"Squid Games" is gone, and the retro sports style is coming. This autumn and winter, who has not yet arranged, who can not keep up with the times.
Text | He Tong
The popularity of the web drama "Squid Game" has spread all over the world, not only so that the main actors have come out of the circle, even the same model in the play has also been popular: poking lime candy, imitation makeup, seeing triangles and squares on a black background and white edges on the conditioned reflex, many netizens and fans also wear a variety of "squid masks" out of the door - it is difficult to produce a role that is easier to imitate than Linga Belle and Harry Potter.
The sports suits worn by the participants also made many people hungry. Whether it is green sportswear or red, many people even have to customize sportswear printed with "exclusive numbers".
This autumn and winter, who has not yet arranged, who can not keep up with the times.
Sportswear on trend?
Zheng Haoyan, the heroine who became popular because of the drama, also took over the endorsement of a luxury brand. In the private clothes trip, she transformed into a walking hanger wearing a full set of sportswear; the trench coat sweatpants of the same color are very eye-catching.
The celebrities of the long-term screen bully street photography list have "moved": Bella Hadid (Bella Hadid), Hailey Bieber, Kendall Jenner, Lisa, Jennie, Park Su-joon, Di Reba and Ouyang Nana's sportswear style has also dominated the recent wear headlines.
(Above) Lu Keyan, Gai Zhouyan, Zhang Shaohan (bottom) Ouyang Nana
Perhaps you also found that retro sportswear actually has the secret "age reduction" effect: wearing a school uniform, it looks much younger than formal wear with high heels. The design characteristics of "school uniform pants" are to meet most of the body shape, the legs are loose, and the walking is also windy.
Hayley Bieber, Virgil Abloh (Louis Vuitton Design Director) and Jennifer Lopez often wear vintage tracksuits
Many school uniform pants also have long vertical stripes on the sides, and according to the Oppel Kundt Illusion, the places filled with many vertical lines appear wider than those without the same width. Vertical stripes are designed at the edges of the contours of the clothes, which looks more sharp, better interpreting the "thin" strength of sportswear, and looks lighter and more dynamic.
"Visual thinness" caused by Oppel Kuent's illusion
Sportswear worn on the body, neither highlighting the figure, but also erasing the temperament, can be said to be a disaster in the fashion industry. But why is it popular?
This can probably start with last year's epidemic. Because they often stay at home, celebrities and celebrities find that it is more important to dress comfortably and show their healthy side, and the sportswear with Anna Wintur on social media has fallen through the glasses of fashion people - "fashion witch" and so "lazy and casual", let alone us?
Star demonstration + fashion weather vane indication, for a time, the campus-style sportswear, because of its youthful and energetic genes, looks spiritual, comfortable to wear, quickly boarded the "new normal" and became the current trend of wear.
What is Vintage Sportswear?
"Squid Game" not only set off a social topic, but also a dispute over the ancestors of the dress: earlier, the Korean people stood up and said that the retro school uniform worn by our teacher Wu Jing was "copied" from the style in the play.
And the truth is the large-scale true incense scene: you know, Teacher Wu Jing is wearing this plum blossom brand sportswear, but it is the most classic sports brand in China.
Clip of the movie "Teacher Good" and Wu Jing's same "Plum Blossom Brand"
It was born in the 1960s and is "the first sportswear brand in New China". In the 1970s, when the Chinese sports delegation began to compete, Premier Zhou designated "plum blossom" as the designated brand for Chinese athletes, and "national red" and "Shilin blue" became the classic colors of the century.
At the 1984 Los Angeles Olympic Games, Xu Haifeng, Lang Ping, Luan Jujie, Zhou Jihong and others wore "plum blossoms" to the podium. Today, the red plum blossom sportswear that Xu Haifeng wore at that time has been officially collected by the China Sports Museum, which witnessed the birth of the first Olympic gold medal in New China.
Not only Wu Jing passed through, the new pants band that became popular in "The Summer of the Band" also brought "Plum Blossom" to the public with a team of efforts: The New Pants Band began to wear plum blossom brand sportswear performances in 2007, bringing goods to the trend of domestic clothing, and even designed its own sportswear two years ago, which made the fans go crazy.
"Wear last year's inventory", picture from @ New Pants Band_
However, it can also be seen that retro sportswear is indeed on fire.
"Sportswear" appeared in 1939, when French brand Le CoqSportif created the "Sunday Suit" to distinguish the Eight Classics of the Child at work.
Pictured from the official website of Lekak
However, at that time, the concept of "sportswear" was not yet recognized, and in the 1960s, sportswear brands have made strange moves, jointly named with sports stars, and finally went out of the circle because of comfort and convenience, and were warmly welcomed by the general public. The "long vertical strip" on the side of the pants is a major feature of the sportswear: with the stripes, you look more "sporty".
