If only measured by ingredients
Shanghai's high-end restaurants are mostly not worth it
Head stove Chinese cuisine
Recently, the first place in the black and red of Shanghai's food industry must be "Chinese food and Japanese food".
The popular Japanese omakase refers to diners who do not have the right to order, and the chef cooks what you eat. A Chinese restaurant in Shanghai called "Touzao Chinese Cuisine" has followed the example of Omakase and created a creative Chinese food.
Such a meal is not cheap, 2200 per capita, and Shanghai's high-end Japanese food is comparable.
It sounds like it raises the value of Chinese food, but the pictures that have been circulated are somewhat bumpy: the storefront is simply decorated, and each dish is divided into only a pitiful one or two sticks, including cheap home-cooked dishes such as mapo tofu and small greens... Many people think that this is the legendary IQ tax.
But don't say, the more the head stove is scolded, the more fiery it is.
Because it only entertains 6 people a night, the restaurant that was originally booked a month in advance is now located in June, and it is difficult to find a restaurant.
How much of the Chinese omakase is real material, how much is a meaningless flower head, we found the food master Ah Shui who has eaten the head stove, and asked him to answer his questions.
01
Is it tasty?
Skilled and distinctive
I can say that I was one of the first guests of the first stove.
I saw the news that the head stove opened the door in the circle of friends. Around the middle of January this year, it opened in the past position of high-end Japanese seasoning, continuing the configuration in front of the japanese seasoning board, and making a bit of Chinese food, similar to the form of Japanese omakase.
I went to eat in late January, so I ate the first set of menus.
Eating, in fact, is still relatively casual, there are no special rules. Set a good position and eat normally.
Not as "humble" as the Internet says.
In terms of taste, I was overall satisfied. And its division of different ingredients on the menu makes me think the concept of the restaurant is interesting and complete, which I like.
The head stove is Cantonese cuisine, and you can see that the menu is more of a variety of stir-fry: hot stir-fry, soft stir-fry, etc., which require different techniques.
For example, like a mussel, it is indeed fried enough to be refreshing enough to be tender; river eel, the skin is very Q; Shunde's fried milk, the softness and humidity are also very moderate. We usually say that the pot gas is good, the temperature is good, the degree of grasp of these ingredients is very different, as far as the technology is concerned, I think the level of the head stove is high.
Including its main shark fin spring roll, from the crispness of shark fin, the seasoning of the heart-wrapped stir-fry, the whole shape of the spring roll and the sense of air, are very good.
However, there are many shops where spring rolls are done well, so I am not particularly impressed compared to stir-fry.
Of course, there are also dishes that are not very satisfactory. It has a small dish called saliva fish, which is in the form of raw fish, and a special sauce is poured on the fish.
Although Cantonese people also eat crispy fish and fish raw or something, this form is too much like sashimi. Makes it seem a bit counterproductive throughout the menu.
02
Are you well fed?
Of course, not having enough to eat can be added
My meal size is normal, I don't say I eat a lot or eat less.
There is certainly no problem with this full meal.
First of all, it has a lot of dishes on the menu. There are also some clear-mouth dishes uploaded on the Internet, which are not on the menu, so there will be more dishes to eat.
Secondly, dishes with rice, such as mapo tofu, these can be added.
The hot stir-fried dishes that everyone cares about the most can also be added. On the day we ate, after the chef fried the fish balls, the rest of the fried part was split into wine for us. Including guifei crispy chicken, after the division, you can add more if you want.
If you didn't eat enough at the time, you can add a dish, not just give you a bite.
We were all full that day, and everyone was quite satisfied, because the dishes were really delicious. Of course, there are also some problems, such as some dishes are difficult to maintain after the temperature is divided. Because it is relatively small, it is not so hot when it is served on the plate, which is a small regret.
However, many Chinese restaurants now have a long moving line from the back kitchen to the front hall. If you don't use a heating stove or a small candle to make a warm, it will be cooled off a little, which is difficult to avoid.
It's true that some people criticize the temperature of the head lesion, but I don't think it's a big problem. It takes one bite at a time, you come up and eat it and it is gone, and everyone's requirements for temperature are not high to this extent.
03
Is the price reasonable?
Small and expensive, but not as expensive
Head stove 2000 yuan for one person, 10% service charge, one person is 2200. To be honest I think the price is really expensive, but it is not selling something for 20 yuan to 2000, not to say that it is a sky-high price.
First, let's look at the ingredients. In fact, you can see from the menu that this price is actually not as unreasonable as the internet transmission.
Many people criticize chicken, vegetable hearts, mapo tofu can not be worth so much money, but in fact, there are many so-called precious ingredients, including lobster, wagyu beef, tiger spot, elephant mussels and the like. It's just that these graphs haven't been disseminated.
Second, look at its geographical location and other costs.
We can count the turnover of the first stove, only one round of hospitality a night, that is, 6 people, 13200 yuan, less than 400,000 a month.
It is open in the center of Shanghai, the rent is not cheap, counting the labor costs of the chef team and the service team, the chef is not an ordinary chef, it is Tang Ge's new master Li Yuxiong, who has also been a chef in the Xianjing terrace in the center of Shanghai.
After deducting utilities and coal, this store may not be a particularly profitable store.
04
Is Shanghai's high-end dining worth it?
Vary
2,000 yuan to eat a meal is not worth it, it is a completely subjective feeling.
Everyone's needs are different.
Some people's first priority is to eat a full stomach, then I think this meal is not worth it. Some people want the environment, the experience, the ingredients, the new way to play, the new interpretation, then it is worth it.
If you only measure it by ingredients, most high-end restaurants in Shanghai are not worth it. Let's say you go eat a Michelin three-star UV, which has an 8,000-dollar set menu. On the one hand, this is "eating", on the other hand, you have to feel it as an interested diner, to feel its experiential, creative things, this experience becomes part of the "worthy", in order to get the "8000 pieces" feeling.
So I feel like this thing varies from person to person, and there's essentially no worthy answer. Just like when we buy a bag, some people buy 200, some people buy 2000, and some people buy 20,000 or 200,000, it all depends on whether you are willing to spend more money to eat or buy a bag.
This is the same in the head stove.
But if you want to say that comparing it in Shanghai's high-end catering, it is not too innovative.
The head stove is essentially a traditional Cantonese dish, but it uses the presentation method in front of the board, and this presentation method is simply to divide the meal.
Removing the "blessing" of public opinion on the head stove, in fact, it is not particularly prominent in the various creative restaurants in Shanghai, and it is not worth so much discussion.
That's why I think 2,000 is really expensive.
Text, Editor/siri110
The pictures in the text are from the tree and are used with permission
The above content is from "The Bund TheBund" (WeChat: the-bund)
Lawyers have been authorized to pursue and protect the copyright of articles.
Welcome to share, leave a message to communicate. Please indicate the source of the reprint.