Spelling three fresh is a very large dish in the cuisine of northern Shaanxi, and there are four reasons for its greatness. First, it is said that when the Qianlong Emperor visited Yulin privately, he once ate this dish and praised it. Later, he was brought into the palace as a finale dish for entertaining foreign envoys. Some people also say that the Kangxi Emperor of the Qing Dynasty conquered the rebels in northern Xinjiang, and after the triumph came to Yulin, a famous chef specially offered this dish to be appreciated, and the imperial chef in the later palace included this dish in the Manchu and Han cuisine. Therefore, as long as people go to northern Shaanxi and go to Yulin, if they do not eat pinyin sanxian, it can also be said that they have lost an opportunity to taste court cuisine. Second, it condenses the essence of northern Shaanxi cuisine, with meat and vegetarian, thick and thin, and complete in color and flavor. Third, its production process is complicated, requiring many ingredients, and non-ordinary chefs dare to boast that they can do it well. Fourth, it is like the court feast "Full of Han", there are many secret details in it, even if two chefs can make a spell, the taste may be very different. So to say which one is authentic and which one is not authentic, only you have to taste it yourself.
Spelling sanxian is used in cooking techniques, roasting: roast pork, frying: croquettes, fried potatoes, fried bergamot, fried crispy meat, boiling: boiling lamb, boiling chicken, shabu: shabu-shabu powder, shabu egg skin, steaming: steaming balls, steaming crispy meat, steaming: shabu balls. Then add more than 10 kinds of by-materials, more than 10 kinds of spices, and braised them after more than 30 processes. So it's also called smorgasbord and patchwork. There are also seafood products, called Hai SanXian, which is a famous hall that has been extended in recent years, which is very tempting.
The basic raw materials of the three kinds of meat are pork, lamb and chicken, which are stewed, deboned, sliced and braised. So it's called spelling three fresh. During the stewing process, the three kinds of meat need to be cooked in the same pot, and the three flavors complement each other.
It is precisely because there are so many exquisite, processes and secrets in the main material making. Therefore, for ordinary people, one can't do it, or it runs after making it. The second is that there is no kung fu, no patience. When to add what ingredients, what meat to cook to what extent, are very exquisite. If you can't get it right, it may not be a spelling of three fresh. Third, it is not an easy task to prepare the materials needed to make the three fresh spells. For example, in the ingredients there are leeks and southern fungus. Due to the small yield and high price of these two side dishes, the southern fungus is usually difficult to buy and difficult to preserve. It is prone to moisture relapse and mildew. And it is easy to grow insects, and the holes in the leaves after soaking up are very unsightly, affecting the appetite of diners. Therefore, the average person often has a very small number of southern fungus. Now some pinsanxian replace the southern fungus with earthen fungus, which is called "stealing beams for pillars" in the words of experts. Let's talk about this leek. Its production season should be in winter. When it is just winter, the cut leek field is first filled with water, and then the porcelain is pressed layer by layer with wheat straw. Through geothermal heat, and no sunlight, can not produce chlorophyll, a natural growth of a yellowing leek, so called leek. Because during the growth process, the top of the head is pressed with wheat straw, and the authentic leeks are long and short and twisted, and the unique taste is very strong and fragrant. Now there are fewer and fewer people pressing leeks, because its cost is too high, the output is very low, it is difficult to see the real leeks on the market, and usually can only be replaced by leeks. This difference between yellow and green, not to mention the taste, is not "authentic" in this color. The fourth is that the soup of braising and three fresh is a fishy soup boiled with pork, mutton and chicken, as the saying goes, it is called three pots. What you want is that it is clear but not thick, fresh but not light, bright but not cloudy, meat but not greasy. Those foodies know it when they taste it. It is precisely because there are so many harsh conditions and requirements to do a good job of spelling three, and it is really a blessing in life to be able to eat the last "authentic" spelling three fresh.
When I was very young, I heard such a story: there was a chef surnamed Huang, who had served as a royal cook in the palace in his ancestors, and he was the third generation. The Qianlong plaque "Huang Sanxian" still hangs on the gate. This man is arrogant and arrogant, does not climb high branches, and fights righteousness and affection. If a friend has a big thing to feast on, whether rich or poor, he is not invited to come. If you want him to go with power and money, he will return to you, give him an ugly and merciless face. At that time, the Yulin warlord Jing Yuexiu invited him to cook in the mansion many times, but he did not go.
In May of that year, Jing Yuexiu gave his mother a birthday and asked Huang Shi to do the spelling of sanxian. Huang Shi thought about it again and again, decided the consequences, or went, he took out the list of ingredients to make three fresh dishes, and told Jing Yuexiu, "If one of the ingredients in the list is not worthy, don't blame me for not giving you a face." Jing Yue Xiu listened, thinking what dish can bother me? I readily agreed. "If one of the ingredients on the list is not worthy, and you smash the pot and lift the case, not only do I not blame you, but I also send someone to send you back to the house with eight large palanquins." Three days later, Huang Shi was informed that the material was ready and ready to start.
Huang Shi knew that Jing Yuexiu was not an ordinary warlord in the local area, and when he stomped his foot, Yan Laoxi in Shanxi could feel it. Therefore, to cook for him, he also obeys the order with his head in his hands, and must not be half sloppy. When we arrived at the back kitchen lobby, we examined the ingredients. In these five yellow and six months, he could get leek yellow, Huang Shi thought to himself, Jing Yuexiu still took a lot of effort to honor his mother with true feelings, and since he had this filial piety, he would seriously start to fight for three fresh. However, in the process of making lamb, a lot of cooking wine and spices can be added to the process, but there is no effect. The more Huang Shi thought about it, the more strange it became, the more he smelled, the more wrong he smelled, and he used eighteen martial arts, and the kitchen was still filled with the smell of mutton. When I sulked myself, I suspected that there might be something wrong with the lamb.
