Original text: apricot cheese: pound the almonds into a pulp, remove the residue, mix rice flour, add sugar and boil.
Chun Yuan Mei "Suiyuan Food List" dim sum list
What is "cheese"? In the past, Beijingers collectively referred to cheese-like paste foods as "cheese." Cheese was originally a food made from the milk of cows, horses, sheep, camels, etc. such as cheese, cheese, and cheese pastry. It also refers to paste-like foods made of fruits or kernels such as red fruit cheese, almond cheese, walnut cheese, and cheese porridge. The apricot cheese contained in Yuan Ming is also known as almond tea. There are many ancient books like Zhu Yizun's "Food Constitution Hongmi" in the early Qing Dynasty, and Xue Baochen's "Vegetarian DietAry Strategy" in the late Qing Dynasty. The novel "Mirror Flower Edge" once wrote: Tea strikes, slightly describes the warm and cold, and then serves two apricot cheeses, lotus seed soup and the like. "Dream of the Red Chamber" fifty-four times also has Jia Mu's preparation of duck meat porridge, jujube boiled japonica rice porridge, either greasy or sweet, Feng Jie'er rushed to serve almond tea, Jia Mu praised: "This is not enough." The ancients had many records of cold apricot cheese: Sui Du Taiqing's "Jade Candle Treasure Book, February Mid-Spring": "Cold food is also made of liquor cheese... Cheese, apricots are cooked as porridge. Note: "Shi Xi made barley porridge, and studied apricots as cheese." Tang Cuiqiu's poem "Spring Is the Matter": "Apricot cheese is gradually fragrant neighbor porridge, and elm smoke will turn into old furnace ash." Song Fan Chengda's poem "Snow Cold Hearth Collection": "Gao Biao root poured apricot cheese, swirled snow juice to boil pine wind." "Traces of the Flower Moon" 29th time: "Weng Shen brought pine blossom cake and apricot cheese, and the two used some." Mao Dun < > Three: "Frozen apricot cheese, eight treasure soup, cream mille-feuille cake, and a variety of Western-style pastries are laid out on a table." ”
In ancient times, apricot cheese was mostly a cold food festival food, and the Taiping Royal Dictionary quoted Lu Yi's "Book of Yizhong" as saying: "Cold food is made of liquor for three days, and japonica rice and wheat are boiled as cheese, and almonds are pounded to cook as porridge." "It can be seen that the ancients had the custom of preparing apricot cheese for cold food. The Cold Food Festival falls on the 105th day after the winter solstice in the summer calendar and one or two days before the Qingming Festival. At the beginning of the day, when the festival is held, no fire is smoked and only cold food is eaten. Cold food has Lianyun: "Where is the dream of the apricot cheese elm soup in the morning of the hundred and six days; the gansi fanhua letter stone spring locust fire for whom new." The 16th day, also known as the 15th day, is called the Cold Food Festival. From the winter solstice to the cold food is either one hundred and five days, or one hundred and six days, the two theories coexist. The Cold Food Festival, which lasts for more than 2,000 years, was once known as the first festival day of Chinese folk and the only festival in traditional Chinese festivals named after food customs. The Origin of the Cold Food Festival During the Spring and Autumn Period, the Prince of jin went into exile in another country for nineteen years to avoid the disaster, and the chancellor Jiezi Tui always followed left and right, never abandoned; and even "cut the stock of the king". Heavy ear and hard work, became a generation of famous monarchs "Jin Wengong". However, Jiezi Tui did not seek Lilu, and returned to the Hidden Mianshan Mountain with his mother, and Jin Wengong ordered the mountain to be set on fire in order to force him to go out of the mountain to meet him, and Jiezi Tui resolutely did not go out of the mountain, and eventually died of fire. Jin Wengong was grateful for the aspirations of his loyal subjects, buried him in Mianshan Mountain, built a temple, and ordered that fire and cold food be banned on the day of the death of The Meson to send mourning, which is the origin of the "Cold Food Festival".
