A few days ago, an article "Old Shanghai, famous dishes in the eyes of old diners..." attracted everyone's attention, fished up a lot of good appetites, and also felt everyone's love for food, and the small number of men and women in eating was indeed fortunate not to deceive me! Today, I will continue to share a more down-to-earth small article with you to talk about this ordinary small side in the eyes of Teacher Shen Jialu.
Illustration by Mr. Dai Dunbang
Shanghai's "noodle population" is huge, in order to adapt to this huge group, the city's snack bars have been supplying a variety of toppings, such as eel paste noodles, stewed meat noodles, hot sauce noodles, fried sauce noodles, rib noodles, double mushroom noodles, three silk noodles, vegetarian noodles and so on. In recent years, Suzhou noodle restaurants have opened a lot in Shanghai, and smoked fish noodles and braised meat noodles are worth trying. Especially when the northwest wind blows, rushing into the noodle restaurant and calling a bowl of braised meat noodles is the ideal breakfast. The noodles are thin and tough, the noodle soup is wide enough, the pork belly is covered on the noodles, the grease of the white flowers is frozen like mutton fat white jade, and the chopsticks are picked under the noodles for a little simmering, and it immediately becomes translucent. You don't need to bite, just suck with your mouth, and the delicious taste goes straight to the bottom of the tongue. For the sake of oral bliss, I also ignored the doctor's warning and stewed meat in two pieces. Suzhou noodle restaurant also has lamb noodles in the winter, the mutton soup is stewed thickly, and the lamb cut into thin slices is used as a noodle topping, and the taste is extremely fresh. But I prefer to eat white soup lamb with haggis, garlic leaves sprinkled, noodles mixed, fragrant. There is also a kind of lamb noodles that is red soup. Braised lamb is also served in a small bowl, along with the noodles, with meat and bone and soup, salty and sweet. This kind of lamb noodles is called "red sheep" by old diners, and if the lamb is slightly spicy, it is often more delicious.
But I have a soft spot for onions.
Onion noodles is the abbreviation of onion oil open foreign noodles, a kind of dim sum with abbreviation, it shows that it has a long history, the public recognition is high. Onion noodles, the first to promote the City God Temple's lakeside dim sum shop. In the memory of old Shanghai, it has not been erased. Lakeside Dim Sum Shop is next door to Nanxiang Mantou Shop, which is also a Ming and Qing Dynasty building with a white wall of Dewa, which was once part of Yu Garden, and has an elegant building name - Heting, and the back window is pushed open to be a lotus pond, which echoes with the water across the Lake Pavilion. The shallot oil noodles here are made with customized small wide noodles, which still have a strong tenacity after cooking in a large soup pot, and are particularly smooth and elastic after mixing the shallot oil boiled in the store. Kaiyang (known as shrimp rice in the north, golden hook by Cantonese and Hong Kong people) is made in the past, large enough, and evaporated to soft after soaking in yellow wine. The boiling of green onion oil has a special effect, green onion white and a little beijing onion white are put into the oil pot in proportion to boil, the fire can not be too strong, you have to boil slowly like a little daughter-in-law, so that the aroma is just right. Whenever the teacher boils the onion oil, the tourists on the Jiuqu Bridge outside the window can smell this onion fragrance, so it has the reputation of "the lakeside green onion opens the noodles, and the incense floats on the Jiuqu Bridge". For the seasoning, take the prawn rice and soak it with the soy sauce and cook it thoroughly. Such onion oil and Kaiyang sauce are mixed with noodles to eat, which is not fresh or fragrant.
Due to the authentic production of the onion noodles in the Lakeside Dim Sum Shop, the reputation among the people of Shanghai is excellent, and it is also necessary to queue up to eat noodles here. The old eater went in to eat the noodles, and the words must be called "onion blossoms". Once the full name is said, it is not an old eater, and it will be blinded by the service lady. Some people rushed to the City God Temple before going to work to eat green onions and noodles, and then went to the unit to earn his meal tickets. One of my relatives, who lives in Caojiadu, the company on the Bund, rides a bicycle to the City God Temple every morning to eat noodles and then walk, all year round, no matter the wind and rain, the obsession does not change, the taste remains unchanged.
In the years when I lived in the Tianlin area, I also made many special trips to the lakeside to eat green onion noodles with double gear. Double gear - gluten blind leaf is also, this thing allows me to introduce another. Sometimes go to a meeting in Huangpu District, I would rather not eat breakfast and be hungry, in order to have a close contact with the onion noodles, the cost is only a little more than ten yuan, there are dry and wet, very happy stomach. But now the lakeside dim sum shop does not supply green onion noodles, perhaps because there are too many tourists, the supply is not enough, or it may be that the crab powder cage and crab yellow shark fin soup bun is thicker.