"Five steps and one tea house, ten steps and one restaurant" is a major feature of food in Guangzhou.
Since the end of the Qing Dynasty, Guangzhou has been a treaty port, and restaurants and eating styles from all over the world have gathered here. "Fan Restaurant" appeared in Guangzhou as early as the mid-to-late 19th century, and in the 1930s, Western food entered a period of great development in Guangzhou, whether it was a Western restaurant opened by foreigners in Shamian or a Western restaurant in a hotel, even if the price was high, people also patronized to taste it. However, the entry of Western food did not affect the development of Chinese food, especially in Guangdong, Cantonese cuisine gradually absorbed recipes from all over the world, innovative dishes and novel management, which opened up the prosperity and development of Cantonese restaurants and began to be famous overseas. For people of that era, western food was a wonderful experience to enrich the taste buds.
It is recorded in the "Humanistic Guangzhou Series" that during the years of Qing Xianfeng and Tongzhi, "Yiliguan" and "Erliguan" appeared in Guangzhou. "Yiliguan" is a simple tea house on the side of the road, "Erliguan" is a shop with bungalows, wooden benches, serving pastries, and the tea price is 2% (72% per corner), which is a resting place for the peddlers.
Later, the tea house that was more exquisite than the Erli Pavilion appeared, and in the late Qing Dynasty, the magnificent and decent tea house rose in Guangzhou, and the first decent tea house "Sanyuan Lou" was set up in the thirteen lines during the Guangxu period, and the tea houses such as Tao Taoju, Lu Yuju, and Yixiangju also appeared one after another, and "one cup and two pieces" has been popular ever since then...
Datong Restaurant Advertisement, the Datong Restaurant building in the advertisement is a common Art Deco style in Guangzhou in the 1930s
When I visited the Guangdong Provincial Museum before, I saw a batch of old menus, which exuded the old menu of historical old fragrance, recording the traditional dishes that were famous in Yangcheng that day.
At the beginning of the 20th century, Lu Yuju pioneered the "Weekly Beauty Point", changing new tricks every week, paying attention to all kinds of colors, salty and sweet, and was very popular. At this point, refreshments have become the top priority of the tea house, and everyone has followed suit, striving to be full of color and fragrance.
In the 1930s, Lu Yuju Tea House on the border of Taiping South and Yide Road in Guangzhou
Lu Yuju restaurant menu
In this Menu of Lu Yu Ju Restaurant, there are some dishes that read to starve individuals but do not know what they are, such as crab-stuffed ladder, jade willow chicken horn, and sparrow pine powder fruit. I have only heard of crab stuffed orange, I have not heard of crab stuffed ladder, as for what these three dishes are, you can talk about it.
There are also these who drool just by looking at the name, smoked hooves, leek yellow shrimp box, osmanthus duck, hawthorn milk skin roll, hometown oil duck, fragrant fat chicken, Fenjiu beef...
In January this year, the Guangdong Provincial Museum and the China Hotel recreated the century-old "Disappearing Famous Dishes". It is mentioned that "four cold meat" is the traditional dish of cantonese feast in the Republic of China period, before serving hot dishes, the restaurant will first serve two dim sums for diners to pad their stomachs, and two meat dishes can be used as appetizers, the two dim sums of this reproduction are "chicken shredded peel" and "thousand layers of sea bass pieces"; and the two meat dishes are "roasted gold and silver spoons" and "fenjiu beef".
Image source Dianping.com, the lower right corner is Fenjiu beef
There is a dish in the menu "smoked taste of the hoof", in the query data found that Foshan has a century-old famous dish "Foshan za hoof", I think it is the same thing. There are two forms of hoofing, one is made of whole pig hand, and the other is more complicated, which is to use pig's foot to open the skin, remove the tendons and bones, and then wrap the lean meat of the pig with pig fat and wrap it in the skin of the pig's foot. Because the latter is made by using water weeds, it is called "tie hooves".
This is a menu from a Restaurant in South China that introduces several of the dishes mentioned in the menu.
