(The title uses the word "touching porcelain", but it is more accurate: stealing!) ）
Recently heard that Huai'an has won the "Food Capital" of the United Nations, and I can't help but sigh: This is the success of Huai'an's staged theft!
Because the two words Huaiyang are other names for Yangzhou! It is not a general term for the Huai'an and Yangzhou areas at all!
Huaiyang cuisine and Huai'an have no half-cent relationship!
Because the two words Huaiyang were originally other names for Yangzhou!
When there were two words, Huaiyang didn't even exist, let alone Huai'an!
Hangou, also known as The Huaiyang River, named after the city of Yangzhou (Hancheng) - The canal between the Huai River and the Yangtze River!
Three hundred years after the opening of Hangou (Huaiyang River), The Qin Dynasty began to set up Huaiyin County!
That is to say, when there was the Huaiyang Canal, the huaiyin ground was still a nameless wilderness land!
In fact, many people do not know that the two words "Huaiyang" are other names for Yangzhou! To be precise, the word Huaiyang is another name for Yangzhou City! And not another name for the Yangzhou area!
The Tang and Song literati liked to call Yangzhou Weiyang, and the Ming and Qing literati liked to call Yangzhou Huaiyang! But folk are accustomed to calling Yangzhou Weiyang!
After liberation, Yangzhou cuisine (folk used to be called Yangzhou cuisine, literati called Weiyang cuisine, Huaiyang cuisine less used) was officially named Huaiyang cuisine!
After the official name of Huaiyang cuisine, for decades since the founding of the People's Republic of China, no Huai'an people have ever said that Huai'an cuisine is Huaiyang cuisine.
Huai'an people publicized that Huaiyang cuisine is Huai'an cuisine, from Yangzhou Vice Mayor Ding Xiemin to Huai'an, at that time the cultural stage, economic singing in the era of investment, Huai'an really has nothing to sing, just take Yangzhou's famous Huaiyang cuisine concept over, borrow Huaiyang hype, engage in food festivals, build Huaiyang cuisine museum, and so on.
So now Huai'an people think that Huai'an is also the birthplace of Huaiyang cuisine, and even many Huai'an people think that Huai'an is mainly Huai'an!
This is actually a manifestation of not understanding historical common sense!
Huaiyang, in history, is undoubtedly another name for Yangzhou. No other explanation!
Take a look at the literature:
Selected Travels of Past Dynasties: Qing Dynasty Journey to Wolf Mountain
..."Wolf Mountain, east of Huaiyang Xiong special victory also. The river water travels thousands of miles from Hushu through Wu Chu, to the point where the Hao Lamb is reckless and meets with the GCC. ”...
--Is the Wolf Mountain in Nantong directly east of Huai'an?
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"Twelve Laughs": The First Laugh Foolish Fool Meets Foolish Fool
..."When the Fa Shi went out to pass on the mantle, he was willing to give his thick arms to the Lord. But he said that Hua Zhongyuan was happy to have Pei Xiaoxing, accompanied by him day and night, talking and laughing along the way, and □ his loneliness. After more than ten days of travel, I have already reached the ground in Yangzhou. Where Huaiyang is located, it is really a bustling place, and people can't play endlessly. Saw:
Everywhere the fragrance is rich, and the family's brocade tent is fluttering. The song and dance hall is delicate, and the bamboo bullets are wonderful. More envious of the mountain weaving, the prince and grandson of the prince Lian Hao. Spending money to buy laughter stationed in Zhengyuan, more lively than the cold food Lantern, Guangling does not let Wuling Hao. ”...
isn't ———— this clear? Huaiyang is just another name for Yangzhou City! In the poetry and song literature of the ancient literati, the names of Yangzhou City are generally Guangling, Weiyang, Huaiyang, and Jiangdu, which are used separately in different sentences, and the other Zhuxi Leitang and so on are used less.
