Jiangsu has fertile land and pleasant climate, and is a famous land of fish and rice. The unique geographical characteristics and humanistic character have laid a solid foundation for the industrial and commercial development of Jiangsu and spawned many long-established Jiangsu brands. As early as the Warring States period, Fan Li started a business in Changganli, Nanjing, known as the "Ancestor of Chinese Merchants". At the time of the Tang and Song dynasties, Jiangsu's tea, silk, liquor, ceramics and other hundred industries flourished and were sold throughout the country. After the modern era, Jiangsu opened up the trend, the rise of industry, all walks of life gradually formed a brand concept, the emergence of a large number of long-established brands.
These long-established brands have distinct regional cultural characteristics, inherit and develop unique craftsmanship and technology, and reflect the diligence and wisdom of the people of Jiangsu everywhere. Let's walk into the long-established brands with shops like forests and goods like clouds, look back at the old-fashioned past that used to be morning bells and twilight drums, and blue wisps of the road, and appreciate the old-fashioned culture that has accumulated thick and thin hair and shined brilliantly.
"Thin willows are born on the shore, and peach blossoms are red." Shake the water of the Qin Dynasty, and the branches carry the wind of the Jin Dynasty. On the stone archway of the peach leaf crossing of the Qinhuai River in Nanjing today, the four big characters of the horizontal book "Ancient Peach Leaf Crossing" are vigorous and powerful, and I don't know how many people have aroused the feelings of "ten miles of Qinhuai, day and night, up and down the sky".
From the Six Dynasties to the Ming and Qing dynasties, Taoyedu was a bustling area, with rivers competing and lights and boats.
At the beginning of the last century, a vegetarian shop with only three or five tables and chairs opened in Taoyedu, and the factor dishes were turquoise, the willow trees were easy to live and long, and the clouds were "weeping willows, full of greenery", and "green willow residence" got its name.
With the change of wind and rain, The Green Willow Vegetarian Restaurant has changed its name several times, changed its address, changed the chef, but in the century-old history, it has absorbed the true meaning of Chinese vegetarian culture, brought together the essence of vegetarian cooking, and formed a catering brand "time-honored brand" that integrates the palace, temples, folk vegetarian food and exquisite halal cuisine.
Green Willow House today
The green willow residence, which inherits the afterglow of the six dynasties and the seasonal fashion, also bears witness to the vicissitudes of the ancient capital of Jinling.
In addition to objective geographical environmental factors, as early as the Southern and Northern Dynasties period, the vegetarian tradition in nanjing was closely related to the local history and culture.
Emperor Wu of Liang in the Southern Dynasty, because of his belief in Buddhism, concentrated on building a large number of Buddhist temples in the capital. Buddhism advocated vegetarian food, temple food was all Suhoor, and the emperor vigorously promoted vegetarian food in the court, setting up a special vegetarian bureau, which led to the development and prosperity of the vegetarian industry in Nanjing. Vegetarian food in the temple continues to improve, flowing into the community, forming a vegetarian tradition in the folk.
The saying that "Nanjing people don't know treasure, a mouthful of white rice and a mouthful of grass" has gradually spread.
Developed to the Qing Dynasty, vegetarian food in the Jiangnan area has formed an industry, which has become a common practice, and people can alienate fat and fat, and eat vegetables and ferns and be willing to eat. Li Yu youyun of the Qing Dynasty: "The meat is not as good as meat, the meat is not as good as the vegetables, and it is also natural to approach the common asymptotic." ”
The vegetarian dishes of the city restaurants are more popular for "fresh, tender, crisp, refreshing and fragrant", and there are many types of vegetarian food, exquisite technology, and updated from time to time. There are vegetarian chicken, vegetarian fish, vegetarian meat, vegetarian sea cucumber, vegetarian shark fin, vegetarian pigeon eggs, and even vegetarian feasts, known as "meat and vegetarian", the production of fine can be chaotic.
