< h1 toutiao-origin="h1" > preface</h1>
Go to Africa to "see the Great Migration of Animals".
Hearing this exaggerated idea, the aerial footage of "Animal World" overlooking a large group of wildebeest, zebra and antelope migrating en masse on a plane will immediately come to mind, and the melody of Taylor Swift's "Wildest Dream" will ring over and over again.
As an animal fan who was born to love animals, raised animals since childhood, and grew up listening to the explanation of teacher Zhao Zhongxiang, I finally had the opportunity to meet my friends to go to the vast East African grasslands during the 2019 National Day holiday to fulfill this wild dream.
In 2020, the epidemic is raging around the world, the country is closed, and the travelogue that was originally planned to be written quickly has been delayed until now for various reasons, but with the large-scale vaccination of this year's vaccine, I think that I may soon be able to set off again to see the world.
Hopefully, this belated travelogue will bring back the throbbing that has been silent in your heart for a long time.
<h1 toutiao-origin="h1" > prepare before the trip</h1>
1.1
< h2 toutiao-origin="h2" > itinerary determined</h2>
At the beginning of the year, I contacted a domestic travel agency, just 6 people grouped a small group that can directly fill the off-road vehicle, so it planned a private customized itinerary, and the travel agency customized the daily tour route and hotel, a total of 9 days and 8 nights (excluding round-trip travel time), in addition to transportation, tips and personal shopping expenses, there is basically no other consumption, per capita 18K, food and accommodation are included. (In order to avoid advertising suspicions, the name of the travel agency is not stated here, if you are interested, you can leave a message or private message)
9 days 8 nights of the route is basically located in Tanzania and Kenya between the Serengeti National Park, Ngorongoro Crater and other nature reserves, due to the East African savannah land is vast, in addition to the beginning and end of safari for the first and last two days, we are basically on the grassland vacation and wild luxury hotel accommodation, hotel level and facilities according to your budget, this part is also the bulk of the entire travel budget.
Personal advice If you don't have a lot of time for a vacation, don't think too much about the hotel's hedonistic facilities (because every day Safari is exciting enough to watch the animals, back to the hotel is almost dark), choose the 4-star hotel recommended by the travel agency can have a very good stay and rest experience.
1.2
< h2 toutiao-origin="h2" > airfare visa</h2>
< h2 toutiao-origin="h3" > tickets</h2>
Outbound:
2019.9.29 00:25 Hong Kong Airport T1 – 9.29 5:40 Addis Ababa Airport, Ethiopia T2
9.29 10:15 Addis Ababa Airport T2 – 9.29 12:50 Tanzania Kilimanjaro Airport
backhaul:
2019.10.6 18:10 Kilimanjaro Airport – 10.6 20:40 Addis Ababa Airport T2
10.6 22:40 Addis Ababa Airport – 10.7 16:25 Hong Kong Airport T1 (1 hour stop in Bangkok)
The above tickets are purchased on the booking platform half a year in advance, 6.3K per capita (round-trip, excluding domestic transfer fees)
<h2 toutiao-origin="h3" > visa:</h2>
Tanzania supports Chinese passport visa on arrival, but in order to avoid long queues, we found an institution in China to do a visa, about 500 yuan / person, generally about 3 weeks in advance, no need to mail the passport, tell the other party to go to the time and provide a scanned copy of the passport, 2 inches 3.5x4.5 white background electronic version of the personal crown-free photo + personal information form (provided by the institution, fill it out yourself), about 3-5 working days out of the visa, the electronic signature is sent directly to the mailbox, printed out and the itinerary together with the itinerary.
<h2 toutiao-origin="h3" > small yellow book (International Certificate of Vaccination or Preventive Measures, not required).</h2>
Tanzania is already a non-epidemic area recognized by the WHO and does not require a yellow fever vaccine. However, at present, there are two situations that require vaccination, one is the destination such as Kenya, if you go to an epidemic area, you need to be vaccinated, and the other is to go from an epidemic area to a non-epidemic area, you also need to be vaccinated. China and Tanzania are non-epidemic areas do not need to check the small yellow book, Tanzania also has a government announcement to only check the entry of African and Central and South American countries, but some customs in African countries are known for irregular operations, in order to save trouble generally have to fight in advance. If your local "International Travel Health Care Center" happens to have this vaccine, it doesn't hurt to find a time to get it 10 days before you travel, get the yellow fever vaccine for free (for a fee), and bring your itinerary and 2-inch photo.
