Wen 丨 An Xiaolu Ge Yiran Figure 丨 comes from the Network
The recent Shanghai Fashion Week attracted a large number of stars.
Sun Li, who has always lived in simplicity and rarely participated in fashion activities, and Hong Kong star Chen Farong, actually compared beauty on the red carpet of Lu Yan's big show.
On this side of the sports circle, Zhu Ting, the captain of the women's volleyball team, and Li Na, a famous tennis player, also watched the runway of Lu Yan's design brand CommeMoi.
Not only celebrities, but also people who once ran the head resources of the fashion circle are rarely in the same frame.
Zhang Yu, Su Mang, and Xiao Xue, editors-in-chief of the top three magazines, actually appeared together and appeared in the front row of the opening show MASAHAMA.
MASHAMA is the eponymous brand of domestic independent designer Masha Ma, masha Ma graduated from St Martin's College in London, interned in Alexander McQueen's studio, personal design style is very avant-garde and bold, extremely good at cutting sculptural silhouettes, and walking in a dark rock style that is clear at a glance.
Watching the show in the first row together, there is also Hong Huang, who has a relationship with the three former editors-in-chief.
Hong Huang and Xiao Xue are old acquaintances, and the relationship with Su Mang is even more meaningful, when the two were at Deng Wendi's courtyard dinner, the story of Su Mang cutting hong Huang was almost known, and that night, the two did not interact at all.
Although they are all in the front row, the four sit in different directions on the runway, each not intersecting.
Zhang Yuxiu's various big photos after the show, surrounded by old friends in the fashion circle who are familiar with him.
In addition to Masha Ma herself, there are also stylist Lee Dong-tin and fashionista Left Bank Xiao.
They are all battle-hardened old rivers and lakes, and the editors-in-chief are serious about business.
Hong Huang recorded the entire catwalk with video, and Zhang Yu also shared his show watching process on Weibo.
Since last year, Xiaoxue has become the official promotion ambassador of Shanghai Fashion Week, and her face has been directly cast on the Bund big screen.
I felt that she herself was also very proud and relieved.
The most special and subtle is Su Mang.
Although he appeared on the show and took a photo with Hu Bing, it was difficult to find a personal official show photo after going through Weibo.
Basically, they are under the lens of ordinary people, occasionally brought to, and there are no longer clusters of former star friends around, looking slightly haggard and cold.
His own Weibo still remains unsupportable. After all, two months ago, because of Wu Yifan's incident, her strong support speech a few years ago was turned over again and directly banned.
At present, she has begun to silently like on Weibo, but has not posted a new update.
This fashion week is the first time she has returned to the public since she disappeared for so long.
These three female editors-in-chief have all retired from large periodicals in the past two years, but they are all in a state of "retiring without rest".
The trajectories of the three people as editors-in-chief of large periodicals coincide, and their experiences are comparable: the starting point is almost the same, and they all stand in the position of starting at the same time, each growing and secretly competing.
In the fashion magazines known as "five big and three small" in China, VOGUE Clothing and Beauty, BAZAAR Harper's Bazaar and "ELLE World Fashion Garden" are the top three.
The tone of these three major issues is also highly consistent with the style of the three former editors-in-chief.
Vogue looks at the world and is undeniablely "the first issue in the fashion industry", and it is also the "fashion bible for all girls" defined in "The Female Devil In Prada".
Corresponding to Anna Wintur, the editor-in-chief of the American version of VOGUE, Zhang Yu, the former editor-in-chief of the Chinese edition, is very similar to her from her personal appearance to work habits.
Although during Zhang Yu's reign, he was also criticized for "inconsistent treatment of male and female stars by the cover", but in general Chinese version of Vogue is the most professional of the three major journals in terms of the choice of cover characters and the establishment of fashion topics.
Zhang Yu's resume is also extremely beautiful, graduating from the Department of Law and English Language and Literature of Peking University with a bachelor's degree, and later going to the University of South Australia for an MBA.
Whether it's content or management, she has both abilities.
Therefore, Vogue in her hand is also the most authoritative and the most strict card cover among several major magazines.
During her reign, Zhang Yu had close contacts with major brands, and she was treated in the first row at the international big name show.
Personal style, walking is the "vigorous female president" wind.
Half of the length of the Qi bangs bobo head, is her symbol, perennial a hairstyle to go the world.
It's the same as the American version of Anna Wintur.
In terms of wearing, choose a full suit suit mode, and rarely wear a skirt.
Most of them are pants, the fabrics and brands are low-key and simple, and it looks like a big woman who does practical things.
Like her, Xiao Xue, the former editor-in-chief of ELLE China, is also a very standard media major.
When Hong Huang first founded the magazine "i look world city", he invited Xiaoxue to sit as the editor-in-chief.
Hong Huang himself has always recognized her in the early days, saying that her aesthetic is very good, that is, "elegant herself".
