Beijing, February 19 (Reporter Shangguan Yun) Before there was the exhibition of ancient Chinese costume culture at the National Museum of China, and then there was the "Tang Palace Night Banquet" that came out of the circle during the Spring Festival, in February this year, the Tang Dynasty costumes really surprised the world.
In particular, the latter, in a dance of only a few minutes, shows the process of Tang Dynasty girls from preparing and arranging makeup to playing at the night feast, and also shows the style of the Tang Dynasty in a smile and every move.
Stills of the classical dance "Tang Palace Night Banquet". Chen Lin Courtesy photo
So, what kind of fashion taste did women in the Tang Dynasty have?
Fashionable women love beauty
"A touch of thick red face oblique", many people after watching the "Tang Palace Night Banquet", unconsciously attracted by the exquisite makeup, there are also restoration "tutorials" popular on the Internet, such as "oblique red".
Oblique red is a special kind of face decoration. The custom of face makeup was very popular in the five sui and tang dynasties. Although ancient women did not have so many kinds of cosmetics at present, their love for makeup did not decrease in the slightest.
Simply put, facial makeup is divided into thrush, powder, grease, makeup, forehead yellow, oblique red, dotted lips and so on. Oblique red is generally between the eyebrows and sideburns, depicted in rouge. In addition, the beauty that was popular in the Tang Dynasty also had different types of wine smudge makeup and tear makeup.
At that time, women in the Tang Dynasty could have a full set of makeup tools: a back comb, a small copper mirror, small scissors, and a "clam box" containing fat powder. The comb is not just a beauty tool, it is a chic jewelry pinned to the hair.
Including hairstyles and accessories, their pursuit of fashion has long been all-round. In terms of hairstyles alone, in the early Tang Dynasty, The Women of the Tang Harem were mostly anti-buns and single-knife buns; in the Tang Dynasty, it was more popular to fall into the horse bun and high bun.
Infographic: Models show Tang Dynasty costumes. Photo by Wang Xiaojun
In order to reflect the femininity of women, they will insert ornaments such as hairpins, flowers and walking shakes in their buns, which are no less than they are now.
Trendy and cool outfit
Of course, makeup is only part of the fashionable daily routine of Tang Dynasty women. They are also very particular about their clothing. For example, the atmospheric tang skirt.
According to research, women in the Tang Dynasty generally wore shirts, skirts, pants, and shawls. For civilian women, the shirt or pants refer to the top, but the shirt is generally a single layer, and the placket is mostly double-layered, which may be mixed with some cotton wool and other things.
These fashions are not static. In the early Tang Dynasty, women roughly wore short clothes and long skirts every day, inheriting the style of the previous skirts. Narrow sleeved shirts are relatively short, long skirts are often dragged to the ground, with carefully combed high buns, the body looks slender and straight.
During the Tang Dynasty, long sleeves plus short sleeves "mix-and-match" once became fashionable attire, and then added a "shawl", which was very beautiful. The size of women's clothing is getting wider and wider, breaking the closure and forbearance of the previous traditional costumes.
During the Tang Gaozong period, there was a "large sleeve open dress", which changed the previous square collar, oblique collar and other styles, and the neckline was large and low. However, this kind of dress generally appeared in specific occasions such as the court and boudoir, and not all Tang Dynasty women wore such clothes.
Bright and bright skirts were especially favored by Women in the Tang Dynasty, especially in colors such as big red and purple, "pomegranate skirts" were quite popular, and when Chang'an women traveled in spring, they used "red skirts to interpolate and hang, thinking that they were feasting".
Data chart: Previously, on the occasion of "March 8th Women's Day", the Dunhuang Research Institute disclosed the classic murals on women's themes in the Mogao Grottoes with the theme of "Tang Dynasty Goddess Fan", revealing the "group portraits" of Women in the Tang Dynasty, reflecting that women had considerable social status in the Tang Dynasty. The picture shows cave 130 of Mogao Caves" "Female Provider of Sheng Tang - Duan Wenjie Copy". Courtesy of Dunhuang Research Institute
Salty or sweet, ready to change
These cool "Tang Dynasty fat girls", fashion style can be quickly converted, salt or sweet. In the Tang Dynasty, the social atmosphere was open, and women could participate in more social activities, and it was undoubtedly more convenient to wear men's clothing when riding or traveling.
In the Tang Dynasty tomb murals or burial figurines, there is evidence that women wear men's clothes. With the deepening of social civilization, by the time of Tang Xuanzong, it became more common for women to wear men's clothing.
On the occasion of Kaiyuan and Tianbao, there were many women wearing bearded clothes. In addition, the Old Book of Tang says that in the early years of the new century, "the people who ride horses from the driving palace are all wearing beard hats, beautiful makeup, and no obstacles." The house of the scholar, and imitated, the system of the veil hat, never works. ”
That is to say, in the early years of the new century, wearing beard hats has become very popular. Beard hat generally refers to the hun hat introduced from the western region at that time, the material has a thick brocade or black wool, etc., the top of which is slightly pointed, and some will decorate various jewelry, with many styles.
Wearing a beard and a beard hat, the dress of the Tang Dynasty women added a little dashing and heroic to the gentle beauty.
Wu Peng, a doctor of history and columnist of Chinese Min University, believes that the custom of liking men's clothing and military uniforms especially highlighted the pursuit of equality between men and women in the Tang Dynasty at that time, reflecting the historical fact that their social status was improved.
Sheng Tang is beautiful with strong rather than traditional slimness, reflecting the self-confidence and exuberant vitality of women at that time, and those fashionable costumes are the refraction of their youthful and happy spirit. Such aesthetic fashion may also have reference value at present. (End)
Source: China News Network