1.3
< h2 toutiao-origin="h2" > personal belongings</h2>
<h2 toutiao-origin="h3" > currency:</h2>
Travel agents recommend starting at 200 USD per person, mainly for consumption and hotel a la carte beverages.
Most hotels support VISA and MasterCard foreign currency settlement, but the African network situation is worrying, and sometimes it is impossible to swipe the card, just in case you can exchange some more dollars. If you need to ride the Serenge geothermal air balloon (voluntary), be prepared for 599 USD, cash or swipe (also require a VISA or MasterCard card).
< h2 toutiao-origin="h3" > clothing:</h2>
September to October Tanzania belongs to the dry season, the temperature difference between morning and evening is large, the average is between 13-26 degrees Celsius, the noon is relatively hot, the sun is poisonous, I a northwesterner see this sun is mistaken for thinking that I have reached Haixi, Qinghai.
It is recommended to prepare a thin jacket on the upper body, such as sunscreen clothing + vest or short sleeves, pants can be prepared for single-layer pants (khaki, dark green, camouflage, black and other colors are more in line with the style of African Safari), if there is outdoor pants to breathe and sweat and waterproof, you can wear shorts, but if it is a mosquito physique or to prepare long pants or stockings, shoes are recommended to short boots, thick bottom, more than the ankle is best, if you need to get off the car to walk into the grass, the dust will be relatively large.
< h2 toutiao-origin="h3" > camera:</h2>
Sony Alpha 7R IV (mark 4) full-frame micro single camera, as well as Sony FE400-600 G telephoto lens for capturing animals on the prairie, high pixels of up to 6100W and the lens's telephoto segment ensure that you can capture animals and take secondary screenshots, and the sensitive animal eye focus and continuous shooting performance also significantly improve the success rate of shooting (there is a photo in the back!). ）；
Sony RX100 VII black card camera, zoom focal length 28-200mm, as a backup, this time Alex on the hot air balloon large film is shot with it, the operation is simple and lightweight;
Other captures and selfie moments are basically mobile phones (Sony Xperia 5, iPhone 11);
In addition, an iPad Pro 11, portable SSD (Type-C interface) was also brought as real-time retouching sharing and backup storage during the trip, which proved very practical.
<h2 toutiao-origin="h3" > in addition to the above basic equipment, there are some tips:</h2>
Safari hunting route is basically in the savanna plain, no shade, sunny day under the car is direct exposure, coupled with ultraviolet rays are very strong, must pay attention to sun protection, otherwise at night is the monkey butt; because there is no hardened road in the national park and nature reserve, all are gravel roads, in the safari process will basically open the roof of the off-road vehicle, so the carriage will drift into a lot of dust, hats, sunscreen is a must, scarf small square towel can also protect the neck from sunburn, if allergic to dust, In addition to wearing a mask, you need to take anti-allergy drugs.
There are many mosquitoes on the grassland, and in some places there will be very aggressive cattle flies (locally known as seisei) mouthparts can even penetrate clothes to bite people, insect repellent supplies and anti-itch disinfection supplies after being bitten by insects are essential.
Although Tanzania is an underdeveloped country, but with its unique and rich wildlife resources, attracting people from many countries around the world to Safari, especially North America and Europe tourists, so the local tourism industry has been very fully developed, the hotel here not only has the level of software and hardware services in place, the variety and quality of meals are far beyond expectations, its development and protection of natural ecological resources is quite perfect and fine, the level of service is also quite high... Local Serena, four seasons and other luxury hotel facilities are quite complete, not only provide delicious and delicious meals, many are also located in the mountain top with excellent scenery, canyon mouth, etc., and even the infinity pool is the place where wild elephants drink water, pertinently speaking, from the high-end travel point of view, service concept, service attitude and service quality and other aspects of the domestic a lot, after the end of the day to stay in the hotel, everyone chat to see the scenery after eating, concave shape to take photos, are very comfortable.
Because basically every 1-2 days to change a hotel, the trunk space of the off-road vehicle to hold the luggage of 7 people, space is limited, so personal belongings do not need to bring too much, each person as far as possible in a large size suitcase + a backpack can be.