Called a procurement question, only to know the "winter lamb" on the menu, read the single person is not clear, read the "spring lamb", the difference between this word, like the opposite of the north. Lamb meat from pre-winter was supposed to be purchased in the northern meadow, but the lamb meat produced after the spring was bought locally. There is a big difference between these two types of lamb. Lambs born before winter rarely eat forage because they only eat their mother's milk. It grows to two months later and kills, one is to take the skin, the locals call the two hairy skins, the price is very expensive. Its meat is tender, less fat, no fishy, and easy to taste. While the spring lamb is eating milk, it also eats the grass on the ground, and the grass in the meat is a big taboo when the chef makes meat, and there is no good way to remove the fishy smell. So the locals say: after the sixth of June, you can eat lamb, this is the truth. When Huang Shi heard this, he was so angry that he threw the pot and the pot. I wanted to go to find Theory of Jing Yuexiu, and the Buddha sleeved away. But then I think that this Jing Yue Xiu is a warlord who kills people and peels skins to make lanterns, don't say that the plaque on your door, even those wearing yellow coats, dare to cut off their heads, isn't it a bowl-sized hole? The good guy doesn't eat the immediate loss. So he cut off the disciples, used a secret trick, and took away the smell of sheep. But what trick Huang Shi made to remove the smell of sheep fat, no one knows. This may be the housekeeping skill left by the chef.
Jing Yuexiu's mother ate this pure spelling three fresh, like a shengxian, happy. His son awarded three hundred oceans to reward Huang Shi, and since then Huang Shi's reputation for fighting for three fresh has spread in Yulin. But for some reason, later Huang Shi spared his hands like gold, and rarely did three fresh spells for people anymore. This mystery is probably known only to him and his family.
Among the three fresh accessories, there is a food called bergamot, and the preparation method is very worth mentioning. Mix eggs with a little salt and add water and noodles and roll out into a thin skin two millimeters thick. The pork is foamed, seasoned, MSG, a little shallot, and placed on the skin in strips. Roll into a column, cut into inches, press on one side, cut four knives obliquely with half a knife, put it in warm oil and slowly cook and fry, cook and fish out. This food is yellow and slightly salty on the outside, and the brown meat on the inside is fragrant. The four knives cut diagonally on the side are cracked after being boiled and fried in oil, and the four knives and five fingers are like the hands of the Buddha, so they are called the Buddha's hands. It is not only tough to eat, but also delicious and attractive. Add to the three fresh, not only add color but also add flavor, as well as the wonderful transmission of the gods, the meaning of the Buddha's hand to attract wealth. How can it not be mouth-watering?
Finally, there is the word "stew". Don't underestimate this word, there is a lot of learning in it. Put the soup in a pot and add the pepper noodles and ginger rice. Without waiting for the pot to open, cut the cooked pork, sheep and chicken into one centimeter wide slices and braised braised braised in half and bring to a boil. Add waterballs, pork balls, crispy meat, and fried bergamot pieces into the pot and simmer for five to six minutes. Add powdered skin, water fungus, water yellow flowers, and kelp silk. Before setting up, add the fried potatoes, leeks, green onions, coriander, salt, trace amount of soy sauce, spinach, monosodium glutamate and other ingredients. If the order is wrong, the taste of what should be is gone, the form of what should be is gone, and the color of what should be is gone. If you first add fried potato chips and spinach, the potato chips become a paste, and the spinach has no green, then it is not a waste of previous achievements, and the achievements are lost. If the braised meat is put late, the burned pig skin is not rotten, and one person pulls a leather like a pimp, it is not strange to bother the scenery. Where is the fight to eat three fresh? Is it clear that it is "ripping off"? In other words: one minute earlier and one minute later is very different. This may also be a strict requirement for doing spelling three fresh. This dish is bright in color, mellow and fragrant, with an aggressive aroma and moderate meat.
Since I was a child, I have loved to eat, not because of the pressure of a bad life, but because I have the economic conditions to eat. So where there is good food, as long as the wind blows into my ears, I have to find a way to eat that bite, and at the same time, I ask a few people who know each other to share it together. Over time, in today's terms, there were many friends who owed me that meal. When I grew up, I left Yulin and went to work in other places. And whenever I returned to Yulin, those friends who had been and present were moved by the wind, and as soon as I stepped out of the station, someone "kidnapped" me, called receiving the wind, and I had to be respectful rather than obedient. But this last dish, I must order three fresh, this is my favorite. There are often new discoveries, such as the addition of sea cucumbers, squid, cuttlefish shreds, magnolia slices, which are called the sea three fresh, more delicious.
It is not surprising that Yulin Pinsan "braised" has entered the elements of northern and southern cuisines. In the long history of Yulin, there have been dozens of people of various nationalities living here, integrating, and intermarrying. There are also members of the imperial court who return to their hometowns and bring with them the methods of making food from other places. Therefore, on the basis of absorbing the excellent traditional dietary elements of various ethnic groups and regions, Yulin food culture has been continuously improved and renovated, so as to optimize the variety of varieties, different taste styles, and diverse cooking techniques, and gradually form unique characteristics, fully highlighting its inclusive northern Shaanxi food culture. Spelling three fresh is the most representative meal is loved, and it is reasonable to eat often.