Mawangdui Han Tomb unearthed a lot of textiles, the variety is particularly complete. These textiles are introduced in many books, with pictures. However, only when you see it with your own eyes will you understand how exquisite the textiles of the Western Han Dynasty are and how developed the textile industry of the Han Dynasty was.
Plain gauze
There are hundreds of pieces of silk, linen fabrics and costumes unearthed from Xin Chai's tomb. There are those placed in bamboo stalks, there are also those that wrap utensils, and there are those that collect corpses. Hemp includes ramie, hemp, silk yarn, qi, luo, brocade, as well as embroidery, as well as three-dimensional effect of the velvet brocade.
Cannabis cloth
There are many types of "hemp", and there is a relatively high-grade cloth called "hemp", which is woven with the fibers of the plant "ramie". Ramie belongs to the nettle family, its fibers are thin and smooth, very tough, silky luster, ramie pull is very strong and elastic. The "ramie" woven with ramie is white and light like a cloud, and it is easy to dry and easy to dissipate heat after moisture absorption, so it is very comfortable to wear, cool and smooth in summer, and it is a very high-grade fabric lining.
Hemp cloth
In the Han Dynasty, ramie could be finely processed, and the high-grade ramie made was called "Huangrun", which was a specialty of Shuzhong in the Han Dynasty, specializing in the precious clothing of summer clothes. Because it is not bleached, it has a natural yellow color and is as smooth as silk, so it is called "yellow run", which is light, thin and soft. This kind of "Huangrun" was mentioned in the Han Fu everyone Yang Xiong's "Shu Du Fu", saying that "Huangrun in the tǒng (筩) (tǒng) is counted at one end", which roughly means that the cloth like "Huangzhong" and the "Huangrun" are all precious fabrics, and the price of several gold cakes is roughly a few zhang, which can be said to be very expensive.
Silk place chess pattern embroidery
The "hemp" worn by ordinary people refers to "hemp", and the clothing woven from the hemp thread produced by hemp is called "cloth", which is the main raw material for ordinary people to wear clothes, so in ancient times, the common people were also called "cloth clothes". The epidermis of the stem of hemp is the raw material of hemp, but this hemp skin contains colloids and impurities in addition to hemp fiber, so it is necessary to degumm before hemp. The way of degumming can be soaked, soaking the hemp skin into water, so that it can ferment naturally to achieve the purpose of degumming.
Silk-based rudder embroidery
"帛" is used as a general term for silk fabrics, or "缯". "Drapery" is worn by the rich and noble, as a large category of silk fabrics, there are many specific classifications. Silkworm cocoons are reeled into silk if they have not been boiled and rinsed, which is called "raw silk", and the silk fabric woven from raw silk is called "silk". White raw silk is called "vegetarian". "Plain" is white and delicate, in addition to being able to make clothing, many calligraphy and painting works in the past are also created with "plain". If the fine silk woven with double silk is called "silk", the boiled white silk is called "practice". The white "practice" is used as a mourning dress, and the ancient mourning clothes are complex, and the "practice" is worn when the "training festival" is held. If you usually use "practice" as a dress, you are very frugal.
Rhodi letter embroidery with diamond pattern
The thin and light silk fabric is called "hú", which is now called "yarn" fabric, and "crepe" is silk. The fabric of the plain gauze tunic is exactly "crepe", that is, crepe. This crepe garment from more than 2,000 years ago weighs only a few dozen grams, as thin as a cicada wing, like smoke like fog.
Silk longevity embroidery
"The weaving element is Wen Yue Qi", which is a jacquard fabric of the flat twill flower type. It is monochrome, plain, woven with raw silk, and can be dyed after weaving, that is, it is colored by boiling and washing. There are many Mawangdui Han tombs, with realistic plants, animals, and geometric patterns such as diamonds. "Luo" and "Qi" are silk fabrics with different weaving methods. The most excavated from the Mawangdui Han Tomb is the Diamond Pattern Luo, which is more difficult to weave and requires the cooperation of two people. Luo is also dyed after weaving, and can also be embroidered with Luo.
The "nishiki" is tight and strong, and is woven with cooked silk. The brocade is dyed with silk before it is put on the loom. There are also many kinds of brocade in the Mawangdui Han Tomb, including geometric brocade, animal pattern brocade, and zhuyi brocade with flat flowers; as well as geometric brocade with a convex effect; as well as hidden patterned floral brocade, corrugated brocade, and animal pattern brocade. More special is the "velvet brocade", which is interwoven with multi-color warp and monochrome weft, and the surface decoration presents a three-dimensional ring-shaped velvet ring. Velvet brocade is usually used to make the collar and sleeve edge of the robe, and can also be used to make sachets, pillow scarves and so on.
Embroidery to the bird diamond pattern by the clouds
Silk, silk, luo, and brocade can all be embroidered. The most patterned ones are letter embroidery, longevity embroidery, and cloud embroidery. Letter embroidery is a long-tailed bird; longevity embroidery is a variety of colorful silk threads woven into flowers, leaves, clouds; cloud embroidery is churning clouds, and hidden in the clouds of the sacred beasts. All three types of embroidery were high-grade embroidery that was popular at the time, especially letter period embroidery.
-------------------------------------------------------------
<h1 class="pgc-h-arrow-right" data-track="21" > Yuanji, editor-in-chief of the Guide to the Yuanji Museum, cultural scholar, and historical writer</h1>
Major works: "Legend of the Dragon and Phoenix", "The Hegemony of the Three Kingdoms in the Chaotic World of the North and the South", "Gao ChengChuan", "Love Exploration of Tailing", "Twenty-seven Years of Yin Chan", "Lost in the Ancient Kingdom" series in ancient China, "Interpretation of Chinese Character Names in Museum Bronzes" series, "Chinese Characters" Glyph Interpretation, "History of western Zhou in Bronze Inscriptions", "Jin Dynasty Hegemony", "Dream Back to Spring and Autumn", "Spring and Autumn Character Stories", etc.