African mobile network is very poor, in addition to China Mobile, the remaining two domestic operators network tariffs are quite high, it is not recommended that you buy a local data card, because during the day are in the protected area hunting photos, basically are network no service or 2G network status, answering the phone are difficult, in the scenic area of the Internet does not make much sense, this is a good opportunity to quit the network, back to the hotel will basically have the speed of OK Wi-Fi, that is, relax, share and send a circle of friends time.
When the bags are ready, the mind is at peace, and the journey begins.
<h1 toutiao-origin="h1">9.28 - 9.29 Day 1-2 </h1>
Because the ticket from HK was booked at the beginning of the year, we did not anticipate what would happen later, but for the sake of safety, 3 of the six of us flew directly from Beijing to HK, and the remaining 3 people, including me, crossed the customs from Shenzhen, Alex bought us a ferry ticket from Shekou Wharf directly to HK Airport, and arrived at HK Airport at 21:00 pm on the evening of 28. The airport teller service was slow and even disrupted the fact that we had to choose the seats next to each other on the Ethiopian Airlines app in advance, which was a bit unpleasant. Unlike the crowded scene of the previous arrival at HK Airport, the HK Airport that night was indeed a lot less crowded, but after passing through customs and entering the boarding gate, there were still many mainlanders. The cautious tension along the way subsided as the boarding broadcast began... After takeoff put on the noise-canceling headphones, the girls began to wash up and wear the blindfold to start sleeping, I also gradually fell asleep with the music in my ears, after waking up it was the time for the flight attendant to send a meal, the international long-distance flights can eat more meals, bread butter chicken beef wine have, recommended or try to eat, because Addis Ababa Airport really has nothing to eat.
After a 10-hour flight, at 5:40 a.m., we unlocked this new continent of life on time: Africa! Landing in Ethiopia - Addis Ababa (Bole) airport, no covered bridge, shuttle car into the terminal, Addis Ababa airport security check is more fun, you need to take off your coat, shoes, take off all jewelry and watches, through the security machine as long as the machine does not ring can be directly through, your mobile phone mobile power and other electronic products do not need to be taken out, directly in the bag can be passed, the probability is relatively loose.
The first group photo in Africa, there is a foreign friend to join in the fun haha
Addis Ababa (Bole) airport terminal is not large, very long, a total of two floors, from the internal decoration details is China's construction, and the water dispenser is beautiful, the trash can also writes the Chinese: "care for health, everyone has a responsibility", from the terminal to look out there is also the "China Communications Construction" site (checked out is indeed China Communications Construction to build its expansion project), the airport duty-free shop in addition to some cigarettes, coffee beans is really nothing to buy, the electronic products placed in the counter are probably popular around 2000, For example, DV, card camera, etc. that need to be inserted into the cassette, completely dispel the idea of shopping... There was only one buffet to eat, 20 knives / person, tried it, in addition to fruit, omelette is really lackluster, ate a buffet sandwich.
Fortunately, the waiting time was not long, and at the airport we met with our friend Monica, who flew from Shanghai to travel agency, and took the next flight to Kilimanjaro to reach the end of the first day , Arusha Arusha.
Kilimanjaro Airport is not large, before landing you can see Kilimanjaro (but our seat is not on the side that can be seen), get off the plane without a shuttle bus, directly from the plane itself into the arrival hall to start queuing, at this time to show the small yellow book, the ground staff will not stop using various languages to prompt the passengers who have passed the inspection to prepare the corresponding documents, enter the airport parking lot after successful entry, the lush canopy can see the huge birds, so officially feel: we have come to Africa.
The tour operator arranged for the pick-up tour guide was a black big brother named Phelim, who drove us on a safari for the next 10 days or so.
After landing on this day, we went directly to the first day of our landing: Arusha Serena Hotel, a manor-like resort hotel, located in the city but completely separated from the city, supposedly for safety, we were divided into a single-family wooden house room in groups of two.
Fortunately, the hotel is very large, in addition to the garden and a verdant tree-lined meadow, you can also sign up to go boating in the lake next to it (did not go), which is placed on several swings, taking advantage of the advent of the golden hour in the afternoon, everyone who has taken a break to play and take photos in this meadow, the fatigue of boating and driving will disappear instantly.