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"Twenty-Four Histories of Popular Interpretation": The fortieth time Mixed Qiankun returned to unify Haiyan Heqing
Duoduo moved from Guide to Sizhou, crossing the Huai River, near Yangzhou. At this time, Shi Kefa was red-hearted to serve the country, and Wen Qingbing had crossed the Huai River, and the emergency inspector defended. Before he could go a few miles, He Suddenly Nanjing Fei came to adjust, saying that Zuo Liangyu had plotted a rebellion and invaded from Jiujiang. Kefa was in a hurry, so he turned back to Jiangnan. Ke Fa Fang crossed the river and arrived at Yan Zi Ji, and then received an edict saying that Huang Degong had broken the good jade, so that Ke Fa could quickly return to Huaiyang. Kefa still wanted to go to the aid, reported that Sizhou had been lost, and rushed back to Yangzhou. Who knew that the Qing soldiers had come from Tianchang Liuhe, thirty miles away from Yangzhou.
"Popular Interpretation of the History of Qiao": The Thirty-third Time The ZhongzhongChen Quan Xiangshi Was determined
...... Shi Kefa, who was stationed in Huaiyang, worked hard day and night, suffering from both soldiers and wages, and tried again and again.
The thirty-sixth time, the emperor rebelled against the party and faked the election
...... At the right time, the Ryukyu Kingdom sent envoys to pay tribute, and also honored the dragon seal, and met on the fifteenth day. This is a very large matter of the country, and the ministers of the near land have moved to the text. The officials guarded the flood land and naturally did not leave their posts. It is to defend the Huaiyang Cabinet Department Shi Kefa, supervise Pukou Shilang Shen Shaofang, and defend Xuzhou Shilang Wei Yinwen.
——— Shi Kefa quickly returned to Huaiyang! Shi Kefa is stationed in Huaiyang! Shi Kefa defends Huaiyang!
... Could it be that Shi Kefa was running between Huai'an and Yangzhou, three or four hundred miles apart? First, the text is clear that "he will not leave his post"; second, is there a record of Shi Kefa stationed in Huai'an for defense?
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"Snow Moon Plum": The forty-ninth time, the golden bridge of the sword
Geng Zixin promoted Huaiyang City Guard; Deputy General Dong Weisheng Songjiang Counselor General; Wenjin Shenghu County Garrison; Gao Zhuo Shengping Lake Guerrilla;
——— is very clear: Huaiyang City Guard!
Explain what? It shows that Huaiyang is a city, not what Huai'an Yangzhou area.
Or that sentence: Huaiyang is another name for Yangzhou City, not another name for Yangzhou area, and it is not the name of the vast area of Yangzhou in Huai'an.
Wonders of Ancient Antiquity: Volume 26 Miss Cai endures humiliation and revenge
... Zhu Yuan took the oral words, and each person also played forty. After preparing the documents, the poor public servants were sent to the Yangzhou capital to close the previous volume. Zhu Yuan did the county slaughter for three years, and the Wuchang County Road was not left behind, and the dogs did not bark at night. To take the imperial history, he traveled to Huaiyang on a business trip. RuiHong instructed Fu: "This group of robbers, in Yangzhou Prison, has been suspended for many years, and they have never decided." When they went to each other, they sacrificed their father and two brothers with the slave family. One is to express the sincerity of the slave family, and the other is to express the faith of the whole public..."
Draft History of the Qing Dynasty: Volume 10 Benji 10
◎ Kojong Honkiichi
Gengzi, cut Jiangsu Haiphong Road, set Huai Xu Hai Road, stationed in Xuzhou Capital. Su Song patrols the road and manages the pond worker. Yangzhou capital is subordinate to Changzhen Road. Originally, Huaixu and Huaiyang Were set up to manage river workers.
——— clear, right? The difference between Huaixu and Huaiyang?
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"The Complete Compilation of The Words of The Yang Lian Cong": The Good Story of the Yang Lian Cong
When Mr. Nguyen Yun Tai was fifty years old, he served in Cao Shuai. Mr. Kong Yeshan, the Duke of Yansheng, gave Shou Lianyun: "Dingjia Lianke, all belong to the Gongmen Tao Li Xia; Huaiyang Lie County, and even open the military government Zi Sangjian." "Mr. Gai is a native of Yangzhou, and is also under the jurisdiction of Cao Shuai."