Originating from the late Qing Dynasty and the beginning of the People's Republic, the dou turned into a chaotic world, and the "Green Willow Residence" signboard with gold characters on a green background came into being in Nanjing. This ancient capital on the banks of the Yangtze River offers excellent natural conditions and high-quality raw materials for vegetarian cooking. "Red amaranth and purple eggplant, planted in the garden of Wuxing; green sunflower green grass, breeding in the area of Fu." The Third Diet chapter of the "Kindergarten Qionglin" is like this.
At the beginning of its establishment, There were only more than a dozen employees and more than a dozen desktops in Luliuju, but the store was elegantly arranged, and soon after its opening, it attracted many good men and women to taste vegetarian food. Soon, the number of vegetarian varieties increased from more than a dozen to hundreds, becoming a rather distinctive vegetarian restaurant on the banks of the Qinhuai River.
In 1997, Green Willow Vegetarian Vegetable Bun and Green Willow Vegetarian Chicken won the bronze medal of "Chinese Famous Snacks"
During the Republic of China, "Green Willow Residence" was a place where high-ranking officials often drank, and Mr. Sun Yat-sen, who advocated vegetarian food, was a frequent visitor to Green Willow Residence. In addition, famous painters Qi Baishi and Chen Dayu, famous calligrapher Lin Sanzhi, Zhao Puchu, then president of the Buddhist Association of China, and other celebrities from all walks of life also came to change their taste and taste new.
The cooking skills of Luliuju are more exquisite, using green natural vegetarian raw materials such as vegetables, fungi, soy products, etc., through handmade techniques such as wrapping, folding, rubbing, rubbing, rubbing, rolling, etc., using cooking methods such as frying, slipping, frying, frying, steaming, and boiling to make various delicious dishes. And to do fry to be crisp, crisp but not raw, fried to crisp, crisp and fragrant, burned to be clear, clear but not thin, baked through, oily brine dry.
Exquisite traditional craftsmanship
The organic combination of Jinling handmade vegetarian food and the rich cooking skills of the Jiangnan region, the fine craftsmanship of the green willow knife, the emphasis on change, the handicraft of sutuo meat and the special hanging soup preparation method, etc., are currently mainly inherited by representative inheritors and chefs in their daily cooking dishes.
Chen Bingyu, a native of Nanjing who was born during the Tongzhi period, entered the "Chen Ji Kitchen Shop" apprentice at the age of 14 and worshiped Chen Yongping as a teacher. Because of his willingness to endure hardships and good understanding, he stayed in Chen Ji's kitchen after three years of full training until 1913, and then became a cook in Jingjiang, Gaoyou and other local governments, and served as a chef and foreman in famous restaurants in Wuhu and Nanjing.
Chen Bingyu, who served as the imperial chef of the Qing Palace, is familiar with the origin and characteristics of high-grade raw materials, and is proficient in furnaces, cases, plates, and samples, and after devoting himself to Luliuju, he brings the elegant court vegetarian cooking skills and precious recipes to the folk, laying an important foundation for the formation and development of Luliuju vegetarian cooking skills, and Chen Bingyu is also respected as the first inheritor of Lvliuju vegetarian cooking skills.
Green Willow House Restaurant Jinding Vegetarian Banquet
After that, Wei Cailong, who worked in Nanjing Benbang Restaurant, took Chen Bingyu as his teacher and brought the cooking skills of Jingsu cuisine to Luliuju and became the second generation of inheritors; the third generation of inheritors Chen Deyin was born in Nanjing in 1923, because he had engaged in the cooking of vegetarian dishes in the temple, enriching the vegetarian cooking skills of the temples of Luliuju.
During the Republic of China period, with the joint efforts of the second and third generations of inheritors of the green willow ju spoon, the vegetarian cooking technique of the green willow house gradually became self-contained.
From the late 1940s to the 1950s, the vegetarian cooking skills mastered by chefs in the food and beverage industry around Nanjing were practiced and passed down in the folk.