Later, the keyword "elegance" has always been the most obvious label on Xiao Xue's body.
This is evident from the way she wears her upper body. Unlike Zhang Yu's more neat suit combination, Xiaoxue prefers a soft-looking but stylish fabric style.
Silk dresses, cashmere knits and other items are the most common in her body, and there is a sense of delicacy with soft and rigid.
And completely different from the two of them, Su Mang's life experience along the way is more "wild", and the label at the beginning is: grassroots.
First of all, Su Mang did not specialize in media or journalism, and the earliest work in the "Fashion" magazine was also distribution and sales.
But her most obvious strength, the Social ability, comes from her exuberant vitality and desire.
Her history of making a fortune is regarded as an inspirational treasure by many girls: in her early twenties, she rode a small broken bicycle alone, running through the Beijing hutongs to sign orders, doing any work, eating any hardship.
So after becoming editor-in-chief, she was one of the editors-in-chief of all the big magazines to maximize the commercial value of fashion.
During his tenure, Su Mang's greatest achievement was to single-handedly promote the "Bazaar Star Charity Night", which integrated celebrities, fashion magazines and companies.
Celebrities win word of mouth through exposure; companies can pay for publicity; magazines are profitable and influential; and they all rejoice in each other's momentum.
Deng Wendi took her daughter to Beijing to play a few years ago, and also made a special visit to Su Mang's office in Beijing, and introduced her to her daughter and said:
"She has her own Chinese version of the Met Gala."
This is her core competency: becoming a woman who saves games.
In the most brilliant period of "Bazaar Charity Night", the amount of money that can be raised every year can reach tens of millions, and in 2017, it directly completed a hundred million yuan per night.
This record slowly shrank after Su Mang left his post, so even Su Mang's "old rival" Hong Huang, when commenting on her, had to say convincingly: "She is the best female editor-in-chief in business."
In terms of personal style, she is also the most luxurious of the three editors-in-chief.
What female celebrities wear, what she wears, brand-name piles are right, and also published the most famous "autumn pants theory", which is quite demanding on self-appearance and dressing.
Summarizing Zhang Yu, Xiaoxue and Su Mang, the fame or success of the first half of life benefited from two factors: first, the dividend of the times; second: personal efforts.
In the 15 years after 2000, it is the golden period of traditional media, the prosperity period of internal entertainment stars from scratch, and the cultivation period of foreign luxury brands entering the Chinese market, and the fashion magazine, which is just stuck at this historical node, has become a communication carrier standing at the cusp of the times.
The journal needs an intermediate executive who understands the fashion and culture of the East and the West, and the time and place are favorable, coupled with personal efforts, so these 15 years have also achieved the career highlight moments of the three female editors-in-chief from youth to middle age.
But since 2015, with the development of the Internet, the rise of social media, and the decline of print media, Su Mang was the first to leave in May 2018, citing his mother's health problems.
Later, in January 2020, Xiaoxue officially bid farewell to the ELLE Chinese version on Weibo.
At the end of this year, on December 8, Zhang Yu also officially announced that she officially left vogue as the editor-in-chief of the Chinese edition, and the night before, she was also the C seat of the big group photo on the night of Vogue Film.
There is a chicken soup saying: When the times abandon you, you don't even say hello.
And how can the big women who have enjoyed the dividends of the times and have personally struggled in it and fought for fame be willing to leave the scene, not to mention, the next outlet seems to be within reach.
Therefore, another track competition has quietly formed: although in the past two years, they have retired from the big magazine one after another, but tacitly, they are still doing things.
The mentality of women to do things after the age of 45 is first of all different from when they are young, if they must be achieved when they are young, the mentality of middle-aged people is probably to go with the flow.
Homeopathy, but also benefit from two factors, the first is the accumulation of previous, or the accumulation of professional skills, or the accumulation of network resources, or the accumulation of industry status; the second is the ability of lifelong learning, middle-aged learning is more difficult than when young, it is difficult to break through the limitations of self-thinking, and rely on the old to sell the old thinking solidification.
Now, the second half of the three female editors-in-chief has also begun to diverge.
First of all, I did not lose my old bank, but actively embraced new media and opened Xiaohongshu, Douyin, Weibo and so on.
Take the performance of Xiaohongshu as an example: Zhang Yu has 110,000 fans, Xiaoxue has 100,000, and Su Mang has the least, only more than 30,000.
Zhang Yufa is basically active: today he and Yang Mi took a selfie at a cocktail party, and tomorrow they appeared in the Ordos Desert to watch the show.
The celebrity traffic is still clustered around her: Cai Xukun and Zhou Yutong will post a photo with her every time, which shows that the status is still the same.
But in fact, her main business has begun to slowly become an investment, from Party B to Party A.
