Domestic goods are not original sin.
Wen | Jian'an
"Fluorescent agents" is not a new topic, but it is extremely lethal under the comments of beauty bloggers. Recently, beauty blogger Long Momo released a pro-test video on Douyin, alluding to the fact that the mask products of domestic brands Runbaiyan and Gu Yu contain "fluorescent agents", which has aroused industry attention.
This year, there have been frequent Internet celebrity bloggers who have "torn" domestic beauty products, questioning brand ingredients for fraud, false labels, etc. Why do Internet celebrities always stare at domestic brands?
The questioning video has been deleted
Because of the "fluorescent agent", Runbaiyan and Guyu were pushed to the cusp of the storm. According to a blue-eye survey, longmomo, a beauty blogger with more than 67w fans on Douyin, suspected that "Runbaiyan Runyang Milk Skin Mask" and "Guyu Milk Skin Mask" contained "fluorescent agents" by posting pro-test videos.
Subsequently, Gu Yu issued the "Relevant Statement on Gu Yu Milk Skin Mask" through the Douyin platform, saying that "all products of Gu Yu have been formally filed by the State Food and Drug Administration and comply with the "Cosmetic Safety Technical Specifications". Gu Yu said that Gu Yu's milk skin mask and membrane cloth do not contain "migratory fluorescent agents". At the same time, Gu Yu also published the fluorescent agent test report of the third-party testing agency on its mask products to confirm the safety of the product.
▍Screenshot from Gu Yu Douyin official number (Screenshot from 18:23 on October 19)
Following Gu Yu, Runbaiyan also responded through the Douyin platform, "Runbaiyan milk skin mask product safety!" Meet national standards! There are no fluorescent agents in the membrane cloth and the liquid! Runbaiyan further said that "fluorescence phenomenon" does not mean that there is a fluorescent agent! The "fluorescent phenomenon" of the milk skin mask is caused by the addition of some active ingredients in the liquid and the addition of pet in the film cloth, which is a common phenomenon in many skin care products. Similarly, Runbaiyan also issued a third-party agency test report on the "migratory fluorescent brightener" project.
▍Screenshot from runbaiyan douyin official number (October 19th 16:49 screenshot)
It is worth mentioning that as of yesterday (October 18), the relevant videos and runbaiyan response videos released by beauty blogger Long Momo on Douyin have been deleted, while Gu Yu's statement can still be played normally. As of press time, in response to the statements of both Runbaiyan and Gu Yu, the blogger has not responded further.
Regarding the deletion of the statement, Blue Eye asked for confirmation yesterday. The other party said, "No deletion, still there, we are hiding." According to Today's investigation by Blue Eye, the relevant statements of Runbaiyan on the Douyin platform have been restored.
Third-party agency testing is more accurate
The reason why this matter has attracted attention is that on the one hand, the influence of domestic brands continues to erupt, on the other hand, because fluorescent agents have always been the topic of discoloration of beauty lovers.
It is understood that fluorescent brighteners are a fluorescent dye, or white dye, which is also a complex organic compound. Its characteristic is that it can excite the incident light to produce fluorescence, so that the contaminated material obtains a gleaming effect similar to glowstone, so that the material seen by the naked eye is very white, achieving the effect of whitening.
Public information shows that the main harm of fluorescent agents is that after being absorbed by the human body, it is difficult to be quickly decomposed, and the second is to accumulate in the human body and increase the burden on the liver. It has also been said that "fluorescent substances may have a potential carcinogenic risk." However, this statement has not been supported by relevant authorities (see the blue eye article "Five Pictures Tell You, Will Fluorescent Agents Cause Cancer?"). 》）。
Because the relevant videos released by the above bloggers were deleted, it is impossible to verify the method used to detect that the masks of Runbaiyan and Guyu contain "fluorescent agents". However, due to the attention of fluorescent agents, many beauty lovers are accustomed to using highlighters, violet lamps and other tools to detect whether skin care products contain "fluorescent agents", and some Douyin bloggers who advertise as dermatologists also recommend this method to detect.
"Unreliable." In response to the method of testing fluorescent agents with tools such as highlighters and violet lamps, Wang Jing, general manager of Bird Chuangyan, said, "Many substances can produce fluorescent phenomena, but this does not mean that fluorescent agents are contained. In his view, the detection of fluorescent agents must be quantitatively analyzed by a third-party testing agency in order to obtain accurate results.
