"Han Feizi Five Beetles": "The people eat fruit clams, fishy and foul smell and hurt the stomach, and the people have many diseases." There are saints who do, drill and burn fire to make fishy, and the people say it, so that the king of the world, the trumpet of the flint. "In the ancient times, the tools were relatively primitive, most of the seafood that people could eat were clams that were easy to pick up, and several Neolithic cultural sites found in the Jiaodong area had found shell mounds and clam piles, indicating that we have been eating clams for tens of thousands of years." But for how the clams came from, what kinds of clams, the ancients have not been clear. "Shuowen Jiezi Worm Department": "Clams, mirages." There are three, all born in the sea. Chitose turned into a clam, and Qin said that it was a fierce one. And the clouds are transformed by the hundred-year-old swallow. Clam, a tired, old-fashioned wing. "The concept here is confusing and needs to be carefully sorted out. "Ritual Book of the Moon Order": "The moon finches of the autumn season enter the water as clams." "I Ching Tong Gua Test": "Li Dong Swallow Finches enter the water as clams." "In the eyes of the ancients, in the autumn and winter, many birds and finches are gone, and at that time, they did not know the migratory birds, and the ancients wondered where these birds and finches went? Maybe it turns into a clam in the water. "Chinese Jin Yu 9": "The finches enter the sea as clams, and the pheasants enter the Huai as mirages." "Chinese Note": "Small clams, big mirages." "The little finches turn into clams, the big birds turn into mirages, and the mirage is the big clams." Mirage is a natural phenomenon formed in the atmosphere due to the refraction of light, you can see the image of objects in the air, there are city pavilions, there are characters and cars and horses, summer mostly occurs on the seashore, Penglai Pavilion is famous for mirages, Huangxian sea area has also had mirages, the ancients mistakenly believed that this is a mirage exhaled, so it is called mirage. Xu Shen believes that the Chitose finches turn into clams, the centenary swallows into oysters, the old clothes wings are old bats, and the water becomes a clam - which is what we call today. The clams in the Shuowen include three species: clams, oysters, and cockles, which are quite different from the classification system of modern biology.
In the Qing Dynasty, Hao Yixing's "Clam" article of "Remembering the Sea Mistake" said: "The genus of the clam, the so-called "Gongye" of the Shuowen. The shell is round and thick, with a whirlwind, such as a finger text, and a large one like a wine glass, which is blue and white; its kind also has a fiber like a finger top, yellow and white essay, and the shell is thin and light, which is the genus of the clam, not this. Clams A clam, the meat is very beautiful, hot wine is brewed, the flavor is particularly good. Song Luling Wang Yizhen Che Che Under the Wine ("Song Shu Liu Zhan Biography": '臑酒螯螯'), Zhen Can know. The Daguan Materia Medica says that the chelch is a large clam, a mirage, that is, this is also. There are small crabs in the abdomen, claws and feet, shaped like elm pods, is the essence of clams, clams in the shell, can not be eaten, when it is hungry, crabs come out to feed for clams, crabs are full of clams. In the morning and at dusk, there is meat like silk tied to it, or suddenly affected by wind and waves, the silk crab is stiff, the clam is a servant, Guo Pu's "Jiang Fu" so-called crab belly crab, immediately refers to this. And the clam is not a clam, afraid of the same kind of synonymous ears. The Northern Qi Shu Xu Zhicai Biography: "Some people suffer from heel swelling and pain, and the doctors cannot recognize it, and the talent is known: "Clam spirit disease, from the boat into the sea hanging feet into the water." The sick man said, "It was so." "It is only two clams that are as big as elm pods." Even if it is a thing, it is called a spirit, and the perception exists. As for the Clam's Lun, there are no crabs in the belly. The article lists four kinds of oysters, clams, car claws, and clams, which are still confusing. The second half of the "clam essence" section, it is quite a kind of note novel, people who have eaten seafood know that there will be a small bean crab in some shellfish shells, shellfish and bean crabs are the same as the relationship between jellyfish and some shrimp, the ancients called "scorpion belly crab, jellyfish shrimp", which is called symbiotic relationship in biology, and the elves have nothing to do with it, and it is curious how Xu Zhicai can cut out the clam essence from the heel of the person, change the trick? According to expert research, before the Tang and Song dynasties, the "clam" in Hao Wen was a general term for clams in a broad sense, including most clam creatures including Wen clams, flower clams and Xi Shi tongue; in a narrow sense, it specifically refers to a certain clam to distinguish it from Wen clams and Xi Shi tongue. Since the Tang and Song dynasties, the meaning of clams has gradually narrowed, mostly referring to clams of the clam family. Hao Wenzhong juxtaposes clams with Wen clams, apparently in a narrow sense.
