a nature walk from sunrise to night, and naturally it is impossible to be without the bright moonlight. The Little Princess necklace features a 55.2 ct moonstone that radiates a mesmerizing display of stars surrounded by 2,082 diamonds. The Montenapoleone earrings in the same series are set with 47.17 carats of moonstone, which shines like a hazy moon.
Pomellato Bowmanlando La Gioia Fine Jewelry Collection Moonstone, Diamonds
The "highlight" period of moonstone was the Art Nouveau period at the beginning of the last century, which can be said to be a "flow of small students", because the hazy effect of this mysterious cold light and the translucent empty window enamel technique that was popular at that time were simply not too compatible. A large number of exquisite and beautiful jewelry masterpieces have emerged.
FJ Partridge for Liberty & Co, crowned around 1900s Moonstone, Horn
The jewelry master who is best at moonstone design is René Lalique, the representative of the Art Nouveau movement, his jewelry has always been symbolic, there are many metaphors, and the moonstone with its own mysterious Buff has of course become his favorite, and the horn, mother-of-pearl shell, and empty window enamel have become his favorite performance materials, translucent hazy beauty conveys obscure code words, perfect!
René Lalique carved an adult face out of moonstone
René Lalique moonstone pendant
René Lalique moonstone pendant
Another representative, Louis Comfort Tiffany, also loves moonstone, and he loves to draw inspiration from nature and complete many of the big pieces of moonstone.
Louis Comfort Tiffany Moonstone set
After the Art Nouveau movement, the bright and modern Art Deco style emerged, and the gentle moonstone gradually fell silent, until the rise of the "Flower Child" style in the 1960s, which made some jewelry designers notice the romantic moonstone, Jean Schlumberger once designed a jellyfish brooch inlaid with moonstone for the socialite Mrs. Mellon, and the translucent moonstone with blue light perfectly showed the floating state of the jellyfish in the water.
Jean Schlumberger jellyfish brooch Moonstone, diamond, sapphire
Verdura, another jeweler who was on the same level as Jean Schlumberger at the time, also created his signature Dogwood cuff bracelet with moonstone, using translucent moonstone to create petals, with brilliant sapphire as the flower bud, set on the onyx, the texture and color changes are layered, simple and generous.
Verdura-designed Dogwood Cuff bracelet Moonstone, sapphire, onyx
After that, moonstone slowly became the material of jewelry designers' "inspiration", which is rare in high bead circles, but as long as it appears, it is undoubtedly a masterpiece, with the high beads this season, designers' preference for translucent materials, maybe it is possible to go further?
So do Jimei feel the unique beauty of these "niche gems"? Have you planted grass? What they all have in common is that they have a strong personality, and it takes great skill and creativity to complete a masterpiece, but the charm of fine jewelry lies in creativity, isn't it? Only by constantly introducing new materials can new designs prove the "status of the jewelry masters". At the same time, it also gives you young sisters who love jewelry the opportunity to meet some "new faces" or the other side of classic gemstones
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