It is lamentable that history always swallows up a side of calm in this way. On the eve of liberation, Lu Liuju closed its doors due to the cold business and could not be maintained.
Located in taiping south road green willow restaurant old photos
But the story doesn't stop abruptly. After a short period of sealing, in 1963, Green Willow Ju re-entered the jianghu with a new attitude. Under the kind care of the party and the government, the Nanjing Catering Company raised 20,000 yuan to convert the Taiping Restaurant at No. 248 Taiping South Road into a Green Willow Ju Vegetarian Restaurant, which opened for business on May 1 of that year.
Chen Bingyu, who is nearly eighty years old, was invited to "go out of the mountain" to lead again. Adhering to the innovative spirit of "living to the old and learning from the old", he led his apprentices Wei Cailong and Chen Deyin to take charge of the spoon, on the basis of inheriting the original dishes of The Green Willow Residence, and adapting to the times to innovate - cooking the "fried silver hammer" with jasmine flowers with buds to bloom; cooking "pearl shoots" with tender unseen corn cobs; and later developing new famous dishes such as "four treasures of plants" (silkworm spit silk, bee stuffed honey, valley sheep, and fire pit chicken). Since then, all generations of chefs have put "innovation" on the desk, not closed doors, not conservative.
Lu Liuju is the fourth generation of chef Zhang Zhijun
After Chen Bingyu passed away, Wei Cailong, Chen Deyin, Zhang Zhijun and Bao Yongxiang continued to innovate on the basis of their masters, and developed multi-colored shrimp, bright moon pigeon eggs, jade toast, silver bud vegetarian wings, etc., with mellow taste, vivid image, and short supply.
Lu Liu Ju has created many vegetarian dishes with Jinling flavor characteristics, which are still famous. Although the raw materials are nothing more than soy products, gluten, bamboo shoots, mushrooms and various types of vegetables, after several generations of famous chefs carefully cooked, constantly reform and innovation into the color, aroma, taste, shape of the meat vegetarian dishes, such as cold cuts such as duck gizzard, ham, roast duck; stir-fried vegetables such as crab powder, crab paste, fish fillet waist flower, anchovy shrimp, kung pao chicken cubes; brine dishes such as osmanthus meat, ancient meat, fried yellow finches, sweet and sour yellow fish, crisp eel, etc., not only vivid image, even the taste is very similar.
After the shop was rebuilt, celebrity chefs returned and diners flocked to the restaurant. Zhao Puchu, then president of the Buddhist Association of China, and Master Mingshan, vice president, were loyal "fans" of Luliuju.
On October 26, 1963, Zhao Puchu held a banquet at Luliuju to receive a Japanese Buddhist delegation; in 1964, when Zhao Puchu accompanied the religious delegations of 8 Southeast Asian countries to Nanjing Qixia Temple for exchanges, he named the chef of Luliuju to preside over the banquet at the temple; Master Mingshan proposed a banner for Luliuju - "Mixed Tastes", praising its vegetarian products, which are endlessly evocative.
Vegetarian food contains the Buddhist concept of respect for life, and also allows Lu Liuju to form a good relationship with many religious people. As a well-known vegetarian restaurant at home and abroad, Midoriuju often sends people to the temple to teach skills and help establish a hall for foreign exchanges. Many valuable temple vegetarian production techniques and methods have been preserved and carried forward to this day.
At the same time, in the "exchange" with international catering peers, Luliuju also upholds a high sense of national responsibility.
In 1990, a delegation of Japanese Chinese cuisine therapists led by Tetsu Sakurai came to Midoriyu-ju for exchanges, during which eight peers asked Chen Deyin about the art of cooking while eating, and called this feast "a model of Chinese vegetarian cuisine", which was quickly "swept away". After eating, the guest asked for a sample, which was politely declined. This reflected the reception principle of "warm, friendly, and different inside and outside", and was unanimously praised by the Ministry of Commerce and the provincial and municipal governments at that time.