——— there are many historical materials, without exception, it proves that the word "Huaiyang" is one of the other names of Yangzhou, which is unmistakable!
After I pointed out that Huaiyang was another name for Yangzhou, there were many Huai'an people blocking me, and none of the Huai'an people admitted to being wrong, dying without admitting mistakes, and then scolding me for pulling me black. Is the quality of the Huai'an people so unbearable?
The world's only culinary undergraduate
Among the four major cuisines, the other three cuisines are all summative cuisines, which are summarized and inductive in the province and are called one cuisine.
Only Yangzhou, with a city alone to achieve a cuisine! Huai'an said soft pocket long fish, in fact, what Huai'an people don't know is that Yangzhou cuisine is not native Yangzhou people in their own homes! Rather, it is a cuisine formed by the brainstorming of all the masters - because Yangzhou is the most prosperous city in China's history, there is no one, in the two Han, Sui, Tang, Ming and Qing dynasties are the most prosperous places, except for the short period of time when the city was destroyed due to resistance due to the change of dynasties, Yangzhou is the most prosperous place!
Therefore, Qian Mu, a master of modern sinology, once said, "The bottle of water is cold and the weather is cold, and the rise and fall of Yangzhou and a place can help the country's fortunes." ”
Lion's head
Because of the long-term prosperity, the literati and the giant merchants and rich people like to settle in Yangzhou, the so-called "Tianxia scribes half set Weiyang". And Yangzhou City's literati and high-rollers gathered more, forming a fight between the families, over time, the formation of a unique style of systematic cuisine, also known as literati cuisine, court cuisine, scholar cuisine, pay attention to the fine knife work, original taste, etc., the dish in the dream of the Red Chamber is Yangzhou cuisine.
At the 19th China Chefs Festival in 2009, with the official approval of the China Cuisine Association, yangzhou declared "Full Table of Manhan", "Qianlong Royal Banquet", "Red Chamber Morning Banquet", "Red Chamber Banquet", "Yangzhou Eight Monsters Banquet", "Lu Family Banquet", "Three-headed Banquet", "Chunhui Banquet", "Autumn Rui Banquet", "Fireworks March Banquet" declared by Yangzhou as "China Famous Banquet".
Generally speaking of Yangzhou, everyone says that the salt industry and caoyun have made Yangzhou developed, but in fact, it is not quite right!
The core of Yangzhou's economy and culture is not the flashy salt industry and Caoyun, although Yangzhou is the real center of the salt industry and the only real center of Caoyun, but the city with only these two industries is undoubtedly only an upstart city.
The core of Yangzhou's economy and culture is: the center of art handicrafts! It has been since spring and autumn! No matter the evolution of the name (Hancheng, Guangling, Wuzhou, Jiangdu, etc.), the change of the administrative office has never changed the core of Yangzhou!
Yangzhou in the Tang Dynasty was the most prosperous city in the country, historically known as "Yang Yi Yi Yi Er". The prosperity and wealth of Yangzhou are described in Tang poems. For example, Du Mu's "Spring Breeze Ten Mile Yangzhou Road"; Zhang Hu's "Ten Mile Long Street City Well Lian"; Wang Jian's "Night Market Thousand Lights Illuminate the Blue Clouds, High-rise Buildings and Red Sleeved Guests"; Xu Ning "The world is three clear moonlit nights, and the two rogues are Yangzhou". Although there is no mention of cooking in these poems, it is conceivable that since it is the most prosperous city in China, it must be inseparable from the dishes and the liquor store tea house.
Vince Tofu
Are there any poems that specifically record Yangzhou cuisine? There are also, such as Li Bai. Li Bai has visited Yangzhou five times, and the poem he left behind to write directly about food is "Sending Tu Zhao Shaofu to Changlu", "Wei Zhou to Changlu, see the smoke clouds high." Shake the fan to the restaurant, hold the crab claw", eat the crab.