White clams
The narrow sense of the clam said by the ancients is mostly described as a white shell purple lip, the shell is white, the abdominal edge has a circle of black purple edges, according to this form, it should be a four-corner clam, also known as "white clam" and "white clam", is the ancients most valued a kind of sea clam, "Aquatic History" said that Shandong Yangjiaogou and Yantai are abundant, but the Huangxian sea seems to rarely see this shellfish.
The Modern Chinese Dictionary explains "clams": clams, clams and other bivalve mollusks. Release "clams" :(1) mollusks, about 3 cm long, with an oval shell, light brown, purple edges. It lives on the shallow seabed. (2) The common name of the clam. The "clam" here is basically taken in its narrow sense, and the meaning of "clam" is slightly broader. In the Huangxian dialect, the content of "clams" is further enriched, and the four-horned clams of the clam family, the Chinese clams (that is, the "yellow clams" in the Huangxian dialect), the Wen clams of the curtain clam family, the Japanese mirror clams, the Philippine clams (that is, the "flower clams" in the Huangxian dialect), the "sea melon seeds" (scientific name of the cherry clam family) (scientific name is rainbow bright cherry clams), and so on, can be called "clams". And not only refers to a wider range, the pronunciation is not the same, "clam" Mandarin reads "gé", "clam" and "clam" are pronounced in this way, in Huangxian dialect, clams are pronounced as "gá" (Huangxian dialect replaces the vowel "e" in Mandarin with "a" is not an isolated phenomenon, such as "drink", Huangxian dialect is pronounced "há", we often write "ha" in pronunciation; such as "cut", Huangxian dialect is pronounced "gá", "cut wheat", "cut meat", "hand cuter" are read like this; such as "佮", Mandarin reads "gé"; Huangxian dialect is pronounced as "gá", "easy to buy and sell, difficult to do with guys", "neighbors and neighbors" are all read like this. In Huangxian dialect, the friendship between men and women is also called "Yu Hu'er", for example: he has several Yu Hu'er. Others like "Kudzu", "Bump", "Blind" are all the same). In The Huangxian dialect, the meaning of "clam" is "clam", where "snail" gently rhymes, "uo" is pronounced as "ou", "wave snail", "ear" and "whip" are all read as such. The clam snails mentioned by the Huangxian people include most of the shellfish in the bivalves family except for the mussel family, scallop family, oyster family, and bamboo clam family (these families have special names), that is, in addition to the species contained in the clams above, the seawater family and cockle family can also be called clam snails (such as the cockle family's hairy cockle Yellow County dialect is called "hair clam"), and even the clam family and pearl clam family in freshwater can be called clam snails. I remember that one year there was a big drought, the Nanxingjia Reservoir saw the bottom, I ran to step on sixty or seventy river mussels with my feet, to see if there were any pearls in it. At that time, there was nothing to hold, so I had to take off my pants and tie my pants legs, and the river mussels with a pair of pants were carried home, and the villagers were puzzled: "What do you do when you catch these big clams?" "I was busy for half an afternoon, and I realized that their doubts were justified, that this thing really couldn't be done, needless to say that people ate it, and even the chickens and ducks at home were not interested in it."
Dorsal horn toothless mussels
Later, it was learned that the big clam snail was called the dorsal horn toothless mussel, and if there was no artificial nucleus, it was very rare to produce pearls, even if the quality was inferior.
