The Song Dynasty can be said to be the pinnacle of Chinese tea culture
In the "Qingming River Map", in addition to the bustling city, the bustling flow of people, the boats and boats that shuttle back and forth, the endless flow of cars and horses, there is also an important scenery that cannot be ignored, that is, the continuous tea house.
Tea to the Song Dynasty, Fang Chengguo drinking
Tea drinking in the Tang Dynasty was also popular, but tea drinking in the Tang Dynasty was mainly popular among literati, hermits, and monks. In the Song Dynasty, from the emperor down to the people, the whole country was revered, and tea culture rose to the supreme realm of omnipresence, and also penetrated into the lives of ordinary people.
The founding emperor of the Song Dynasty, Zhao Kuangyin, had a tea drinking habit, and since then, successive emperors have loved tea, especially Huizong, the "emperor of literature and art", who is not only proficient in tea affairs and good at tea art, but also wrote a tea science focus called "Daguan Tea Theory".
data analysis
In the Song Dynasty, more than 200 varieties of tea were produced nationwide, of which the royal tribute tea was the most representative
During the "Two Song Dynasties" period, more than 180 poets and lyricists praised the Song Dynasty tribute tea with articles, and as many as 400 poems were written, including Ouyang Xiu, Su Shi, Huang Tingjian, Lu You and other literary giants
In particular, Lu You wrote more than 300 tea poems in his lifetime, becoming the most written tea among the poets of all generations; the writing of tea books in the Song Dynasty also greatly exceeded that of the Tang Dynasty, counting more than 30 kinds, many of which have become classics that have been handed down to this day.
Such as Song Huizong's "Great View of Tea" Song Xiang's "Tea Record" and so on
The national tea drinking style
The tea drinking style of the Song Dynasty penetrated into every corner of daily life. The capital is full of tea houses, tea shops, tea houses, etc., and Meng Yuanlao's "Tokyo Dream Record" and Zhang Zeduan's "Map of the Qingming River" both describe the prosperity of tea houses on both sides of the Bi River in Tokyo.
The "Mengliang Record" records: "The Fenjing delicatessen, Zhang Hangming paintings, so seduce the viewer, lingering diners." Today's Hangcheng Tea Shop is also like this, inserting four flowers, hanging celebrity paintings, and decorating the façade. It can be seen that the Song Dynasty tea house also attached great importance to store furnishings.
Order tea
The Song Dynasty also had the famous "Four Arts of Literati Life", which were tea ordering, burning incense, hanging paintings, and arranging flowers.
The so-called tea order, that is, the popular method of brewing tea in the Song Dynasty. Different from the Sencha method of the Tang Dynasty, the tea point method is to put the tea leaves in the tea bowl, inject a small amount of boiling water into a paste, and then inject boiling water, or directly inject boiling water into the tea bowl, and at the same time stir with the tea spoon to make the tea powder float up to form a porridge noodle. The "tea raft" is an indispensable tool for ordering tea.
Fighting tea
The term "DouCha" first appeared in the Tang Dynasty. Bai Juyi has a poem: "Purple shoots qi taste tea Douxin", which refers to Douxin tea. The tasting of the Song Dynasty "Dou Cha" is as Mei Yaochen said in the poem: "Dou Se Dou Fu".
Cai Xiang said in the "Tea Record": "The cup on the soup can be stopped in four minutes, and it is excellent to regard its face as bright white and without water marks." Jian'an Dou test, the first to the water mark is the negative, the durability is the victory, so compared to the victory and defeat, it is said that one water and two waters are separated. "The foam on the surface of the tea soup emitted by the boiling point of the soup can be attached to the bowl wall for a long time. As Mei Yaochen's poem: "Cooking the new bucket is hard to bite the cup", Su Shi's poem: "Who competes for the first line of water feet", such as the separation of soup flowers from soup, or the "water foot scattering" without biting the cup, it is a loser.