In the 1970s, athletes trained on the streets
The reason is that sportswear needs to meet a large amount of movement to avoid thread cracking, "trim strip" has become a commonly used treatment method, and you look closely, another kind of sweatpants without "trim strips", but also with the help of "side seam open line", so that the clothing splicing part of the external force, increase wear resistance, improve comfort. It can also strengthen the wear resistance of the edges of the garment, so that the shape of the garment is not loose, and the wearing comfort is improved.
In 1974, members of the British rock band Slade put on tracksuits
This trend also often appears in film and television dramas.
Remember 2020 Guy Ritchie's "Gentlemen"? Those meticulous jogging jerseys are eye-catching. In an earlier interview with Michael Wilkinson, fashion designer for Gentlemen, these sportswear are specially tailored, based on classic British suit fabrics, printed on modern quilting technology fabrics, showing the "elegant" boxer temperament.
Stills from the movie "Gentlemen", from STX Studios
The retro sportswear in the literary film director Wes Anderson's "Genius Family" also debuted.
And the most classic is probably Quentin's "Kill Bill", Uma Thurman wearing a yellow black striped tracksuit - this is obviously a tribute to Bruce Lee's late '70s film "Game of Death" style.
Of course, the inspiration for this sportswear actually came from the look in Bruce Lee's film "Game of Death" in the late 70s.
There is a cloud in the Book of Rites: "The beginning of etiquette lies in the crown of the dress." "The school uniform is not just the costume worn on the body, but also the campus culture of walking. It embodies a person's upbringing and etiquette, and more embodies the school motto and the idea of educating people. For us, is this not a kind of reminiscence of youthfulness?
There is a routine in dressing
Since its inception, with more than 80 years of continuous evolution, sportswear has become a regular item, sports brands have emerged in an endless stream, and luxury brands have also cooperated with the trendy brands in it - you can hardly see luxury brands that have not worked with sports brands: FENDI has joined forces with FILA, Dior has crossed the border with Stüssy; Alexander Mcqueen has cooperated with PUMA. Or, they simply create a sports brand of their own, like the light luxury Tory Burch simply set up Tory Sport.
(Above) FENDI and Fila (below) Tory Sport
Take a look at what vintage sportswear the big names have come out with! GUCCI has always been a retro and gorgeous tone, but the sportswear collection is still evergreen. This year, the GG monogram pattern has been added, which looks a bit awkward and a bit sloppy, like it is always for hip-hop artists: casual when casual, it is time to roll up your sleeves and sing.
Gucci
Isabel Marant's side line, Isabel Marant Étoile, is a little more rebellious and street-oriented than the main line, the colors are more intense and unrestrained, purple and red, and the crowd looks eye-catching, like a "bad student" who is a little naughty and a little fashionable.
IsabelMarant Étoile
Fashion brands have been "sporty", and brands specializing in sportswear have begun to "seriously", such as Lacoste, which in recent years has been loved by young people because of the more "academy", and Fred Perry, who is also a sports brand, has a polo jersey base, with a zippered school uniform jacket, which has become the classic style of City Boy, that is, ivy league style.
Lacoste × BleuMode capsule series
South Korea's up-and-coming brand Nerdy is also a favorite of the current celebrity hipsters, and its top item is a retro sports suit. Nerdy is also characterized by its simple style, cut more suitable for Asian figures, and a niche brand with higher cost performance.
Pictured from Nerdy's official website
Speaking of which, let's focus on the "plum blossom card". Although the official website is still a "retro" atmosphere, Plum Blossom has "revitalized" various joint names with Semir, Peacebird, etc., as well as the cooperation of Yangliu Youth Painting, Lao Meihua and Dafa Van, which are closely related to Tianjin's regional culture.
Meihua brand sportswear, picture from the official website, Tmall flagship store
In terms of color choice, clean and simple design is the best policy, green, blue, yellow and gray, red is more in line with the current aesthetic, remember to say goodbye to black and white.
And in addition to a whole set of smooth colors, the outside building has also become the research institute of the fashionable elves. And in the warm autumn sun, pairing with sunglasses is also easy to shape.
On the outside of the "school uniform", it is good to wear a coat with a large pocket, a jeans suit, or a cotton coat that is on fire right now. Coupled with the cold wind blowing in autumn and winter, pairing with a beanie hat or baseball cap is both a finishing touch and a constant temperature.
Dress and wear a hat to keep warm
The most popular is naturally the small white shoes of the contestants in the play - according to the statistics of the British fashion search platform Lyst, after the network drama was broadcast, vans' sales of a small white shoe soared 78 times! In addition, canvas shoes and New Balance jogging shoes are also the choice of "retro" dress.
Vans white shoes
A higher-end "retro sports style", girls can try to wear half-cut skirts, pencil skirts, tennis skirts can also be. As for high heels and sportswear, please leave it to the model to control.
At present, it is no longer popular to wear deliberately, a set of sportswear with a sense of casual atmosphere, plus a finishing touch, is a warm artifact in autumn and winter. Of course, proper exercise will make you feel better.