Almond cheese is made from almonds and is divided into sweet almonds and bitter almonds, almonds are generally divided into sweet almonds and bitter almonds, which are known in pharmacies as south almonds and north almonds. Both are the same in terms of nutritional composition, that is, a difference in taste, a sweet and a bitter. Sweet almonds have rich nutritional value and are very valuable dried fruits on the market, which can be eaten raw and eaten directly. Sweet almonds are not only rich in unsaturated fat, vitamin E, high-quality protein, dietary fiber, but also contain calcium, magnesium, zinc, iron and other minerals, which are easily absorbed by the human body, and can be consumed in summer, which can not only beautify and nourish the face, but also have weight loss effects. Bitter almonds can be used in medicine, bitter almonds contain bitter amygdalasides, which can be hydrolyzed by gastric acid to produce highly toxic substances, generally for medicinal purposes. Chinese medicine has long been used to treat almonds for the treatment of usual diseases. The amygdala glycosides contained in almonds can not only relieve cough and asthma, but also have a huge role in fighting tumors, which is a major contribution to medicine. Almonds can also be made with almond cream, almond butter, almond cheese, almond butter, almond pickles, almond oil, almond flour, etc. Apricot cheese can also be added to the dish, and "Dream Liang" contains five-flavor apricot cheese sheep and five-flavor apricot goose made of apricot cheese.
Apricot elm soup, when coming in the second order; Stone spring locust fire, dreaming of the time of appreciation. In the apricot cheese is a paste made of almonds, that is, almond porridge. Elm soup, also known as elm porridge, is porridge cooked with elm pods or elm skin. As early as the Northern Wei Jia Sixun 'Qi Min Zhi Shu • Boiling Apricot Cheese Porridge Method", apricot cheese still has medicinal value medicinal food, suitable for cold cough, often taken with anti-cancer, anti-cancer effects. In "Pujifang" there is apricot cheese porridge, with 50 ml of thick apricot cheese, 500 ml of yellow milk, and 100 grams of barley. The above three flavors of boiled porridge, into the sugar and it, take it arbitrarily, this apricot cheese porridge is good for the stomach dryness, suitable for diabetes or heart heat inversion, do not eat. In the early Qing Dynasty, Zhu Yizun's "Food Constitution Hong Secret" "apricot cheese": "Jingshi sweet almonds are soaked in hot water, add a pinch of furnace ash, into the water, Hou Leng, that is, pinch the peel, rinse with clean water, and then measure into the water, such as grinding tofu with water grinding." Squeeze the juice out of a silk bag to remove the dregs, mix and cook the juice, such as white sugar frosting. Or add a milk. At the end of the Qing Dynasty, Xue Baochen's "Vegetarian DietAry Strategy" also has a similar description: "Glutinous rice is soaked, plucked very broken, added to the peeled bitter almonds, the same is fine, the slag is cooked, and the sugar is added." ”
Apricot cheese was originally a famous snack in Beijing, but now it is mostly found in Beijing is walnut cheese, which is an elegant Beijing sweet, this thing is influenced by apricot cheese or the influence of cha cheese is unknown, the specific year came out, can not be verified, there is no accurate record in the historical materials. But it is indeed a palace thing, the Qing Dynasty Cixi often eat this kind of food, it is said that in the early years of production, it was also necessary to add some milk, later, I heard that Empress Dowager Cixi did not like it, and since then it has been exempted, but it is still called "cheese". Before 1950, the walnut cheese produced by "Huixian Hall" was the best quality, famous in Beijing, Huixian Hall was originally the private part of the Qing Guangxu Dynasty Ceremonial Department Attendant Bin Ru, located in Qianhai, Shichahai, Beijing, and Juxian Hall, Fushou Hall, Tianfu Hall, Huifeng Hall, Fuqing Hall, Tonghe Hall, Qinghe Hall and called the "Eight Halls" of Beijing, which was once a place for literati and inkers to gather, and it was also a good place for singing halls. Walnut cheese and apricot cheese production method is basically the same, but walnut cheese to add red dates, according to the system law, if you have time, you can look at Liang Shiqiu's Yashe to talk about eating, Mr. Liang is worthy of the food everyone, the ins and outs of walnut cheese, the method of making is written in a vivid and detailed detail, so that you seem to feel, the bowl is slightly purple, jujube fragrance, walnut fragrance, sticky, sweet cheese is in front of you, eager to drink it immediately and swallow it into your throat.