Lin Lijun, director of makeup research and development of Guangdong Shangpinhui Cosmetics Co., Ltd., said that ultraviolet radiation luminescence can only indicate that there is a fluorescent reaction, not that there is a fluorescent agent. Many raw materials such as amino acids and vitamins can fluoresce, but the strength is different. Lin Lijun believes that fluorescent agents and fluorescence can not be equated, in the end the products involved contain no fluorescent agents? It is necessary to entrust a third-party testing agency to conduct the test, rather than simply illuminating it with tools such as banknote detectors.
In another statement released by Runbaiyan, Liu Zhe, director of R&D and management of Bloomage's biological skin care business line, also popularized the source of the fluorescence phenomenon. Liu Zhe said that the phenomenon of fluorescence does not mean that there is a fluorescent agent. According to its introduction, some active substances in the liquid material will appear fluorescent under ultraviolet irradiation, such as 332 tortuous cactus stem extract, milk protein, tocopheryl acetate and the like.
The "injured" are always domestic products
The fundamental reason why an old topic can attract attention is that domestic brands are beginning to flock to the market c position. According to the "Domestic Beauty Insight Report" released by Tencent, the national cosmetics brand has accounted for 56% of the market share; from the perspective of consumers' willingness to buy, 90% of consumers said that they will buy domestic beauty again in the future. It is precisely because the domestic brand has a topic degree, in the process of the growth of the domestic brand, there will inevitably be a lot of doubts, and the encounter of Runbaiyan and Gu Yu is not an isolated case.
In June this year, Douyin broadcaster "Macromolecular Laboratory" released a test video pointing out that the solubility of the active ingredient hexapeptide in the Polaria Ruby Essence did not match the amount added by the brand. The incident ended with an apology from the Macromolecular Laboratory (see the BlueEye article "First Time!"). Cosmetic engineers rage at "Dr. Skincare").
Coincidentally, another Douyin broadcaster exposed the problem of the false proportion of the yeast component of the Doctor Who mask in August this year. In response, Doctor Who said, "There is no dilution of raw materials and conceptual additions in its products. ”
Prior to this, skincare brand "Skin See" was questioned by many beauty bloggers for "deceiving consumers" because of the "inconsistent formula" of a new and old version of makeup remover oil. In this regard, Beijing Zhilejie Biotechnology Co., Ltd., the parent company of "Skin See", issued a statement saying: "Due to the formulation adjustment of the new version of the cleansing oil and the unclear and insufficient communication between consumers and talents, the public has been misled. ”
Through the above cases, it is not difficult to see that on the one hand, the behavior of beauty bloggers can play a supervisory role in the brand and eliminate information asymmetry; on the other hand, it also exposes the uneven quality and professionalism of some bloggers.
"I'm afraid I don't know anything"
It is also undeniable that benefiting from the advent of the Internet era, Internet celebrity bloggers play an important role in the rise of this wave of domestic goods. Through the promotion of these internet celebrity bloggers on new platforms such as Xiaohongshu and Douyin, it is not only possible to achieve a number of domestic brands but also to make consumers like their products. However, "success is also Xiao He, failure is also Xiao He", internet celebrity bloggers who master huge traffic and consumer trends can also let the brand dust because of their own imprecision.
"Because there is no threshold, beauty blogger reviews need to find some topics." Wang Jing said that if the brand does not care about making products, it needs to be hammered, which can play a supervisory role in the industry and is also a good thing for consumers. I am most afraid of the kind that has no understanding, spreads false rumors, and disrupts the industry.
"As long as bloggers aren't for traffic, black for black's sake." Back and forth, brands can also add points to themselves. Lin Lijun believes that it is normal for beauty bloggers to raise questions, and the brand side can respond normally. As you go from here and there, information becomes more and more transparent, which is good for consumers.
"Consumers need different voices, but the unprofessionalism of beauty bloggers can also cause accidental injuries to the brand." A senior industry insider said that although many incidents ended with an apology from beauty bloggers, there are many times when there will be information errors, and consumers only remember the "negative information" of the brand, which is a devastating blow to beauty domestic products.
Overall, the rise of the industry and domestic beauty requires different voices to promote progress, but these voices should be more scientific, more pure, and more vocal. Otherwise, the domestic cosmetics that hit the attack are also easy to be destroyed by the words of an "empty mouth".
1999 yuan / year became a personal member of BlueEye Intelligence, and industry intelligence was little known.