Forbidden fishing does not forget the rhyme of Jiangnan

The land of Jiangnan, the land of fish and rice.

Fisheries are one of the earliest ways of human life and production. As a major fishing country, China's fishing culture has a long history and rich connotations. Since the middle of the Tang Dynasty, Jiangnan has increasingly become an important place of wealth, and the fishing culture in this area has also prospered and enriched.

Since January 1 last year, the key waters of the Yangtze River Basin have implemented a "ten-year fishing ban". This also means that the Yangtze River labor scenes such as "a flat leaf boat" and "fishing boat singing late" have also disappeared, and the fishing culture of the Yangtze River that has lasted for thousands of years is facing the danger of being lost from generation to generation.

Fisherman painting Yang Huogen painted

"The fish in the water and the people on the shore are connected by the bond of fishing culture." Professor Pan Yingjie, former president of Shanghai Ocean University, said, "The protection of fishing culture is also one of the important components of the protection of the Yangtze River. The reporter learned that the census of fishery cultural resources in key areas of the lower reaches of the Yangtze River has been launched.

Shanghai abbreviation comes from fishing gear

"Do you know the origin of 'Shanghai'?" In class, Ningbo, a professor at Shanghai Ocean University, asked questions.

"'Shanghai' is not the abbreviation of Shanghai!" The college students replied with a smile, as if they were confident.

"It seems to have nothing to do with shanghai's urban landscape today, but 'Shanghai' is an ancient fishing gear, and its prototype can even be traced back to the Neolithic age." Ningbo released a picture, and the students in the audience showed a surprised expression.

"Our ancestors were very clever. They plant bamboo or pile stones as dams along the coastal banks of the river, and use the tidal difference to intercept fish and shrimp, and those who use bamboo are called bamboo Hu, and those who use stone are called Shi Hu. Ningbo explained to reporters. The Southern Dynasty Gu Ye Wang's "Chronicle of Youdi" made a detailed description of this tool: "Insert bamboo into the sea, weave it with rope, stretch two wings to the shore, the tide rises and falls, and the fish and crabs are not allowed to go with the tide. Because it was used in rivers, "扈" was later added with three points of water, that is, the simplified word "Hu" in traditional form.

Ningbo added that "Shanghai" was first seen in place names, dating back to the Eastern Jin Dynasty. At that time, the Wusong River led directly to the sea, and the coastal residents placed bamboo on the beach, woven with ropes, and the roots were inserted into the mudflats, and the mighty bamboo wall opened its wings to the two banks of the Wusong River to meet the fish, shrimp and crabs that came with the tide. And the trumpet-shaped estuary is also called "desecration", so the area around the Wusong River is called "Hudu".

"At that time, although fishermen used a lot of fishing gear, the most common was 'Shanghai', which was later renamed 'Hu'." Ningbo explained that this is because people have become accustomed to using "Hu" for the name of the river at this time, so in order to avoid conceptual confusion, they created another "簖" character to call this fishing gear. Due to the simple production, easy to use and rich harvest, "簖" has long been used as one of the traditional fishing gear along the Wusong River and even in Jiangnan, and the historical "Shanghai" has also been used as a place name.

When the autumn wind rises, Shanghai gourmets love hairy crabs. Shouting smoothly, but what is so exquisite, have you ever thought about it? "One way of saying that the name 'gate' is related to the way crabs are caught — bamboo is the 'gate', and the crab caught on the crab is called the hairy crab." Ningbo said, "There is also a saying that the so-called 'hairy crab' may have evolved from the 'big crab'. ”

Originally, "煠" refers to a method of placing food in water, first boiling over a high heat and then cooking it slowly. In the ancient pronunciation, the pronunciation of "煠" and "闸" is very similar. Legend has it that during the Qing Dynasty, there were special crab sellers carrying burdens, walking the streets and alleys, and shouting loudly to sell crabs. Everyone gradually became familiar with this name, and then in people's word of mouth, the pronunciation of "big crab" changed, becoming the "hairy crab" in today's Shanghai population.

"Shanghai also has many precious fishing cultural resources. For example, Jinshanzui Fishing Village is a famous fishing port in Shanghai, and marine fisheries have been very prosperous in history. Ningbo said.

There are many interesting stories about fishermen in the Yangtze River Delta

"The comprehensive strategic partnership between Shanghai Ocean University and Qingtian County in Zhejiang Province has been almost five years." Liu Qigen, a professor at the university, said, "The two sides have cooperated in the protection of germplasm resources, the selection and breeding of excellent strains, large-scale breeding and breeding, and talent training of Qingtiantian fish. ”

Qingtian field fish, what's the beginning? Liu Qigen introduced that Qingtian rice field fish farming has a history of more than 1300 years, Qingtian ancestors rely on the "nine mountains, half water and half field" geomorphological characteristics, according to local conditions to reclaim terraces to develop agriculture, both rice and fish farming, creating a "rice-fish symbiosis system". In this system, rice provides shade and organic food for field fish, and field fish play a role in insect control and weed control, loosening soil and fattening, etc., forming an organic ecological cycle, so that the system does not need to use chemical fertilizers and pesticides to maintain stable and efficient production, to achieve the production effect of "one water dual use, one field dual use, rice and fish double harvest". "The 'Qingtian Rice-Fish Symbiosis System' was also listed by the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations as one of the first globally important agricultural cultural heritages!" He said.