The hotel offers a standard Western menu, as well as a choice of desserts and fruit, a staple drink.
After eating, we will continue to walk around the hotel together.
The sky was a silent deep blue that night, surrounded by insects chirping, and the warm lights in the courtyard made people feel very calm.
In order not to affect the next day's itinerary, everyone went back to their rooms as early as possible to pack up and rest, and the next day was the first stop of the journey - known as hemingway's most lovely place in Africa: Manyara Manyala
<h1 toutiao-origin="h1">9.30 - Day 3</h1>
Manyara Lake Manyara is located at the base of the Great Rift Valley and stretches for 50 kilometres. This alkaline lake dries up almost entirely during the dry season, but reaches 200 square kilometers during the rainy season, allowing intensive wildlife viewing.
After breakfast at 7 a.m., everyone packed their suitcases and loaded the car again, Phelim brought us the lunch box and water prepared by the hotel, and set off for Lake Manilla for the first day of safari, but I would like to call this day's itinerary the early taste of our trip to Africa, as you will know later.
The weather was nice on the way, and I even saw a small tornado in shape.
Once inside the Lake Manilla, a few steps will reveal baboons on the side of the road, playing alongside our car, which should be the first animal we saw on our trip to Africa, and the cute Phelim even used the Chinese "baboon" to remind us that baboons should be the easiest wild animals to see during the trip (and this is also true).
(Baboon Mother and Son, Sony A7R IV + FE 400-600G)
Fortunately for us, we continued to drive inside, and we encountered a lone elephant, which did not look like it was single, and did not hurry to roll our noses while circling around our car across the road.
(Lone African bull elephant, Sony Xperia 5)
Phelim reminded us not to make too sudden noises so as not to disturb the elephant, so everyone excitedly opened the skylight to take photos with this friend from various angles.
The car continues to go deeper into the lake area, the view gradually opens up, the unhardened dirt road combines with the dense vegetation on the roadside, and some small antelopes and birds flash in the forest from time to time, and the lake area slowly appears in front of our eyes.
(African Warthog, Sony A7R IV FE400-600G)
(Red-faced hornbill, Sony A7R IV FE400-600G)
Finally there's a little bit of Safari feeling!
Zebras, wildebeests and giraffes roam the lake in droves, and this seems to be their most leisurely paradise.
We drove all the way to the lake, Manyara Lake Manyara is also one of the best places to see birds in East Africa, there are more than 400 species of birds recorded here, there is a hanging bridge to see the large-scale pelicans and other birds resting around this beach area on both sides (feel like storks, wild ducks, etc.), the rainy season has passed, the water level has dropped, flamingos have flown away from the lake, and Phelim said that during the rainy season (about July), you can have the opportunity to see pink flamingos.
Lunch Phelim is arranged to eat at the designated camp by the lake, there are awnings and tables and chairs placed here, there are also toilets not far away, and the road signs clearly state that we should not leave garbage in the park, so we also eat lunch boxes, eat lunch boxes and pack them back to the car to take away, and leave a piece of paper plastic bottle.
Just as the lunch box was being eaten, the birds in the lake suddenly took off and hovered in the air, and the scene was once very spectacular.
On the way back from a short break, we were lucky enough to see the lion we met for the first time on the trip, and the female lion snoozed on the trunk of the tree.
The little lion hid in the shade.
（水羚，A7R IV FE 400-600G）
（瞪羚，A7R IV FE400-600G）
After leaving Lake Manyara we made our way up the hill to where we were going to stay tonight, a hotel overlooking the entire Great Rift Valley of East Africa – manyara Wildlife Safari Camp.
This hotel really doesn't have any character at first glance, and the room we stayed in was also on two floors connected by a promenade, but when you step into the garden of the hotel.
You will be pleasantly surprised to find that its essence is all in this large open landscape.
Leaning on the bar and looking down, Manyara Lake Manyara at the bottom of the Great Rift Valley is now in full view, and the whole canyon is being painted with a warm golden color as the sun sets.
After nightfall, everyone ate the compact buffet, listened to the songs and chats on the hillside with the stereo, and looked up, it was already the sky, and the Milky Way was above our heads, so clear and bright.
Above, end of the previous part.
(Middle) and (Bottom) construction, please stay tuned~