The Paper's reporter Chen Jun
Song Yiling in the game.
In the past two days, two famous Chinese players, Pan Yufei and Song Yiling, have not been able to participate in the final of the climbing project of the Tokyo Olympic Games, especially the female athlete Song Yiling's exit is regrettable.
As the current fifth-ranked speed racer in the world, Song Yiling ranked third in the first speed race, but did not play well in the bouldering and difficulty races, failing to grab a ticket to the final.
Pan Yufei.
Unreasonable event settings?
After the game, Song Yiling revealed that there were some mistakes in the first climb of his speed race, which led to a recurrence of an old injury to his left shoulder, which directly affected his subsequent races.
However, after Song Yiling completed the second climb in the case of injury, the speed race still reached 7.46 seconds.
It seems that in addition to the injury, what is even more fatal for her is the project setting of the Climbing Competition at the Tokyo Olympics - the final result includes speed, bouldering and difficulty, and to achieve a good result, it is necessary to go hand in hand in the three small events, and this project setting confuses most of the participants.
At present, many contestants have questioned such an arrangement.
Song Yiling suffered a recurrence of a shoulder injury during the match.
Tom O'Halloran of Australia said: "It's a rather brutal layout, like letting track and field athletes who only train individuals suddenly go to play shot put, 100 meters and 1500 meters in a few completely different events. ”
American Coleman also holds a similar view, "The Olympic Games are completely different from regular international climbing competitions, speed, bouldering and difficulty climbing used to be separate, athletes usually focus on individual events, it is difficult for us to take care of the training of the three sports." ”
Ever since rock climbing joined the Olympics in 2016, the format of the competition has been a concern for the climbing community. Many of the top climbers did not qualify for the Olympics, such as the world record holder for speed climbing, Indonesia's Vidrik Leonardo.
Adam Ondra, who is considered the best climber in the world, also said bluntly in an interview: "There is no point in setting up such a thing as [the Olympics], because there are so many types of rock climbing." ”
There is still a long way to climb in China
Song Yiling broke the world record in rock climbing speed competitions and was once known as "the fastest climbing girl in the world", but the problem of Olympic events tied her hands and feet.
To a certain extent, Song Yiling's final ranking of 12th place and failure to advance to the final is not a big cold, and head coach Zhao Lei also admitted after the game that the players have tried their best and played their own level.
In addition to Song Yiling, the performance of the male player Pan Yufei throughout the game is also a typical example, the speed race is his weakness, in the first speed race he ranked first among all 20 players.
At that time, Pan Yufei said: "I am very disappointed in myself, if it is very unfavorable to bring this mood to the next round, I will not give up, after all, the Olympic Games such an opportunity is too rare." ”
In the subsequent bouldering and difficulty races, Pan Yufei won the 8th and 7th places respectively, but was trapped in the speed race, and he finally finished with a total score of 14th, failing to enter the top eight finals.
This is the first time that the climbing project has entered the Olympic Games, and it is bound to go through running-in and optimization, and zhao Lei, the coach of the climbing team, is also full of hope for the disciples, "They still have a long way to grow, and they will accumulate more competition experience and broaden their horizons in the future." China Rock Climbing will also continue to prepare for the Hangzhou Asian Games and the Paris Olympic Games, and strive to catch up with the world-class level as soon as possible. ”
In addition to the continuous improvement of competitive rock climbing in China, the mass base behind rock climbing is also growing.
According to the statistics of the China Mountaineering Association, by the end of 2020, the total number of natural climbing and climbing routes in the country will exceed 8,000, and there will be 300 registered climbing clubs. Relevant people said: "The social foundation of China's rock climbing is rapidly expanding, and it will definitely lead the world in terms of competition and industry in the future." ”
Editor-in-Charge: Ascendas
Proofreader: Yan Zhang