The "clams" that The people of Huangxian county call "clams", including Chinese clams (also known as "yellow clams" and "yellow clams"), Filipino clams (also known as "flower clams"),and rainbow bright cherry clams (huangxian people call them "small flower clams", and in some places call them "plum clams" and "sea melon seeds"), all belong to the category of clam snails, which I have talked about in another article and will not be repeated here.
Yellow clams
Flower clams
Rainbow bright cherry clams
There are also several kinds of clam snails in the waters of Huangxian County, which is worth mentioning.
clam
Clam oil
One is the Wen clam, which belongs to the bivalve clam clam family shellfish, the shell back edge is triangular, the abdominal edge is round, the shell is thick, the surface is expanded, smooth, and the outer layer is a layer of glossy and oily yellow-brown shell skin, the cloth has a pattern, in Huangxian dialect looks "meat grandma", the top markings are often jagged, so the Huangxian dialect is called "flower skin", the wave vein (that is, several beaches near the shore, the sea rises to this wave, the Huangxian dialect is called "wave vein") more, there is no deep water. Wen clam stew soup is the freshest, known as "the world's freshest", for the clams in the top quality, in addition to stew soup, Wen clam steamed eggs is also a famous dish. The shell of the clam can be used as a handicraft, and people of the upper age remember that in the sixties and seventies of the last century, Shanghai produced a "clam oil", that is, the hand towel oil was packed in the shell of the clam, this idea is simply amazing, we all bring our own clam oil to school, compare the size of the clam shell to each other, to see whose pattern is more beautiful.
There is a kind of Japanese mirror clam that belongs to the same family as the clam, and there are a small number of productions in the waters of Huangxian County, and the shells are nearly round, such as bull's eye, so it is also called "bull's eye clam".
Japanese mirror clams
The shell is thick and slightly flat, and once I went down to the sea to swim and touched one, standing in the fine sand, and it was like touching a small round mirror that a girl had brought with me in the past. The shell surface is white, the growth pattern is wide and thick, there is no radiating ribs, and the inner surface of the shell after opening is a lustrous white like mutton fat jade, which is particularly beautiful.
"Cockle" from the insect from the gan, for the shape of the sound and the meaning of the word, in the ancient concept, "all things are insects", clam snail genus (external with a shell) insect. "Gan" is also a sound symbol and an meaning symbol, "Speaking of Text, Ganbu": "Gan, Meiye." Contain one from the mouth. One, the Tao also. Duan Yu cut note: "Gan is one of the five tastes." And the five flavors are delicious and sweet. Contain one from the mouth. One, the Tao also. The food is different, and the tao is one. The so-called taste of the plethane also. Therefore, all the words taken from "sweet" are related to the meaning of sweet, delicious and so on, and the original meaning of "cockle" refers to the delicious taste of the shell. A feature of the bivalves of the cockle family is that the radial ribs are protruding, the texture is like a tile ridge, and its shell is called "corrugated". Common species of cockles are hairy cockles, mud cockles and cockles.
The hairy cockle is named because the shell surface is covered with a brown fluffy skin, which is called "hair clam" in Huangxian dialect, and the inner surface of the shell is white with teeth on the edges. Hair clams like to live on muddy beaches, more near the estuary, and there are sporadic distributions in the fine sand areas of the shallow sea, which I have touched when swimming, and the taste is very fishy, and the taste is incomparable with that of yellow clams.
Hair clams
The distribution area and resources of hair clams account for the first place in the marine shellfish in Shandong Province, I remember that when I was a child, every autumn, the village commissary would pull a cart of wool clams to pile in front of the door, use iron picks to sell, the price is extremely cheap, a few cents a pound, go home to wash and steam, you can eat. Hair clam fire is bigger "Deng gun", the fire is just open as well, some do not open, you have to use a coin to break the twisted teeth of the top of the shell to open. In the late 1980s, Shanghai had a hepatitis A outbreak caused by eating contaminated clams, and the superiors issued documents prohibiting the consumption of clams, and they have not eaten much since then.
