The records of the Ming Dynasty and qing dynasty on the nanhu boat dishes are lost in simplicity, and most of them only say "can cure the dishes" or "the boat dishes are best with shrimp and crabs, and the rice family does not have this taste".
At the end of the Qing Dynasty, Xu Ke, a hangzhou native, remembered that the menu of the Jiaxing South Lake Boat Banquet in the eighth year of the Republic of China was quite detailed, and I would like to copy it as follows.
There are two kinds of boat dishes for Xu Keji:
One, six large bowls, six small bowls. Six bowls: crab yellow shark fin, eight treasure duck, fish maw, cold mix turtle skirt, ham, tamales. Six small bowls are not detailed.
Two, four large bowls, four small bowls, not recorded in detail. But there are eight small bowls: shrimp, crab powder, hoof tendons, mushrooms, spiced pigeons, shrimp balls, white fungus, and lotus seeds. In addition, in the cold meat basin, there are shelled crab legs planted around the meat, and the middle is filled with crab yellow crab powder, which is similar to the "hibiscus crab" handmade by Zhu Erniang.
Mr. Wang Ziliang, a Jiaxing man who was slightly later than Xu Ke, often participated in boat banquets before and after the War of Resistance Against Japanese Aggression, remembering the "choking shrimp" (also known as "grabbing shrimp")," cutting off the whiskers with live shrimp, and dipping it in red milk and rot and sesame oil and sugar, which was incomparably fresh.
In addition, at that time, Xuangongqiao Liu Hexing Restaurant was also good at cooking boat dishes, and its shark fin sea cucumber and dried scallops were fried with shrimp, which was praised by diners so far.
The names of the boat dishes and the ingredients for the dishes mentioned above are roughly the same. If there is an increase or decrease, it should be mainly based on taking fresh food from the river, such as mandarin fish, black-backed crucian carp, snail green (blue fish), etc., which are all aquarium treasures.
During the Republic of China period, the South Lake passenger tour of the lake mostly used wire mesh boats, there are two kinds of double clip lane and single clip lane. A single clip lane can carry more than ten people and set up a feast; the double clip lane can be doubled, and two feasts can be set up to accommodate more than twenty people to eat and drink on the boat. Boat fare feast fee: 24th Lotus Festival in the sixth month of the lunar calendar, seven beggars festival in July, the two festivals are the highest value, the feast silver ocean sixteen yuan, fourteen yuan, the middle feast silver ocean twelve yuan, ten yuan, usually minus two yuan. Tips and liquor for boat ladies and cooks are not included.
The boat banquet was booked one day in advance on the Lotus Causeway, as Xu Ke said, "Yang Sanguan" was the owner of the ship, when the silk-net boats were moored in the Lotus Causeway outside the North Gate. Board the boat from the Lotus Causeway, go to the Luofan Pavilion for tea, and then join the South Lake from Xiushui and Moat River through the East Gate Lion.
The flavor of boat dishes, take the "South Lake Crab Powder" as an example: four live lake crabs (weighing about 750 grams), steamed and peeled shells, cooked with cooked lard, ginger, salt, rice wine, etc., hooked on the plate, meat like snow, yellow like orange, delicious and abnormal, the mouth of the food is fragrant.
Source: Nanhu District Government
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