The original cup of tangerine peel duck is a dish derived from the boiled red duck. Boiled red duck, is a semi-finished product, the preparation method is complex, and the condiments are diverse. The duck is first slaughtered, fried and then cooked. When simmered, season with tangerine peel, star anise, ginger, green onion, rice wine, soy sauce and salt, etc., the flavor is strong. With it as the base with different ingredients and cooking methods, dozens of famous dishes can be made, so connoisseurs call it the Town Mountain Treasure of Cantonese cuisine, commonly known as "Red Duck Bottom". It is made into a "tangerine peel duck", its color is brownish red, its texture is tender and smooth, and its taste is sweet.
Tangerine duck, image source network
Ann shrimp white cake. Cantonese-style tea houses, from five-star hotels to street food stalls, have turnip cakes for sale. In the spring, every household will make radish cake, steaming cage by cage. The ingredients are shrimp, dachshund, shiitake mushrooms, chives, radishes, etc., and the production process is also very delicate. Guangzhou people not only use it to entertain guests, but also use it as a gift.
Image source network
Crab meat with shrimp dumplings. Shrimp dumplings are a special snack in Guangdong, which was founded in the early 20th century as a small family-style tea house in Wufeng Township, a suburb of Guangzhou, and has a history of 100 years. The traditional shrimp dumplings are half-moon shaped, the spider belly has a total of twelve folds, and the filling has shrimp, meat, and bamboo shoots.
Cloud-legged bancake. Ban Ji, a Cantonese transliteration of pancake, has been greatly different from the original pancake after improvement, becoming a "Sinicized" dessert. In addition to the common fruit filling now, the combination with cloud legs can be described as a combination of Chinese and Western, which belongs to the innovative dishes of the Republic of China period.
The Paris apricot pastry, also known as the "King's Pie", is a round cake that the French eat around the time of the Catholic Feast of Manifestation on January 6 every year, made of mille-feuille puff pastry and almond cream inverted.
Puff pastry egg tarts. Egg tarts are classified by tart skins, mainly divided into butter tarts and puff pastry tarts. The puff pastry tart is a thin layer of puff pastry, similar to the butter puff pastry of the West point, but because of the use of lard, the taste is rougher than the butter puff pastry, and because the tart is thicker, the filling of the puff pastry tart is less than the butter egg tart.
This weilan seafood wok gas restaurant fat chicken advertisement is to highlight.
Let's take a look at what the advertisement says:
"Eight thousand fat chickens thank you for the notice
The anniversary of our shop is warmly received from all walks of life. thank
The owner of the shop has always used high-quality materials for thin profitism, and in response to the presidential thrift movement, he continued to reduce prices and preferential treatment to serve the society.
Weilan fat chicken, each two yuan hexagon, half a yuan four corners, unlimited supply throughout the day. ”
After reading this advertising list, do you have the desire to buy one and go home?
The following is the menu of Tao Tao Ju Grand Restaurant. Beijing's first Tao Tao Ju has just recently opened, can you see if these dishes on the menu are still there?
Before going to Guangzhou, I chose Tao Taoju for the first dinner. Roast goose is really good, but it is also a bit of a pity not to be able to taste the iced pineapple old meat.
I recognized these on the menu: Southern Milk Button Meat, Fortune Meatballs, Raw Fried Pork Ribs, Suckling Pig Chicken, Tangerine Peel Stewed Duck, Duck Bucket Chicken Shredded, Fried Hibiscus Shrimp, and a guess is red stewed seafood, I don't know if it's right.
Red stewed seafood was not found, but red stewed sea cucumber was found, which is also a traditional Cantonese dish. Simmer the haired sea cucumber, mushrooms, broth, and oyster sauce over low heat until tender and smooth.
This dish x fried finches, has not been able to confirm. At first, I guessed that it was the word "ginger", and then I found a chef friend, who had work experience in the morning tea shop, thinking that it was a "far" word, the dish was far from the Cantonese transliteration, which was actually soft, which was to describe the head and tail of the dish, keeping the most tender part in the middle, "cai yuan" does not refer to a single dish, it can be a cabbage heart, kale, etc. So the chef friend thinks that this dish is "fried chicken slices with vegetable hearts".
Moreover, on a menu of lu yuju restaurants' regular feasts, it seems that the "vegetable far phoenix dried finch slices" is found as evidence.
However, I also have doubts, because there is a "night flower lily chicken liver fried sparrow slice" in the replica dish of the China World Hotel, will it be this dish on the Tao Tao Ju menu?
What is it, but also welcome all netizens to discuss hotly Ha.