Beijing used to have a snowflake cheese before the advent of ice cream. During the Ming and Qing dynasties, the prototype of snowflake cheese appeared in Beijing; it was used to shave out the ice chips from the natural ice with a planer, and then poured with cheese (dried fruit), red cheese and thick sour plum soup, stirred with a stick in a wooden barrel or porcelain basin, and then put into a cup, half drink and half chew. Its names vary from legend to legend, some say "ice fruit cheese", some say "snow tea". People who say "snow tea" say that the word "snow" is taboo in the palace and the word "blood" is homophonous, and a "flower" word is added in the middle to become "snowflake tea". "Snowflake cheese" is probably a variation of "snowflake tea". When did it change? I don't know. Every year in the fourth month of the lunar calendar, when the City God Temple opens the temple gate, there are snowflake cheese sellers on the steps of the east side hall in front of the main hall. It was the insertion of a round iron cylinder into a barrel slightly shorter than it; the barrel was larger in diameter than the iron cylinder, and the iron cylinder was surrounded by broken ice. To make it, pour cold water (cold boiled water) brown sugar or saccharin and flavor into the iron cylinder. Then wrap the belt around the upper end of the outer skin of the iron cylinder, and repeatedly pull the belt with human power to rotate the iron cylinder, and the water droplets in the cylinder freeze. In order not to freeze into ice cubes, the producer uses a bamboo piece to remove the ice layer on the inner wall of the cylinder many times, so that the cylinder remains semi-liquid, that is, the state of "cheese". The iron cylinder rotates in the ice cube of the wooden barrel, and the more it turns, the more "grain", until it is in the shape of a thick millet porridge, and it is enough. Snowflake cheese food is more refreshing than ice cream, but it is made entirely by hand, and it is a very Chinese cold food. Beijing's tianqiao, Tianjin's old three no matter, bird market have made and sold snowflake cheese food is more refreshing than ice cream, but the production is all manpower, is a very Chinese cold food. Beijing's tianqiao, Tianjin's old three no matter, bird market are manufactured and sold. Snowflake cheese, also known as "soil ice cream", is a snack that poor children in the old society can buy. In winter, a large piece of ice floes on the Yongding River was chiseled out and wrapped in straw mats and put into... It is often children who cry and plead, adults can't fight, buy a bowl of snowflake cheese, and the whole family of 7 or 8 children eat it. Before the advent of ice cream, there was a similar cold food in China, which was snowflake cheese.
Yuan Ming's "Suiyuan Food List and Dim Sum List" contains the method of making apricot cheese,—— pounding almonds as a pulp, removing the residue, mixing rice noodles, and adding sugar to boil it. "Easy to understand now start making apricot cheese: wash the rice glutinous rice according to a 4 to 1 ratio, soak it in cool water for 2 hours; take the sweet almonds and soak them in warm water for 20 minutes, rub off the yellow skin, wash it and grind it with rice and glutinous rice with 250 grams of cold water to grind into a thin paste; filter the residue and set aside. Add cold water to the pot, pour the ground almond paste into the mixture and bring to a boil, then add the sugar and simmer over low heat for a while. When eating, put the almond tea into the bowl, put on the sugar osmanthus juice can be, the apricot cheese is delicate and sweet, moist and not subsistence, spring is warm and cold, everyone does not imitate to drink some apricot cheese, smooth the mood, loosen the gas machine.
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