The new head of the Chinese version of "Vogue" is finally alive.
On the cover of this September issue, Zhang Ning boldly launched the 19-year-old newcomer female model Fan Jinghan.
She used the idea of "soliciting new faces" to appear on the cover of the whole network of selected celebrities.
Boldly launching newcomers to the most important September issue is also a dare to try.
The theme of this issue is "new beginnings", and the background is Zhangye Danxia, and the new sun rises, implying a new beginning.
Whether it is a costume match or a vibrant color system, it gives people a feeling of vitality.
After all, before she took office, the Chinese version of "vogue" had a long rollover period.
After Zhang Yu stepped down, anna Wintour, the editor-in-chief of the American edition, was in charge, and the aesthetic during this period was very perfunctory, a bit as long as it could maintain the tone of operation.
The February seal at the beginning of this year is looking for Ken Dou, and the overall composition is very unremarkable.
The major goddesses came to the cover and became "guess guess".
In this half a year, not only China, but also the world's "vogue" are undergoing personnel changes.
France, Germany, Spain, Japan, Russia and other vogue editors have resigned.
Known as the "fashion bible", its existence is not as simple as a fashion magazine.
A century of style, condensed here
Founded in 1892, it is now 129 years old.
Anna Wintur, editor-in-chief of the American vogue, once said on the centenary of its founding:
"Vogue is more than just a magazine: it's history, lifestyle, and even mindset. Dress and ideas that have been throughout the century. ”
△ The aesthetic change of the cover of "Vogue" in the past century
Vogue was founded by American businessman Arthur Baldwin Turnure.
In addition to fashion, it also introduced social etiquette, lifestyle, and the equivalent of a condensed weather vane of the New York upper class at that time.
△ Cover of Vogue in 1892
Photography was not yet popular, and the covers were all in collaboration with illustrators.
△ 1909 magazine cover
In 1909, Vogue was officially acquired by Condé Nast, and the audience began to be clearer, predominantly female, and after 1910 began to have overseas versions.
In the intervening centuries, it has witnessed changes in the status and aesthetics of women.
At the beginning of World War I in 1914, women began to join social activities, and in order to facilitate their work, women began to wear pants and overalls.
After the First World War, women's clothing lines were more atmospheric and concise, with low waist lines, sexy tassels, and embroidery was an oriental element, which was the fashion trend during the First World War.
△ 1926 Vogue July issue
The twenties were the era of Chanel, with straight skirts, bell hats, vintage and elegant.
△ Cover of vogue magazine in 1929
By the 1930s, Vogue had begun to use photographic techniques, and illustration covers were gradually declining.
△ Magazine cover in July 1932
The magazine's chief photographer at the time was Edward Steichen, and the female athlete on the cover held the beach ball above her head, her toned figure line full of vitality.
The magazine cover in 1940 was posed by model Lisa Fonssagrives in various poses, collaged into vogue letters, corresponding to the tennis trend of the time.
The cover of 1943 features a solemn look of a group of women holding a flag, symbolizing that the moment of liberation is coming.
There is also the following classic work, from the cover of 1945.
As World War II drew to a close, a woman stood behind a cross, as if waiting for something.
By the 1950s, vogue magazine covers began to enter a new phase in photography technology, boldly playing with new elements.
For example, the following classic cover, only uses a female side, dark green eyes and red lips, the mole at the corner of the mouth is the finishing touch, and the personality characteristics of the characters are playful and elegant and very charming.
In the '60s, Vogue welcomed a legendary editor-in-chief, Diana Vreeland.
It can be said that she created the golden age of the American version of "Vogue".
She herself was a super pioneer, a woman with romantic cells. It has been said that "girls should think of themselves as independent women after the age of 7".
In order to interpret a different style, she once went to Africa to find two elephants, so that the slender and beautiful model stood in the middle of them, and the delicacy and roughness naturally formed a super visual shock.
It is also the classic blockbuster of 1955's Harper's Bazaar, which is one of the most expensive photographic works in history.
During her tenure at Vogue, she did a lot of very expensive ideas.
For example, photography is required not only to stay in the studio stage, but to let photographers and models go all over the world to produce films, so that readers can appreciate a more vivid and natural beauty.
She asked the editorial department to ship 600 pots of orchids to Alaska for location shooting.
In addition to her, the second fashion witch of vogue's American version is Anna Wintur, who is still active in the fashion section today.
Known as the "nuclear bomb wintour", she is full of endless energy and does things vigorously.
