Everyone has a perfume that matches her soul.
"Without jasmine, there would be no perfume!"
This old saying about perfume is actually very realistic. In the first half of the last century, about 80% of perfumes contained natural jasmine raw materials. This claim is also confirmed by an interview with Jacques Polge, who distinguished jasmine notes from other notes, making them an important part of Chanel's perfume.
For lovers of incense, jasmine is no stranger.
In the fragrance world, jasmine is named "the king of fragrance" and roses are "after fragrance".
Jasmine (Lat. Jasminum, from Persian, meaning "gift from God") is an evergreen shrub of the family Lat.Melaceae that contains about 200 varieties. Jasmine's close relatives are cloves, osmanthus flowers, olive trees, and ash trees.
Jasmine
The most important jasmine species in perfume is white jasmine, also known as Lat. Jasminum officinale.
Various varieties of white jasmine, called Lat. Jasminum officinale L.var.grandiflorum, also known as Spanish jasmine, Catalan jasmine and jasmine spices, are widely cultivated, all with the aim of obtaining extracts used in perfumes.
It takes 8 million hand-picked jasmine flowers (about 1 000 kg) to make 2.3 kg of extract, which in turn produces 1 kg of jasmine net oil.
It is estimated that 5 to 6 tons of jasmine net oil can be produced per year. Net oil produced in France costs about $15,000 per kilogram. Net oil produced in Italy, Egypt and Morocco at a slightly lower cost.
The high cost of raw materials for perfumed jasmine and the pressure of demand in various industries have forced chemists to study the aroma composition of jasmine flowers.
The key ingredient in jasmine clean oil has been known for more than 100 years. From the net oil, Germans Albert Hesse and Friedrich Mullere extracted benzyl alcohol (5%) and its esters, mainly benzyl acetate (34%) and benzyl benzoate (24%); linalool (8%), cis jasmonone (3%) and indole (2.5%), accounting for about three-quarters of the total total jasmine oil.
In the first half of the 20th century, people successively discovered p-cresol, geraniol, acacia alcohol, nerolidol and α-terpinol. However, the above-mentioned ingredients known at the time did not completely reconstruct the jasmine aroma: responsible for its peculiar characteristics "radiance" the most important part, its profound, somewhat sweet floral personality characteristics of the fragrance are still unknown.
Western jasmine was influenced by another jasmine, called:
Jasminum sambac, or Jasmine.
An important difference between jasmine pure oil extract is that indole content is lower, while acacia is higher and contains cis-hexen-3-acetate (leaf alcohol), which provides an impactful green note for the net oil, and methyl o-aminobenzoate, the presence of which allows people to associate jasmine with orange blossom and tuberose.
Small flower jasmine is a kind of green tea that is often used to make aromatic tea, called jasmine tea, and this jasmine is sung in the Chinese folk song "Jasmine".
In the folk song "Jasmine", which has been circulated all over the country and around the world, the lyrics of "A beautiful jasmine flower, fragrant and beautiful, fragrant and white people praise" vividly depict its degree of favor, and this small flower that integrates beauty and fragrance has many fans!
Jasmine is a frangipani plant of the family Rhinoceros, which is an extremely common ornamental flower in China, and its exquisite and cute appearance and fragrant aroma make it very recognizable.
In the Jin Dynasty Ji Han's "Southern Grass and Trees", it is recorded: "Yeshe Ming, the last li flower, all Hu people transplanted from the West to the South China Sea, the Southern people pity its fragrance, and compete to plant it." The Song Dynasty poet Jiang Kui even listed Jasmine as the "Flower King", which shows that the Chinese people have loved it for a long time.
Methyl dihydrojamonate (hedione)
In the second half of the 1950s, a team led by Edouard Demole received 5 kilograms of Egyptian jasmine extract for scientific research and began to study the secondary components in detail. In October 1957, the scientists named the extracted substance methyl jasmonate (which typically accounts for about 0.8% of jasmine net oil).
The team needed time to determine the exact structure of the substance, which in turn pushed for the synthesis of a simpler, more saturated methyl jasmonate derivative, which the scientists called:
Methyl dihydrojasmonate (hedione).
The discovery of methyl dihydromonate has revolutionized the landscape of the modern perfume industry. When it comes to perfumed jasmine, originally perfumers used it only in small amounts, but today its percentage in perfumes is usually double digits. Methyl dihydromonate is one of the most important raw materials, and methyl dihydromonate can also be found in nature where trace amounts are present, for example, in the aroma of tea and sweet lima orange.
In the perfume industry, Jasmine is also an indispensable member.
People usually use the solvent extraction method to obtain jasmine essential oil, but the extraction rate of jasmine essential oil is not high, and the jasmine flower is time-consuming and labor-intensive to pick, so the price of jasmine essential oil is very expensive. Its fragrance also varies, usually divided into small flower jasmine (Arabic jasmine) and large flower jasmine (Moroccan jasmine, Indian jasmine).
Small flower jasmine is the jasmine fragrance in the hearts of most Chinese people, often seen in the flower market, the flower type is more full than the large flower jasmine, looks exquisite and lovely, fragrant and elegant.
However, Westerners seem to prefer the smell of large flower jasmine, which smells more rich and deep, because its indole content is greater than that of small flower jasmine, so it sometimes presents a disturbing odor that is not accepted by some people.
Whatever kind of jasmine, it has its own magic, and its popularity in the perfume field is enough to prove it, and its importance is even comparable to that of roses: the king of fragrance!
Jasmine Nostalgia 50ml
Top note: Bluebell cloves
Heart: Lizuran Jasmine Rose hips
Aftertaste: Vetiver White Ambergris Musk
Meet in summer, jasmine blossoms...
Jasmine, combined with other small flowers, plants, and woody fragrances, gives jasmine-based perfumes a richer personality and expression.
Jasmine as a more oriental sense of incense, the fragrance is light and elegant without wavering, the fragrance is fresh like a breeze in the early morning, very suitable for hot summer days.
Notes:
This uses small flower jasmine as the main tone, the note is very gentle, the top note is just a little irritating when the skin is peeled, can be very clear seaweed breeze breath, but soon disappeared, the clove is the same, very light, and from the beginning to the end of the main position of the main seat is still jasmine, the first smell is slowly highlighted, in the back tail into the ambergris and musk of the calm, slightly can smell the grass and wood fragrance of vetiver, suzuran and jasmine two world, due to the addition of vetiver, the fragrance with a little earthy earthy breath.
The overall style, or the floral fragrance is very gentle, the valley breeze carries the earthy fragrance. Jasmine's performance here is more realistic, a good performance of the picture of the small flower jasmine growing in the oriental land, the whole note is relatively fresh, oriental elegance charm.
Pay more attention to the private me!