[Editor's note] "Chinese cuisine is immortal, thanks to the development of Chinese food culture for thousands of years. "The gourmand Ermao has been collecting old recipes for more than 30 years, and the documents he has collected spanned the Ming and Qing dynasties to the 1980s.
The "Ermao's Old Recipe" column will explore the history and changes of food culture in different eras, regions, cuisines, events, and celebrities as clues.
Two hairs
Character business card
Ermao (formerly known as Mou Zhenzhen) was born in Youyang, Chongqing in the 1960s. Famous poet, gourmet, gastronomic consultant of "China on the Tip of the Tongue", expert of the Research Group on non-genetic inheritance and protection of Chinese cuisine (Ministry of Culture and China Cuisine Association), collector of Chinese food literature. From 1987 to the present, he has successively founded cultural catering brands "Chuandong Laojia" and "Tianxia Salt" in Chongqing, Chengdu and Beijing. He is the author of "Jiangshan in the Bowl", "Mother's Firewood Stove", "The Tao of Taste", "Republic of China Eater" and other gastronomic works.
Dictation / Ermao
Finishing / Xue Weirui
The treasure of this Eel Recipe is that it records eighty-five ways to eat eel. Although there are many ways to eat fish, it is rare to see multiple ways to eat eel. I've eaten eel since I was a child, but I know how to do it for just over ten hours.
Eel Recipe was published by China Commercial Press in 1985. The content was dictated by a teacher named Tian Shumin, and compiled by Wu Zhihua, Feng Xiangwen, and Zhou Xiaoyan. Zhou Xiaoyan is now a master of Huaiyang cuisine and a non-hereditary inheritor of Huaiyang cuisine.
Tian Shumin, a native of Huai'an, Jiangsu Province, was seventy years old when he dictated the recipe. When his father, Tian Jinchen, was 16 years old, he was an apprentice at a restaurant on the Huai'an River, which was famous for its "long fish mat". After Tian Jinchen successfully learned art, he opened a restaurant, and Tian Shumin followed his father to pass on the "long fish mat", which led to today's "Eel Recipe".
"Eel Recipe" was published by China Commercial Press in 1985
The preface to the book is written by Nie Fengqiao, a well-known chinese scholar of culinary culture who is known as the "first person to study Chinese culinary ingredients" because of his deep research on ingredients.
Chinese has a long history of eating eels. In ancient times, eels were used as snakes, named "sea snakes", "long fish" and so on. Because of its ugly shape, many people dare not eat it.
By about 497 to 502 AD, the processing method of eel in the Yangtze River Basin was no longer simply cooking. The Song Dynasty also had a record of the transportation of eels, which was recorded in Jiang Tifu's "Jianglin Magazine": "The eel seller places loach in the middle." Cloud eels like to sleep, loach is good to swim, not to sleep to death. ”
Eels like to sleep, loach like to swim, put the eel and loach together, can prevent the eel from sleeping during long-distance transportation. This shipping method was still in use until the 1980s.
Some people have never eaten eel and are not too cold to eels. In fact, the freshness of eels is not found in other fish. Nie Fengqiao described in the preface, "The freshness of eel has its unique umami taste, unlike any fish, it can be said to be 'eel fresh', clear and timeless, and can leave permanent memories in the cerebral cortex." Its texture varies depending on the cooking method, raw and fried soft and stiff, braised and plump, cooked soft and tender, fried crisp and crispy. This is difficult to do with other fish. ”
Eel is also very nutritious and has certain medicinal value. According to the "Compendium of Materia Medica", yellow eel has the effect of tonifying blood, replenishing qi, anti-inflammatory, disinfection, and removing rheumatism. Modern medicine proves that the "yellow eel fish a" and "yellow eel fish b" extracted from eel have a great effect on the body's blood sugar regulation function, which can not only increase the blood sugar of the low, but also reduce the high blood sugar.
Many southerners have the experience of catching eels. I remember when I was a child, I often went with my brother to catch eels in the rice fields on the outskirts of the city, often in May and June after the planting of seedlings, when it was a small summer, and the fish in this festival was the best.