As for the tea color fight, as Huizong said in his "Great View of Tea Theory": "Pure white is the supreme truth, green and white are secondary, gray and white are secondary, and yellow and white are secondary." White tea is naturally generated, Mei Yaochen verse: "White milk leaf family spring, baht two worth of ten thousand." Su Shi's poem: "Since the clouds and leaves are white, they are quite better than Zhongshan." The Song Dynasty Zhu Mu said in the "Fang Yu Sheng" that Dou Cha: "The tea color is white, and its traces are easy to detect when it enters the black cup." So Jianzhan Daxing.
Fighting tea is also called tea battle, that is, the advantages and disadvantages of competition tea, pay attention to tea excellence, water quality, instrument beauty, tea to the new upstart, water with living water, the instrument should be sophisticated. Select the group of tea mills into the cup, pour boiling water to stir, the tea soup pure white is the upper, green and white second, gray and white is second; the cup without water marks is excellent, and the water traces are negative
Divide the tea
Tea is also known as tea hundred plays, water danqing, soup plays or tea plays
Lu You has a poem: "Clear window thin milk play tea" sentence. This fantastical technique arose in the five generations and was called "Soup Opera" or "Tea Hundred Plays", which was called "Tea Splitting" during the Northern Song Dynasty and ran through the two Song Dynasties. The Tang Dynasty also had the term "divided tea", which means a uniform cup, which is a different meaning from the Song Dynasty "divided tea".
Tao Gu of the Northern Song Dynasty recorded the fuquan monk's superb tea-splitting skills in the True Qing Yilu: "I can inject soup magic tea into one sentence, and point four Ou, a total of one absolute sentence, and the soup table." ...... In recent times, there are spoons for soups, do not use magic tricks, so that the soup pattern water veins form objects, animals, insects, fish, flowers and grasses, delicate and picturesque. "Tea spoons were used for tea distribution, and after Emperor Huizong of Song, he mainly used tea spoons (phonetic manifestations).
Yang Wanli's poem "Sitting on the Top of the Temple" has: "It is like traveling in space, and the shadow falling on the cold river can be ever-changing." "It can be seen from this that tea sharing is a special tea art.
Li Qingzhao is a tea master, and his "Man Ting Fang" has the sentence "raw aromatherapy sleeves, living water tea".
Emperor Huizong of Song was even more skilled, writing the "Treatise on Daguan Tea" and personally evolving the technique of tea distribution. History: In the second year of Xuanhe (1120), "Zhao Zaizhi, the prince, and other qu feasts were held at Yanfu Palace,,...... Shang Ming took the tea set near the waiter, personally poured soup to boil, and the white milk floating cup noodles, such as the light moon of the sparse star, Gu Zhuchen said: This self-cloth tea."
Tao Gu, a man in the early years of the Northern Song Dynasty, said in the "Records of Tea": "Tea to the beginning of the Tang Dynasty, in recent times, there are soup luck daggers, do not use magic tricks, so that the soup pattern water veins become objects." The genus of animals, insects, fishes, flowers and grasses is delicate and picturesque, but it is scattered immediately. This tea change is also called tea a hundred plays. Lu You also has a poetry cloud: "Low paper obliquely idle grass, clear window fine milk play tea." ”
Tea feast
Ordering tea and dividing tea are all popular "tea ceremonies" in the Song Dynasty. The tea ceremony is prosperous, and the tea feast is grand. Tea banquet, also known as tea party, is a banquet with tea instead of wine, and the banquet entertains guests. The most representative tea banquet of the Song Dynasty, the "Jingshan Tea Banquet" of Jingshan Temple in Yuhang, Zhejiang, has now been included in the third batch of national intangible cultural heritage list.
