Everyone knows that the Tang Dynasty is the most prosperous dynasty in China's history, after the demise of the Sui Dynasty, ushered in the heyday of the Tang Dynasty, economic and political development to a new peak, accepting exchanges and learning from all countries, economic, social, cultural, artistic characteristics of pluralism, openness and so on.
The development of the economy, the progress of production and textile technology, the frequent exchanges with foreign countries, etc. have promoted the unprecedented prosperity of clothing, clothing styles, colors, patterns, etc. have shown an unprecedented new situation, and women's clothing in this period can be described as the most wonderful chapter in Chinese clothing.
At that time, there were many kinds of costume images, women were mainly based on skirts, men's round necks, in front of its complete costume system and aesthetics, the Tang Dynasty got a title of "Kingdom of Clothing", and also had a certain influence on the surrounding countries at that time, especially Japan, until today Japan still uses Chinese clothing culture.
So why are the costumes of the Tang Dynasty so innovative?
During the Tang Dynasty, the four Yi Dynasty came to the dynasty, the atmosphere was open, and it was an open society, many people had a certain amount of money, so the costumes at that time were gorgeous and luxurious and open, and they paid great attention to the collocation of colors, the early Tang Dynasty was light and elegant, the middle hall was gorgeous, and the late Tang Dynasty was dim.
Tang Dynasty women not only like this bright color, but also like to add some gold thread or color embroidery as decoration on the costume, and the style is also constantly evolving, such as the costumes in the "Legend of Wu Mei Niang", gorgeous and bold, the neckline is very low, this style was only worn by concubines or kabuki in the Tang Dynasty, but with the continuous evolution of the dynasty, this style has gradually spread among the commoners.
And we can see in the excavated Tang Dynasty pottery figurines and Dunhuang Mogao Grottoes, the Tang Dynasty costumes presented inside are very unrestrained, colorful, and beautiful.
Moreover, most of the costumes in the murals are streamlined, and the light long skirts are matched with shawls made of feather yarn, which makes the flying costumes present an illusion of misplaced time and space.
Another example is the Tang Dynasty's "Picture of the Lady of the Hairpin Flower", which depicts the most daring dress at that time, and there has never been such a bold style since then.
The foreign exchanges of the Tang Dynasty at that time were very rapid, and under the influence of the nomadic peoples of the time, the atmosphere of women wearing men's clothes gradually emerged.
In the New Book of Tang and the Five Elements Chronicle, it is recorded: "Emperor Gaozong tasted the inner feast, the Princess Taiping wore a purple shirt and jade belt, the soap luo folded the scarf, and the seven things were mixed, and the song and dance were performed before the emperor." The emperor and the queen laughed and said, "A woman must not be a military attaché, so why dress for this?" ”
From here, it can be seen that there is already a clear tendency for women to wear men's clothing.
And under the influence of Hufu, this form of belt also gradually appeared, when the popular "belt", this belt was most popular in the Tang Dynasty, and later used until the Northern Song Dynasty, to the middle and late Tang Dynasty, women's cuffs became wider and wider, and the size was often more than four feet below.
According to the Old Book of Tang . The Chronicle of Public Opinion records: "His regular clothes, red and yellow robes, folded turbans, nine-ring belts, and six-in-one boots, all started from Wei and Zhou, which were convenient for rongshi." Since the Zhenguan, non-yuan days, winter solstices, and high priests have often obeyed themselves. "At first, it was only a yellow robe, and then it was gradually changed to red yellow, and later the red yellow became the special color of the emperor's clothing, and later An Lushan was called emperor, and he also wore a red and yellow shirt."
In the late Tang Dynasty, due to social turmoil and constant wars, the aesthetic returned to the thin and thin, and there was no longer a grand scene of the Tang Dynasty.
How much influence did Tang Dynasty costume culture have on overseas?
Tang Dynasty costume decoration part of the overseas influence is quite deep, especially Japan, the Tang Dynasty style is open, foreign exchanges are strengthened, Japan borrows the style of Tang Dynasty costumes, changes the traditional single cloth, decorates some patterns on clothes, the pattern inside inherits the curved beauty of the Tang Dynasty period, birds, fish, animals and other looks, fully drawing on the Tang Dynasty's pattern prototype, taking its auspicious and rich, family harmony.
At that time, Japanese women's clothing has always followed the style of the Tang Dynasty, if you look closely, you can find a lot of birds and phoenixes and other styles, and even today, through the Japanese kimono, you can still faintly see the cultural shadow of Tang Dynasty costumes.
In ancient times for a long time, the Japanese are deeply covered by Chinese culture, it can be said that every Japanese has a "Chang'an Dream", and Japan has a characteristic, who is strong with whom to play, under the influence of the increasingly powerful Tang Dynasty and culture, Japan decided to thoroughly learn China, comprehensive "Tang Dynasty", from the costume, legal system, land system, national education, language and literature and other aspects of comprehensive reference.
Moreover, the poet most admired by Japan at that time was Bai Juyi, praising him as "the great poet Mr. Bai Juyi, you are the benefactor of Japanese culture, you are a literary artist respected by the whole country in Japan, and your contribution to Japan is as heavy as a mountain, and it will never be forgotten by my generations." ”
Whether it is Chinese festivals or tea drinks, etc., japan all learn from it, planning to create a pirated "Datang", even popular music has learned all, but the only thing they have not learned is the eunuch.
In fact, the traditional culture that Japan is now showing, there is no shadow of the Tang Dynasty, the Song Dynasty is much more than the remnants of the Tang Dynasty, the Tang and Song Dynasties are mixed, and the Song Dynasty is mostly, taking the spiritual capital of Japan, Kyoto as an example, it retains a lot of the shadow of the Song Dynasty, such as the dry landscape garden before the formation, that is, after the Chinese Song Dynasty garden spread to Japan, and Most of the Song Dynasty in Kyoto is still related to the Song Dynasty compared to the Tang Dynasty.
In the Nara period, the costume basically inherited the tradition of the tang dynasty's wide robe and large sleeves, changed the "closed collar", appeared "collar", and did not wear underwear, which to a certain extent expressed the tang dynasty's wide and open cultural atmosphere, and also increased a certain degree of beauty.
Costume culture is an important part of each nation, directly reflecting the economic conditions and national culture of the society at that time, under the continuous exchanges, the costumes of the two countries also have certain commonalities and characteristics, he is both the crystallization of material civilization and a certain spiritual civilization.
From the primitive era to the current new civilization era, people have already precipitated all their living customs, aesthetics, religions, colors and hobbies in clothing, which also constitutes the connotation of a certain spiritual civilization of clothing culture and creates a precedent for the costume culture of the Chinese nation.
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