She joined Sequoia Capital, the owner of Sequoia Capital is Shen Nanpeng, Zhang Yu's title is "investment partner", although not a professional investor, but Zhang Yu's influence in the fashion field, after Sequoia China in fashion and consumption and other links is very large.
Fashion, in the final analysis, is to do women's business, Zhang Yu's identity is very suitable.
Xiaoxue is still more in the field of culture and art, Po out of the photo, the activities participated in are mostly charity dinners, public welfare publicity, official fashion week activities and so on.
In the past few days, the first "Shimmer Concentration: She Power Fashion Dialogue" was also held at Shanghai Fashion Week.
The women who came to participate were all representatives of the female elite in various fields:
Li Na of the tennis world, Liu Wen, the national model, Yang Yuancao, the head of Christie's China, wenfang, the artist...
But it is clear that she still focuses on the content itself, rarely posting celebrity photos on social media, sharing mostly reading, traveling, wearing and other mental experiences.
Xiaoxue has published two books before: "Elegance" and "Elegance is a Kind of Power". Now it can be seen that the focus is to incubate their own personal IP, focusing on elegant intellectual routes.
For example, express the ten points of a woman's fifty.
For example, write: Every middle-aged woman needs an escape trip.
Or discuss: What is the innocence of an adult woman?
Her image has always been like this, and her fans are also a group of women with purchasing power.
The endorsement is also very tonal, becoming the "E series elegant ambassador" of the domestic brand Ordos, which has been upgraded very successfully in recent years.
Cashmere sweaters and cashmere wide-leg pants are worn by her, simple texture and high-class, very suitable for white-collar workers, female entrepreneurs, Kochi female groups of commuting or business wear.
Or HEFANG's brand friend, with an elegant snowflake bracelet, and her experience and temperament are natural.
Elegance is always the key word in her, from content output to commercial endorsement, which is in line with her positioning.
But Su Mang is the one with the biggest ups and downs among the three female editors-in-chief.
Open Su Mang's little red book, the content is very mixed, there are good things to share, there are also clips of interviews with stars, and today's comic exhibition tomorrow to visit the store, occasionally to introduce the luxury jewelry under popular science, there is no very clear personal style.
But perhaps her previous "social queen" label was too deeply rooted in people's hearts, and watching her recommend some good things always felt that there was a lack of grass.
Looking at Su Mang, who is actively planting grass, who can think that she is the female editor-in-chief of Harper's Bazaar before retirement, holding a lot of fashion resources and surrounded by star celebrities?
Losing the editor-in-chief of the big magazine, she was the first one to be quickly abandoned by Vanity Fair.
Before taking pictures to cut off Hong Huang, who she didn't like, and then on the Dior runway, Zhang Ziyi, who was like a sister before, also cut her cleanly from the group photo.
People who do not have a professional leaning body and rely entirely on the background of large periodicals to socialize are also the least recognizable after leaving the platform.
But Su Mang's "grassroots spirit" of not accepting defeat also made her never admit defeat.
After leaving Bazaar, she started a talk show on the one hand, and in the last year when the "sister circle" became popular, she opened a talk show called "Amazing Sister", and Cecilia Cheung, Liu Tao, and Qin Lan were all interviewed by her.
In Mango TV, there are 120 million plays, but it still belongs to the circle, and it is often said that the interview skills are not enough, the questions are too superficial, after all, the homework to be done in the in-depth interview is not to dig into people's hearts by taking a group photo.
On the other hand, she directly became a star herself, participated in various fashion-themed variety shows, and published the theory that "600 yuan of food is not enough to eat".
The conversation surrounding her will never go away, but it will always be a mixture of praise and criticism.
Finally, after the Wu Yifan incident, her remarks on laying mines in the previous scenery period were turned over again and directly banned.
Success is also social failure also social, she is a typical example of being socially regurgitated.
Now it seems that the second half of the life of the three female devils is still following their previous route.
Zhang Yu said in an interview with CGTV that she talks about new media every day, but in her opinion, the media is not "new and old".
Everyone is still doing what they are familiar with, using the direction they are good at.
Although the carrier has changed, the way is actually the new bottle of old wine.
This time, the three female editors-in-chief, who were once in the limelight, appeared together at the local fashion week, and their personal encounters have begun to be different.
In the past 20 years, they have experienced great changes in the media, from the big magazine that occupies the right to speak in fashion, to the era when everyone is the media today, they also cater to the trend, jump into the game, and use the advantages of the past to give it a go. Without platform support, the comprehensive strength of individuals and the past reputation have completely surfaced and accepted the test of the market.
Three women also correspond to the three aspects of the female workplace: do you eat the old books of the past, or do you push yourself down and start again?
No matter which direction the tide flows, where the wind blows, the platform, friends, there is no once and for all, life can rely on, or the hard power accumulated by their own hands in the first half of their lives.