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Oriental Network reporter Wang Weiqiu reported on October 18: Bluefish bald lungs, braised water, grass head circle... Speaking of the taste of Shanghai, I have to mention the dishes of this gang. Today, the thick oil and red sauce is still sweet, but the old taste that many "old Kelers" talk about is already rarely tasted. A few days ago, the reporter came to the Yuehucui private restaurant on Sinan Road, where he met Xu Xiuliang, the apprentice of Li Borong, the first person in Shanghai's ben gang cuisine, and also experienced the long-lost taste of this gang.
Follow the seasons to taste the "old Koehler" loves the taste of Shanghai alone
At noon, there are many diners eating in the restaurant. In the private room, Mr. Ding, 77, is studying the menu, and the "old Keler" who has a clear "head" is coming to Chef Xu Xiuliang to taste the seasonal delicacies.
"It's almost time to eat the blue fish, so I want to try Master Xu's bald lungs." Mr. Ding laughed and said that his tongue has been more picky since he was a child, and he has always remembered the taste of his childhood. He told reporters that the bald lungs of the blue fish are made from the liver of the blue fish, and such a dish can no longer be eaten in many restaurants.
Bluefish bald lungs
After a while, a pot of bald lungs with pot gas was brought to Mr. Ding. One bite down, soft and fresh, there is no fishy taste, but the aftertaste is endless. "This is still grass green, the weather is colder, with uchiha words will taste better." A few bites down let Mr. Ding relieve the hunger, he said, Master Xu can make such a taste with grass green, which shows that the cooking skills are very good.
Drunken crab
"The main reason is that the raw materials are more difficult to find and more troublesome to deal with, which has led to the slow disappearance of this famous dish." Mr. Ding introduced that the cod liver used to make the bald lungs of the blue fish must be peeled with live fish, which is also a test for the chef's fire skills.
Mr. Ding, the "old Keler", said that eating this dish should follow the seasonal "turning flower head", from the west wind to the Spring Festival, it is the season when you can eat blue fish. After the Spring Festival to April, you can eat catfish again.
There are many tricks in this gang Xu Xiuliang: We must pass on traditional things
Master Xu Xiuliang is known as Li Borong, the first person in Shanghai's cuisine, and his best is his master's famous dish - shrimp seed large black ginseng. In addition, his fried shrimp, chicken bone sauce, braised river eel, etc. are also a must, widely sought after by diners.
Master Xu Xiuliang busy in the kitchen
"This dish is actually very hardworking." Master Xu Xiuliang said that like the shrimp seed large black ginseng dish, the preliminary preparation work is very complicated. The process of foaming the hair of the big black ginseng takes a whole week, and it needs to be heated twice a day with clean water, and the water is not boiled, and the hair is soaked with residual temperature.
Michael, an international friend from Singapore, said after tasting Chef Xu Xiuliang's braised river eel that the skin of the eel is bright but not broken, and the taste is like tofu. "I don't think it's any worse than the Japanese craftsmen's eels."
Braised river eel
In fact, the roasting of this braised river eel takes a full 45 minutes, no more nor less. "From high fire to small fire to high fire, we can ensure that the fish skin is not broken." Master Xu Xiuliang told reporters that the fire skills in this gang dish and its exquisiteness, the fried shrimp he made are the best representatives.
Fried river prawns
The color is golden, the shrimp skin is sweet and crispy, and the shrimp meat is full of elasticity, which can be easily separated when put in the mouth. Xu Xiuliang said that to achieve such an effect, it is necessary to put the river prawns into the oil pot when the oil temperature is suitable, and the whole time of oil is only a few seconds, which is a great test for the chef's hand kung fu. In addition, the seasonings used in fried shrimp are simple basic spices such as rock sugar and soy sauce, which are delicious and healthier.
"I want to pass on the traditional stuff and pass on the flavor of the gang." Now 66-year-old Master Xu Xiuliang also led several small apprentices, one dish after another to conquer, using the most traditional ben gang method to retain the taste of the memories of the "old Keler". At the same time, he is also constantly innovating new dishes to suit the tastes of young people today, so that more young people can understand and fall in love with this cuisine.