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In ancient Chinese silk fabrics, the most high-grade is silk, the highest grade of silk is brocade, and the most noble brocade is Nanjing Yunjin, which is also known as the "crown of brocade".
Among the four famous brocades, Chengdu Shu brocade is named after the place of origin, Suzhou Song brocade is named after the dynasty, Guangxi Zhuangjin is named after the nationality, but Nanjing Yunjin is named because of its brilliant color and beauty like the clouds in the sky.
Nanjing Yunjin Collection is the culmination of the art of weaving cotton in the past, and ranks first among the four famous brocades in China.
The Yuan, Ming and Qing dynasties were all royal tributes, and because of their rich culture and connotations, they were called the last milestones in the history of ancient Chinese brocade weaving.
Nanjing Yunjin
Nanjing Yunjin is a traditional Chinese silk handicraft, known as "inch brocade inch gold", its history can be traced back to 417 (the thirteenth year of the Eastern Jin Dynasty Yixi) in the capital Jiankang (now Nanjing) to set up a special management of brocade official office - the Brocade Office, has a history of 1,600 years.
Today, only Yunjin still maintains the traditional characteristics and unique skills, and has always retained the traditional jacquard wood machine weaving, which is still unable to be replaced by modern machines.
Origin of the word Yunjin
The Ming Dynasty poet Wu Meicun described Yunjin in "Wangjiangnan": "Jiangnan is good, the machine is robbing the heavens, the peacock makeup is rotten, the ice silkworm spits phoenix mist, and the new small tuanlong".
In fact, in the Ming Dynasty, there was no word yunjin, and the satin that entered the royal family at that time was called Kujin, Ku satin and makeup flowers.
The term "Yunjin" comes from the "Yunjin Weaving House" located in Nanjing during the Daoguang years of the Qing Dynasty.
The earliest written record of "Yunjin" in the industry is from the "Semi-monthly Magazine of Industry and Commerce" in Nanjing, Republic of China.
Because of its exquisite materials, fine weavers, elegant and rich pattern colors, like the magnificence of the clouds in the sky, and only produced in Nanjing, it is called "Nanjing Cloud Brocade".
Yunjin development history
Nanjing Yunjin has a history of 1600 years.
Among them, the process "weaving gold ornaments" began about the Yuan Dynasty, and the "colored makeup flower weaving gold ornaments" flourished in the Ming and Qing dynasties. And these three generations have incorporated Yunjin into the official management system, and the royal history has reached 700 years.
Yuan
The weaving agencies set up by the central government in Nanjing in the Yuan Dynasty, called the "East and West Weaving and Dyeing Bureau", belonged to the inner court.
The products are exclusively for the use of the imperial front and middle palaces, and produce silk fabrics such as dragon robes, python costumes and imperial official uniforms and various colors of floral forgings.
bright
The Ming Dynasty court continued to set up the "Inner Weaving and Dyeing Bureau" in Nanjing, also known as the "South Bureau", as well as the "Shen Shuai Hall" and "Supply Machine Room".
clear
The Qing government directly set up the "Jiangning Weaving Bureau" in Nanjing to supervise the production of Yunjin. This is one of the three major weaving offices parallel to Suzhou and Hangzhou.
Republic of China - War of Resistance
Yun Jinye once declined.
In 1948
There are only 4 looms left in Nanjing, and 8 brocade workers.
At that time, the only place in Nanjing that was still producing Yunjin was the Zhongxingyuan Silk Weaving Factory in the Qing Dynasty, which became the oldest and last brocade weaving factory in Nanjing.
In 1954
Nanjing City set up the Yunjin Research Working Group
In 1957
Yunjin Research Institute was officially established
After rescue protection, Yunjin's skills have been inherited and innovated.
Successfully and scientifically copied the "Plain Silk Robe" excavated from the Mawangdui Han Tomb in Changsha, and the Ming Wanli Emperor's "Weaving Gold Peacock Feather Makeup Flower Dragon Robe" excavated from the Ding Mausoleum of the Thirteen Tombs in Beijing, so that the precious traditional skills will not be annihilated.
The uniqueness of Yunjin
Makeup and flower fabrics are varieties that represent the characteristics and styles of Yunjin's craftsmanship.
The pattern layout is rigorous and solemn, the pattern shape is concise and generalized, most of which are arranged in four directions for large and full patterns, and there are also large makeup fabrics (such as Ming and Qing Dynasty dragon robes, Kang mattress blanket cushions, etc.) that are fully framed and matched as a single and suitable pattern.
It is contrasted with intense colors, and is often decorated with gold thread or gold and silver thread.
Through the transition of white phase or color halo, the weft pipe small shuttle digs flowers to decorate the color, the fabric is beautiful and thick, and the gold color shines, which is an important feature of yun brocade that distinguishes it from other brocades such as Shu brocade and Song brocade.
Yunjin's application for heritage was successful
The state attaches great importance to the protection of intangible cultural heritage, and the hand-weaving technique of Nanjing Yunjin wood machine makeup flower is the representative of the highest level of ancient brocade weaving skills in the mainland.
May 2006
The hand-weaving technique of Nanjing Yunjin wood machine makeup flower was approved by the State Council to be included in the first batch of national intangible cultural heritage list.
August 2009
The national standard of "Geographical Indication Product Yunjin" passed the national expert review in Nanjing
September 2009
At its meeting, the UNESCO Intergovernmental Committee for the Safeguarding of the Intangible Cultural Heritage decided:
The weaving technique of Cloud Brocade in Nanjing, China was successfully selected into the Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.
Yunjin heritage protection
June 2009
After the successful application of Nanjing Yunjin, the Nanjing Yunjin Transmission and Learning Base of the China Intangible Cultural Heritage Protection Center was inaugurated in June 2009 at the Nanjing Yunjin Research Institute.
This is the first learning base established by the China Intangible Cultural Heritage Conservation Center in the country.
Nanjing Yunjin Research Institute, as the unit responsible for the protection of Yunjin project, has confirmed 24 representative inheritors, including 1 national non-hereditary inheritor, 2 non-genetic inheritors in Jiangsu Province, and 4 non-genetic inheritors in Nanjing.
Cloud brocade stamps
March 2013
Nanjing Yunjin College was established in the Suiyuan Campus of Nanjing Normal University.
This marks that the "living fossil" of China's brocade weaving craft has a special scientific research and skill inheritance talent training institution.
Conclusion
Nanjing Yunjin is recognized as "Oriental Treasure" and "China's Best".
It represents the highest achievement of Chinese silk weaving technology, condenses the essence of Chinese silk weaving technology, and is the brilliant crystallization of Chinese silk culture.