"There are many interesting fishing cultures in the Yangtze River Delta region, and if you list them all, you can't finish them for a few days and nights." Professor Ningbo said with a smile. Just talking about fishing boats, the main tools of fishery production, has bred a lot of fishing culture - in Qidong, Jiangsu Province, when fishermen nail new boats, the craftsmen must embed a "descendant money" into the middle seam of the bow backwards, and say that "Hezi" is flattering and looking forward to "smooth sailing"; in Taizhou, Zhejiang, most of the shipbuilding starts to choose the time of high tide to please the auspiciousness of "wealth like the tide".

"Fishermen around Dianshan Lake are quite particular about catching and eating fish: Mandarin fish in the First Moon Pond, Mandarin fish in February, Turtle in March, Anchovy in April, Whitefish in May, Bream in June, Eel in July, Catfish in August, Crucian carp in September, Grass carp in October, Silver carp in November, and Bluefish in December." Ningbo introduced, "During the fishing season, fishermen in Dianshan Lake often use fishing gear such as traction nets, wire nets, and wrapped nets. ”

Ningbo also specifically mentioned the marriage customs of fishermen in the Taihu Lake Basin. "In the Changxing and Huzhou areas of South Taihu Lake, after the fisherman officially betrothed, the son-in-law of Maozu must carry a pair of carp with red paper on the New Year's Festival, visit his future parents-in-law, and at the same time, after marriage, he must still use fish as a courtesy to honor his father-in-law and mother-in-law for three consecutive years."

"Tonight the fish is dressing up and making a goddess to meet the King of Xiang." It is worth mentioning that yue opera, as one of the most representative opera genres in Jiangnan, also has many performances of fishing culture - in the representative drama "Chasing Fish", generations of Wang Pai Hua Dan interpret the moving story of the amorous carp spirit falling in love with the fallen students in the world.

To ban fishing, it is even more necessary to protect the fishing culture

"From the environment of traditional fishing villages to fishing songs, fishing customs, fishing customs; from fishing methods such as fishing boats, fishing gear, and osprey fishing to the production and life of fishermen on lianjia boats, from the fishing memories of ancestors to the fishermen's simple feelings about the 'unity of man and water' in the Yangtze River, these are important marks and rich heritage of fishing culture, which should be protected in a timely and targeted manner." Pan Yingjie said.

Chinese civilization has long had "exhausting and fishing, don't you get it?" And next year there will be no fish"; and dayu's ban on "in the summer and March, Kawazawa does not enter the net, to the length of adult fish turtles" became the world's first fishery protection decree. In Pan Yingjie's view, the ban on fishing in the Yangtze River is not only to repair the ecology of the Yangtze River, but also to inherit and carry forward the excellent traditional culture.

However, a current situation that cannot be ignored is that after the "ten-year ban on fishing" in the Yangtze River, fishing boats were confiscated and dismantled, fishing gear was uniformly destroyed, the main body of Yangtze River fishing culture - fishermen washed their feet ashore, and the elements of Yangtze River fishing culture are disappearing. "You know, in many places, the activities that are familiar with fishery production, retain fishermen's life memories, and inherit fishery culture and skills are basically elderly fishermen, and this group of people have changed production and aged in the process of 'ten years of fishing ban'." Pan Yingjie told reporters, "If you don't act immediately, the memory of the history of the Yangtze River fishery is likely to gradually fade within ten years, and the Mother River will also lack a valuable cultural landscape." ”

Ningbo also agrees with Pan Yingjie's point of view, "In fact, the fishing culture of the Yangtze River can also help the transformation and upgrading of fisheries and play a leisure and entertainment function." ”

The reporter learned that Wuhu, Anhui Province, has started the construction of China (Wuhu) Yangtze River Fishing Culture Museum (tentative name), the main exhibition area of 35,000 square meters, the number of collections of more than 10,000 pieces, the permanent "Chinese Fishery History and Fishing Culture History Exhibition", "Yangtze River Basin Fishermen and Fishing Village Culture Exhibition", "Yangtze River Basin Traditional Fishing Boats, Fishing Gear and Fishing Law Exhibition", "Yangtze River Aquatic Organisms and Fishery Resources Exhibition" and "Yangtze River Ten Years Of Fishing Ban and Ecological Civilization Exhibition" five exhibition areas, and the Ningbo team also undertook the "Chinese Fishery History and Fishing Culture History Exhibition" Collection of related exhibitions in the section. Ningbo said that in the future, the team will go deep into the folk to excavate, collect and sort out the architectural landscape of the fishing village, the fishing gear and fishing method, the fishermen's daily necessities, customs and taboos, historical myths and legends.

"At present, there are all kinds of museums, but there is no special fish culture museum, which is a pity." Pan Yingjie said that he hopes that after the completion of the museum, more young people and students can be attracted to a cultural class and biology class.

Xinmin Evening News reporter Gao Yang