Night flower lily chicken liver fried sparrow slices, is also one of the restored dishes, picture source network
This Phu Chong Pavilion pie list. Is it dazzling that so many cakes on the list are not: red aya crisp, white aya crisp, goose oil crisp, cake flatbread, meat flatbread, dragon and phoenix meat cake...
Regarding Aya crisp, I specifically checked the information, and it is said that it is the most common dowry cake for wedding banquets in Guangdong. In the past, the marriage of the rich showed decency and style with the richness of the cake, and the silk satin of Ayara was one of the four luxurious fabrics of the nobility, of which "Aya" was the most expensive. Therefore, the gift cake is the first choice of "Aya crisp", which means glory.
"Aya" has yellow, white, red, orange four colors: yellow aya with bean paste as the filling, white aya with refreshing sugar or five kernels as the filling, red aya is the most exquisite and most expensive, with lotus paste as the filling, there are also winter paste, orange Aya has bean paste or coconut shredded as the filling.
There is also a "chicken cake" on the list, mentioned above to restore the disappearance of Guangfu famous dishes, they also restored a lot of famous points, including a "gold and silver chicken cake". At first glance, it is an ordinary chicken cake, the actual process is varied, the method is complicated, and the same cake has two colors and tastes. First bake the bottom cake into a Japanese-shaped mold, add a layer of bean paste in the middle to increase the taste, and then add cake liquid and egg yolk crushed to ensure the taste of the upper and lower layers, and steam it out of the pot. The steaming time should be accurate to the second.
The "goose oil puff pastry" on the list is a traditional cake spot in Deqing County, Zhaoqing City, Guangdong Province. In the Qing "History of Ru Lin", it is mentioned that goose oil crisp: pass the cup to change the cup, eat until the afternoon, Du Shenqing called for dim sum, that is, lard dumpling bait, duck meat bun roasted, goose oil crisp, soft cake, each plate to take up.
Regarding the dragon and phoenix pies and cake pies on the list, who knows can tell us about them?
This is an advertisement for candy melon seeds of Huayang Company.
During the Republic of China period, with the introduction of Western-style catering culture, the import volume of Western food raw materials and food increased greatly, and food wholesalers also engaged in Chinese and Western goods to meet people's various purchase needs.
Delicious truth-seeking recipes
"Delicious Truth Seeking" is a recipe that was widely circulated in Guangzhou and surrounding areas in the late Qing Dynasty and early Minchu. It is the first cantonese cookbook written by a Guangzhou literati and gourmet in the Qing Dynasty out of love for food, after eating all over the restaurants and restaurants in Guangzhou, which contains 180 kinds of Cantonese cuisine, but the traditional methods of more than 80 kinds of Cantonese cuisine have been lost. It can be said that this recipe is a record and testimony of the heyday of Cantonese cuisine.
Ma Zhi Kitchen Book is a book that introduces the practice of Western pastry.
The cover of this Tang zi chinese cuisine book is written in black characters, and there are a total of 500 dishes in the book, and Gao Ming is specially asked to translate it into a book to send to the Chinese chef.
In this Chinese Tea Room Beauty Point Journal, it can be seen that the price of each dim sum is "milli", such as two millimeters of braised chicken rice, one millimeter of radish shortbread, half a millimeter of fresh lotus essence cake, half a millimeter of rose lotus rolls, and half a millimeter of chanterelle fin cake.
In addition to this menu, there is also this price list of the two benefits of oyster sauce spicy products factory, many of which are based on the unit of "milli".
From 1912 to 1935, the most widely circulated currency in Guangzhou was not the ocean, but the ocean. According to the exchange standards in Guangzhou in October 1933, 100 yuan of the ocean can be exchanged for 128 yuan of the ocean. Milli Yang is a silver coin minted by the Guangdong Mint at the end of the Qing Dynasty, cantonese "one milli" is "one dime" meaning, so the two corners, one dime, five-point denomination of small silver coins as "two milli, one milli, half a milli".
In September 1934, the Economic Survey Office of the Law School of Sun Yat-sen University published the book "Research on the Families of Workers in Guangzhou", which recorded the monthly salary of workers in Guangzhou in 1933, most of the family income was 15-50 yuan, and the most expensive in the price list was the original pond fresh oyster sauce, which cost three yuan and two yuan, which was really not cheap.