Chinese work is exquisite, the whole fish is on the table, it is the final dish that everyone is happy with, and its name is beautiful: there is a head and a tail, a beginning and an end. The ancients sacrificed, pigs, cattle, sheep and three animals sometimes only use a head to respond to the story, the turn of the fish, must be the whole, otherwise the ghosts and gods do not agree, the ancestors are not happy.
In the Chinese menu, there are at least 300 kinds of dishes made of fish, including golden retriever lionfish, clear soup white fish, dried roasted mandarin fish, milk fat king fish, squirrel mandarin fish, sweet and sour carp, dry roasted crucian carp, steamed anchovy, steamed grouper, vinegar pepper fish, stinky mandarin fish, pickle soup yellow fish, etc., but they are no matter how beautiful they are, it is difficult to attend the state banquet. why? Because the foreign guest shook his head when he saw the fish's head.
There are always some chefs who are skilled in itching, and there are always some chefs who are itchy, and they are good at showing off their skills, and they are always able to do it, and Chinese food culture is always gathered into a tower and armpits into a fur. In the hands of this chef, a green fish can be made into a bad fish head, braised paddle, braised belly, sweet and sour fish pieces, salt and pepper fish steak, honey smoked fish, etc., even the fish belly fish bubbles are reluctant to throw away, simmered into a bowl of soup rolls. Take a certain part of the fish into the dish, talk and laugh can also achieve delicious cuisine, in Su, Yang, Sichuan, Guangguan there are bad pond slices, three silk fish rolls, small fried fish rice, pine nut fish rice, fried raw fish shredded, five willow fish shredded, emerald dragon whisker mandarin fish, knife fish pearl ball soup, etc., are carved cockles and clams of the fine kung fu. I ate a pineapple yellow fish in Guangzhou, the chef in the fish body out of the mesh pattern, turned over into the oil pan fried into a large pineapple look, sweet and sour juice poured, crispy on the outside, crispy on the inside, foreigners see this dish on the heart of the blossom.
When I was living in the Shikumen Lane, after the Eighth Festival, the east wind warmed up, the neighbor Aunt Grandma began to get busy, and smoked fish and fish balls were also necessary for the New Year. I am a good hand at making smoked fish, often mixing marinades for neighbors, salty and sweet, with tangerine peel and plum flavor. I learned to make fish balls with my mother, but when I was a child, I saw my mother carrying a carp with a tail long to the ground, and I was both happy and afraid. The joy is that you can anoint and kiss, and the fear is to stir the fish mushroom, which is a strong work. However, once the mantle is inherited, the benefit is lifelong.
Now I have to make fish balls once a year for the Spring Festival. Buy a five-pound silver carp, cut it in two, remove the internal organs, gently scrape out the fish with a spoon, and then repeatedly beat the fish into a puree with the back of a knife. Snow white fish mushrooms are placed in a large bowl, add pure water to an appropriate amount, hold a handful of bamboo chopsticks and stir clockwise, in one go, uninterrupted. See the water is absorbed by the fish mushroom, and then add water. The ratio of fish to clean water is at least one to one, stirring until the bamboo chopsticks stand firm in the bowl. Well, add salt, onion and ginger water, rice wine, monosodium glutamate, stir vigorously for the last time, wrap in plastic wrap and put in the refrigerator for half an hour.
Sit on the stove, boil the water, pinch a ball of fish mushrooms, squeeze out a ball from the tiger's mouth, and use a spoon to scrape it with the trend, which is a fish ball the size of a pigeon's egg. As the water temperature rises, the fish circle gradually floats up, and it is necessary to fish from time to time, not to be too old. When the fish balls are all done, skim off the foam on the surface of the fish soup, blanch a few bean sprouts, re-throw the fish balls (depending on the consumption decision), salt and pepper, it is a bowl of Zhejiang clear soup fish balls. Green and white people's home, the color is elegant, fresh and silky, a sip is the dragon marrow phoenix liver, Jiangnan charm should be in this.
Since the beginning of this year, the situation of prevention and control of new crown pneumonia is still tight, the government advocates "not to go out of 'Shanghai', eat at home", it seems that I want to make more Shen's fish rounds to give to relatives and friends, to add a sense of affection to the New Year's table. With the by-product of making fish balls, I can also eat fish head powder skin soup a few times!
The meat quality and taste of blue fish, mandarin fish, and silver carp are different, but after decomposition, they can be fried in various cold pots, and the dishes I often show my hand are small fried fish rice, pine nut fish rice, sesame fish steak, chrysanthemum fish pieces, boiled fish fillets, Song Sister-in-law fish soup, etc. Last year, at the Wujiang Hotel in Suzhou, I asked Mr. Xu Hefeng, a national-level culinary master, and learned the famous Su Bang melon ginger fish shreds.
More than ten years ago, the head of the international department of the French Michelin publishing company came to Shanghai to do market research, ready to land their selection mechanism in Shanghai, through friends to find me to understand the situation, and I also took the opportunity to complete an interesting interview. Perhaps based on gastronomic experience, the two sides had a good conversation, and my French friends thought that the selection criteria for a Michelin food detective were simply tailor-made for me. For a moment, I was also a little moved, after all, it was a game of "soft knife killing", and the treatment was very tempting. Finally they offered to try my cooking skills, okay, please come. A few days later, I had a whole table of home-cooked food in the cold house, and there was a large bowl of handmade clear soup fish balls in the center of the Qingqianlong walnut eight immortals table, the taste of mother. The French friend entered three grains in a row, and he couldn't bear it, and hit the wine glass with chopsticks on the spot: Mr. Shen, it is so fixed!
Of course...... It's a Joke of Louis de Finés (the male protagonist of the French film Tiger's Mouth" (Tiger's Mouth"). (Shen Jialu)