The first cover of her inauguration appeared in pants for the first time, and the female image became more dynamic and intimacious.
She is keenly aware of the influence of celebrities, celebrities and other IPs, expanding the international influence of Vogue.
△ May 1989 issue, Madonna
Inviting Madonna to take the cover was the result of her efforts to overcome public opinion, and she did not expect that the sales of the magazine increased by 40% compared with previous issues.
Although she has always been known for her harshness, detail control, and disdain for people who can't look up to her, she is also a very good Bole, allowing talented people to get the opportunity to shine.
And another of her good teammates who love and kill each other is also worth talking about, Grace Coddington, vogue's creative editor-in-chief.
When he was young, he was beautiful and appeared on the cover of Vogue.
Later, in a car accident, his eyelids and hair were affected, and he began to move from the front of the stage to the backstage, starting a love and killing journey with Anna Wintur.
Her cover themes all have a complete story, fresh and romantic, without taking into account too many commercial elements.
The december 2003 issue titled "Alice in Wonderland" allowed models to interpret what it was like to be wild.
In the September 1993 issue, a group of blockbuster films in which the model came to China to shoot were the subjects of imitation that had been imitated all these years.
After talking about the United States, let's talk about the Italian version of "vogue".
Although it is not as famous as the American version, its artistic value is the highest.
During the tenure of franka Sausani, the highest-contributing editor-in-chief, Sheep felt that she was not shooting the cover, but using the cover as a bullet to target the threats.
For example, the July 2005 issue focused on the excessive pursuit of beauty by contemporary women.
The supermodels perform vivid scenes in plastic surgery hospitals, during surgery and after surgery.
The August 2010 issue reflects the oil spill in the Gulf of Mexico.
She also produced an issue of body diversification, advocating the diversity of beauty, and the protagonists of the shooting are plus-size models.
She died in 2016, but her courage and ideas have become a shining medal in fashion history.
Last April's cover, due to the epidemic, the Cover of the Italian edition used a white cover to express respect for the dead and also symbolize the dawn after rebirth.
Also full of philosophical and humanistic care is the Portuguese version of vogue.
This is the cover of the Portuguese "Vogue" shooting during the epidemic, "Love under the epidemic".
Supermodel Bibiána Baltovičová and her boyfriend Adam Bardy kissed across a mask, saying that love will never go away.
Sofia Lucas, editor-in-chief of the August issue of Portugal this year, said that it was the most satisfactory magazine she had made in many years.
What she wants to express is today's excessive packaging and formalism.
The following is the cover of the September 2018 issue, and the cover is a reproduction of the 1961 musical "West End Story", with handsome men and flaming red lips swaying, and the picture is full of dramatic tension.
The Portuguese covers are concise and narrative, each one is interesting, and they only photograph topics of interest to them.
Comer
The Czech version, although fledgling, has caught up with other countries as soon as it comes.
It is very young, only launched in 2018, and is the 24th international edition of vogue.
The first issue was invited by "Czech Light" karolina kurkova. The letters on her back were to the effect of "When I slowly walked toward you, I became you." ”
Tribute to the love poem written by Václav havel, the first President of the Czech Republic, in Czech.
The Czech version of the cover as a whole pays more attention to photographic techniques, combining fashion and art.
This year's Golden Nine magazine very boldly used eight painters' paintings as covers, which together can be a complete painting, expressing a new expectation of the chaotic world.
Even the version of Taiwan, which has always been ridiculed, previously took the "Zhiyin" route, and every star could not escape the fate of being "transformed", and the soil was difficult to distinguish.
Since Sun Yi took office, she began to become more advanced. She is the cousin of Sun Yunyun, Taiwan's first yuan.
Instead of continuing to use big-name stars after taking office, she re-opened up new paths with a lighter concept.
Last year's March issue was her first submission of papers, and she arranged for four models to shoot in 15 locations, hoping to show Taiwan's local cultural landscape.
Unlike the previous "head tactics", each issue only shoots stars.
Sun Yi's focus is greater, she pays more attention to environmental protection, women's power and other issues.
Some of the inner pages are also quite standard, with clean composition and gorgeous retro colors just right.
It can be said that each version of vogue has its own advantages, and some countries have done a very good job in aesthetics.
Whether it is the attitude to fashion or the concern for social issues, they have achieved the function and responsibility of the media.
And not just limit your horizons to the stars.
It is meaningful for art to connect with the masses, and not to be reduced to fashion waste that reincarnates every year.