Song Lifang's "Taiping Guangji" quotes Tang Liu Ke's "Records of the Ridge Table" as saying: "Tile houses, building clams and clams, etc., Nanzhong was oldly called 'cockle (pronunciation) son'. Because Lu Jun Shangshu was a town, it was changed to a tile house, and it was named after a tile with a ridge on its shell. There is flesh in the shell, purple and full of belly, and the wide people are still heavy, and they are mostly burned to recommend wine, which is commonly known as 'heavenly heat'. The writer Gao Yang believes that this is a mud cockle, "blanched and half cooked, with onion ginger soy sauce, or red curd milk marinated and cold mixed", very beautiful. Mud cockles and clams look very similar, but there is no hair, the shell is gray and white, there are more in the south, and the mud cockles are called "cockle fields".
Mud cockles
Mud cockles contain heme in their blood, and when eating mud cockles, there is a red soup in it, like blood water, so it is also called "blood cockles", which is said to be very complementary. Wang Zengqi wrote in "The First Visit to Fujian": "Mud cockles are also known as blood cockles, and the flesh is red and extremely tender. Zhang Dai said that the only people who do not apply oil and salt and have all five flavors are crabs and cockles, and he does not know whether they are mud cockles or not. I eat mud cockles, and I peel off the shell and get it into my mouth without adding any condiments. I don't eat much vegetables, each one is just a few pieces to taste the taste, eating mud cockles is a big appetite, a large plate of mud cockles let me eat a small half alone, in front of the cockle shells piled into a small mound, the intention is not endless. Eating mud cockles and drinking hot rice wine are rare in life. ”
The Cockle is the largest of the three brothers of the Cockles, "Sayonara": "Kui, Tang Dou also." Duan Yu's note: "The Biography of Mao Shi said that 'big bucket, three feet long' is also. By extension, everything is known as the Queen. The cockle is the size of a fist, and the people of Huangxian County do not know its name, calling it "big hair clam".
Clams
Chibei
It does look a lot like a clam, but it is much larger than a clam, which is easy to distinguish from the size, but how to distinguish if three cockles of the same size are put together? Mud cockles have no hair, relatively easy to distinguish a little, but the most scientific way is to count their radioactive ribs, hair cockles in 35, cockles in more than 40, mud cockles at least only about 20, so its radiation ribs are the thickest. The axe is large and red, so it is also called "Akabei", and Japanese cuisine likes to use Akabei to make sashimi or sushi, which is more delicious than steaming.
There is also a shellfish that looks a bit like cockles, and there are also fine radial ribs, but the surface of the shell is reddish brown, no hair, and the growth lines are layered, such as the long grass tomama house, layered on top of each other, the scientific name is bird clams, belonging to the bivalve curtain clam family, there are a small number of production in the Huangxian sea, I have touched the complete shell, but I have not caught a living body.
Cockles
Bird shells
The name of the cockle comes from its slender and curved small tongue (axe foot), shaped like a bird's head, generally called "bird shell" in the restaurant, its small tongue is mostly used to dip horseradish raw to eat, sweet and crisp, unforgettable entrance.
There is also a clam appearance and cockle is more similar, there are also radial ribs and growth lines, compared to the cockle, its radial ribs are more fine, the layering of the growth pattern is not so obvious, the two are crisscrossed, like cloth patterns, so it is called "Edo cloth clam",
Edo cloth clams
It belongs to the bivalve clam family, and belongs to the same family as the Wen clam, the Japanese mirror clam, and the Philippine clam, and is said to be more abundant in the Penglai Sea.
There are many types of clam snails, most of which can be eaten, not only delicious taste, but also rich in protein, vitamins and inorganic salts, which are extremely beneficial to the human body, and what is more rare is that clams are cheap and are truly popular seafood. In the evening of summer, fry a plate of spicy clams, steam a pot of hair clams, ice a few dozen beers, invite three or two friends, chat a few idle days, if life is like this, why do you want your husband?
Supplement: In the hidden language of Huangxian dialect, clams refer to female yin, especially when the village women scold, this word appears quite frequently, this seafood flavor is full of scolding, if people in inland areas must be confused, this is also one of the characteristics of the dialect of the coastal area.