If there is a hole in the field, the eel is often there. In general, there are two holes in the place where eels are infested, one person pokes in one of the holes, the other person guards the edge of the other hole, the fish is caught directly by hand, and the large fish needs to use bamboo clips. We also carry a cage of eels, made of bamboo, straddling our waists. At that time, supplies were scarce, and catching eels could improve the diet, so I went home and fried them with pickled ginger and pickled peppers and lard. It can also be made into eel noodles, which is a more luxurious way to eat.
Some of the eighty-five recipes recorded in this recipe are famous local dishes. For example, Jiangsu's "big roasted saddle bridge" is a famous dish of Huaiyang long fish. This dish is cooked with pork on the back of the eel, which is shaped like a saddle and gets its name. There is also the famous Nanjing dish "Stewed Raw Knock", which is one of the four famous dishes of Nanjing Jiangsu Restaurant. Because the method is to hit the eel with a wooden stick to make the meat loose, it is called raw knocking.
In addition, such as Wuxi's "crisp eel", Anhui's "eel paste", Zhejiang Huzhou's "rotten paste eel silk", Guangdong's "stewed eel roll", Hubei Jingzhou's "leather eel", Hunan's "Zilong take off the robe" and so on, all belong to the famous eel dish.
Stewed raw knock (image from the Internet)
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"Eel Recipe" preparation
"Big Burning Saddle Bridge"
Raw materials One pound of rough live eel, one point of refined salt, six dollars of rice wine, one pound of pork leg meat, two or two pieces of soy sauce, one green onion, one piece of ginger, one head of garlic, five dollars of sugar, and one pound of cooked lard (two or two).
Method of production
1. Slaughter the eel, cut the abdomen to remove the internal organs, chop it into an inch-long segment with a knife, use a point of fine salt, a little sesame oil, wipe off the sticky saliva on the eel, and wash it with water. Cut the pork shank into thick slices and set aside.
2． Heat the wok, add lard until six ripe, and fry the eel strips in the pan for a while. Leave a little residual oil in the pot, pour in the pork slices and sauté a few times, add soy sauce to burn for a while, add eel segments, add rice wine six dollars, garlic, green onion and ginger, and then add the right amount of water, after boiling on high heat, move to a low heat and simmer, cook until the soup is thick and thick, and the fish body is shiny.
Features The soup is mellow, the fish is fresh and fragrant, and the dish has two flavors.
Big Burning Saddle Bridge (Image from the Internet)
White stewed raw jiao
Raw materials 3 pounds of rough live eel, 2 or 2 garlic heads, 3 cents of rice wine, 5 cents of shrimp roe, 2 cents of refined salt, 2 pounds of chicken broth, 1 point of monosodium glutamate, 2 cents of green onion and ginger, 32 pieces of cooked lard. Five points of white pepper.
Preparation Method The eel is slaughtered, the abdomen is dissected to remove the internal organs, the blood stain is washed, and the eel's abdomen is pointed upwards. Use a knife to pat the pine from beginning to end, put it in a casserole pot filled with eels, add chicken broth, green onion and ginger, simmer for 20 minutes, add 5 shrimp seeds, 3 yuan of rice wine, and continue to simmer for about 10 minutes. After the eel is crispy, add two dollars of fine salt, one point of monosodium glutamate, use a little starch to hook the glass, sprinkle with pepper.
Characteristics The soup is white and rich, and the taste is fresh and mellow.
Source: Cover News
Oral Description: Ermao (famous poet, gourmet, gastronomic consultant of "China on the Tip of the Tongue", expert of the Research Group on Non-genetic Inheritance and Protection of Chinese Cuisine, Collector of Chinese Food Literature)
Finishing: Xue Weirui (cover reporter)
Pictured: Fang Zhi Sichuan
Some of Fangzhi Sichuan's pictures, audio and video come from the Internet, only to disseminate more information. The copyright of the pictures, audio and video contained in the article belongs to the original author or media.
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