Song Dynasty Tribute Tea
According to the "History of Song", tea is divided into two categories, slice tea and loose tea. Slice tea is also a cake tea, that is, tuan tea. Loose tea is also known as herbal tea. The Song people drank tea mainly from the end of the tea, whether it was tuan tea or herbal tea before drinking it was ground into the end. Herbal tea is ground with tea mills, and tea cakes are ground with tea mills. In the Song Dynasty, the production of Tuancha in the previous period was seven procedures such as picking tea, picking tea, steaming tea, squeezing tea, researching tea, making tea, and passing yellow.
Before drinking tea, there are procedures such as crushed tea, milled tea, luo tea, tea powder in the box, plucking the end in the cup, filling the field into the cup, stirring the tea powder, and placing the tea tray. In the Song Dynasty, in the second year of Emperor Taizong's Taiping Revival (977), the imperial court began to send transfer envoys (tribute tea envoys) to Beiyuan in Fujian to supervise the production of tribute tea, and at the same time specially issued dragon and phoenix pattern models to make dragon and phoenix tuan tea. Since then, the glorious history of Beiyuan and the two Song Tribute Teas has begun.
Beiyuan Gong tea was produced in Jianxi, Jianzhou (present-day Jian'ou City, Nanping, Fujian). Emperor Huizong's "Treatise on The Great View of Tea" said: The prosperity of this dynasty, the construction of the creek in the years, the dragon tuan wind cake, the famous crown of the world, and the products of the source have also flourished since then.
The Northern Song Dynasty Xiong Fan's "Xuanhe Beiyuan Tribute Tea Record" records: "The season of the five dynasties was built in the Southern Tang Dynasty. In the third year of the Southern Tang Dynasty (945), he captured (Min) Wang Yanzheng and gained his land. The people of the counties have collected the North Garden, first made the cream, and then made wax noodles. ”
The source of the valley is the core production area of beiyuan tribute tea, and the Song Dynasty Song Zi'an's "Dongxi Tea Trial Record" said: "The good ones also take the leaves in the south of the source of the valley, and all the clouds are precious." ”
Hu Zai's "Yu Yin Cong Dialect of Cangxi" says: "Jian'an Beiyuan began with the creation of the envoys of Emperor Taizong in the third year of Taiping Xingguo (978), and was taken as an image of a dragon and phoenix to pay tribute. To the middle of the road, stone milk and wax surfaces are still added. Later, the big and small dragons, and then from Ding Zhi became Cai Junmo.
Between Xuan and Zheng, Zheng Kejian entered from tribute tea, led Cao for a long time, and continued to enter, and its number gradually became wider, and now it is still because of it. Ouyang Xiu's "Guitian Record" records: "The product of tea is more valuable than the dragon and phoenix, called 'tuan tea', and all eight cakes weigh one pound."
In the celebration calendar, Cai Junmo began to make a small piece of dragon tea to advance, and its quality was exquisite, called 'small group', where twenty cakes weighed one pound, and its value was two or two gold. But gold can be obtained and tea is not available.
During the Taiping (Taizong) years of the Northern Song Dynasty, the "Great Dragon Regiment" was created during the Qingli (Renzong) years, the "Miyun Dragon" was created during the Yuanfeng (Shenzong) years, the "Ruiyun Xianglong" was created during the Shaosheng (Zhezong) years, and the "Dragon Garden (Tuan) Shengxue" was created during the Daguan (Huizong) years, pushing the tribute tea to the extreme. The picking and processing of tribute tea is extremely complicated and time-consuming, and the cost is very large, and the artistic height and financial wealth of the non-Song Dynasty are beyond repercussions.
For each fast in the southern suburbs, the Zhongshu and the Privy Council each gave a loaf of bread, divided into four people, and the palace people often spent gold on it, covering its preciousness. Wang Peizhi's "Talk on the Water Swallow of Shui (Yin Exemption)" said: "Eight people are divided into reserves, thinking that they are strange to play, do not dare to try themselves, and there are good guests who come out to play." Song Wang Gong's "Miscellaneous Records of Handus" Yun: When Su Shi was in Hangzhou, "one day to ,...... Naimi Zi Zhan Yue: "A certain master who left the capital and resigned from the official family ,...... Lead so-and-so to a cabinet, out of this corner, the secret saying: Give Su Shi, do not let people know'. The gift of expulsion is a pound of tea, and the title is a royal pen. ”
The Dragon Regiment is so precious.
