1. Promotion to guandu
If you want to talk about the new year's taste in the hearts of Wuhan people, it is probably indispensable to cured bacon and bacon, sausages, fried round fish pieces... The fish represents "more than one year", and the round son is "reunion and round", which is delicious and auspicious.
Compared with the Huangpi Yuanzi, which has been hyped to the heat in recent years, Hanyang Shengguandu also has treasure yuanzi, which is restrained and low-key.
According to the data, in the past, the ancient Hanyang terrain was low-lying, the lake and river network intersected many times, and the traffic was mainly waterways, and the Shengguan Ferry was the throat road from the south to Wuhan. Today, Shengguandu has encountered many changes, with elevated crossings and buildings, and the urban villages of that year have disappeared without a trace. But some are still holding out, the most famous of which is Huazhen Restaurant.
The taste of the year is getting heavier, the renovated Huazhen Restaurant, two large bamboo baskets are placed in the large bungalow, one basket is meat balls, the other basket is crispy fish, and the customers who come to buy are endless.
"Everything is round, a chop of crispy fish, under the clear soup noodles, Yangchun noodles, it is really delicious." Teacher Yuan strongly recommended this way of eating to us.
2.55 years of craftsmanship
"I started making dumplings when I was 14 years old, and I studied with my master for 14 years before he taught him this craft and recipe." Mr. Yuan Dehua, a 69-year-old teacher at Huazhen Restaurant, said, "Doing this line of work, you can't learn it." ”
The apprentice should be conscientious and responsible, abide by the rules, and with some more cleverness, the master will be able to teach the formula, after all, this is the master's housekeeping skill. In "A Generation of Grandmasters", Ma San did not understand the true meaning of the "old ape hanging seal" in "turning back", and was hidden by the bottom of the palace second leaf to be soft kegang, which is also the reason.
In the 1970s, Yuan Dehua made meat balls and fish balls in a corporate canteen in Wansongyuan, and nearby cadres and leaders would come to buy them and have a high evaluation.
In 1995, Huazhen Restaurant opened. Huazhen's teacher Fu Yuan said, "My name is Hua, and my mother-in-law's name is Zhen, so my name is Huazhen." ”
From 1995 to 2008, Huazhen Restaurant was very brilliant, the store was full in the morning and evening, focusing on the "three major pots", which were chicken hot pot, fish stewed lotus and three fresh hot pots. However, the most famous is the three fresh hot pots, which contain round balls and crispy fish. After 2008, Huazhen Restaurant changed direction and began to specialize in round seeds, crispy fish and so on.
Yuan Dengyong remembered that when he was a child, the meat balls in shengguandu were called "lion heads", and now they are generally called "round sons". Many round children will climb the promotion of guandu. "There are tens of millions of families in Wuhan that make rounds, Huangpi has rounds, and Zhuankou also has rounds, but when you are promoted to a higher level, you only recognize Huazhen Yuanzi." The Yuanzi of Shengguandu was actually the first to be done by Emperor Mengzong of the Yuan clan. "Other people saw it and started to follow suit, but the taste was different." Teacher Yuan even joked, "For this product, I can go to the customer's house to get it." ”
Yuanzi is made all year round, but there is a slight difference between spring, summer, autumn and winter, in that the air humidity, sunny and cloudy days, and temperature are different, which is Huazhen's own secret recipe. But some things can be seen and touched.
Teacher Yuan is a "grumpy" personality, and he is very particular about making rounds, "The raw materials are not good, then simply do not do it, rather than scrap the materials." For the selection of materials, Yuan Dengyong, the son of Teacher Fu Yuan, said, "Do not eat fish that eat refined feed, want grass-fed fish, fish are green scales, and large stomachs are not, generally 5-7 pounds is the best." ”
Yuan Dengyong said, "How much meat is needed is supplied by several fixed-point manufacturers, and after a knife is changed, it is sent." After I check it, I reprocess it. The demand is fresh meat, even "hot". With the change of people's tastes, now Huazhen Yuanzi tries to choose leaner meat, "so as not to be fried and a body". Meat dumplings should also be given an appropriate amount of fish, that is, the fish mushrooms are added to the meat and stirred, and then processed. It takes 15 minutes from squeezing the balls out of the pan to frying them.
Huazhen's crispy fish is famous for its mellow meat, tender meat, crisp taste, unique aroma, less thorns and more meat, and nutrition and health. Its classic way to eat is crispy fish dumpling hot pot, which can also be fried, sweet and sour, dried sautéed, spicy fish nuggets and so on.
It is worth mentioning that his family fried food, fried every day with fresh oil. "As soon as the oil is black, you have to change the oil immediately." At the scene of Huazhen fried crispy fish, a huge oil pot, the hot oil rolling inside, put the fish pieces wrapped in batter into it, and as the minutes and seconds passed, the crispy fish began to swim like small fish in the oil pot, and there was a kind of amazing glimpse of the artistic atmosphere.