In addition to Li Bai's poems, foreigners also recorded that there were many restaurants and liquor stores in Yangzhou in the Tang Dynasty, and there were many varieties of meals served. There is a monk in Japan named Yuanren, who wrote in the article "The Record of entering the Tang Dynasty and Seeking the Law": "At dusk of the twenty-ninth day, the Taoist customs burn paper money, and the laymen burn bamboo and firecrackers in the night after tomorrow. Inside the street shop, there are hundreds of kinds of food, which are unusually full." The authenticity and importance of the situation of yangzhou restaurants in the Tang Dynasty recorded by this foreign monk are self-evident.
Make Vince tofu
In the Song, Yuan and Ming dynasties, Yangzhou's dishes were abundant. Su Shi, who is familiar to everyone, is a gourmet who can burn braised pork, called Dongpo meat. Su Shi has a lot of food poems, for example, he once recorded Yangzhou's local specialties of fish, drunken crab, lettuce, sprout ginger, salted eggs and so on. At the same time, he also recorded the habit of Yangzhou people to eat puffer fish, that is, the famous "three or two branches of peach blossoms outside the bamboo, the prophet of the spring river plumbing duck, and the short buds of the reeds in the ground, which is exactly when the puffer fish wants to go up."
The most well-known dish in Yang cuisine is the "lion's head", and Mr. Tang Keming, the imperial cook of the last emperor, believes that in the Sui Dynasty, it was listed as one of the four famous dishes in Yangzhou, which was called sunflower meat at that time. Yang Wanli, a great poet of the Song Dynasty, said: "But there will be one with two claws, and there are really Yangzhou geese in the world." ”
In the Yuan Dynasty, there was a foodie named Sadula, and his poems also recorded some of yangzhou's diet. For example, he has a poem, "The willow flowers blow out of the spring river, and the snowflake anchovies come out of the silk net." Anchovy is one of the three fresh fish in the Yangtze River, in addition to anchovies, there are two fresh, one is knife fish, the other is catfish. He also wrote a poem about crossing the Yangtze River after drinking wine, "Yangzhou has forty miles of wine, sleep until Guazhou and cross the river." Suddenly awakened by the river wind, the flying geese in Haimen will not be able to go."
During the Ming and Qing dynasties, it was the mature period of Huaiyang cuisine, why did Huaiyang cuisine mature in the Ming and Qing dynasties? Because during the Yuan Dynasty, the political center of China shifted to Beijing, and the Beijing-Hangzhou Grand Canal became the throat to ensure the supply of the capital, while Yangzhou was still at the confluence of the Beijing-Hangzhou Grand Canal and the Yangtze River.
Yangzhou, where Kangqian flourished, is one of the top ten cities in the world, with a population of more than 500,000. The taxes provided by Yangzhou salt merchants to the state account for nearly half of the country's tax revenue. The history books say so: "The two Huai salt classes, the day under the rent of half of the mediocre", and the two Huai salt merchants are mostly concentrated in Yangzhou. Due to the good economic foundation and good transportation conditions, literati and inkers from all over the country have come to Yangzhou to make a living, the most typical is that a group of calligraphy and painting artists in Yangzhou to sell paintings for a living, forming a painting school with an innovative spirit, known in history as "Yangzhou Eight Monsters".
All things will not exist alone, the prosperity of Yangzhou cuisine is accompanied by the gathering of literati and inkers, along with the development of handicrafts, along with the luxury of luxury centers, with the beginning of the service industry (the three knives of the originator of the service industry), accompanied by the songs of nearly 20,000 poems in the past, accompanied by the exaggeration of Yangzhou's tax revenue accounting for a quarter of the country during the Qing Dynasty.
Without these complementary environmental conditions, it is easy to achieve a cuisine?
Finally, I would like to emphasize again: Huaiyang is one of the other names of Yangzhou City. Don't think that there is a Huai'an character that is Huai'an. In fact, many people do not know that the two words "Huaiyang" are other names for Yangzhou! To be precise, the word Huaiyang is another name for Yangzhou City! And not another name for the Yangzhou area!
Sadly, what I saw was a carnival of stealing stage successes, and no Huai'an people were ashamed of it.