Big Tree Tea: The material of tribute tea is also very peculiar. Shen Kuo's "Mengxi Pen Talk" said: "Jiancha is all trees, and Wu, Shu, and Huainan are only congs. Mei Yaochen said: "Jianxi tea has become a big tree, and it is quite special for the tea planted by Chu Yue." According to relevant historical records, Beiyuan tribute tea is made from the "Zhangyu" tree.
Song Zi'an's "Preface to the Trial of Tea in Dongxi" said: "Ding Zhi is also on the theory, between the stone milk out of the cliffs of the gully ridge and the lack of stones, the immortal bones of the cover grass and trees are also." Near Cai Gong Yiyun, but the Beiyuan Phoenix Mountain is connected to the roasting, and the producers have a good taste, so the four parties are named after the tea, all of which are Yun Beiyuan Yun. ”
White Tea: Huizong's "Treatise on Daguan Tea" says: "White tea is a kind of tea of its own, which is different from regular tea, its strips are explained, and its leaves are thin. Between the cliffs and forests, accidentally born, cover non-human can cause. Song Zi'an's "Dongxi Tea Trial Record" also said: "White tea folk is heavy, out of recent years, buds and leaves are like paper, and people think that tea rui." "The white tea leaves are lustrous in color and auspicious, and the output is very small, which is exclusive to the court."
Longyuan Shengxue: Xiong Fan's "Xuanhe Beiyuan Tribute Tea Record" records: "Xuanhe Gengzi (Xuanhe 2nd year, 1120), Caochen Zheng Gongkejian, was founded as a silver line water bud. The cover will pick the ripe buds and then remove them, take only a wisp of their hearts, and store them in a rare vessel to clean the spring, bright and pure, like a silver thread. Its square inch new hammer, there are small dragons snaking on it, the dragon garden wins the snow. ...... The magic of tea is so wonderful that it is extremely snowy. According to the "Jian'an Zhi" Yun: "Take a tender strip from the tea cover in the white hehe, such as those with large silk hair, and use the yuquan water to study it, and try its color as milk, and its taste is plump and beautiful."
Xiong Fan's "Xuanhe Beiyuan Tribute Tea Record" lists more than 50 kinds of Beiyuan tribute tea after white tea and Shengxue, which shows the essence of Northern Song Tribute Tea. Zhao Ruli's "Beiyuan Beilu" also recorded that there were 46 Imperial Tea Gardens in Beiyuan, covering a vast area of more than 30 miles, which showed the victory of the time.
Tea has a special writing, starting from Tang Luyu's "Tea Classic". There are 12 known tea books of the Tang Dynasty. In the Song Dynasty, there are about 30 kinds of tea books that have been passed down to the present and can be examined.
Cai Xiang (1012-1067) Tiansheng Viii (1030) Jinshi, a native of Fujian, served as a transport envoy in Fujian and made tea to pay tribute, so he became familiar with tea. In the third year of emperor Yu (1051), he wrote the "Tea Record". The "Tea Record" is divided into two parts, the first part is about tea, dividing color, incense, taste, Tibetan tea, burning tea, milled tea, Luo tea, waiting soup, boiling cup, and ordering tea. The next article on tea utensils is divided into nine pieces: tea roasting, tea cage, anvil vertebrae, tea plutonium, tea mill, tea luo, tea cup, tea spoon, and soup bottle. This is the earliest and most complete monograph on tea in the Song Dynasty, which has a profound impact on the development of tea culture in the Song Dynasty and later generations.