In Huazhen, fish balls are only made when it is cold, because the fish balls are more fresh at this time. "If you think about it on the three volt days of June, the water-heavy fish balls are easy to deteriorate, and when you go back to boiling, you will know that you have lost it." Teacher Yuan said that recently, people have asked if there are fish balls every day, but he does not sell them, "When there is a little snow, I will start to make fish balls, and when it comes to the Spring Festival, I will make them violently." ”
To make fish balls, you must choose the fat head fish with brain shells, fresh and fresh, can not exceed 8 pounds, otherwise the grease is too heavy, generally 6-8 pounds, 5 pounds or so is the best.
Many people still choose Huazhen after eating other meat round fish balls. Not only is the solid taste, but also in the life of Mr. Yuan, he sometimes serves his own vegetable garden, sometimes in the cooking with the apprentices to kill fish and make fish balls, guests like to talk with the semi-retired Yuan Teacher Fu about home, those cloud smoke past, celebrity visits, the taste of ingenuity, Mr. Yuan is still clearly remembered.
3 Passing on the torch
After 55 years of making rounds, almost devoting his whole life to delicious food, everyone is very "convinced" of Teacher Yuan's personality.
Teacher Yuan's daughter recalled, "My father suffered from snacks, especially with the spirit of specialization, and really made the dumplings pure fire. Sometimes when he encountered a defect in the outer skin or inside, he constantly tried to find ways to experiment, preferring to study without sleeping. This old man is a bit stubborn, about 10 years old to become an apprentice, the master does not teach the craft, had to follow the 20s to teach a little fur. Later, I opened my own restaurant to study and study, for example, the dumplings are changing the recipe according to the season and ingredients, and it is difficult to have a fixed ..."
Between the words, the daughter is full of admiration for her father, "In this life, the most admired thing in my heart is my father, who is the hard-working, honest duty, and influences our family." ”
Today, Teacher Yuan is still in charge of the pass, but most of it is presided over by his son Yuan Dengyong, who is humble, "I now have a seventy percent craft."
Many customers think that the freshly fried rounds are good, but Yuan Dengyong thinks that the cold is better. "Freshly fried dumplings can be tasted, but it is recommended to buy cold ones." This can be placed in the freezer for cryopreservation, which can be stored for two months without spoiling. ”
How to eat after freezing? "Take the dumplings out of the freezer, put water in the pot, remember to give cold water, never hot water." Put the frozen rounds inside to thaw. After the water boils, if you feel that it is not enough to soak, you can cook more. ”
4 Never compromise
At present, near the New Year, Huazhen's New Year goods varieties are more, and the New Year goods on the menu are basically available, such as dumplings, crispy fish, and various marinade dishes (such as marinated beef, marinated beef tendon meat, tripe, mouth stripe, downwind, lotus clip). However, the most popular are the dumplings and crispy fish.
Hua Zhen's meat balls, 40 yuan a catty. Crispy fish, that is, fried fish pieces, 30 yuan a catty.
"After the first month, we will also push the fish balls, and the daily limit is 200 servings." This is the most special supply of Huazhen Restaurant. Yuan Dengyong said.
At the end of the year, Huazhen opened the round balls on time at 8 o'clock every day. Teacher Yuan said, "At most, I have done 6,000 pounds a day, and it takes 50 people to be busy." Four pots, more than a dozen people to change shifts, the day is too cold, the hands are swollen badly. ”
Many people suggested replacing labor with machines, but Yuan Andyhua vetoed it. "It's fast to use the machine, but the machine stirs fiercely and eats like wood slag." If the taste is not right, it is deceiving the customer. ”
"Fifty years ago, a couple of guys fried dumplings, made a small pot, made a jar, and ate that earthy taste. I can achieve that taste in my house, or restore the taste of that time. ”
"In those years, every house blew up the balls, and now there are not many." Many old people in their fifties, sixties, and seventies have eaten our family, as if they have found the taste of dumplings they ate when they were children. Teacher Yuan said that he had been apprenticed for 14 years, and the master had only passed on this craft to him, and after the inheritance of the master and apprentice, the current round son could not be improved. By implication, this is the best state.
Therefore, netizens affirmed Huazhen Yuanzi from the bottom of their hearts, "Huazhen's Yuanzi is definitely the first place in Wuhan City, and Wuhan is the second place in Doing Rounds." People who don't like to eat dumplings like to eat the balls in his house. Huazhen balls of ginger and onion flavor is very fragrant, the balls after high temperature frying, after cold ginger onion flavor is still fragrant, this is the level (this is not more put onion ginger water or onion ginger on the line), what other meat and fish ratio, how much corn starch eggs, how much water, these are not high-tech, the focus is not to eat greasy, ginger shallot flavor. ”
In winter, I recommend you to order a pot of Huazhen's three fresh hot pots: Huazhen round seeds and crispy fish are perfectly combined, there are fish and meat, rich in nutrition, and long aftertaste. This large pot, there are six to eight large rounds, two large pieces of crispy fish, the price is only 70 yuan! Enough for three or four people to eat! If there are many people, you can order a large portion, the price is 80 yuan! Of course, the best way is to take it home and eat it any way you want!
Author: Shu Huai
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