There is a scene of queuing in front of the green willow house
In the eyes of more people, Green Willow Residence is no longer just a wisp of fresh food, but also a cultural symbol that penetrates into the soul, affecting the warm memories of years and true feelings.
"The green mountains are still there, and the sunset is red several times." In the ups and downs of history, the green willow house is still full of simple and people-friendly food aroma.
However, with the acceleration of the pace of reform and opening up, under the background of the continuous updating of the new economy, new technologies and new products, "long-established" enterprises are also facing severe survival challenges in the increasingly competitive market system.
Green Willow residence seeks development in "thinking about change". In 1986, considering the long history of halal catering in China and the deep love of consumers, coupled with some of the concepts of halal catering coincided with Luliuju, Luliuju decided to develop halal catering industry.
After a rigorous renovation, Lvliuju successfully passed the certification and was renamed Halal Lvliuju, providing consumers with more choices. In 1997, the storefront of Luliuju was expanded, and a new 5-storey building was erected, with a business area of 1600 square meters, nearly double the expansion of the old store.
In 1998, the first anniversary of the opening of the new building of Luliuju
After several generations of continuous efforts for nearly a hundred years, Luliuju has become a wonderful picture of Chinese vegetarian culture, and it is also a well-deserved "golden signboard" in the Chinese catering industry. In 2001, Lvliuju opened a precedent for the chain operation of Nanjing's catering industry, and opened two chain stores in Xinmen and Suojin New Village to expand its operation. Since then, Luliuju has gradually walked out of Nanjing City, Yueyang Store and Yancheng Store have become well-known in the local household less than a month after opening; Ningguo Store has just opened a week ago to attract abbots who are far away in the deep mountain temple, and after tasting a bowl of Luohan Guanzhai noodles, they did not hesitate to set up ten tables of vegetarian banquet orders.
There are hundreds of supermarket outlets in Nanjing
In December 2001, Lvliuju was named the first batch of "National Chinese Restaurant Famous Stores" in China, and in September 2002, at the 3rd China Food Festival, Lvliuju was awarded the title of "International Famous Restaurant" by the China Hotel Association and the International Hotel and Catering Association. In 2004, Lvliuju was acquired by Nanjing Gunandu Group, and a special technical department was set up to develop new dishes, which quickly promoted the modernization and transformation of the enterprise. In 2008, Lvliuju established a modern food production factory with an annual supply of more than 180 million yuan, and in 2009, "Lvliuju Vegetarian Cooked Technology" was selected as an intangible cultural heritage project in Jiangsu Province.
It is worth mentioning that whether it is brand extension or technological innovation, while using modern transformation tools, Luliuju has never departed from its cultural heritage and traditional craftsmanship. Just as posterity commented that Chen Bingyu was "a true man and has no reservations about seeking teaching", today, Luliuju has always adhered to the spirit of Chen Lao's "re-transmission and re-teaching", and established a training class for the Intangible Cultural Heritage Technology Research Institute, forming a succession echelon and becoming a group foundation for the continuous continuation of traditional skills. By organically combining its own profound cultural capital with financial capital, this century-old "old brand" is rejuvenating its charm.
In this way, Green Willow Ju Vegetarian Cuisine seamlessly integrates hundreds of years of history and Jiangnan culture into one, with stories in the dishes and responsibilities in the inheritance.
For the old capital of Myanmar, what about people whose thoughts are about things? Take a sip of the old fire honey root juice, you will sip out the good story of "taste its freshness, taste its truth".
The Dragon Boat Festival is coming to Luliuju to launch a festival gift box
"An era has passed away, and after the wine is lit, the shadow of the clothes turns into smoke and dust everywhere. And in the midst of such a pervasive dust, we nostalgic gluttons can still smell the remnants of those drunken aromas in this world that has already pushed the cup and changed the cup. ”
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